Add On heel / toe shifter

Ken Tarver · Tue 29, Dec 2015, 22:20:35

Hey guys,
Has anyone attempted to use this heel/toe shifter on our 1500 Valks....this is for a 1800 GW.
It is very much like the Rattlebars kick shift, except for the mount bracket, which I would think is removable.

www.addonaccessories.net/footrests/gl1800-heel-toe-shifter.html

I'm thinking I may get my local dealer to order it, and give it a try. I know probably have to get some additional parts, like longer bolt, possibly a spacer, & washer. If it won't work, I believe they'll send it back to the distributor.

Ken

Hook#3287 · Wed 30, Dec 2015, 06:30:48

Ken,

Comparing it visually to one I have hanging around and I dont know the brand, I'd say it's worth a try, especially for $70.00. If it works, that's a good deal.

The main concern is the distance between the mounting hole and the slot for the shifter. Also the part that hangs under the mounting hole may interfere with the OEM pegs.

Bill

Fazer · Wed 30, Dec 2015, 07:24:41

Ken--please make sure and post your results. This is something I am interested in as well.

Ken Tarver · Wed 30, Dec 2015, 12:22:55

Hook,
The part hanging under the mount hole is the mounting bracket for for the 1800 Gold Wing.....I think that is going to be removable, but will have to have it in my hands to verify.

By the way, it is $55 at Chrome World. Think $70 is the msrp.

Ken

dr.danh · Wed 30, Dec 2015, 12:37:14

Looks as may work. May have to have the rattlebars peg lower kit for the clearance etc. as most did with the rattlebars kickshifter.

Jess from VA · Wed 30, Dec 2015, 12:52:52

I have Rattlebars shifters on both my interstates, and cobra boards, and NO lowering kits. Works like a charm.

gordonv · Wed 30, Dec 2015, 18:03:48

I think you would have an easier job on buying a GW GL1500 shift instead. At least the pegs are the same, and so might the mounting holes.

I bought a floor board and heel/toe shifter for my GW, but just like the Valkyrie, I didn't like it after mounting it.

I do love using a heel/toe shifter. Had it on my Honda CM400 and VT1100.

Ken Tarver · Fri 01, Jan 2016, 17:00:26

Hey Gordon,
Thanks for your suggestion. I been looking for the 1500 Gold Wing heel / toe shifter, but can only find it in a kit with the floorboards, and I don't want the boards...just the shifter is what I desire.
So I'm still going to be pursuing the possibility of the Add On shifter.
If anyone does have some idea of a 1500 Gold Wing shifter only, I will be glad to look.

Later
Ken

Red Diamond · Sat 02, Jan 2016, 12:28:13

In appearances the heel/toe shifter for the 1500 Goldwing and the Valkyrie are identical. The only difference is the shifter linkage, the Goldwing linkage being longer but can be cut and rethreaded to fit the Valkyrie. These are no longer available from the OEM, but there is a fellow VRCC'r from Poland (correct me if I'm wrong) that is willing to accept an arm or leg + about $300.00 for one.

Ken Tarver · Sat 02, Jan 2016, 14:50:00

Thanks Red, but I am keeping all my appendages and $300 for now. Am endeavoring to persevere.

Later
Ken

Red Diamond · Sun 03, Jan 2016, 09:34:29

You are a wise man and it will not cause you to enjoy your rides any less.

Ken Tarver · Fri 15, Jan 2016, 22:36:42

Well guys, I got the GL1800 Gold Wing heel / toe shifter by Add On Accessories (purchased from Chrome World). Cost was about $64 including the shipping. Going on the '99 I bought about 5 months ago.

Here is the shifter with Gold Wing mounting bracket

Gold Wing mounting bracket is removable

here is how it compares to the rattlebars shifter on my '97

this is the mounting hardware I had to purchase...
stainless 1.5" (38mm) & 2.5" (63.5mm) long bolts M8 x 1.25 (store didn't have chrome head, I'll get some chrome caps).
2 chrome 9/16" (14mm) nuts 5/16" (8mm) thick to use as spacers.
2 chrome washers, and 1 chrome 3/8" (9.5mm) long spacer.

front spacer nut, same spacer technique that was provided with the rattlebars shifter on the '97.

rear spacer nut, tried to get "real" spacers, hardware store didn't have. Sure with enough looking could find somewhere online. Also, here at the pivot point, a WASHER IS NEEDED ON BOTH SIDES of the pivot bushing.

I used this spacer because the rear shifter peg mounting bolt goes all the way thru about 1/2" and will hit the tins on the exhaust and believe it will be a benefit to have the peg a bit further out to the left. (and I don't have a good enough cutter for stainless). Outside dia. is 9/16" (12mm).
Inside dia. is 3/8" (10mm). It may look better if you can get a 7/8" (22mm) outside dia. spacer.
Online there is probably more access to more desired parts that what I had at the local hardware store

10.25" peg to peg on the Add On shifter, the rattlebars is 10.5" peg to peg.

