Better Tie-Down Straps?

[allanbegg]

This past weekend, my son and I took the I/S and his Buell to the Tail Of The Dragon, on the trailer. He didn't think he could ride the "new to him" Buell the 650 miles to get there, in one day.

On the way down, I broke two ratchet straps and broke one more on the way home on the I/S. Now granted, these are the cheap ones that I bought at Harbor Freight, WalMart, Autozone, etc... but still...

For reference, I had six straps on the I/S. On each side, I had a strap around the fork/lower triple tree, one on the engine guard and one on the rear bag guard.

The bike was bouncing up and down enough, that the straps were rubbing (I guess) and eventually wore through the webbing.

Are there better straps that are designed to handle a little bit of abrasion without tearing in half?

I am ready to throw all of my existing straps away and invest in something better. Watching the I/S in the rearview mirror for 10-11 hours becomes exhausting, while dealing with July 4th holiday traffic at the same time.

Allan

[John Schmidt]

What you describe is all I've ever used for tie downs. Sounds like you might have left them rather loose to  allow the bike to bounce. I know mine never does, I use three on each side as well but in different spots. I use one on the lower tree tied slightly forward and a second one on the lower tree tied off 90 deg. to the side. The third one is on the frame, I remove the seat and use a strap which I hook the tie down into. It also goes slightly forward to the floor anchor. I've been over some pretty rough roads and have never snapped a strap.

[Mr Whiskey]

These guys.....
& they're only 'bout 80 miles from ya if ya wanna check 'em out in person.
http://securemycargo.com/
I've got a set of 4 of these....
(We've hauled the tractor with 'em in a pinch!)
http://securemycargo.com/stayput-ratchet-strap-wire-hook-wire-hook-30-3336-wll-yellow/

P.S. I wouldn't haul anything on cam buckle straps.
I jus' don't trust 'em.
My .02 worth.

[Jopson]

I snapped a couple of those cheap Walmart straps when towing bike behind 5th wheel camper. Stopped at a local NAPA and they had some 1000lb break strength straps. Much bigger and stronger than walmarts finest but not as big as the ones I use for hauling farm machinery though. Bought 4 of them, no problems after that!

[sandy]

Get 4 "soft ties" and use them around the bike parts.

[Danny McMillin]

I have always used soft-ties to attach to the bikes anchor points! I never put the strap directly to the bike. Never an issue in 50 years, and a few miles!! Also. while on the "tie-down" subject; you do not have to suck your front forks down to bottom-out point to properly tow a bike. Suck them down hard, and you will be scratchin' yo head, wondering why yur fork seals went South!! Have seen it happen hundreds of times!  :cooldude:Nuff said.....

[sheets]

I'm trying to visualize the configuration as described. Which straps broke, and where. 

[MarkT]

I bought some really nice, heavy duty ones at Big R.  Not cheap, a pair came with 4 loop straps. I think they are a couple thousand lbs IIRC (but I could be full of it).  Really high strength ratchet straps, serious overkill I think but I have lots of confidence in them.

[Hook#3287]

http://www.etrailer.com/Cargo-Tie-Downs/CargoBuckle/IMF18800.html

I used some similar to these, retractable, and they worked great.

They weren't the bolt on type, but had hooks at both ends.

The one time a strap failed on me, it was the hook that crapped out.

"Got a ten dollar bike, buy ten dollar straps."

[Rams]

I wouldn't haul anything on cam buckle straps.
I jus' don't trust 'em.
My .02 worth.

That advise is worth a fortune in repairs.   I whole heartedly agree with it.

Ratchet it or forget it.   BTW, soft loops are best in my opinion but, you can still use hard connections if, you do it right.   

[cookiedough]

4 of these straps one on each corner should be fine along with some soft straps on amazon.com

I got sick of buying cheaper straps tying down my ATV's all the time and snapping the straps after a few years of use, so got these and so far,  VERY heavy duty and have outlasted all other cheaper straps by far.  Sometimes it pays to pay a tad bit more for better quality vs. throwing money away on cheaper ratchet straps.

https://www.amazon.com/Keeper-05723-Heavy-Duty-Motorcycle-Down/dp/B000H6QWWC/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1468035360&sr=8-13&keywords=ratchet+straps

[allanbegg]

I'm trying to visualize the configuration as described. Which straps broke, and where. 

The first one to break was at the front fork/tree. The second and third were at the rear bag guard.

I think the issue was partly due to not using the soft tie (or loop straps).
I had the ratchet strap itself, up and around the fork/tree and then back down to the anchor.

Although there are a number of suggestions, I think the general consensus is to pay a little more for some better straps.

Thanks for all of the input.
Allan

[tonyfan70]

Seems like a good time to ask....

