What did I do wrong... front brakes?

[Zanderk98]

Hi all -

Pulled the front wheel off this past weekend to clean & polish the front the rim on my "new" '99 Interstate.  Wheel removal was pretty easy.  Biggest problem was breaking loose the phillips screw that holds the speedo cable.

After my work was done, I reassembled everything.  Followed same procedure I've done before on other bikes.  Reinstalled the the brake calipers...  The right side went on perfectly.  The left side is "wrong" for some reason.  Part of the left caliper makes a 'ticking' sound when I spin the wheel by hand.  Appears the rivets that assemble the brake rotor itself are contacting the caliper bracket.

How can 1 side by perfect & the other so far off?  I literally touched nothing.  Both calipers simply hung overnight while thew wheel was off.  What do I do to correct.  This is maddening as it seems so simple I must be missing something.

[Hook#3287]

http://www.norwayvalkryie.com/download

There's a specific process to follow when installing the front wheel.

You should be able to locate in the service manual.

[Hook#3287]

Opps, the website isn't responding, may someone has a new link or has the time to cut and past it.

I'll check in later and do it if no one else does.

[Chrisj CMA]

Your left (clutch side) fork is positioned too close to the wheel. Loosen those pinch bolts and move the fork out until it’s totally flush with the end of the axle. Right now your axle is sticking out just a bit from the fork.

One good way is just loosen those clutch side pinch bolts and dive the front end by sitting on the bike and rolling forward a bit then brake hard with front brakes. That’s how the manual says to set the fork where it needs to be. Flush with the axle head then retighten the pinch bolts.

[Bagger John - #3785]

Opps, the website isn't responding, may someone has a new link or has the time to cut and past it.

I'll check in later and do it if no one else does.

http://valkyrienorway.com/download.html

[John Schmidt]

Keep in mind, the Valk isn't "like other bikes" and has its own methods and procedures for even the most mundane projects. I'd use Chrisj's suggestion.

[Zanderk98]

Thanks everyone...  I guess doing this out of sequence could pull the left (clutch lever side) fork in too far.  I'll pull the calipers off again tonight after work.  Try to do this again by the book & see what happens.  The link showed that even when done correctly, there's only 0.030" clearance (minimum) between the rotor & caliper bracket.

Also eagerly awaiting a parts shipment from Ron Ayers...  anyone know how long it takes them to ship?  Never ordered from them before but they were recommend by someone on this forum.  Everything I wanted was in stock (as far as I know) and it's been about a week & I've yet to get anything telling me my order shipped.

[..]

Thanks everyone...  I guess doing this out of sequence could pull the left (clutch lever side) fork in too far.  I'll pull the calipers off again tonight after work.  Try to do this again by the book & see what happens.  The link showed that even when done correctly, there's only 0.030" clearance (minimum) between the rotor & caliper bracket.

Also eagerly awaiting a parts shipment from Ron Ayers...  anyone know how long it takes them to ship?  Never ordered from them before but they were recommend by someone on this forum.  Everything I wanted was in stock (as far as I know) and it's been about a week & I've yet to get anything telling me my order shipped.

I don't think you need to remove the calipers. Just use the correct sequence to tighten the pinch bolts.

I've \had the same problem and found tapping the flush end of the axle with a rubber mallet a couple of times helped push the axle in all the way.

[Chrisj CMA]

Thanks everyone...  I guess doing this out of sequence could pull the left (clutch lever side) fork in too far.  I'll pull the calipers off again tonight after work.  Try to do this again by the book & see what happens.  The link showed that even when done correctly, there's only 0.030" clearance (minimum) between the rotor & caliper bracket.

Also eagerly awaiting a parts shipment from Ron Ayers...  anyone know how long it takes them to ship?  Never ordered from them before but they were recommend by someone on this forum.  Everything I wanted was in stock (as far as I know) and it's been about a week & I've yet to get anything telling me my order shipped.

It’s not that you did anything out of sequence. You just didn’t properly position the left fork. It’s a simple thing. Move it over to where it belongs and it will be good

[Chrisj CMA]

Thanks everyone...  I guess doing this out of sequence could pull the left (clutch lever side) fork in too far.  I'll pull the calipers off again tonight after work.  Try to do this again by the book & see what happens.  The link showed that even when done correctly, there's only 0.030" clearance (minimum) between the rotor & caliper bracket.

Also eagerly awaiting a parts shipment from Ron Ayers...  anyone know how long it takes them to ship?  Never ordered from them before but they were recommend by someone on this forum.  Everything I wanted was in stock (as far as I know) and it's been about a week & I've yet to get anything telling me my order shipped.