Here it is complete. There is an extra peg that comes with the Add On shifter to use at the front, I didn't like the way it looked there. When upshifting (press down with heel) there is 1/8" clearance between the rear of the shifter and the exhaust tin, if more clearance is desired can use a couple of washers with the spacer nuts. This is the biggest difference between the Add On & Rattlebars. Rear of the Rattlebars shift bends outward from bike and then bends toward the rear again.

Went for a short ride yesterday...it works as great as the Rattlebars !! Whoop

Ken

Hook#3287 · Sat 16, Jan 2016, 07:18:59

Ken;

Great write up

Wish you had done that last year before I bought a used Rattlebars and had it re-chromed

gordonv · Sat 16, Jan 2016, 12:20:05

I like. A simple, inexpensive, New piece of equipment for our bikes.

You just used the mounting bolt for the foot peg as the pivot bolt. I went back to your pick, isn't the foot peg now "loose", float along with the shift lever? Wouldn't it be better to place a nut on the outside of the foot peg plate, so you can tighten the nut to the plate?

No problem in height of the rear heel shifter, the lever isn't mounted too high?

I didn't like this shifter on my GL1500s, I felt that the rubber of the shift lever was holding back my shift (missed shifts), and each time after a week of daily riding, I removed it.

I still like the heel-toe shifter, so next time will remove the rubber from the shift, and maybe add on a metal/nylon sleeve, for smother shifting.

Ken Tarver · Sat 16, Jan 2016, 15:48:09

I like. A simple, inexpensive, New piece of equipment for our bikes.

You just used the mounting bolt for the foot peg as the pivot bolt. I went back to your pick, isn't the foot peg now "loose", float along with the shift lever? Wouldn't it be better to place a nut on the outside of the foot peg plate, so you can tighten the nut to the plate?

No problem in height of the rear heel shifter, the lever isn't mounted too high?

I didn't like this shifter on my GL1500s, I felt that the rubber of the shift lever was holding back my shift (missed shifts), and each time after a week of daily riding, I removed it.

I still like the heel-toe shifter, so next time will remove the rubber from the shift, and maybe add on a metal/nylon sleeve, for smother shifting.

Gordon, the pivot bolt is the bolt that holds the peg triangular bracket to the frame (but now 2.5" long), the peg isn't held on by that bolt. The bolt ONLY holds the bracket & shifter to the frame. The peg is not moved when shifting. The peg is only going to move if the lean angle is enough to scrape pavement or moved with your hand or foot.
The heel peg is 1" lower than the peg on my rattlebars shifter...if wanted even lower, one could raise the stock shifter arm up 1 notch, which would lower the heel peg or attach another bracket to the shifter to lower the peg. The Rattlebars has 2 holes for mounting that peg...I have mine in the upper hole, am going to lower it now. The rubber will come off, then there are just 3 shallow grooves in the peg.

Ken

Roidfingers · Mon 18, Jan 2016, 11:23:21

Can you tell me where u ordered it from please. TY

Ken Tarver · Mon 18, Jan 2016, 11:44:00

Ordered from Chrome World. I can't link it right now, just google it

Ken

Roidfingers · Mon 18, Jan 2016, 11:51:22

got it ty

Wewaman · Thu 21, Jan 2016, 17:29:50

Ken,
I want to order the chrome bolts, spacers, and washers. So would you be so kind as to help me order the right sizes. BoltDepot.com seems to have everything you mentioned but I'm not sure about mm sizes

It wants to know the inside diameter of the spacers before it will let me pick the thickness, then it want's the outside diameter and length. Also they have chrome hex bolts 8mm x 1.25mm but the length is in mm
Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated.
By the way my 1800 heel/toe arrived today, can't wait to get the mounting hardware and get it installed.

Thanks,
Tony

Ken Tarver · Thu 21, Jan 2016, 22:20:51

Quote from: Wewaman on Thu 21, Jan 2016, 17:29:50
Ken,
I want to order the chrome bolts, spacers, and washers. So would you be so kind as to help me order the right sizes. BoltDepot.com seems to have everything you mentioned but I'm not sure about mm sizes It wants to know the inside diameter of the spacers before it will let me pick the thickness, then it want's the outside diameter and length. Also they have chrome hex bolts 8mm x 1.25mm but the length is in mm
Any help you can give would be greatly appreciated.
By the way my 1800 heel/toe arrived today, can't wait to get the mounting hardware and get it installed.

