Hi all! My first post. I'm wondering if the fat lady has sung?

[yrunvs]

Was out riding with a friend last weekend and ended up at a guys garage and there sat a carbureted Valkyrie and wooo's me I haven't quit thinking about it since. I ride a 2015 EFI Triumph Thruxton now and previously I had a carbed 2005 Triumph Thruxton. I'm and older fellow and love the naked older school  bikes with low tech and easy DIY maintenance. I may have to get one of these Valkyrie's. Here's a local one on CL....  https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/mcy/d/lakeville-honda-valkyrie-mint-condition/7117872004.html

and this one...  https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ank/mcy/d/north-branch-2003-honda-valkyrie/7119011582.html

What are the must ask questions?  Thanks for any responses.

[Bighead]

Pass on # 1 price a tad steep. And welcome
To
The madness.

[Hook#3287]

Either of those bikes have nothing for miles.

As long as they start is all I'd care about.

Everything else I can fix.

Valks are definitely DIY fixers, as you won't find many mechs that can work on them.

Welcome to the board and I hope you find the one you're looking for.

[old2soon]

        There is a Valkyrie currently on our classifieds for $3000.00 in Florida. Welcome to our sand box. My Brother-daprez-will have a Blue and Silver I/S for sale soon? He's located up North West of Chicago. If you are interested in his I/S reply here and I'll get hold of him. Again-Welcome. RIDE SAFE.

[yrunvs]

Thanks. About the only thing I don't work on is new tire installation I assume any Honda dealership will do those no problem right?
Thanks for heads up on Valks for sale but if I purchase it will be local as I really do like to inspect purchases in the flesh.

[yrunvs]

Pass on # 1 price a tad steep. And welcome
To
The madness.

Thanks I agree I'll keep an eye on it to see if he comes down in price that appears to be a well kept sharp cycle.

[Hook#3287]

Thanks. About the only thing I don't work on is new tire installation I assume any Honda dealership will do those no problem right?
Thanks for heads up on Valks for sale but if I purchase it will be local as I really do like to inspect purchases in the flesh.

The front tire is no issue, but the back needs special attention.

There is much to learn about the drive train and reinstall sequence that needs consideration.

Look for "Rear end service by ChrisJ" under TechTips in the Shoptalk section.

Good advice on the correct procedure to follow.

You'll need to be sure whoever does it is aware.

[Jess from VA]

Welcome. 

Go to our Shoptalk section (including the rear end service link above) and peruse the links related to a new/used purchase.

The most common issue is going to be the bike sitting (for long periods) with ethanol polluted gas in the carbs.  And learn to read the production dates on tires (for age, not wear).

Always ask if the seller has kept any service records (to review), a personal maintenance record, a shop manual.

There are many good Valks for sale nationwide for great prices, and it's worth your time to be picky, look for options, add-ons, good seats, etc, and to consider traveling a certain distance to get the best bike for you.  I like (OE) saddlebags for carrying my gear. 

People on here can be very helpful, and may go look at one for you if it's near them.  Just ask.

[Chrisj CMA]

        There is a Valkyrie currently on our classifieds for $3000.00 in Florida. Welcome to our sand box. My Brother-daprez-will have a Blue and Silver I/S for sale soon? He's located up North West of Chicago. If you are interested in his I/S reply here and I'll get hold of him. Again-Welcome. RIDE SAFE.

I am familiar with that bike. It’s worth more than he’s asking. The carbs were recently cleaned at the dealer $600. Then he let it sit fir a few weeks. A strong dose of B12 should revive it

[wingrider02]

Thanks. About the only thing I don't work on is new tire installation I assume any Honda dealership will do those no problem right?
Thanks for heads up on Valks for sale but if I purchase it will be local as I really do like to inspect purchases in the flesh.

Where abouts are you located?  Being the Minneapolis CL is local to you, you are probably close to me (and another member). If you need help with the tires, there is a good fella for that down in Spring Lake Park.

