Now that I own one, it's time for some maintenance. Questions galore...

[Ken aka Oil Burner]

I've searched the forums for most of this stuff, but would like some further advice, if y'all would be so inclined.

I already added Mark T's lift adapter and peg lowering kit. I have the Ultimate Big Boy seat. Hoping to find a used King at some point, but it's much better already.

It has new tires F+R. Shinko, which I have no experience with, but they seem decent so far. Hoping to go Avon and ATT at next change, but want to service the rear now, since I don't know what was done, or when. Apparently, the Moly 60 is NLA from Honda, and the replacement is not the same. What's the current recommendation for moly lube? I plan on getting the O-rings from Redeye.

I also want to do the wheel bearings F+R. I feel it's inexpensive insurance against failure, and I want to do the double row bearing mod in the rear anyway. I already contacted Grumpy and ordered the spacer. I've always tried to use Timken bearings, but most posts recommend Japanese bearings. So, Honda, Timken, Koyo, or who else?

Shock bushings. I saw a post recommending these: https://www.mcmaster.com/#6389k344/=1cda9e0   Any negatives with using nylon sleeve bushings, such as rattling, squeaks, etc.? I'd have to think they'll last awhile. Any other recommended bushings?

Last one (for now): Seeing the alternator failure thread last week by Meathead, I am considering replacing the alternator now. I have 43K on my 1998, and no charging issues so far. I plan on purchasing an alternator from Ken Heming, since he was recommended on here. If I do, should I keep mine as a backup, or am I worrying too much?

I want to take care of this stuff before any failure. After telling all my friends how reliable the Valkyries are, I can't be having any breakdowns 

[gordonv]

Everything looks good.

Shock bushing. I've the same link, but most recommend the VTX poly ones instead.

Alternator. I wouldn't. It's a Honda. Take it out if you wish, and give it a good clean, and inspect the bushings. MY 88' GW with 62K stopped working. Turned out to be dirty brushes. Cleaned, and I figure I would have had another 30K miles. Others with over 150K.

Instead, install a volt meter. and keep an eye on it.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,55204.0.html

[Andy Cote]

I have a King on my Interstate.  I am not inclined to replace it but we should compare.  Let me know if you are headed North soon.

There is a post on the classifieds for a seat trade but the wrong direction I think.

[Hook#3287]

I attended Daniel Myers "Fat Lady's Rear End Service" gig at Inzane even though I've had the rear tire off a Valk a couple of dozen times.  He does a great job and it was good to see my thoughts and procedures proven by an expert. 

Moly Lube, use the new stuff or good old axle grease.  What is the most important thing, is not to use so much you plug the holes in the pinion cup.  Pay close attention to only hand tightening the 4 pumpkin nuts till after torquing the axle, then tighten them.

Shock bushings - Honda VTX.

Alternator - get the spare, clean the original.  My first Valk has 116k on the original w/o issues.

Bearings - Changing out perfectly good bearings "just because" can cause potential damage to the bearing seat.  It could cause wheel damage, so that the wheel is junk.  If your planning a long trip and you want piece of mind, that's one thing, but just to run around a couple of hundred miles in a day locally, not necessary.  Usually you'll get plenty of warning if a bearing is going.

[sandy]

Most Pro shops use Bel Ray Waterproof grease on the wheel splines (I do). On the drive axle (both ends), I use Valvoline Durablend grease with 3% moly.

[F6Dave]

As others have said, it's highly unlikely you'll have alternator problems with such low miles.  I have a '98 with 175,000 miles and a '99 with 98,000 miles.  Both alternators are original and haven't been touched.