In Aug Im towing my bike to Custer State Park. Think its 900 miles each way. I'd love to ride the whole way but I have a messed up shoulder from a sled, uh, incident over a year ago.

Im terrified hauling any of my bikes on trailers. But I ride Hondas so they arent on trailers much. The only time I've had the Valk on a trailer was when my front valve stem broke off at 60mph. I was quite fearful of it tipping so I snugged it down pretty well.  Well enough that a month later I had to replace the fork seals.    I knew this would happen, I've done it before.

So on the recommendation of a trusted friend, I got myself a Pingle removeable chock that stabilizes the front wheel. Havent had the chance to use it until this upcoming trip. As I read the instructions it says  have all my straps pulling forwards toward the chock and to tighten her down. They state they have tightened front ends down as much as 80% without problems.

This seems to be opposite of what I was told decades ago and reinforced by proving it to myself (twice) by blowing out the fork seals. I don't really want to ride with my socks on my forks rather than my feet! I don't want to rebuild these forks again. Nor do I want to have my bike fall over.

I know to stand it up, not use the kickstand. I have soft straps coming. I have read up on the best spots to attach to the bike. If need be I can run boards along the rear tire for my own piece of mind, but...

Im confused now as far as ratcheting her down. Shouldnt the suspension work? Or not? Or ???


I wish I knew if my shoulder would hold up for 2500 miles    I generally roll my eyes at bikes on trailers but...

[sheets]

I'm guessing the ones on the bag guards were at a flat angle between points A & B.
Tie-downs are load rated for a vertical (90*) dead load. A load angle flatter than 60* increases tension on the straps and begins to lose its strength measurably. More angle = more tension. A 30* angle has reduced its dead load strength by 50%. Now, if the straps are not tight you need to factor in the shock load to the straps while bouncing around on a single axle trailer. Shock loads can far exceed the vertical 90* dead load rating. If the straps were well worn to begin with one can imagine how they could fail.      

[Mr Whiskey]

Im confused now as far as ratcheting her down. Shouldnt the suspension work? Or not? Or ???

Straps at all 4 corners, in a chock and cinched down onto a block of wood under the bike. This keeps the bike from compressing over bumps and stressing the straps. Saves the fork seals and steering head bearings too.
Use good straps with a WLL (Working Load Limit) of 2500 lbs or more & you should be good to go.
I tie it down like I might turn it over! Ya never know, accidents happen

[mark81]

if you wouldn't lift it up with the straps you shouldn't tie it down with them either. I have had to trailer a valk twice. once each time I bought one.

[Rams]

Seems like a good time to ask....

In Aug Im towing my bike to Custer State Park. Think its 900 miles each way. I'd love to ride the whole way but I have a messed up shoulder from a sled, uh, incident over a year ago.

Im terrified hauling any of my bikes on trailers. But I ride Hondas so they arent on trailers much. The only time I've had the Valk on a trailer was when my front valve stem broke off at 60mph. I was quite fearful of it tipping so I snugged it down pretty well.  Well enough that a month later I had to replace the fork seals.    I knew this would happen, I've done it before.

So on the recommendation of a trusted friend, I got myself a Pingle removeable chock that stabilizes the front wheel. Havent had the chance to use it until this upcoming trip. As I read the instructions it says  have all my straps pulling forwards toward the chock and to tighten her down. They state they have tightened front ends down as much as 80% without problems.

This seems to be opposite of what I was told decades ago and reinforced by proving it to myself (twice) by blowing out the fork seals. I don't really want to ride with my socks on my forks rather than my feet! I don't want to rebuild these forks again. Nor do I want to have my bike fall over.

I know to stand it up, not use the kickstand. I have soft straps coming. I have read up on the best spots to attach to the bike. If need be I can run boards along the rear tire for my own piece of mind, but...

Im confused now as far as ratcheting her down. Shouldnt the suspension work? Or not? Or ???


I wish I knew if my shoulder would hold up for 2500 miles    I generally roll my eyes at bikes on trailers but...

Yes, the suspension should be allowed to work.  The front is much more sensitive to pressure and abuse also.   That chock is also a good idea.   I trailer my Valkyrie much more than I prefer but, the wife doesn't ride so, if we're both going and I want ride either while in transit or at the destination, she has to be trailered (the Valkyrie, not the wife).    Learned the hard way that the Valkyrie is much easier to tie down.  

First when I load my bike, I do that by myself on a slick floor (the slick floor is being addressed ASAP).   Once I have the bike positioned where I want it, I slide a piece of 2X4 beneath the kick stand so that the bike is sitting only slightly off kilter.   Makes it much easier to get the tie downs close to being the right length sooner than later during the process.   I hook up both tie downs on the left side of the bike,  adjusting the length to where they are just barely snug, then move to the right side.    I always use the crash bar strap to get the bike close to vertical then tighten the strap that's looped over the handle bars.  