[old2soon]

        There ARE many knowledgeable Valkyrie wise on this board that are Willing to help evaluate any Valkyrie for you. After they check it out for you a very simple question asked of them would be-would you purchase that Valkyrie and if yes at what price would be fair? Pick an area in the U S of A and chances are there id a member close or fairly close lookin fer an excuse to Ride.  And if you haven't yet put yer location in yer profile PLEASE!  RIDE SAFE.

[Fazer]

yrunvs--congratulations.  You will love the Valk!  Plenty of help on this board with anything you need.  Did I mention you will love the Valk!  Jeff (ChisJ) says he is familiar with this bike.  He is one of the voices on the forum that you should listen to.  If he says it's a good buy then I would not hesitate.

[yrunvs]

Thanks. About the only thing I don't work on is new tire installation I assume any Honda dealership will do those no problem right?
Thanks for heads up on Valks for sale but if I purchase it will be local as I really do like to inspect purchases in the flesh.

Where abouts are you located?  Being the Minneapolis CL is local to you, you are probably close to me (and another member). If you need help with the tires, there is a good fella for that down in Spring Lake Park.

Thanks. I live in Prior Lake Mn. If I purchase I'll reach out to you for the tire guy you mentioned in SLP.

[yrunvs]

Thanks for the reply's all. I will do my homework searching all the knowledge on this board and other places. I'll keep you posted if I make a move on a Valk.

[yrunvs]

okay another question....since the Valkyrie was only a 6 year run 1997-2003 is there more desirable year models or are they all the same? Sometimes a first year run has a few niggles and I was just wondering if  that was the case here?

[Hook#3287]

All Valkyries are awesome.

Pretty much the same all years.

The wheels were updated at some point to a polished one,  maybe 2000 models?

The OEM seats were updated around that time also.

Most owners updated the seats to aftermarket brands of their liking.

There's some claims the 97 model was faster.

The major differences are the different models, Standard, Tourer or Interstate and the different colors available depending on year.

[The emperor has no clothes]

okay another question....since the Valkyrie was only a 6 year run 1997-2003 is there more desirable year models or are they all the same? Sometimes a first year run has a few niggles and I was just wondering if  that was the case here?

As Hook said, the major differences are the 3 models. If you don't expect much in the way of long distance traveling, a '01-'03 Standard would be a good choice. The polished, clearcoated wheels and pumpkin are nice. If you expect much in the way of 2up distance traveling, the Interstates are the way to go.

[yrunvs]

I sort have eliminated the Interstate from the mix. I just don't need or want the extra's on it.

[Jess from VA]

The '97 (first year) has a few wheel and other differences that are not purely interchangeable with all the other year models, which are (Interstate differences aside).  It was a bit faster with it's carb/timing/ and maybe ignition than all other years, but not enough to chase one. 

I'd look for a Tourer (or a Standard made into a Tourer) with the OE bags and mount guards (which hold the bike up off it's side in a drop or fall), and big shield with OE shield hardware, of any year.  Though later year polished wheels are plus.

I spent years polishing and buffing out my non polished wheels (on two Interstates), but now I am satisfied with battleship grey (but clean and not pitted) wheels on the back.  The fronts are easy to polish up.  The bags do a nice job of hiding the battleship gray back wheels (except on the kickstand).   

[Ramie]

I sort have eliminated the Interstate from the mix. I just don't need or want the extra's on it.

Welcome, I just saw this one in maplewood https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/mcy/d/saint-paul-2000-honda-valkyrie-tourer/7119051698.html
It looks like a Standard with a tourer shield not a tourer unless he has the bags and mounting hardware, but it looks in decent shape and an acceptable price.  If you want bags here's a nice looking tourer in your area. https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/mcy/d/lakeville-1997-honda-1500cc-valkyrie/7118416727.html

Rick

[yrunvs]

Yea I've been eyeing those out. I am still trying to get past the idea that 45,000 miles is considered low mileage. Is it?

[wingrider02]

Yep

[yrunvs]

The red and white one is nice with those hard bags but I'm wondering if it's to sexy for me and I should stick with black? But I do like that red and white. So, what is considered higher mileage for these bikes?
I believe the carbs on these bikes are CV brand and I believe those were on my 2005 Triumph Thruxton so I have plenty of experience with them.