Thanks,
Tony

Tony,
Sent you a PM

Ken

N0tac0p · Fri 22, Jan 2016, 06:14:25

well lets post the critical dimensions

salty1 · Fri 22, Jan 2016, 06:41:23

Quote from: Ken Tarver on Fri 15, Jan 2016, 22:36:42
Well guys, I got the GL1800 Gold Wing heal toe shifter by Add On Accessories (purchased from Chrome World). Cost was about $64 including the shipping. Going on the '99 I bought about 5 months ago.

Here is the shifter with Gold Wing mounting bracket

gold wing mounting bracket is removable

here is how it compares to the rattlebars shifter on my '97

this is the mounting hardware I had to purchase... stainless 1.5" & 2.5" long bolts M8 x 1.25 (store didn't have chrome head, I'll get some chrome caps), 2 chrome 9/16" nuts 5/16" thick (spacers),
2 chrome washers, and 1 chrome 3/8" thick spacer

front spacer nut, same spacer technique that was provided with the rattlebars shifter on the '97.

rear spacer nut, tried to get "real" spacers, hardware store didn't have. Sure with enough looking could find somewhere online. Also, here at the pivot point, a washer is needed on both sides of the pivot bushing.

I used this spacer because the rear shifter peg mounting bolt goes all the way thru about 1/2" and will hit the tins on the exhaust and believe it will be a benefit to have the peg a bit further out to the left. (and I don't have a good enough cutter for stainless)

10.25" peg to peg on the Add On shifter, the rattlebars is 10.5" peg to peg.

Here it is complete. There is an extra peg that comes with the Add On shifter to use at the front, I didn't like the way it looked there. When upshifting (press down with heel) there is 1/8" clearance between the rear of the shifter and the exhaust tin, if more clearance is desired can use a couple of washers with the spacer nuts. This is the biggest difference between the Add On & Rattlebars. Rear of the Rattlebars shift bends outward from bike and then bends toward the rear again.

Went for a short ride yesterday...it works as great as the Rattlebars !! Whoop

Ken

Great work!

N0tac0p · Tue 26, Jan 2016, 15:40:05

I guess I don't understand if you have a stock flat peg plate or not, you should use the same spacer to move it out evenly should you not? why if the rear is close to the muffler would you not use a thicker spacer, even another 1/8"??

Ken Tarver · Tue 26, Jan 2016, 16:23:12

Quote from: N0tac0p on Tue 26, Jan 2016, 15:40:05
I guess I don't understand if you have a stock flat peg plate or not, you should use the same spacer to move it out evenly should you not? why if the rear is close to the muffler would you not use a thicker spacer, even another 1/8"??

I have the stock triangle shape mounting plate for the rider peg.
My bike did not have spacers between that plate and the frame.
If yours does, I would say they were added at some time.
I have 1/8" clearance from exhaust tins...Works for me.
Just mentioned the clearance as information for decisions folks may make.
Thicker spacer is an option if someone chooses.
I have stock pipes, 6x6's or other exhaust may present different needs.

Ken

N0tac0p · Tue 26, Jan 2016, 16:46:44

no I don't have spacers, you're missing the point. its a flat piece of steel so why different depth spacers versus the same size (ie the nuts and location).

Ken Tarver · Tue 26, Jan 2016, 17:27:42

Quote from: N0tac0p on Tue 26, Jan 2016, 16:46:44
no I don't have spacers, you're missing the point. its a flat piece of steel so why different depth spacers versus the same size (ie the nuts and location).

Not,
The 2 nuts used as spacers are the same thickness.
See picture and narrative of parts purchased, states 2 - 9/16" nuts 5/16" thick.
Ken

Hook#3287 · Tue 26, Jan 2016, 18:06:27

Ken, thanks for the great write up and for taking the time to explain it.

I got one last week but haven't taken the time to mess with it yet.

Ken Tarver · Tue 26, Jan 2016, 18:38:16

Quote from: Hook#3287 on Tue 26, Jan 2016, 18:06:27
Ken, thanks for the great write up and for taking the time to explain it.

I got one last week but haven't taken the time to mess with it yet.

Hook
let us know your results. Functional for you, likes / dislikes, etc.
If any additional pictures needed...let me know.

Ken

N0tac0p · Wed 27, Jan 2016, 04:31:51

@ Ken, got it. I guess I was thinking that they were MM to fit the thread size and you had 2 thknss.

now that I have unmuddied my mind, I will still ask why not HAVE a MM nut for the pivot bolt. I would tnik you'd want to lock the bolt with that as you cannot fully tighten the bolt as the shifter would lock.

so wouldn't I want to have the rear one HAVE the ability to jam/ lock on the frame so to leave the shifter free?