I use soft ratcheting straps on the front, two on each side.   Probably more than necessary.   One on the crash bar and one that passes through the crash bars and up to the handle bars that attach close to the triple tree.   The reason the handle bar strap goes through the crash bars is to keep the straps clear of the tank, paint, windshield and wiring.   Those straps could hold the Valkyrie all by themselves IMHO but, I go a couple of steps further.   I also use the trailer hitch to keep the rear of the bike from moving (both side to side and front to back.   Then I put another tie down front, through the crash bars securing the bike from that same back and forth, side to side movement.  I tighten the straps down to the point of the front suspension being about half way compressed.   Still allows for some (not much) movement.    Am I going to far?   Most likely doing way more than necessary but, that Valkyrie isn't going anywhere.   Pot holes and other obstacles are hard enough on our forks seals, I don't wish to add to the problem.  

Oh yeah, my trailer is an enclosed toy hauler so, at events like Inzane (where ever), the Dragon Round Up(Indiana) and other such activities.   I stay in the RV/Toy Hauler to save on Hotel costs.   While I'm trying to catch up with DDT in the High Mileage Club, at the rate I'm going, I'll be lucky to get the odometer to turn over once.   Much less five or six times.  


Ride and trailer safe.  

[Hook#3287]

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Reese-Carry-Power-Standard-Duty-Retractable-Ratchet-Tie-Down/16880819?action=product_interest&action_type=title&item_id=16880819&placement_id=irs-2-m2&strategy=PWVAV&visitor_id&category=&client_guid=06056e81-429f-43de-85ca-74d79ef20a95&customer_id_enc&config_id=2&parent_item_id=15125857&parent_anchor_item_id=15125857&guid=859e9115-6069-4244-adb9-952b456e860f&bucket_id=irsbucket013&beacon_version=1.0.1&findingMethod=p13n

I saw these at Walmart, they felt heavy-duty and well made.  Excellent price.

[baldo]

Seems like a good time to ask....

In Aug Im towing my bike to Custer State Park. Think its 900 miles each way. I'd love to ride the whole way but I have a messed up shoulder from a sled, uh, incident over a year ago.

Im terrified hauling any of my bikes on trailers. But I ride Hondas so they arent on trailers much. The only time I've had the Valk on a trailer was when my front valve stem broke off at 60mph. I was quite fearful of it tipping so I snugged it down pretty well.  Well enough that a month later I had to replace the fork seals.    I knew this would happen, I've done it before.

So on the recommendation of a trusted friend, I got myself a Pingle removeable chock that stabilizes the front wheel. Havent had the chance to use it until this upcoming trip. As I read the instructions it says  have all my straps pulling forwards toward the chock and to tighten her down. They state they have tightened front ends down as much as 80% without problems.

This seems to be opposite of what I was told decades ago and reinforced by proving it to myself (twice) by blowing out the fork seals. I don't really want to ride with my socks on my forks rather than my feet! I don't want to rebuild these forks again. Nor do I want to have my bike fall over.

I know to stand it up, not use the kickstand. I have soft straps coming. I have read up on the best spots to attach to the bike. If need be I can run boards along the rear tire for my own piece of mind, but...

Im confused now as far as ratcheting her down. Shouldnt the suspension work? Or not? Or ???


I wish I knew if my shoulder would hold up for 2500 miles    I generally roll my eyes at bikes on trailers but...

Don't have much to add about strapping a bike down, but your avatar.......

[Misfit]

Good staps have the soft tie loop built into them. As far as knowing how tight to suck them down goes. Keep the bike vertical and not leaning to one side. Keep it off of the side stand. Pull the bike forward into the chock. After the forks compress a couple of inches and the bike is straight up and down grab the handle bar and shake the bike sideways. The bike should not move independently from the trailer. All movement should be in the trailer suspension. When satisfied tie the back of the bike down and check again. Should be rock solid. Keep your anchor points low. I have trailered many Valkyries retrieving travelers and locals that have had trouble. Along with feching bikes for new owners in far away places. I think I paid $60.00 a pair for the straps that I use. My trailer is set up for Valkyrie specific anchor points and I can load and tie one off in less than five minutes. I have never had a single problem, broke a strap, or damaged a bike in any way with good straps and anchor points. 

[Jess Tolbirt]

there are two types of straps now days, one type is made of plastic and the others are nylon,, you can feel the difference as the plastic ones are real stiff, i will not use those...

