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Failed Alternator Update

Started by Alberta Patriot, Tue 08, Aug 2017, 13:51:03

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Alberta Patriot

Is there an easy way to check the wire connections for conductivity. I just want to make sure the wires are not the issue...where do the connecting wires run to from the alternator so I can just do a test light check(Interstate)
Also...is the Goldwing unit the same capacity as the Valk Interstate.
I spun the rotor by hand and the bearings feel smooth with no play. The cush blocks also look fine.
Thanks
Say what you mean, Mean what you say.

Hook#3287

What made you pull the alternator?

Do you have a service manual?  There's a complete chapter on the alternator with all the processes to nail down issues.

There's also a manual in PDF in Dag's web site.

http://www.valkyrienorway.com/1520manual/valkyriegl1500.zip

98valk

unless u pull it apart, u cannot tell if the rear bearing is still good. did mine a few months ago. 52k, spinning that bearing by hand with my ear to it, I could hear looseness, didn't feel right either. used a bearing from NAPA which is for alts. brushes  were not even close to the wear/replacement lines. in another 50k I'll pull it again.
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798

gordonv

Chapter 16 in the service manual.

If you don't have, you can get a PDF copy from Norway. I still have a hard copy, which I carry on trips, incase I need it.

http://valkyrienorway.com/download.html
1999 Black with custom paint IS


vanagon40

You might check this thread.

There used to be a lot of information and photos in the old tech archives, but I believe those no longer exist (and the photos would likely be gone anyway). There was problems with broken windings that some very resourceful people repaired.

For a rebuilt, you might check M.A.R.S.

Alberta Patriot

I did download the manual a while back, and it is helpful in many ways, but the wiring  pages are not much help as they are very low resolution scans.
I did find much better diagrams though here:
http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/schematics/

I am going to take the alternator to have it tested and rebuilt as it seems to be the best option, as the after market ones on amazon sound like chinese built crap with crap components that I think will get me stranded. The local shop I am going to use gets excellent reviews online.
Say what you mean, Mean what you say.

Novavalker

#6
Just buy this one and clock it.
I have one and it works fine.
http://www.rareelectrical.com/i-26888701-new-alternator-fits-1990-honda-goldwing-gl1500-replaces-lr140-708b-31100-mt2-005.html
I replaced the bolt on flange that holds the rubber dampers with the stock one. The stock one was slightly smaller and the dampers went in without getting pinched when I reinstalled the alternator.
"The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing."

Gryphon Rider

Quote from: 7th_son on Wed 09, Aug 2017, 02:48:03
The local shop I am going to use gets excellent reviews online.
Which shop?  Years ago a shop with a good reputation (Bata's Electric) was unable to disassemble my Valk's alternator rotor to rewind it.  I ended up having one sent to me by Medicine Hat Moto Sports.

Alberta Patriot

Canadian Alternators & Starters:
http://www.canadianalternatorsandstarters.com/
I took the unit to them today around 10:00 and got a call back around 2:30.  The rotor wiring failed, so they will rewind that and install new brushes...$175. I will update when I install it sometime Friday or Saturday.
Say what you mean, Mean what you say.

98valk

Quote from: 7th_son on Wed 09, Aug 2017, 15:31:43
Canadian Alternators & Starters:
http://www.canadianalternatorsandstarters.com/
I took the unit to them today around 10:00 and got a call back around 2:30.  The rotor wiring failed, so they will rewind that and install new brushes...$175. I will update when I install it sometime Friday or Saturday.

make sure they check that rear bearing while its apart.
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798

Alberta Patriot

He said that he will check and replace anything that is suspect. This guy just seemed 'matter of fact' rather than the hesitant tone that I got from a couple other guys I talked to. I like positive attitude.
Say what you mean, Mean what you say.

98valk

Tip: thread locker on outer bearing sleeve.
GL1500 Alternator Bearings. The rear bearing on the Goldwing (1500) alternator can wear prematurely, the first sign of this is when a wobbling noise comes from the engine at around 2,500 rpm. This is a distinctive sound which if ignored can lead to the whole bearing spinning and wearing away the alloy in the rear cover, leading to costly replacement. The bearing is a NSK 6000DU and it's equivalent only costs a few pounds from your bearing supplier. When fitting the new bearing, a drop or two of thread locking compound on the outer area will prevent spin, assuming that the cover is not already scrap. This picture shows a knackered bearing and you can see the burn marks where it spun in the cover. The cover in this case had to be replaced.
http://homepage.eircom.net/~wingnut/GoldwingTips.htm
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798

Alberta Patriot

I picked up the rebuilt Alternator this morning around 10:00. Installed it and just finished a test ride. When I first started the bike...with the headlights facing the garage door and saw them brighten a little when I revved the engine, my wife gave a smile and a thumbs up.
The alternator was in good shape other than the rotor according to the tech, but he replaced the bearings and brushes as a matter of course. He commented that he thought the wire used for the rotor windings was too thin....anyway, I am back on the road.  :cooldude:
Say what you mean, Mean what you say.