It didn’t used to hurt

[Chrisj CMA]

So my dash in the F-150 has been saying “Change Engine Oil Soon” for a few days now. What is soon anyway right?  Well today it changed to “Engine Oil change REQUIRED”. Lol

So I figure I have the oil so why not. 6qts out, 6qts in new filter then the clean up. Would have been fine but…. I decided to rotate the tires as well. So that’s all good but now I feel like I was in a fight. Them lugs were tight. My tire place used the air gun obviously.

At least it wasn’t 95 degrees so that part was great.

[old2soon]

       Good mechanic. Reasonable prices. All I have is a gravel driveway. Old bones. And the Pontiac IS low to the ground. And my mechanic has a recycled oil pickup where I have to take it to wally wurld. So bout 30 bucks and It IS a done deal. Mucho easier to slide the plastic than git under my cage these days!  RIDE SAFE.

[cookiedough]

that is a lot to do in 1 day oil change and tire rotation, done that before winter on my kids (technically mine) SUV.  Luckily I can barely get underneath the SUV without jacking it up to get the oil drain plug off, but jacking up one tire/side at a time sorta sucks doing it 4x's moving all the stuff around.  Getting up and down and moving all the stuff tire to tire to tire to tire for me is the hardest part taking the longest.

Never use to bother me as much either until the last year or so - getting old sorta sucks...

[Patrick]

The oil light came on ! Last I knew with Ford that was 10K. If another shop did the previous change maybe they didn't set the monitor.
Since I grew up in the business I still do this stuff myself.
Oil change and tire rotate maybe an hour. But it still irritates me that shops still rattle the lug nuts on as tight as they can get. I think a torque wrench is needed.[ I hate torque sticks]

But, as we get older things do take longer and hurt more. I sure don't get as much done anymore.


Back when I retired the last job I had was trying to check on the auto business in NYS. We used to catch some quick oil change shops using recycled oil which was pretty much junk and 10W-30 regardless of what the barrel said. We always got a lot of complaints about these shops.

[SCain]

But it still irritates me that shops still rattle the lug nuts on as tight as they can get. I think a torque wrench is needed.[ I hate torque sticks]

I watch those monkeys at the tire shops zap those lugs on with that impact, then they go through the motion of using the torque wrench, they are already overtight they just want to make it look like they are torqued. 

[MarkT]

2-3 years back I upgraded my impact driver to an electric one from Milwaukee.  Wasn't cheap.  Wow what an arm-saver!  This one has WAY more torque than the air gun does.  And no hassling with an air line.  Now I remove nearly all threaded fasteners with it.  I'll spin them on with it too - but stop well before it gets really tight and finish with the click wrench.

[MAD6Gun]

 I hear ya Jeff. I've gotten to the point crawling around under cars has gotten to be more effort then it should be. After 33+ years working as a tech I find it hard to let someone else work on my cars but after 33+ years and two new knees I find it physically easier for someone else to do it. Does that make sense?

 I just take our Acadia back to the last dealer I worked for and let them do the oil changes. My old boss even charges me employee rate. So it works out nicely. I even took my classic Pontiac Bonneville in so they could change its oil last fall. That was difficult. I've owned that car almost 39 years and except for the transmission rebuild I have been the only person who has worked on that car those 39 years. Was kinda funny watching Harry my ex-coworker try to get that car on and off the lift. He killed it multiple times. Due to the cam I have in the engine it has a very choppy idle. Sometimes I have to drive it with both feet to keep it from dieing. But it sure is fun to drive otherwise.....

[Patrick]

But it still irritates me that shops still rattle the lug nuts on as tight as they can get. I think a torque wrench is needed.[ I hate torque sticks]

I watch those monkeys at the tire shops zap those lugs on with that impact, then they go through the motion of using the torque wrench, they are already overtight they just want to make it look like they are torqued. 

Yep. I think some of them are so clueless they don't know what they've just done.

