Electrical dunce needs help with Multi-tester

[..]

I bought one of these
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=92020&xcamp=google&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=cpc&zmam=33951326&zmas=12&zmac=112&zmap=92020

First time I've owned one  dangerous in my hands.

I've read the instructions which are gobblydgook to me.

I have a pair of fork mounted spots on my ST1300 one of which has stopped working. I replaced the bulb but still no light.

What do I do with the multi-tester to ascertain if there is current coming to the spot? So many switches so little knowledge 

I did work out how to use the meter to check the strength of a variety of batteries. I was impressed 

[Thunderbolt]

plug black wire in com, the bottom opening.  Plug red wire in the next opening up from the com.  Place the pointed end of the black wire on a common or ground point on the bike frame, ie. engine block that is metal or on the negative post on the battery.  Place red pointed end on the wires in question or trace it back to where you see battery voltage.  That should help you locate the spot where you lose the source voltage.  I find it handy to use a short wire with clips on both ends to clip one end on the frame or negative post and one on the pointed end of the black wire.  When you find voltage, it will most likely indicate around 13V.  This of course is all done with the bike turned on as if you are driving with the switch in the on position.

[alph]

I hate to admit it, but I've been doing electrical work for over twenty years and those meters drive me crazy!!  I like my flute 75 with auto range.  Just turn it on, set the dial to AC or DC or resistance, and then plug away. 

I've blown up a few of those meters you've got because I left it on the lower setting and went to higher voltage.  Opps......  I just bought a really used fluke 73 off of ebay for $40.  I do mean really used!

[R J]

My son uses a meter, I use the old standby.      Clip on one end of the wire to go to ground, other end has a punch like handle with a light in it.      Hit a hot wire and da bub comes on.   Damn, I got juices so far, and keep going, when juices no show, den I 'nose' I has a problem somewhere between the last poke and this one.......

It has worked for me for over 67 years, so why change?    LOL.

[Patrick]

I'm not sure what type of tester you have,,but,, they are all pretty much the same.. Black is ground; battery negative terminal, frame, engine block, headlamp body, etc. .. Red lead goes to what-ever you want to test.. Set the switch on the meter scale to what you want to look for,, In this case DC volts at any setting above 12 will work.. Red lead goes to light connector and black lead goes to good ground.. Meter should read  12 to 13 volts with switch in the on position.. If it doesn't check for good ground on your black lead or change the black lead to a different ground location.. If that still doesn't work then you need to start looking in that circuit for the point at which you have and then loose the voltage.. Its always a good thing to start at the fuse and  any connections..

[Ricky-D]

Remember that that thing has a 9V internal battery and if you forget to switch it to off, the battery will go dead.

Just sayin'

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[Robert]

The meters are a mixed blessing, I agree with RJ for a problem like you have a test light is the tool. Reasons, First if you put the meter between a load like a light or something with bit more draw you can blow the thing out. Now there is usually a fuse inside that you can change but its kinda a pain. Next unless that thing beeps you always have to look at the meter to see if you have power. When you try to hold a wire and pierce the insulation and have your finger under the point you are about to pierce and well lets just say that its better not to be distracted at this point. When you use the light you can see because the bulb lights right in front of you. If you dont have power usually its not a reduction meaning usually you either have 12v or not. The meter comes into its own on power issues like less power than 12v a bad ground ignition wires and a whole bunch more just not finding were you have power or not. I have a Fluke meter and it sits in the drawer most of the time. Let me say one more thing the leads will sometimes give you a false reading if they dont make good contact too.

[judd]

Put that away before you hurt yourself  RJ nailed it, one of these is all you need for most bike/auto electrics http://www.google.com/products?q=12+v+test+light&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=V9RBS8TiBoLSsQPMzJ25BA&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CBQQrQQwAA

[..]

Put that away before you hurt yourself  RJ nailed it, one of these is all you need for most bike/auto electrics http://www.google.com/products?q=12+v+test+light&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=V9RBS8TiBoLSsQPMzJ25BA&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CBQQrQQwAA

Suprisingly I have one and will use both in my attempt to track down the problem. ONCE the garage reaches something above 40F

[Patrick]

Test lights have had there day, I grew up with them.. A test light will work for this problem,but, poking wires with test light probes is not something that should be done today..

[Michelin Man]

If you cannot find any voltage at your connection, check your ground. Set your meter on ohms, and see if you have any resistance between your ground wire and a frame or block ground.