[Roadog]

  Yes , soft hooks for sure and Ancra straps are one of the best for bikes. That is what they are designed for. Most bike shops have them .   I use the ratcheting straps for the front two and ratchet it down level and the soft hooks with the Ancra straps. Two sets , never an issue.

Roadog

[Rams]

My trailer is set up for Valkyrie specific anchor points.................

Misfit, I'm building a trailer for utility use but, am wanting to add Valkyrie specific anchor points also.
Would you mind posting a picture of what you've done.   Would greatly appreciate it.       Just looking for better ideas.   I'd just like to see what you did and learn something.    

Was thinking about using a "pop up" style tie down but, I'm not so sure about it's strength.

[Misfit]

I don't know how to post pictures. My trailer  was built specifically to haul a single motorcycle. It is built out of angle iron around the deck and about a foot above. I loaded a Valkyrie and placed the tie dows on the bike and pulled them to the frame at the right angles. At that point I drilled 1/2" holes through the angle iron and put a heavy duty threaded chain link Into the hole. That makes for an easy and positive anchor point. Nothing to slip or wear on the tie downs. My tie downs do not have an S hook at the ends. They are a fully closed spring loaded end with the soft tie loop on the bike. Straps are probably 1 3/4"-2" wide. I can haul any bike and just anchor where ever it works out but a Valkyrie which is what I usually haul ties down quick and easy. 

[Rams]

I don't know how to post pictures. My trailer  was built specifically to haul a single motorcycle. It is built out of angle iron around the deck and about a foot above. I loaded a Valkyrie and placed the tie dows on the bike and pulled them to the frame at the right angles. At that point I drilled 1/2" holes through the angle iron and put a heavy duty threaded chain link Into the hole. That makes for an easy and positive anchor point. Nothing to slip or wear on the tie downs. My tie downs do not have an S hook at the ends. They are a fully closed spring loaded end with the soft tie loop on the bike. Straps are probably 1 3/4"-2" wide. I can haul any bike and just anchor where ever it works out but a Valkyrie which is what I usually haul ties down quick and easy.  

OK, thanks.   I'm sure that works very well.  

The "utility" trailer I'm building was an old Pop Up Camper that I picked up for a song and a dance.   IOWs, cheap (can't sing or dance worth a hoot).   It's only a 2K lb. torque axle so it won't be hauling any heavy loads.   I stripped the camper off the frame, added some structural supports and then welded a tread plate floor to the frame (bent the excess tread plate to form fenders), added some slide out ramps and a corner tabs for tie downs spots.   But those tie down tabs are obviously not specific to Valkyries.

Actually, I'm pretty proud of taking someone else's piece of old junk and turning it into something useful.   I enjoy taking on such tasks.  I'd show it off but alas, I don't understand how to post pictures here either.    My upcoming task is to alter an old Steiner tractor snow plow to fit on my Ford tractor.   Once that's completed, I'll have to figure out how to raise and lower it.   There are tried and true ways to accomplish that but I don't want to add front hydraulics to my little Ford 1210 diesel.  More trouble than it's worth IMHO.   It's 4WD with a hydrostatic transmission so, it ought to do a bang up job.  I'm toying with using a small electric winch or, running a cable from a pulley on the front to the rear three point lift to raise and lower the blade but, that's on hold until I get a few other things done.     My wife thinks I do this because I'm cheap and lazy (she may be right) but I contend I just hate shoveling snow.     When it does snow, I have two long, wide driveways and clear five other elderly folks driveways also.   They are older than me so, obviously they are elderly.   I do it because they can't and don't take anything for doing it.   Some day I'm going to need help ya know.   We don't get all the much snow here in KY so it's not really a big deal.

Again, have a great day, ride safe and thanks for the explanation/description.  

[The emperor has no clothes]

I don't know how to post pictures. My trailer  was built specifically to haul a single motorcycle. It is built out of angle iron around the deck and about a foot above. I loaded a Valkyrie and placed the tie dows on the bike and pulled them to the frame at the right angles. At that point I drilled 1/2" holes through the angle iron and put a heavy duty threaded chain link Into the hole. That makes for an easy and positive anchor point. Nothing to slip or wear on the tie downs. My tie downs do not have an S hook at the ends. They are a fully closed spring loaded end with the soft tie loop on the bike. Straps are probably 1 3/4"-2" wide. I can haul any bike and just anchor where ever it works out but a Valkyrie which is what I usually haul ties down quick and easy. 

Your straps sound intriguing . But I'm having a hard time envisioning them without S hooks and with the soft straps built in. Do you remember where you got them ? I'd like to check them out.

[LL]

Google something like
"2" BIG DADDY'S Deluxe Ratchet w/Sheepskin Soft-tye" and THAT's the ones you want to use off the triple trees (or similar) it will get you the right idea and direction.