Sure you put them on with the impact, but, as you know, anyone with any sense knows to just snug them and then put the wrench in your hand.

[Patrick]

2-3 years back I upgraded my impact driver to an electric one from Milwaukee.  Wasn't cheap.  Wow what an arm-saver!  This one has WAY more torque than the air gun does.  And no hassling with an air line.  Now I remove nearly all threaded fasteners with it.  I'll spin them on with it too - but stop well before it gets really tight and finish with the click wrench.

Aren't those things great. I got a set of Rigid when they were on sale so the price I thought was reasonable. Its amazing the power those things have.
I've got all the air guns/tools, but, rarely use them anymore.

[Chrisj CMA]

I’ve done all the oil changes on this truck since I bought it 10 years ago. I always reset the computer and even though I told it to use the 10,000 interval it still warns me around 8. The F-150 has a royal PITA oil filter. You can’t reach it from underneath laying on the ground and you can’t really see it standing/kneeling on the bumper. So it’s almost impossible to not spill oil all over the place. But at least I know I will clean it up.

[matt]

Hey Jeff, does your truck have the rubber plug on sheild under filter? Most of those f150 we loosen filter let it drain for a while, check tire pressure fill washer fluid then remove filter and most of oil on other style have a peice of plastic under filter and makes clean up a lot easier

Matt

[Chrisj CMA]

Hey Jeff, does your truck have the rubber plug on sheild under filter? Most of those f150 we loosen filter let it drain for a while, check tire pressure fill washer fluid then remove filter and most of oil on other style have a peice of plastic under filter and makes clean up a lot easier

Matt

Ya it has that but it doesn’t direct the flow well.  Tried it the first time and oil went everywhere. I use an aluminum bread pan now and as long as I don’t drop the dang filter in it I can do the task with minimal spillage

[Patrick]

I’ve done all the oil changes on this truck since I bought it 10 years ago. I always reset the computer and even though I told it to use the 10,000 interval it still warns me around 8. The F-150 has a royal PITA oil filter. You can’t reach it from underneath laying on the ground and you can’t really see it standing/kneeling on the bumper. So it’s almost impossible to not spill oil all over the place. But at least I know I will clean it up.

Ah, OK. At least you know what oil and filter are in/on it.
Yep, some filters can be a royal PITA. Not one of their better ideas.

[shape]

I don’t hate doing it, but it’s not my idea of a good time either. Actually my Camry will be due in about the next 400 miles. Do it every 5k. Issue now is the temperature, got to keep my eye out for when it’ll be at least 30 degrees outside. Hate mid-winter oil changes. BTW, It was minus 13 early this morning. The thing I may dislike the most about it is all the schlepping. All the tools, jacks, jack stands, funnel, cardboard, taking care of the old oil, and of course oil/filter. I only have to move stuff about maybe 20 feet, but it sucks. Anyone remember when you use to do the job without gloves? I can’t be the only one. On the plus side, it’s kind of nice to crank music & have a couple beers as you do. Also it’s worth it to me for the piece of mind that some weird oil wasn’t used, it wasn’t over/under filled, and everything was properly done. My old ass will be under the car in the next couple weeks if weather allows, I got the stuff.

[Patrick]

Yep, get everything together so You only need to go down under once.

[Chrisj CMA]

For my F150. Like I said, the oil filter is a PITA but the oil is easy. I installed a Fumoto valve with a hose outlet. I have one of those otherwise worthless pancake oil pans with the tiny hole on top. Some idiot thought you could let the oil drain on the face and it would magically all go in the hole. Nope. But, I slide it under with a hose sticking out of hole. Stick the other end on the Fumoto valve and flip a switch. Then remove the fill cap for venting and just let it go while I wrestle with the filter.

[scooperhsd]

I will be replacing a car battery today or tomorrow on my 2000 new Beetle. If you have ever had a look under the hood - there's regular cars for tight engine compartments, and then there's VW's....

