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Author Topic: Electrical dunce question about heated gear  (Read 2313 times)
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Maggie Valley, NC


« on: January 13, 2019, 06:30:59 AM »

How do I use a volt meter to see how much current is running through the pigtail from the battery to my jacket liner?
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Jersey
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VRCC #37540

Southern Maryland


« Reply #1 on: January 13, 2019, 07:01:14 AM »

Good question! 

Depending on your VOM (Volt Ohm Meter), you should have an Amperage reading.  There might even be two types, one for DC and one for AC.  Make sure to set it to DC.  Also, be aware of the limit it can read.  Most VOMs support 10amps.

Set the indicator to the amperage range to the highest to start and go from there.

Next make sure the leads are appropriately inserted into the VOM.  USUALLY, the positive lead has a separate insert for the high amperage readings.

Hooking up the Leads:
Rather than try to explain it, here's a link to the website All About Circutis that does a really good job:

https://www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/experiments/chpt-2/ammeter-usage/

Hope that helps!!
Jersey





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Jersey
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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #2 on: January 13, 2019, 08:18:28 AM »

Once I have it set to 10A and the black lead plugged into COM, the red lead plugged into 10A what do I touch with the probes?

My volt meter

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Ge-50953-17-range-6-function-Digital-Multimeter/17117739
« Last Edit: January 13, 2019, 08:20:11 AM by Britman » Logged
pancho
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Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #3 on: January 13, 2019, 08:29:21 AM »

The easiest way would be to have a couple of these to get in the circuit,

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5pair-12V-5-5x2-1mm-Male-Female-DC-Power-Socket-Jack-Connector-Cable-Plug-Wire/272180991208?hash=item3f5f4054e8:g:F2MAAOSwpIdW8CCW:rk:1:pf:0

But let me say that without gloves, the maximum I am aware of for any jacket liner is 7 amps. Look up your jacket liner on the web and check the specs. Otherwise go to where the pigtail connects to the power, remove the connection and put your meter between the two.
« Last Edit: January 13, 2019, 08:32:44 AM by pancho » Logged

The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #4 on: January 13, 2019, 08:35:12 AM »

The easiest way would be to have a couple of these to get in the circuit,

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5pair-12V-5-5x2-1mm-Male-Female-DC-Power-Socket-Jack-Connector-Cable-Plug-Wire/272180991208?hash=item3f5f4054e8:g:F2MAAOSwpIdW8CCW:rk:1:pf:0

But let me say that without gloves, the maximum I am aware of for any jacket liner is 7 amps. Look up your jacket liner on the web and check the specs. Otherwise go to where the pigtail connects to the power, remove the connection and put your meter between the two.

6.5A

So put the red probe on the pigtail and the black probe on the connection to the jacket?
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pancho
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Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #5 on: January 13, 2019, 08:45:58 AM »

 No, if there is a fuse on the pig tail, (bike side, probably under the seat) remove it and put the probes on either side of the fuse holder,, either way will give you a reading.
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Andy Cote
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Windham, Maine


« Reply #6 on: January 13, 2019, 08:48:22 AM »

You should go to where the pigtail hooks to the battery.  Disconnect from battery and use a short wire with alligator clips to connect the battery to one of the probes then with another jumper wire, clip the other probe to the wire you disconnected from the battery,  Tape everything or otherwise insulate these clips from each other and from the bike.  Without the probes connected, turn the meter to the 10A setting (about 3:30 on the dial).  Plug one probe into COM jack and one into the 10A jack.  Plug your liner in and take a reading.

I have to ask though, why?  The heating elements are just resistance.  They work or they don't.  You can take a resistance reading of the liner by setting meter to Ohms and checking the inner female side of the plug to the outer male side.  
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2015 Goldwing, basic black

Previously: 2000 Valkyrie Interstate, 1997 Valkyrie Standard, 1988 GL1500, GL1200 Standard, GL1200 Interstate and many other Hondas
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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #7 on: January 13, 2019, 08:57:06 AM »

When I plug the temp controller in to my bike the "on" light doesn't work.

On another bike it does.

Fuse in PC8 unit is OK.

