Big Kahuna
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« on: August 05, 2020, 12:14:00 PM » |
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Hey Folks I am putting my 97 valk on the road . My original motor had tranny problems so i purchased a 2nd hand motor from Pinwall cycle.every thing sat for about 10 years now i have the time to swap them. my problem is i need new floats because mine bring the level up above the bowl flange. I know this because i used the clear hose trick to determine the fuel level.My Question is .....can the float vales be heated or warmed up and adjusted.any help or advisement would be appreciated. I have found new ones in the US but because of the covid they will not ship to canada.i have some coming from Japan but it will be awhile. Thanks
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Ricky-D
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« Reply #2 on: August 05, 2020, 12:50:15 PM » |
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haha, trying to look at and adjust the float level tells me you haven't consulted the shop manual for the Valkyrie.
That's okay because there are many that operate in the same identical way.
Some have even went out and purchased new parts thinking what's there, is lost it's usefulness.
It's that old mentality of automotive back yard engineering which they are still operating under.
The only question in my mind is: How much will you spend before you smarten up, and get, and consult, the shop manual.
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2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
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Madmike
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« Reply #3 on: August 05, 2020, 01:41:13 PM » |
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Hey Folks I am putting my 97 valk on the road . My original motor had tranny problems so i purchased a 2nd hand motor from Pinwall cycle.every thing sat for about 10 years now i have the time to swap them. my problem is i need new floats because mine bring the level up above the bowl flange. I know this because i used the clear hose trick to determine the fuel level.My Question is .....can the float vales be heated or warmed up and adjusted.any help or advisement would be appreciated. I have found new ones in the US but because of the covid they will not ship to canada.i have some coming from Japan but it will be awhile. Thanks
Sounds like the float valves are not seating to me as the floats are not adjustable. If you follow the link below it is amazon.com search the part #118-8955 on amazon.ca and there are some sources,not sure how they are for reliability so you may want to ask questions before purchasing.
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« Last Edit: August 05, 2020, 03:45:41 PM by Madmike »
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98valk
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« Reply #4 on: August 05, 2020, 03:05:47 PM » |
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As stated they are not adjustable common for honda carbs, this gives consistent air fuel tuning since float level has a lot to do with it. unless the floats sink in a bowl of water they do not need replacement. the needles sealing points might have dried out but not normal since they are Buna-N material and if they were inside the carbs and not in sunlight they should be good. I don't know about your tube test but remember the carbs sit on an angle once installed. so they can't be bench tested unless they are attached to the intake manifolds which would have to be bolted to a flat surface.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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Timbox
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« Reply #5 on: August 05, 2020, 03:44:01 PM » |
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Big Kahuna Looking that the floats you will see the normal adjustment tab is plastic and can't be adjusted. On other makes and models you can bend that little tab and do what is called a "wet set" to see what the fuel level is in the bowl. Having the correct shut off jet in there, making sure they are all the same length and for the 97 Valkyrie. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J8gXnaJr2J0This guys vids is who I took the tech advice from. His carb vids are great and my 97 runs great.
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97 Valkyrie 2007 Bandit 1250S Have owned too many bikes to list Retired AF (Communications)
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hubcapsc
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Posts: 16772
upstate
South Carolina
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« Reply #6 on: August 05, 2020, 03:44:11 PM » |
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Keep posting and checking back, there's lots of nice knowledgeable people here  ... what you are doing is interesting and how you resolve it will be a good post... -Mike
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Madmike
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« Reply #7 on: August 05, 2020, 04:44:49 PM » |
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Hey Folks I am putting my 97 valk on the road . My original motor had tranny problems so i purchased a 2nd hand motor from Pinwall cycle.every thing sat for about 10 years now i have the time to swap them. my problem is i need new floats because mine bring the level up above the bowl flange. I know this because i used the clear hose trick to determine the fuel level.My Question is .....can the float vales be heated or warmed up and adjusted.any help or advisement would be appreciated. I have found new ones in the US but because of the covid they will not ship to canada.i have some coming from Japan but it will be awhile. Thanks
Transmission problem??? Hydrolock?? Yoou can check to see if the needle valves are sealing when the floats come up against them with the carbs either on or off the engine. You need to rig a fuel supply that is not running throughthe factory petcock or open the petcock with a vacuum supply to allow fuel to run from the tank to the carbs. Elevate the tank (put it on a ladder beside the bike) so that it has more head and run a line from the petcock to the fuel rail or couple back in to the normal fuel supply hose with a coupler. Or if the carbs are off the bike set the assembly on the floor and use an elevated fuel supply to run fuel down to them. If on the bike then remove the air tubes going down from the carbs to the cylinders and if any of the needles are not sealing you will see gas dribbling out of the carb throats. it may be a good time to install a electric shutoff that turns off with the ignition to positively shut off the fuel when the bike is shut off.