FOrtunately, I've done this enough that I know the procedure - unbolt the power steering fluid resevoir, remove the positive battery cable, remove the battery hold down bolt, slide the battery out enough to reach the negative cable and remove, then pull the battery completely out. Reverse to install the new one... About 30-45 minutes after buying the battery and finding my tools.

[G-Man]

Washed, waxed, cleaned and rotated wheels on the Challenger recently.  Later in the evening we all went to the Diner.  When I tried to get up from the table, my legs and lower back said No Sir, Sit Back Down!  The lactic acid must have built up in my muscles as I sat there still at the table.  Took me 10 minutes to straighten myself out.  I now stretch very well before doing anything with the cars or bikes and I take NSAIDs prophylactically after long periods of strenuous activity.  I also went back into the gym.  Was tired of hurting and feeling tired.  $10/month and I'm off the couch doing something that benefits me and I get to look at good looking girls while I do it.  

[Patrick]

They sure don't make vehicles easy to work on. They want you going back to the dealer.

I've even resorted to others for some work. Back in our home town there is a good family run tire store. If you buy tires from them they rotate free and inspect for half price. Our state still has a mandatory yearly safety/emission inspection. They have been known to leave a lug loose once in awhile and most places tighten them more than I like. I just loosen and retighten them.

[Rams]

They sure don't make vehicles easy to work on. They want you going back to the dealer.

This past summer I sold my last Pontiac Fiero.  Now, I don't consider myself a tech but, I've turned a lot of wrenchs and busted a lot of knuckles doing engine/transmission swaps on the 21 different Fieros I've owned.  

After a few months, I came onto a car I always liked and the price was right.   I bought a Pontiac Solstice convertible.   Love it, the wife and I go cruising in it a bunch.   Came time for an oil change and as always, I buy the supplies and get ready to crawl under it.   OK, back up, that ain't gonna work, get back up off the floor and go get the hydraulic floor jack and jack stands.   (I sure do miss that two post lift I left in KY.)  Finally, I'm under the car and for the life of me can't find an oil filter.   So, I get back out from under the car and start looking into the engine bay.   No Joy.   I've installed several remote oil filters on my different engine swaps but I still can't find that dang filter.   Finally I go to the internet, low and behold, it's halfway down on the back of the engine and can't be seen unless you're standing on top of the engine.  My Lord, it's obvious the engineers that designed this don't have to change the oil on them.  

Regardless, it's done and not due for another 5 to 7K miles.  Now if I could only get my wife on my Valkyrie (she doesn't ride) the world would be perfect.  

Rams

[scooperhsd]

Are you sure that isn't 10,000 miles ? At least on my VW's 10K miles between changes, although almost all mechanics / shops / dealers INSIST that it's only 5K miles, and that if you go past that, you're going to do serious damage to your vehicle....

I do use the factory recommended synthetic oils. VW 507 on the 2015 Golf TDI,and 5w40 diesel rated on the Beetle (usually Shell Rotella T6).

[cookiedough]

For my F150. Like I said, the oil filter is a PITA but the oil is easy. I installed a Fumoto valve with a hose outlet. I have one of those otherwise worthless pancake oil pans with the tiny hole on top. Some idiot thought you could let the oil drain on the face and it would magically all go in the hole. Nope. But, I slide it under with a hose sticking out of hole. Stick the other end on the Fumoto valve and flip a switch. Then remove the fill cap for venting and just let it go while I wrestle with the filter.

I bought one of those oil drain pans plastic top with slightly inclined down plastic all around with just a hole in the middle.  REALLY sucked the first time I used it on my 8 qt. tundra, what a mess hitting the top plastic surface and splashing all over even getting all over the inside of the right front passenger tire rim/tire and beyond that.  Was ugly mess.    I use a lot of old newspaper all around the oil pan usually and for the most part catches most messes fairly well.

[Mooskee]

I like having the right tool for the job, and my garage is full of them. Sometimes these days though,  the right tool is my credit card. By the time I pay the chiropractor bill etc., it's cheaper to pay the mechanic.

