Damper holder plate

[Bone]

Removing the damper plate I had to tap it a little to rotate to a opening. I've done this few times but today it won't go back where I found it. How do you guys push it down I tapped on all the rubbers they seem seated but look high. This is the old dampers my new ones need 3 days to arrive.
Thanks for any help I've noticed as I age I don't use any profanity during these special moments

[Chrisj CMA]

I found when they are "too big" like that putting them in the freezer for a few hrs REALLY helps.  Also make sure they are not upside-down.  Mine had the word OUT  molded into the side you want facing UP

[Bone]

Ok now I remember the freezer method. These are the old ones I was guessing the new ones would be the same size.
I saw the word OUT on them.
Thanks

[cogsman]

Does this look normal? These indentations that conform to the shape of the dampers seem odd...

[Jess from VA]

When I got my new dampners, the plate would not go on (sit flush) because I had them in upside down.

[indybobm]

Does this look normal? These indentations that conform to the shape of the dampers seem odd...

Cogsman, I replied but put in your post about wheel bearings.

[cogsman]

Hi Indy, thanks for the post. Here are some pics. The splines look fine to me, unless I don't know what I'm looking at. Your opinions are welcome.

As I pulled the final drive, I found the depths to which my mechanic had f****d me over. The damper plate was NOT bolted on. It was being held by friction only. There was NO thrust washer in the final driven gear and no O-ring around the flange.

I looked at the other pic I posted with the bearing; while I noticed that the bearing lip inside the wheel was a bit mangled, it was there, and the bearing seems to be sitting solidly on it. as for the outer lip around the bearing once seated, there are a couple of dings but overall it doesn't look damaged. Again, assuming I am properly interpreting what I'm looking at.

I certainly hope I don't need to replace the whole wheel for these things. I've ordered new bolts and based your message, a new damper plate as well.

Do the dampers themselves look ok to you?

[BradValk48237]

Those are trash.... you should not be seeing those metal "tabs"... rubber should be covering.... thats why the marks are on the cover plate... might want to replace that too....

B

[Firefighter]

I don't trust any of the cycle shops in my area, that is one reason why I do my on work.

[Grumpy]

If you need a cover plate, I have a spare. Used but in excellent condition.
Just email me or personal message.

[BobB]

No one has mentioned it yet, but the rear end of your drive shaft does not look good.  I see a lot of wear.  Suggest you replace the shaft and pinion cup.  I had this fail four years ago when I was 750 miles from home and it brings one to a dead stop...

[Gryphon Rider]

No one has mentioned it yet, but the rear end of your drive shaft does not look good.  I see a lot of wear.  Suggest you replace the shaft and pinion cup.  I had this fail four years ago when I was 750 miles from home and it brings one to a dead stop...

You see a lot of wear, but how do you know how close to failure the wear shown indicates?

Here's my wear before Inzane 14:



Here it is before Inzane 15:



I am going to monitor the splines every time I have the back wheel off, and if the wear accelerates I will replace those parts.  Otherwise, I'm not worried.

[cogsman]

If I wanted to swap out the entire final drive and shaft, are all years and models compatible?

[hubcapsc]

If I wanted to swap out the entire final drive and shaft, are all years and models compatible?

Yes, they all interchange, you could even luck onto one of the
shiny clear-coated ones...

Your flange doesn't look all that bad in the (dark) picture... it is pretty easy
to change out the pinion cup on a final, if that is all that is wrong with it.

-Mike

[BobB]

Here is what a failed shaft and cup look like, I carried them home from Nashville TN.



The problem is these parts mesh and move together.  As time goes by and the wear becomes more evident, the amount of wear will accelerate, because the axial angle on the teeth is increasing.  IMO, it is impossible to predict when failure will occur and the reprocussions are serious.  Mine came to a complete stop 250 miles after experiencing the first clunk (a tooth slip) and I babied the throttle all that distance...

[cogsman]

I was worried about changing the pinion cup because the service manual was talking about a preload etc.

[hubcapsc]

I was worried about changing the pinion cup because the service manual was talking about a preload etc.

I don't remember that part... some people just brrrrrp them on and
off with impact drivers. I got one too tight that way once, it was a
hassle trying to get it back off later, and probably wasn't a "good
thing" for the affected parts.

I made a holder once that allowed me to loosen and tighten
pinion cup nuts to (80?) the specified torque.



I busted the holder to flinders trying to loosen the overly tight impact-driven
pinion cup 

-Mike