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Big Kahuna
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« Reply #8 on: August 06, 2020, 10:10:44 AM » |
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Wow . thank you all for your advice. nice to see the help. I dont have the shop manual . i have the sevice manual so maybe the shop manual ,as RickyD points out would be better. The service manual wants a setting 0f 13.7 mm , mine are 15mm. they do not leak on the bench when hooked up to a temporary fuel line. i understand the manual says they are non adjustable. the clear line hooked up from the drain screw is a very basic sight glass system to indicate the level of the fuel inside the bowl. however basic this is, it shows the level is way above the float bowl flange but is sealing ,but way to high, so when the bike is on its side stand they flow . I found this interesting vid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QwJdnA5l8cQ Moody puts a small spring on the valve to assist the float. Like i said on my first post i have the floats on order but they will be a while so my question was, has anyone firgured out anyway to adjust the non adjustable . we all know that neccessity is the mother of invention so i was hoping someone might have discovered a solution. thanks for all your help.I will keep you posted. Madmike shows a cr address.nice to know of another local valk it would be nice to tag up sometime.
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« Last Edit: August 06, 2020, 10:26:14 AM by Big Kahuna »
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98valk
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« Reply #9 on: August 06, 2020, 10:42:27 AM » |
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Wow . thank you all for your advice. nice to see the help. I dont have the shop manual . i have the sevice manual so maybe the shop manual ,as RickyD points out would be better. The service manual wants a setting 0f 13.7 mm , mine are 15mm. they do not leak on the bench when hooked up to a temporary fuel line. i understand the manual says they are non adjustable. the clear line hooked up from the drain screw is a very basic sight glass system to indicate the level of the fuel inside the bowl. however basic this is, it shows the level is way above the float bowl flange but is sealing ,but way to high, so when the bike is on its side stand they flow . I found this interesting vid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QwJdnA5l8cQ Moody puts a small spring on the valve to assist the float. Like i said on my first post i have the floats on order but they will be a while so my question was, has anyone firgured out anyway to adjust the non adjustable . we all know that neccessity is the mother of invention so i was hoping someone might have discovered a solution. thanks for all your help.I will keep you posted. Hubcapsc shows a cr address.nice to know of another local valk it would be nice to tag up sometime. unless u are an expert carb tuner with correct bench equipement u don't want to adjust non-adjustable floats. the height affects air/fuel ratio and the other carb circuits. factory settings are based on hr upon hrs of dyno testing. http://www.factorypro.com/tech/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,lower_rpm_engines.htmlmoody is 100% wrong in that vid. springs have nothing to do with it.  the raised metal area around the pin. The float pushes against the raised metal area of the needle thereby sealing the needle into the seat. free download of manual http://www.valkyrienorway.com/download.htmlsee last page of posts about measuring float levels by Leathel, however he had leaking needles. http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,93751.40.html
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« Last Edit: August 07, 2020, 05:11:57 AM by 98valk »
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed 1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other." John Adams 10/11/1798
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Madmike
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« Reply #10 on: August 06, 2020, 11:49:40 AM » |