[scooperhsd]

I like having the right tool for the job, and my garage is full of them. Sometimes these days though,  the right tool is my credit card. By the time I pay the chiropractor bill etc., it's cheaper to pay the mechanic.

I can certainly relate to that statement.

BTW - got my Beetle's battery replaced. However, the stock radio is currently in "SAFE" mode, and is probably waiting for a code (which I don't currently have) to be entered. May have to make a run to a VW dealer for said code....

[Patrick]

I like having the right tool for the job, and my garage is full of them. Sometimes these days though,  the right tool is my credit card. By the time I pay the chiropractor bill etc., it's cheaper to pay the mechanic.

I can certainly relate to that statement.

BTW - got my Beetle's battery replaced. However, the stock radio is currently in "SAFE" mode, and is probably waiting for a code (which I don't currently have) to be entered. May have to make a run to a VW dealer for said code....

Isn't that crazy. Needing a code for a radio !  These cars are getting crazier. Is there a code card in the glove box or owners manual ? If not, like you said, the dealer will have it.

[RP#62]

They sure don't make vehicles easy to work on. They want you going back to the dealer.

This past summer I sold my last Pontiac Fiero.  Now, I don't consider myself a tech but, I've turned a lot of wrenchs and busted a lot of knuckles doing engine/transmission swaps on the 21 different Fieros I've owned.  

After a few months, I came onto a car I always liked and the price was right.   I bought a Pontiac Solstice convertible.   Love it, the wife and I go cruising in it a bunch.   Came time for an oil change and as always, I buy the supplies and get ready to crawl under it.   OK, back up, that ain't gonna work, get back up off the floor and go get the hydraulic floor jack and jack stands.   (I sure do miss that two post lift I left in KY.)  Finally, I'm under the car and for the life of me can't find an oil filter.   So, I get back out from under the car and start looking into the engine bay.   No Joy.   I've installed several remote oil filters on my different engine swaps but I still can't find that dang filter.   Finally I go to the internet, low and behold, it's halfway down on the back of the engine and can't be seen unless you're standing on top of the engine.  My Lord, it's obvious the engineers that designed this don't have to change the oil on them.  

Regardless, it's done and not due for another 5 to 7K miles.  Now if I could only get my wife on my Valkyrie (she doesn't ride) the world would be perfect.  

Rams

My son has a Solstice convertible as well.  One day it was slow to start, so he changed the battery.  No joy, still slow to start so we figured it might be the starter.  After a lot of looking with flashlights and mirrors, we found the starter.  To get to the starter, we had to remove part of the intake, the left tire, the left side quarter panel and the fender liner.  Managed to get the hold down nuts off and the electrical connectors and was able to move the starter forward about a half inch until it hit the engine mount.  No way to maneuver it around the mount.  I started looking at what it would take to jack up the engine a little to remove the mount and then thought I'd try dissassembling the starter a little.  Took the thru bolts out and removed the starter motor from the solenoid housing.  That let me get all the starter bits away from the engine, piece by piece.  Installation was the reverse of removal - dissassembled the new starter, pushed all the pieces up into the general mounting area and reassembled in place then seated to new starter assembly and connected it back up and torqued the mounting hardware.  Just for jollies, we checked it to make sure it worked before reassembling the front of the card and fortunately, that fixed it.  I'm still looking for the ahole that designed this.