I was trying to determine if the pigtail itself is faulty.
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pancho
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Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #8 on: January 13, 2019, 09:00:51 AM »

In that case you want to take a voltage reading to see if 12 volts is present at the pig tail connector. Forget the amps setting, you want DC voltage, there should be 12 volts at the pig tail, but since your jacket liner works on another bike, I think we can assume that it is not there and you need to chase the wiring from the fuse to the battery and look for the problem,,, also check the ground.
« Last Edit: January 13, 2019, 09:04:31 AM by pancho » Logged

The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #9 on: January 13, 2019, 09:01:53 AM »

No, if there is a fuse on the pig tail, (bike side, probably under the seat) remove it and put the probes on either side of the fuse holder,, either way will give you a reading.


THIS PRECISELY WHY I snuggling HATE MESSING WITH snuggling ELECTRICAL crap.

Did as suggested and it blew my HID headlight. Now I have to check the ballast and the snuggling BULB.

F F S !
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Andy Cote
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Windham, Maine


« Reply #10 on: January 13, 2019, 09:06:31 AM »

In that case you want to take a voltage reading to see if 12 volts is present at the pig tail connector.

Agree.

Then check voltage from neg terminal of battery to each side of fuse holder.  Lastly check resistance from ground side of connector to neg terminal on battery.
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2015 Goldwing, basic black

Previously: 2000 Valkyrie Interstate, 1997 Valkyrie Standard, 1988 GL1500, GL1200 Standard, GL1200 Interstate and many other Hondas
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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #11 on: January 13, 2019, 09:10:49 AM »

Title of this thread is electrical dunce.

Some of you might as well be writing in Swahili.  Cheesy
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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #12 on: January 13, 2019, 09:12:02 AM »

Checked HID headlight fuse in PC 8 unit. It's good.

Put it back in and HID light works.

Phew!
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pancho
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Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #13 on: January 13, 2019, 09:16:02 AM »

No, if there is a fuse on the pig tail, (bike side, probably under the seat) remove it and put the probes on either side of the fuse holder,, either way will give you a reading.


THIS PRECISELY WHY I snuggling HATE MESSING WITH snuggling ELECTRICAL poop.

Did as suggested and it blew my HID headlight. Now I have to check the ballast and the snuggling BULB.

F F S !


Well, that just might reinforce what you already know,,,  probably ought to leave the electrical to someone else Britman.  
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Jersey
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VRCC #37540

Southern Maryland


« Reply #14 on: January 13, 2019, 09:16:58 AM »

I understand the frustration.  As a Ham Radio guy, my advice is to draw out what you want to determine.

It appears from the postings that when you plug the gear in it isn't working.  If that's the case then you want to do as others advised and check for Voltage... not amps.

Can you provide a description (pic) of where you're plugging the equipment into?    The normal DC Power Plugs have a pin inside that the Positive 12 volts is carried.  Set your VOM to DC Voltage and touch the BLACK lead to the chassis and the RED lead to the center pin of this plug.  Your key might need to be turned on - depending on how it was wired into the bike.

SECOND Advice:  Move slowly and be specific in what you do.  If you're not sure. STOP. 
« Last Edit: January 13, 2019, 09:21:04 AM by Jersey » Logged

Jersey
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #15 on: January 13, 2019, 09:21:31 AM »

I understand the frustration.  As a Ham Radio guy, my advice is to draw out what you want to determine.

It appears from the postings that when you plug the gear in it isn't working.  If that's the case then you want to do as others advised and check for Voltage... not amps.

Can you provide a description (pic) of where you're plugging the equipment into?    The normal DC Power Plugs have a pin inside that the Positive 12 volts is carried.  Set your VOM to DC Voltage and touch the BLACK lead to the chassis and the RED lead to the center pin of this plug.  Your key might need to be turned on - depending on how it was wired into the bike.



Getting close to Swahili  Cheesy

What does a DC voltage symbol look ,like on a voltmeter?
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Jersey
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VRCC #37540

Southern Maryland


« Reply #16 on: January 13, 2019, 09:23:31 AM »

On your meter it's the section in the upper left side.  

The AC is shown by a wavy line.

The DC is shown by a solid line above a dotted line.

For 12 volts, set your VOM to about the 10:30 Clock position on the "20"
« Last Edit: January 13, 2019, 09:25:38 AM by Jersey » Logged

Jersey
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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #17 on: January 13, 2019, 09:23:59 AM »

I understand the frustration.  As a Ham Radio guy, my advice is to draw out what you want to determine.