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Wow . thank you all for your advice. nice to see the help. I dont have the shop manual . i have the sevice manual so maybe the shop manual ,as RickyD points out would be better. The service manual wants a setting 0f 13.7 mm , mine are 15mm. they do not leak on the bench when hooked up to a temporary fuel line. i understand the manual says they are non adjustable. the clear line hooked up from the drain screw is a very basic sight glass system to indicate the level of the fuel inside the bowl. however basic this is, it shows the level is way above the float bowl flange but is sealing ,but way to high, so when the bike is on its side stand they flow . I found this interesting vid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QwJdnA5l8cQ Moody puts a small spring on the valve to assist the float. Like i said on my first post i have the floats on order but they will be a while so my question was, has anyone firgured out anyway to adjust the non adjustable . we all know that neccessity is the mother of invention so i was hoping someone might have discovered a solution. thanks for all your help.I will keep you posted. Madmike shows a cr address.nice to know of another local valk it would be nice to tag up sometime. Are you in Campbell River?? There are a few local Valks, I met a couple at Home HW that had two bikes they purchased in the past year. There are a few others around and several on the island that have posted in this group. I live in Painter-Barclay a couple of blocks from Painters Lodge, retired and generally available for helping out if you need or want a hand with anything. I found a Canadian supplier for the electric shutoff valve if you are interested, they have an outlet in Nanaimo. TWO Five OH two oh THree seven seven Seven four
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« Last Edit: August 06, 2020, 11:52:58 AM by Madmike »
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Big Kahuna
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« Reply #11 on: August 06, 2020, 01:27:16 PM » |
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Yes oyster river area. i will try and give you a call this weekend
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gordonv
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Posts: 5760
VRCC # 31419
Richmond BC
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« Reply #12 on: August 06, 2020, 04:17:19 PM » |
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Welcome to the forum.
You can add your location to your profile, easier to find you.
We are having out BC Rally next month.
As for the parts, do you have a local dealer? I go to mine with the prices from online/USA and negotiate the price. I usually end up buying locally then, and get them within 1-2 weeks, for not much more than out of the US, and I cross the border and pick them up from a mail house, something a little far for you to do.
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1999 Black with custom paint IS  
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Madmike
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« Reply #13 on: August 06, 2020, 08:28:54 PM » |
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Yes oyster river area. i will try and give you a call this weekend
Great, enjoy your Friday. I get some stuff from Courtenay Motorsports and some more generic Honda stuff from Boatland as they are 2 minutes from the house. I use this parts page as it gives Canadian prices https://www.bike-parts-honda.ca/Courtenaty ordered me a seat latch cable about 10 days ago, not available in Cdn warehouse, will be here by the 15th of August, price is the same as the price in the fiche from Honda Canada.
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« Last Edit: August 06, 2020, 08:35:05 PM by Madmike »
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Big Kahuna
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« Reply #14 on: September 08, 2020, 11:53:18 AM » |
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Just an update on my valk .I went with the K&L valves and made a bigg difference .No leaking fuel and using the sight glass i can see my level dropped to the top of the flange so they are not over flowing. Flashed right up and runs great...  Then I pulled the clutch in and all it would do is grind..  ..I am not that familiar with the clutch operation.I have bled the system. the lever feels like my vtx enough pressure. I have determined that this is a 2003 replacement engine and not the 1997 .So if anyone has any suggestions as to my next step, it would be greatly appreciated.I do know the push pin on the 2003 is about 1 inch long and the 1997 push pin is about 2 1/2 inches long.Does anyone know if the slave for the 2003 is different,maybe a longer stroke ? Is it possible the plates are stuck together? Thanks for anyhelp you could give i searched the form but have seen this particular issue.
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Big Kahuna
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« Reply #16 on: September 16, 2020, 09:45:45 AM » |
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Thanks mike Im thinking that part should be fine, there is no way the pin from the 97 will fit in the 2003. I believe that the plates are stuck together. Im hoping it can be done WITH the motor in. the manual says it can Any heads ups from anyone regarding clutch removal would be appreciated. Thanks
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