-RP

[old2soon]

      It's simple the automobile manufacturers want the dealerships to keep the repair money by makin them danged near impossible for weekend/backyard wrench's to work on them. Already KNOW should I install a similar G M radio in my Pontiac the dealer has to marry them up-radio and my car. There is a large cross bar over the battery in my Pontiac. I'll let the garage change the battery. mad6gun-Mark-told me there is a tool that goes where the dog bone engine mount goes that acts like a reverse scissors to pull the engine forward to gain easier access to the rear plugs when changing them on my 3.8 liter Gen III engine I have. Friend of mine has an 08 Chevy Silverado that he is currently having at a Chevy dlr for injector coil pak computer problems.
      My very first car-54 Ford straight 6 3 speed overdrive and an A M radio was easy to work on. Shop Ross and I worked at and drove wrecker for let me use his spark plug sand blaster and ignition files to touch up the old points. Usually cleaned the plugs and points 2 or 3 times before replacing. Old tube type tires had a few patches I've done myself. Have rebuilt engines replaced clutches and throw out bearings and saved some money cuz of DIY! Most of the wrecking yards I picked when younger are long gone now!  Good ol days!  RIDE SAFE.

[Rams]

They sure don't make vehicles easy to work on. They want you going back to the dealer.

This past summer I sold my last Pontiac Fiero.  Now, I don't consider myself a tech but, I've turned a lot of wrenchs and busted a lot of knuckles doing engine/transmission swaps on the 21 different Fieros I've owned.  

After a few months, I came onto a car I always liked and the price was right.   I bought a Pontiac Solstice convertible.   Love it, the wife and I go cruising in it a bunch.   Came time for an oil change and as always, I buy the supplies and get ready to crawl under it.   OK, back up, that ain't gonna work, get back up off the floor and go get the hydraulic floor jack and jack stands.   (I sure do miss that two post lift I left in KY.)  Finally, I'm under the car and for the life of me can't find an oil filter.   So, I get back out from under the car and start looking into the engine bay.   No Joy.   I've installed several remote oil filters on my different engine swaps but I still can't find that dang filter.   Finally I go to the internet, low and behold, it's halfway down on the back of the engine and can't be seen unless you're standing on top of the engine.  My Lord, it's obvious the engineers that designed this don't have to change the oil on them.  

Regardless, it's done and not due for another 5 to 7K miles.  Now if I could only get my wife on my Valkyrie (she doesn't ride) the world would be perfect.  

Rams

My son has a Solstice convertible as well.  One day it was slow to start, so he changed the battery.  No joy, still slow to start so we figured it might be the starter.  After a lot of looking with flashlights and mirrors, we found the starter.  To get to the starter, we had to remove part of the intake, the left tire, the left side quarter panel and the fender liner.  Managed to get the hold down nuts off and the electrical connectors and was able to move the starter forward about a half inch until it hit the engine mount.  No way to maneuver it around the mount.  I started looking at what it would take to jack up the engine a little to remove the mount and then thought I'd try dissassembling the starter a little.  Took the thru bolts out and removed the starter motor from the solenoid housing.  That let me get all the starter bits away from the engine, piece by piece.  Installation was the reverse of removal - dissassembled the new starter, pushed all the pieces up into the general mounting area and reassembled in place then seated to new starter assembly and connected it back up and torqued the mounting hardware.  Just for jollies, we checked it to make sure it worked before reassembling the front of the card and fortunately, that fixed it.  I'm still looking for the ahole that designed this.

-RP

Well, if that starter ever goes out on me, now I know to haul it into a GM dealer.   

Rams

[Skinhead]

The reason for the radio codes was to prevent the radio thefts that were so common prior to the added security "features".  As far as hard to work on, when you want powerful engines in smaller cars, things get a little tight.  GM was developing a twin turbo V8 Cadillac a few years back.  I looked under the hood and decided right then and there, no way I would ever own one.   In todays world dropping entire engine cradles or removing cabs/bodies to complete a repair is all too common. 

I need a bigger garage and a lift.

[Rams]

The reason for the radio codes was to prevent the radio thefts that were so common prior to the added security "features".  As far as hard to work on, when you want powerful engines in smaller cars, things get a little tight.  GM was developing a twin turbo V8 Cadillac a few years back.  I looked under the hood and decided right then and there, no way I would ever own one.   In todays world dropping entire engine cradles or removing cabs/bodies to complete a repair is all too common. 

I need a bigger garage and a lift.