I don't think you need to remove the calipers. Just use the correct sequence to tighten the pinch bolts.

I've \had the same problem and found tapping the flush end of the axle with a rubber mallet a couple of times helped push the axle in all the way.

Once the axle bolt on the right side is torqued the axle is ALL the way in. It’s not going to move no matter how hard you whack it. The only thing that can move at this point is the left fork and it needs to move out a bit. Most axles even have an alignment groove scribed into the axle just inside where the inside edge of the fork should be. I’ll bet that groove becomes visible as you move the fork outward.

[WintrSol]

Just FYI, that is NOT a Phillip's head screw, and a Phillip's screwdriver will damage it. You need to get a set of JIS-type screwdrivers to work on bikes with Japanese (or other east Asian) parts. Vessel is a good brand that you can get on line.

[..]

Thanks everyone...  I guess doing this out of sequence could pull the left (clutch lever side) fork in too far.  I'll pull the calipers off again tonight after work.  Try to do this again by the book & see what happens.  The link showed that even when done correctly, there's only 0.030" clearance (minimum) between the rotor & caliper bracket.

Also eagerly awaiting a parts shipment from Ron Ayers...  anyone know how long it takes them to ship?  Never ordered from them before but they were recommend by someone on this forum.  Everything I wanted was in stock (as far as I know) and it's been about a week & I've yet to get anything telling me my order shipped.

I don't think you need to remove the calipers. Just use the correct sequence to tighten the pinch bolts.

I've \had the same problem and found tapping the flush end of the axle with a rubber mallet a couple of times helped push the axle in all the way.

Once the axle bolt on the right side is torqued the axle is ALL the way in. It’s not going to move no matter how hard you whack it. The only thing that can move at this point is the left fork and it needs to move out a bit. Most axles even have an alignment groove scribed into the axle just inside where the inside edge of the fork should be. I’ll bet that groove becomes visible as you move the fork outward.

I tapped it before torquing up the right side. Seemed to fix it for me once I'd loosened everything upon hearing the click click click.

Maybe me re tightening the right side was the cure and not the mallet tap???

[Chrisj CMA]

Thanks everyone...  I guess doing this out of sequence could pull the left (clutch lever side) fork in too far.  I'll pull the calipers off again tonight after work.  Try to do this again by the book & see what happens.  The link showed that even when done correctly, there's only 0.030" clearance (minimum) between the rotor & caliper bracket.

Also eagerly awaiting a parts shipment from Ron Ayers...  anyone know how long it takes them to ship?  Never ordered from them before but they were recommend by someone on this forum.  Everything I wanted was in stock (as far as I know) and it's been about a week & I've yet to get anything telling me my order shipped.

I don't think you need to remove the calipers. Just use the correct sequence to tighten the pinch bolts.

I've \had the same problem and found tapping the flush end of the axle with a rubber mallet a couple of times helped push the axle in all the way.

Once the axle bolt on the right side is torqued the axle is ALL the way in. It’s not going to move no matter how hard you whack it. The only thing that can move at this point is the left fork and it needs to move out a bit. Most axles even have an alignment groove scribed into the axle just inside where the inside edge of the fork should be. I’ll bet that groove becomes visible as you move the fork outward.

I tapped it before torquing up the right side. Seemed to fix it for me once I'd loosened everything upon hearing the click click click.

Maybe me re tightening the right side was the cure and not the mallet tap???

Probably beating the crap out of it knocked the left fork into place. It does have a natural memory of being in the right place.

[..]

Thanks everyone...  I guess doing this out of sequence could pull the left (clutch lever side) fork in too far.  I'll pull the calipers off again tonight after work.  Try to do this again by the book & see what happens.  The link showed that even when done correctly, there's only 0.030" clearance (minimum) between the rotor & caliper bracket.

Also eagerly awaiting a parts shipment from Ron Ayers...  anyone know how long it takes them to ship?  Never ordered from them before but they were recommend by someone on this forum.  Everything I wanted was in stock (as far as I know) and it's been about a week & I've yet to get anything telling me my order shipped.

I don't think you need to remove the calipers. Just use the correct sequence to tighten the pinch bolts.

I've \had the same problem and found tapping the flush end of the axle with a rubber mallet a couple of times helped push the axle in all the way.

Once the axle bolt on the right side is torqued the axle is ALL the way in. It’s not going to move no matter how hard you whack it. The only thing that can move at this point is the left fork and it needs to move out a bit. Most axles even have an alignment groove scribed into the axle just inside where the inside edge of the fork should be. I’ll bet that groove becomes visible as you move the fork outward.