It appears from the postings that when you plug the gear in it isn't working.  If that's the case then you want to do as others advised and check for Voltage... not amps.

Can you provide a description (pic) of where you're plugging the equipment into?    The normal DC Power Plugs have a pin inside that the Positive 12 volts is carried.  Set your VOM to DC Voltage and touch the BLACK lead to the chassis and the RED lead to the center pin of this plug.  Your key might need to be turned on - depending on how it was wired into the bike.



Getting close to Swahili  Cheesy

What does a DC voltage symbol look ,like on a voltmeter?

I saw it on Google.
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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #18 on: January 13, 2019, 09:25:14 AM »

On your meter it's the section in the upper left side. 

The AC is shown by a wavy line.

The DC is shown by a solid line above a dotted line.

Then set meter to 500, 200, 20, 2000m, 200m?
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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #19 on: January 13, 2019, 09:25:48 AM »

On your meter it's the section in the upper left side. 

The AC is shown by a wavy line.

The DC is shown by a solid line above a dotted line.

I've marked them with a sharpie. Thanks.
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Jersey
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VRCC #37540

Southern Maryland


« Reply #20 on: January 13, 2019, 09:26:37 AM »

Set it to "20"... that's a good range for automotive/motorcycle voltages
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Jersey
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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #21 on: January 13, 2019, 09:28:04 AM »

Set it to "20"... that's a good range for automotive/motorcycle voltages

Thanks.

Into the wild blue yonder...................
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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #22 on: January 13, 2019, 09:29:04 AM »

Whoa. Not so quick Paul.

Where do I plug the red and black leads into on the volt meter?
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pancho
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Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #23 on: January 13, 2019, 09:41:40 AM »

No, if there is a fuse on the pig tail, (bike side, probably under the seat) remove it and put the probes on either side of the fuse holder,, either way will give you a reading.


THIS PRECISELY WHY I snuggling HATE MESSING WITH snuggling ELECTRICAL poop.

Did as suggested and it blew my HID headlight. Now I have to check the ballast and the snuggling BULB.

F F S !


Well, that just might reinforce what you already know,,,  probably ought to leave the electrical to someone else Britman.  

Forgive me Britman,, that was an unkind statement. We all have areas where we struggle and we need to work on them, not push them aside and leave them for someone else. I'm still learning.
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #24 on: January 13, 2019, 09:50:05 AM »

No, if there is a fuse on the pig tail, (bike side, probably under the seat) remove it and put the probes on either side of the fuse holder,, either way will give you a reading.


THIS PRECISELY WHY I snuggling HATE MESSING WITH snuggling ELECTRICAL poop.

Did as suggested and it blew my HID headlight. Now I have to check the ballast and the snuggling BULB.

F F S !


Well, that just might reinforce what you already know,,,  probably ought to leave the electrical to someone else Britman.  

Forgive me Britman,, that was an unkind statement. We all have areas where we struggle and we need to work on them, not push them aside and leave them for someone else. I'm still learning.

You speak the truth. Electricity is the work of the devil.

It's something my brain has never been able to understand.
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Jersey
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VRCC #37540

Southern Maryland


« Reply #25 on: January 13, 2019, 10:04:55 AM »

Whoa. Not so quick Paul.

Where do I plug the red and black leads into on the volt meter?

The Black lead into the COM

The RED lead into the VΩmA
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Jersey
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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #26 on: January 13, 2019, 10:20:29 AM »

Big fat 00.00 on the volt meter.

Pigtail is securely connected to the PC8 fuse block.
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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #27 on: January 13, 2019, 10:21:13 AM »

I'll replace the fuse that looks OK.
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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #28 on: January 13, 2019, 10:25:15 AM »

Helps if I follow instructions  Embarrassed

TURN KEY ON.

Voltmeter reads 0.15
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Jersey
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VRCC #37540

Southern Maryland


« Reply #29 on: January 13, 2019, 10:33:43 AM »

Big fat 00.00 on the volt meter.

Pigtail is securely connected to the PC8 fuse block.

From an electrical perspective, I never like using those 'screw terminal' connectors for automotive/motorcycle use.  The environment plays havoc on them and can oxidize/corrode them.