Can't tell you how many engines/transmissions I've dropped and installed into Fieros.   I like being able to drop a cradle with both bolted to it.   But, you're right about cramming bigger engines into smaller cars.   My Solstice doesn't have what I consider a bigger engine though.   It's just a 2.4L Ecotech 4 cylinder.   I have friends that have dropped engines like the LS3 and LS7 into a Solstice.   I'm not interested in doing that but, those engines in that bay have more room that what mine has.

Rams

[Skinhead]

When you add turbos and DOHC with phasers, even 4 cylinder engines take up a large space.  That's why I sad powerful, but in a lot of cases, powerful and big are same same.

[Rams]

When you add turbos and DOHC with phasers, even 4 cylinder engines take up a large space.  That's why I sad powerful, but in a lot of cases, powerful and big are same same.

Yep, that precisely why I'm leaving mine stock. 

Rams

[Wizzard]

My wife's car is a 2013 Lincoln MKZ with every bell and whistle you could imagine and in order to change the spark plugs you have to remove the intake manifold.

[Jess from VA]

One thing I learned the hard way.... when you have to take all kinds of things apart to fix or replace something, always test that it actually works while everything is still as taken apart as possible.  

The upside of not following this advice is that the second time you have to take everything apart and put it back together again, you are about four times as good at it as the first time.  

Still, putting two different batteries in the knock out panel in the wheel well (with the 27 little screws) the same day makes you irritable.  Although you do get to practice your bad language twice as much.  

[Rams]

 Although you do get to practice your bad language twice as much.  

Jess, I assure you, I don't need to practice.   I have very little patience; I have a short attention span and I'm easily distracted.   Yeah, I'm a candidate for a road rage incident.  
Ok, where's that medication I was asked to take?

But, back to the original topic, yeah, I can relate to it didn't use to hurt.   Between getting older, bad knees, a motorcycle crash a few years back with lasting effects, yeah, it hurts quite a bit more now.

Thankfully, I've retained my good looks.   

Rams  

[MAD6Gun]

 As most of you know I spent 33+ working on GM cars in dealership shops. With that said I've seen my share of  questionable engineering expertise. Many times I said to myself "I'm going to Detroit,find and kick the ass of the idiot who designed this crap". I could write a book on the stupid stuff I've seen that passed for engineering.

 One real good example of stupid was the entire 3.4L twin cam engine used in the Monte Carlo,Grand Prix bodies in the 90s. Those who aren't familiar with this engine is was basically a 3.1L V6 internal camshaft engine that was made bigger to 3.4L and converted to twin overhead cams. Because it was a converted internal camshaft engine it still had to have said shaft. Yes,not only did it have 4 cams on top it had another shaft in the original place in the middle of the block. Why? That shaft was needed to drive the oil pump which was still in the rear of the motor. So this engine had a normal timing chain in the normal place AND a timing belt to drive the overhead cams. It also still had the little "dummy" shaft where the original distributer was to drive the oil pump off the internal shaft. That dummy shaft had a oil seal on it that was proan to leak. If it leaks you just remove the shaft and replace it right? Nope. You could easily on the 3.1L but on the 3.4L due to the cylinder head design you could only pull in out about an inch before it hit the head. Yes you would have to remove the back cylinder head to replace the oil pump drive shaft seal. Most just pulled the shaft housing up,add quality sealer and push it back into the block and cross your fingers. The alternator was under the engine on the passing side above the right axle. It took over three hours to replace. It took over eight hours to replace the timing belt. I could go on but you get the jist. That was just one engine but this was common for GM. Oh I've seen many other companies follies too but I was a GM tech most of my career.

[scooperhsd]

The reason for the radio codes was to prevent the radio thefts that were so common prior to the added security "features".  As far as hard to work on, when you want powerful engines in smaller cars, things get a little tight.  GM was developing a twin turbo V8 Cadillac a few years back.  I looked under the hood and decided right then and there, no way I would ever own one.   In todays world dropping entire engine cradles or removing cabs/bodies to complete a repair is all too common. 