I tapped it before torquing up the right side. Seemed to fix it for me once I'd loosened everything upon hearing the click click click.

Maybe me re tightening the right side was the cure and not the mallet tap???

Probably beating the crap out of it knocked the left fork into place. It does have a natural memory of being in the right place.

No beaty, beaty.

Only tappy, tappy.   

[Zanderk98]

Sorry folks, no update on my issue.  Work has been so crazy recently (can't get enough people to work these days it seems) that it was too late & I was just to exhausted to get back out in the garage last night.  I did take the suggestion to finally order  set of JIS screwdrivers & a new 1/2" dive 16mm hex socket.  I've struggled several times in the past with JIS screws on dirt bikes & never crossed my mind that the screw on the speedo unit would be JIS.

I  think following the procedure 'by the book' with the guidance of everyone here will help a lot.  I'll also use the "tap" method with a brass or dead-blow hammer as I want to be gentle here.  I'm usually not one who resorts to the BFH (big f*n hammer) method until all else fails.  This is a stupid minor issue but hopefully this thread helps others going forward.   

[RonW]

[Reinstalled the the brake calipers...  The right side went on perfectly.  The left side is "wrong" for some reason.  Part of the left caliper makes a 'ticking' sound when I spin the wheel by hand. 
Appears the rivets that assemble the brake rotor itself are contacting the caliper bracket.]

• How can 1 side by perfect & the other so far off? This is maddening as it seems so simple I must be missing something.

This is the reference mark they were talking about (left axle). Originally, noted by
Rio Wil. Some axle don't have them. It's suppose to be there for factory assembly or sumpthin.

[DeathWishBikerDude]

I just use a soft flat piece of wood to pry against the fork tubes to get the correct clearance and spin the wheel until everything functions properly..then tighten everything up.

[Jaskin71]

Hi all,
Just finished the same job and have followed this advice.
Working really well and it all make sense.

https://youtu.be/DYHV78tWs1c

Take care. Ride safe.
Jiri

[Zanderk98]

UPDATE -

Finally got a few minutes back in the garage to address this issue...  The "fix" was super easy.  With bike just sitting on side stand, I loosened the pinch bolts on left side (speedo side).  I used my small dead blow hammer to give it the softest tap possible on the left side.  When I did the axle instantly 'popped' inward approx 1/8" due to the pressure from the forks.  It appears everything instantly self-aligned. 

As someone suggested, once the axle was fully seated, I can see the reference mark previously mentioned in this thread.  It looks like groove where a C-clip/snap ring should mount.  I didn't pull out my feeler shims to actually measure but the location where the left brake caliper mount was hitting the brake rotor rivets now has an estimated .060-.100" clearance as it should, or at least greatly exceeds the .030" clearance the Clymer manual lists as the minimum required clearance.

To ensure all was well, I pulled the bike in & up on my stand.  Took the wheel off & did the whole front wheel install again to ensure I did it correctly, everything lines up as it should, and all bolts torqued to spec.  Live & learn...

I'll be on to more maintenance items this weekend as my Ron Ayers parts order finally arrived.  I plan to do oil/filter change, drain/refill rear drive oil, install new bushings in the shocks (upper bushings totally shot both sides as they appear original), & install a new air filter.  Since I'll have tank off anyway, plan to poke around the carbs a bit as the other recent thread on vacuum leaks has allowed me to find that I definitely have a few upper bands that are loose enough to allow some vacuum leaks.  That thread is pure gold for the info it provides.  I thought my bike - although brand new to me - is a bit sluggish & running rich.  I had it out for a short ride after fixing the front wheel/brake issue & with the engine up to temp I spray a bit of Berrymans B12 directly at all the possible offending places described in that thread.  My idle jumps right up & bike runs much smoother for about 10 seconds each time I sprayed around carbs #1, 3, & 6.  All other areas seem tight but engine clearly runs better if those air leaks are sealed up.

Only other pending task is cosmetic.  I bought a new shiny chrome "headlight garnish" since PO painted the one on the bike & I much prefer lots of 'chrome'.  I did get underneath this week & perform the recommended drain of the tube that acts like a PCV valve.  Once pull was removed, I caught about 3 Tablespoons worth of crud that appeared to be a nasty 50/50 mix of engine oil & water.

[Chrisj CMA]

Glad it worked. But just so you understand what actually happened when you tapped on the axle the left fork moved outward. The axle couldn’t move at that point, it’s bolted to the right fork