Tork values

[Thespian]

Did my search and came up empty. I'm looking for the tork values for front brake rotors. I know some say it's not necessary but with bolts that are suggested to be replaced when removed, I would like to make sure I don't over do it. Thanks in advance to the knowledge pool!  

[MaverickValk]

Try the search again using this spelling - torque.

[Thespian]

 I did but found more post's using the word tork than torque.

[gordonv]

The Service Manual should have what you are looking for.

http://valkyrienorway.com/download.html

[big poppa pump]

14 FT/LBS

[Hook#3287]

I would like to make sure I don't over do it.

You want to be careful with these, they snap easily.

[John Schmidt]

I guess Honda wants to cover their collective butts by calling for these bolts to be replaced. I've had mine off numerous times over the years....new rubber, new pads, etc., and still on the original bolts. And I have yet to use a torque wrench on them. Oh well, living dangerously as a way of life I guess. 

[Chrisj CMA]

I guess Honda wants to cover their collective butts by calling for these bolts to be replaced. I've had mine off numerous times over the years....new rubber, new pads, etc., and still on the original bolts. And I have yet to use a torque wrench on them. Oh well, living dangerously as a way of life I guess. 

Exactly John.  I have R/R'd a few rotors.  Most without a torque wrench.  The last time (rear rotor) I think there is a little more torque on them than the fronts. I figured I would break down and do it by the book, got out the trusty torque wrench and looked up the spec in the book then some locktite on the threads and start tightening.  Half of them felt right going to the correct torque and half I stopped a little early because it just felt tight.

Forcing a fastener to the "torque setting" is the only time I have broken a bolt on a motorcycle.

Be careful out there

[Thespian]

Thanks guys I think I will go just a bit light. With the locktite They should stay put. This is my third time I have used them, just snugged them up before. Thanks for the manual link Gordonv.

[Jess from VA]

I think the only reason they recommend new OE bolts is because they come pre-dipped in some dried thread locker stuff.

If they are in good condition, and you clean them up and add a bit of the right locktite, you don't need new ones. (blue, not red, I think)

Once you add loctite (oil/grease/antiseize/snot) to a bolt, you will not get an accurate torque reading anyway.  If it's completely dry (like new OE bolts), it's probably closer to accurate.

[RonW]

Imho, it's becuz a lot of torque wrenches are off plus the internal threads aren't cleaned out with a thread chaser.

[Thespian]

 The rotors will be going on a brand new wheel. original was knocked out of true when my bike was hit in the parking lot at work. Not sure I believe the tech, I'v been putting around on the bike while waiting for the new wheel and I get no vibration at all. Insurance is paying for it so to be safe I'm replacing it.

Sadly this is the second one partzilla has sent me. The first was so poorly packaged the the hub that receives the speedo was so smashed it had a lip all the way around. I was sick when I saw it as these parts will be unavailable "new" at some point.