Ken Tarver · Wed 27, Jan 2016, 06:03:55

Won't need a jam nut.
I have the Rattlebars shifter on my '97, & now this one on my '99.
Neither has a jam nut.
It will become much more clear to you once you have it in your hand.
Right, the 2 "nut spacers" don't thread on the bolts, only used as spacers.
Ken

N0tac0p · Wed 27, Jan 2016, 09:35:12

ken what do you think the ID of the peg spacer is? you talk about the OD and length but ...

Ken Tarver · Wed 27, Jan 2016, 09:57:43

Quote from: N0tac0p on Wed 27, Jan 2016, 09:35:12
ken what do you think the ID of the peg spacer is? you talk about the OD and length but ...

3/8" (10mm)

N0tac0p · Wed 27, Jan 2016, 10:25:58

so the peg spacer is 3/8 ID x 7/8 OD x 3/8 dp (length/thkness)

Wewaman · Wed 27, Jan 2016, 15:47:59

FYI,
I got my shifter in the mail and went to ACE yesterday and they had Chrome M8x1.25 bolts but in metric the 1.5" is a tad bit longer, and the 2.5 " bolt is closer to 2.75". They didn't have the 5/16 thick spacers (the nuts) they only had 1/4 and 3/8 so I bought 3 of the 3/8 chrome spacers along with 2 chrome washers. I also bought 2 ea. 9/16 chrome nuts that measure the 5/16 thickness just in case the 3/8 spacers are to thick.
Total cost $13.85
I will put it together this weekend and post my results.

Thanks Ken for ALL the work and information

Tony

N0tac0p · Wed 27, Jan 2016, 16:01:06

as will I. I appreciate Kens patience in my never ending questions. but just to let you know, I found a great resource for chrome hardware and posted it on the tech site.

ciddriver · Wed 27, Jan 2016, 16:43:30

Nice wright up, will put on my 99 interstate.

Wewaman · Wed 27, Jan 2016, 22:11:24

okay just a quick follow up

I couldn't wait to see how it was gonna look so out to the barn i went

well a couple things I discovered:

1- the shifter will rub against the exhaust tins with just 1 of the 3/8 spacers.
(could be because I have MarkT exhaust )
I put the spacer and the spacer nut on and it cleared okay. So I'm going to get 2 ea. 3/4" long spacers and that should solve that problem.

2- Apparently the PO has installed peg lowering brackets and they also have the spacer nuts on them.
so I'm not sure if I am supposed to remove them or not. The left side looks simple but the right side looks like it will be a bit of a pain. It has spacer nuts between the frame and the lowering bracket and then some spacer nuts from the lowering bracket to the peg bracket
Your expertise is appreciated here

3- After I installed it I am noticing that the heel-toe shifter has some side to side play in it, Is that normal or should it be rigid/firm ?

4- you have to use the washers supplied with the shifter because I exchanged the ouside washer with a smaller chrome one and the heel-toe shifter started to slide over the washer and bolt head, so repaced it with the bigger one that came with it. just something to watch out for.

thats all for now,

Wewa

Ken Tarver · Wed 27, Jan 2016, 23:04:43

Does your markT exhaust have 5" dia. truck stacks? May be that the issue there. I don't have markT's, mine are 4" dia.
I'm not familiar with install particulars of peg lowering kit as how it would affect installing heel/toe shift.
I don't have any side to side play, but if you mean a little wiggle of front end to rear end (1/8" maybe), then yes.
I don't understand how it was coming over the washer and bolt head.

Just thought of this...Are you trying to install with the mounting bracket that came on the shifter? If so, that is for mounting on a 1800 gold wing. Need to remove that bracket if you haven't.
Ken

Wewaman · Thu 28, Jan 2016, 06:14:02

Mine are 4" stacks.

Yes there is about 1/8" front to rear, so I'm good with that.

1800 GW bracket has been removed.

There is an Oring on either side of the pivot bushing and then a washer.

I wanted to use the washer that I bought to use with the 2.5" bolt.
I used the smaller washer on the outside of the shifter/pivot bushing for appearance sake.
As I was investigating the wiggle in the shifter I saw that if there was enough force that the shifter would start to slide off/over the pivot bushing, washer and bolt head. So I changed back to the bigger washer that came with the shifter, (FYI the washer on the inside of the pivot bushing is bigger than the outside washer )

Hope that makes sense, it does to me anyways

Tony

DK · Thu 28, Jan 2016, 09:59:39

Quote from: Wewaman on Wed 27, Jan 2016, 22:11:24

2- - After I installed it I am noticing that the heel-toe shifter has some side to side play in it, Is that normal or should it be rigid/firm ?

The rattlebar shifter requires some flop to function properly.

Dan

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Add On heel / toe shifter