alternator disassembly

[pancho]

I want to remove the stator coil and rear cover from my alternator to inspect the brushes and commutator rings and the rear cover is hung up. The cover had moved back about 1/4 inch but isn't going further with semi gentle taps and a drift. Is this just a tight bearing and I need more force, or am I missing something? Page 16-11 which might show the rear cover removal or something important is blacked out in the service manual I downloaded from Dags Norway site...?

[Chrisj CMA]

It’s the bearing hanging up in its seat. Apply heat with a heat gun at the back end to try to expand the seat opening

[98valk]

you're prying the wrong end of the green center section apart. push it together and pry green center section from the front cover. there are pry points for a screw driver.

[gordonv]

But to get to the brushes, you still need to remove the other end.

I see the 5 nuts off the end, and the (most likely) 3x housing bolts removed. I know I had left the end nuts on, and pried enough the the copper wire stretched and broke from the windings.

[hubcapsc]

[pancho]

Thanks all for the information.

Heatgun did the trick Chris, the rear case slid right off, and worked to get the stator assy. out of the front case too.

Looking forward to hearing about your headwork results CA, hope you do a dyno test.

Hey gordonv, I envisioned something like that happening, so I stopped.

Thanks for 16-11 Mike, always wondered what was on it, but it was never critical until now.

I'm glad I decided to take a look at the alternator, there was a lot of crap in it, not only carbon dust from the brushes, but small rocks and other debris. Couldnt have been doin it any good.



With only 67000+ miles on the bike the alternator has a lot of wear. The slip rings are rough and have  wear, although they have a long way to go to their wear limit, and the brushes are ready for replacement.





I'm putting this one back together for now, and ordering brushes, but I think it is time to get the higher wattage one I have read about from a 1500 wing and making this one a spare.

Anyone know off hand what year models of wings have the higher capacity alt that fits our bikes with a rear cover and stator clocking?

[The emperor has no clothes]

Thanks all for the information.

Heatgun did the trick Chris, the rear case slid right off, and worked to get the stator assy. out of the front case too.

Looking forward to hearing about your headwork results CA, hope you do a dyno test.

Hey gordonv, I envisioned something like that happening, so I stopped.

Thanks for 16-11 Mike, always wondered what was on it, but it was never critical until now.

I'm glad I decided to take a look at the alternator, there was a lot of crap in it, not only carbon dust from the brushes, but small rocks and other debris. Couldnt have been doin it any good.



With only 67000+ miles on the bike the alternator has a lot of wear. The slip rings are rough and have  wear, although they have a long way to go to their wear limit, and the brushes are ready for replacement.





I'm putting this one back together for now, and ordering brushes, but I think it is time to get the higher wattage one I have read about from a 1500 wing and making this one a spare.

Anyone know off hand what year models of wings have the higher capacity alt that fits our bikes with a rear cover and stator clocking?

This is the one I got. I don’t remember exactly the years. Maybe about 92-98 ? But I don’t remember it being of higher wattage either. Just cheaper than the Valkyrie alternator.

[pancho]

Maybe I just dreamed that up meathead, or got something else mixed up with the wing alternative.

 Are you aware of any higher wattage/amperage alternator that fits our bikes?

[98valk]

Thanks all for the information.

Heatgun did the trick Chris, the rear case slid right off, and worked to get the stator assy. out of the front case too.

Looking forward to hearing about your headwork results CA, hope you do a dyno test.

Hey gordonv, I envisioned something like that happening, so I stopped.

Thanks for 16-11 Mike, always wondered what was on it, but it was never critical until now.

I'm glad I decided to take a look at the alternator, there was a lot of crap in it, not only carbon dust from the brushes, but small rocks and other debris. Couldnt have been doin it any good.



With only 67000+ miles on the bike the alternator has a lot of wear. The slip rings are rough and have  wear, although they have a long way to go to their wear limit, and the brushes are ready for replacement.





I'm putting this one back together for now, and ordering brushes, but I think it is time to get the higher wattage one I have read about from a 1500 wing and making this one a spare.