[Challenger]

Yea I've been eyeing those out. I am still trying to get past the idea that 45,000 miles is considered low mileage. Is it?

Check here, 11 pages worth
 http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,51704.0.html

[Jess from VA]

Yea I've been eyeing those out. I am still trying to get past the idea that 45,000 miles is considered low mileage. Is it?

Yes, it's low miles.  Our longest rider is somewhere north of 600K.

Of course, decent maintenance is always something you look for.  And with decent maintenance, any Valk out there will outlive you.

Also, when I suggested looking for a Tourer, or Std turned into a Tourer, an OE shield and hardware is nice, but there's plenty of other good aftermarket shields out there.  It's the OE bags and mounts that I highly recommend. 

[yrunvs]

Another member pointed out something to me that I hadn't thought of and that is the rubber and plastics on a 20 year old bike getting brittle and sometimes hard to find. How much should that influence a purchase of a 20 year old bike and where does one pick up hoses and parts when needed for these bikes?

[Hook#3287]

Another member pointed out something to me that I hadn't thought of and that is the rubber and plastics on a 20 year old bike getting brittle and sometimes hard to find. How much should that influence a purchase of a 20 year old bike and where does one pick up hoses and parts when needed for these bikes?

Just like with any machine, it all depends on how it was stored and taken care of.

My original 99 Tourer has 119K and looks and rides like new.

But, she's been desmogged, so much of the hose issue has gone away.

I've not replaced any plastic, but did swap out the Alt cover a few years back.

I replaced the rubber on the shift lever before I put a Toe/Heal shifter on.

You can still find a lot of the OEM parts new and almost everything is available used on Ebay.

Any 20 year old vehicle is going to need some attention, but if your into working on your bike, you can't go wrong with any Valk.

[Ramie]

Another member pointed out something to me that I hadn't thought of and that is the rubber and plastics on a 20 year old bike getting brittle and sometimes hard to find. How much should that influence a purchase of a 20 year old bike and where does one pick up hoses and parts when needed for these bikes?

A lot of the rubber in hoses, seals, bushings etc is still used on bikes today or are common autopart items.   Most of the plastic, bags, covers etc are ABS and you'll find a lot of threads here of people just repairing them and repainting.  New replacement windshield plastic is still sold and there are a lot of ways to modernize the electronics on the beasts. 45k is nothing as far as miles go.

[westsidevalk]

Since they made about three times as many tourers as standards, it was not uncommon for folks to buy the aftermarket hardbags, OEM and aftermarket, and Windshield, OEM and aftermarket, to turn a standard into a tourer.
This is a great idea, but for the prospective buyer there  is a very quick way to tell if it is a factory tourer or a standard.    The VIN number for a factory  standard will have  "SC340"  in it and a a factory tourer will have " SC343"   ( in california models the last digit will be one number higher).
I have seen folks list standards as tourers, asking the premium associated with a factory tourer.
In addition their is a great resource here in the folks in this board.
I don't have any plans to ever sell my Valk. Ever.
They only made an estimated 1,200  Tourers in 1999. The Sedona Red and Pearl Ivory combination was offered on the  Tourer for 1998 and 1999 only.  This Valk was the 38th bike off the line in this particular combination for this year.  
 The most significant thing I have done to her was install Two Brothers Six into Six Turnout Pipes. She runs and sounds absolutely amazing.
 All Valks are created equal but some are more equal than others.


Here  are a few more nice words:

https://ridermagazine.com/2016/10/25/25-best-motorcycles-of-the-past-25-years/1997-honda-valkyrie-tourer-1999/

http://www.angelfire.com/nj3/terminalvalkocity/motorsport_report.html

[yrunvs]

Well I've spent a whole rainy day (Sunday) reading multiple threads about hydro-lock and the Valkyrie. Needless to say I'm a little disheartened as I live "up north" near MPLS and our non-riding season is about 4-5 months. On my last carbed bike I dumped in some Seafoam drained the fuel bowls and turned off the petcock and plugged it in for a long winters nap. But it sounds like that might not be sufficient with these bikes. Oh, the humanity!