Recommend, you do the following:

1. VERIFY 12v is occurring AT the FUSE.  (Black to Chassis, RED touch to BOTH metal points on the back of the fuse itself)

2. RECHECK 12v at the CENTER PIN of the DC Socket (That you plug the heated gear into)
(BLACK to Chassis, RED to Center Pin)

Try and do this while wiggling and bending parts of the wire going to the DC Socket.  This will tell you if there's an electrical break in the wire.

You may need to replace the DC Socket wire.  Recommend getting a new DC Power Socket that uses AT LEAST 14 AWG (Gauge) wire.
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Jersey
Jersey
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VRCC #37540

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« Reply #30 on: January 13, 2019, 10:39:29 AM »

Here's a solid one:

https://firstgear-usa.com/heated/36-battery-harness.html
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Jersey
pancho
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Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #31 on: January 13, 2019, 10:55:11 AM »

Britman, is this something that was working, or are you connecting it up to your PC-8 for the first time?
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The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #32 on: January 13, 2019, 10:57:26 AM »

Using my new found knowledge I plugged in the heat controller

Turned the key on  Cheesy

Put the red prove into the outlet of the controller and the black probe on bare metal on bike frame.

A big fat ZERO.

Very strange because the last time I saw the controller working was when I plugged it into friends bike on Saturday and the power light on the controller came on.

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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #33 on: January 13, 2019, 10:57:58 AM »

Britman, is this something that was working, or are you connecting it up to your PC-8 for the first time?

Was working.
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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #34 on: January 13, 2019, 11:03:56 AM »

I'll have to wait until I'm with another bike that has a pigtail that I can plug it into.  Angry
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Jersey
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VRCC #37540

Southern Maryland


« Reply #35 on: January 13, 2019, 11:04:48 AM »

Using my new found knowledge I plugged in the heat controller

Turned the key on  Cheesy

Put the red prove into the outlet of the controller and the black probe on bare metal on bike frame.

A big fat ZERO.

Very strange because the last time I saw the controller working was when I plugged it into friends bike on Saturday and the power light on the controller came on.



Have you tested the voltage BEFORE the controller?  Is the Controller directly wired to the PC8 or is it plugged in?  The Controller could be bad or turn off.

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Jersey
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Posts: 27796


Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #36 on: January 13, 2019, 11:08:13 AM »

Using my new found knowledge I plugged in the heat controller

Turned the key on  Cheesy

Put the red prove into the outlet of the controller and the black probe on bare metal on bike frame.

A big fat ZERO.

Very strange because the last time I saw the controller working was when I plugged it into friends bike on Saturday and the power light on the controller came on.



Have you tested the voltage BEFORE the controller?  Is the Controller directly wired to the PC8 or is it plugged in?  The Controller could be bad or turn off.



Pigtail to controller reads 0.15
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Jersey
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Posts: 545


VRCC #37540

Southern Maryland


« Reply #37 on: January 13, 2019, 11:12:38 AM »

Using my new found knowledge I plugged in the heat controller

Turned the key on  Cheesy

Put the red prove into the outlet of the controller and the black probe on bare metal on bike frame.

A big fat ZERO.

Very strange because the last time I saw the controller working was when I plugged it into friends bike on Saturday and the power light on the controller came on.



Have you tested the voltage BEFORE the controller?  Is the Controller directly wired to the PC8 or is it plugged in?  The Controller could be bad or turn off.



Pigtail to controller reads 0.15

Ok. so you have a BAD pigtail.  You'll need to replace it.  Check the earlier post for the link. 

For S&G's, maybe try to loosen the Screw Terminal for the pigtail, remove the wire and cut the ends off.  Restrip to show fresh wire and try that.  It MIGHT work, but most likely the pigtail has a break somewhere in it and just has to be replaced.
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Jersey
Jersey
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VRCC #37540

Southern Maryland


« Reply #38 on: January 13, 2019, 11:15:07 AM »

Just to verify...  you mean the Pigtail from the PC8. Right?
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Jersey
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Maggie Valley, NC


« Reply #39 on: January 13, 2019, 11:30:16 AM »

Just to verify...  you mean the Pigtail from the PC8. Right?

Yes.
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