Anyone know off hand what year models of wings have the higher capacity alt that fits our bikes with a rear cover and stator clocking?

can't see all of your pics. however, for the brushes the installation holes are not the wear marks.  check that rear bearing, mine at 50k was not good so I replaced it with a better napa bearing.

the way alternators work, many times a higher amp alt has reduced charging at idle and just off idle rpms.  on cagers simple fix was always a pulley swap.

Dyno is in the cards.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Maybe I just dreamed that up meathead, or got something else mixed up with the wing alternative.

 Are you aware of any higher wattage/amperage alternator that fits our bikes?

Yes, there are many aftermarket ones. I have one. It was cheap and that`s why I got it. (I`m cheap) But, don`t be tempted like I was. I think they are probably cheap because of cheap labor and cheap bearings, etc. The o`ring that comes with them is crappy and leaks, my nut that holds the drive on loosened and started clanging after 10k. Then on the way to Roanoke at 50k, one of the bearings went out. Luckily I was able to have it rebuilt in Amarillo. And all is well now. But one of the first things I did upon returning from that trip was to buy the GW alt. for backup.
 Gryphon Rider explained to me that having a 85 amp alternator if it`s not needed is not good for the battery anyway. Unless you are pulling some major amps with multiple heated clothing, you are probably just fine with the GW one.

[The emperor has no clothes]

CA is correct about them not charging well at low rpm`s. Mine needs to be up to about 1100-1200 before it`s out of the red.

[hubcapsc]

I think this is the high-output/rebuild guy that a lot of people like to use...

http://myplace.frontier.com/~hemi-roid/

-Mike

[pancho]

I think I'm going to do an actual load test with everything connected up just to see what my actual amperage requirements are under full load. I have heated gear, extra led lighting, spots, stereo, charging for maps and soon an audio amp. It may not be as much as I'm thinking, and no sense of asking for trouble if not necessary. If my requirements are within the stock output, I guess I will go with  a GW for backup.

I'm familiar with doing the required work on cheap knockoff parts before they are reliable meathead, been doing it for years...

The alternator went back in much easier than it came out, I think I have my method worked out.

These brushes may have a bit of life in them CA, but compared with new, they look like a worn out tire to me.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Honda-31101-MN5-005-Brush-NOS/252479274050?epid=1629663115&hash=item3ac8effc42:g:tBsAAOSw4Upclw-N:sc:USPSFirstClass!72916!US!-1

Brushes are ordered and the rear bearing is good but I may replace it anyhow as it is exposed to all that carbon dust and it doesn't take much of a breach to allow those superfine particles to enter, good idea. I should have measured it while it was apart, do you have the NAPA part number handy?

Just looking at the pictures of his tools and parts on his website is enough to give me confidence in his work Mike.

[Avanti]

I think this is the high-output/rebuild guy that a lot of people like to use...

http://myplace.frontier.com/~hemi-roid/

-Mike

According to Ken Heming at the link above, who has rebuilt over 1,000 Honda alternators, it is the rear bearing that goes bad first at around 100,000 miles.

[98valk]

I think I'm going to do an actual load test with everything connected up just to see what my actual amperage requirements are under full load. I have heated gear, extra led lighting, spots, stereo, charging for maps and soon an audio amp. It may not be as much as I'm thinking, and no sense of asking for trouble if not necessary. If my requirements are within the stock output, I guess I will go with  a GW for backup.

I'm familiar with doing the required work on cheap knockoff parts before they are reliable meathead, been doing it for years...

The alternator went back in much easier than it came out, I think I have my method worked out.

These brushes may have a bit of life in them CA, but compared with new, they look like a worn out tire to me.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Honda-31101-MN5-005-Brush-NOS/252479274050?epid=1629663115&hash=item3ac8effc42:g:tBsAAOSw4Upclw-N:sc:USPSFirstClass!72916!US!-1

Brushes are ordered and the rear bearing is good but I may replace it anyhow as it is exposed to all that carbon dust and it doesn't take much of a breach to allow those superfine particles to enter, good idea. I should have measured it while it was apart, do you have the NAPA part number handy?

Just looking at the pictures of his tools and parts on his website is enough to give me confidence in his work Mike.

good read http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,92595.40.html

Napa #6000-2RSJ  it is an SKF bearing designed for alternator service.