[Jess from VA]

Assuming you have a properly functioning petcock (on a Valk) (and that is something that always bears looking at) you really should have no worry with hydrolock.

Your prior practice for bike winterization will be just fine, except fill the tank with non-ethanol polluted fuel (and marine grade Stabil).  And turn the petcock off, whenever not riding.  

I've been doing this for years on two Valks, and I've never had a carb gum up problem.

But both my bikes have had slightly torn petcock diaphragms, and both were rebuilt with the factory kit.

Buy one, or two:  https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/16953-MBZ-B51

The factory valk petcock is one of the few weak links on these bikes.

For hydrolock, you need both a leaking petcock, AND a leaking/malfunctioning carburetor.

[yrunvs]

Thanks. I forgot to mention most of our gas stations have a non-ethanol option and that's all I run in my bikes I assume running non-ethanol in the Valk is okay. I see some folks switch out the oem for a Pingle petcock.

[Jess from VA]

ALL carburetors do better without corn pollution.  I only run pure gas in my bikes, unless traveling and have no choice. 

Many have switched to a Pingle.  More have not (which is fine so long as you keep an eye on it and repair it if necessary)

[gordonv]

Well I've spent a whole rainy day (Sunday) reading multiple threads about hydro-lock and the Valkyrie. Needless to say I'm a little disheartened as I live "up north" near MPLS and our non-riding season is about 4-5 months.

My IS petcock would never turn off the fuel, and I left it this way for over a year. I had no fear of the hydro lock. Why? Because I knew what one was, and the sound of one, so I had no fear of damage from one. You have to have (usually) 2 issues wrong with your fuel system, before a hydro lock can happen. As long as I never hit the starter a second time after hearing that Thunk sound, I would be fine.

My bike is parked anywhere from 4-8 months. Marine Stabil for the winter, and Berryman's B-12 with the first fresh tank of gas.

After removing my tank last year, I found nothing wrong with my petcock, and now it seems to work fine. No known reason why there was a problem, or how it fixed itself.

[Jess from VA]

When turning the OE petcock, you cannot see, but with no gloves can barely feel the little internal detent ball inside slip into place (snick).  Switching from Off to Run to Reserve that little detent ball needs to be snicked into the detent for the switch to be properly in place.

Most of the time, just turning the lever to the correct position is fine.  But when turning it off, it's good to feel it go into position.

[yrunvs]

Well I sent an email to this guy and we'll see where it goes. Any advise when/if I go look at it?

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/mcy/d/saint-paul-2000-honda-valkyrie-tourer/7119051698.html

[gordonv]

Well I sent an email to this guy and we'll see where it goes. Any advise when/if I go look at it?

https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/ram/mcy/d/saint-paul-2000-honda-valkyrie-tourer/7119051698.html

Ask for picture of the VIN. That is not a Tourer, there is no hard bags.

It's either a Standard with a Tourer windshield added, or a Tourer without the hard saddle bags. Nothing is said that the bags and hardware are there. They will cost $1000 more to add it on.

[yrunvs]

I sort of figured the bags didn't come with. What part of the VIN designates a standard vs a tourer?
Where can one get oem bags?

[ridingron]

... What part of the VIN designates a standard vs a tourer?

..., but for the prospective buyer there  is a very quick way to tell if it is a factory tourer or a standard.    The VIN number for a factory  standard will have  "SC340"  in it and a a factory tourer will have " SC343"   ( in california models the last digit will be one number higher).
I have seen folks list standards as tourers, asking the premium associated with a factory tourer.


Where can one get oem bags?

Ebay, facebook, classifieds or anywhere you buy used motorcycle parts. They can be a tad expensive. Cheaper to get them with the bike.

[yrunvs]

Thanks. I'll be checking the VIN. I'll keep the cost of bags in mind whilst negotiating.