I need a bigger garage and a lift.

You've got on the radio code - and it eventually realized it was still in the right car / ECU overnight,.

[Patrick]

Stupid stuff. About a decade ago I replaced a starter on a friends Cadillac. It was in the valley, requiring the removal of the intake. Who thinks this stupid stuff up ! It took me 2 days. He brought it me to do some front light work, can't remember exactly what, but the front end had to come apart. I didn't work on that car ever again.


Engine swaps ?
Did my share. My first car was a '48 Ford coupe. We had a 57 Cadillac with the 360 with 2 WCFB's so just had to go into that Ford. [ I was 14]. I couldn't figure out how to hook the Caddy transmitter to the Ford torque tube so it came out and the Caddy rear end went in and I welded up the side gears with a 4.10 ring/pinion. After that we took in a Chrysler with a 392 semi and twin Carter AFBs. So out came the Caddy and in went the Chrysler. Now I'm 16. I then worked all summer to earn enough for a blower manifold and drive for the 6-71 GMC blower I had hanging around. 16 yrs old driving a semi blower motor.

Later our manager bought a totaled Bugeye Sprite he knew I needed while I was away. A Ford 289 with a C4 went in that. Had to put in a Ford rear axle in too.

I've put 289's in a couple Volvo's, P1800 and 544.

Used to do crazy stuff like that years ago.

[cookiedough]

My wife's car is a 2013 Lincoln MKZ with every bell and whistle you could imagine and in order to change the spark plugs you have to remove the intake manifold.

yep, we have santa fe 3.3L V6 290hp and 3 spark plugs easy right there in front, but back 3 take off intake manifold and dozens of other wires and components.  I took it to a shop and charged me around 100 bucks which is over 1 hour of labor.  I was stupid and should have asked for the original 6 spark plugs just to make sure they did change the 3 in back taking over an hour vs. just the 3 in front readily seen.  I took one of the front ones out and even that one looked good still at 100K miles plug change intervals.  Never know about auto stores nowadays not doing the work one would never know if not asked for original spark plugs if changed or not.  

back in early 90's I sold my wife's 1988 toyota tercel 4 speed stick simply because I could NOT get at the darn oil filter with my hands up in there was nearly impossible and if engine was HOT,  burn your hands instantly.  Am sure the toyota dealer had to have a 'special' oil filter removal tool should have asked or looked it up before I sold it probably still be running today with 300K miles on it?  Great little car good for 4 people and sorta peppy to drive for such a small engine and got NO JOKE 45 mpg which is impressive not any NON hybrids today get that.

[Skinhead]

As most of you know I spent 33+ working on GM cars in dealership shops. With that said I've seen my share of  questionable engineering expertise. Many times I said to myself "I'm going to Detroit,find and kick the ass of the idiot who designed this crap". I could write a book on the stupid stuff I've seen that passed for engineering.

 One real good example of stupid was the entire 3.4L twin cam engine used in the Monte Carlo,Grand Prix bodies in the 90s. Those who aren't familiar with this engine is was basically a 3.1L V6 internal camshaft engine that was made bigger to 3.4L and converted to twin overhead cams. Because it was a converted internal camshaft engine it still had to have said shaft. Yes,not only did it have 4 cams on top it had another shaft in the original place in the middle of the block. Why? That shaft was needed to drive the oil pump which was still in the rear of the motor. So this engine had a normal timing chain in the normal place AND a timing belt to drive the overhead cams. It also still had the little "dummy" shaft where the original distributer was to drive the oil pump off the internal shaft. That dummy shaft had a oil seal on it that was proan to leak. If it leaks you just remove the shaft and replace it right? Nope. You could easily on the 3.1L but on the 3.4L due to the cylinder head design you could only pull in out about an inch before it hit the head. Yes you would have to remove the back cylinder head to replace the oil pump drive shaft seal. Most just pulled the shaft housing up,add quality sealer and push it back into the block and cross your fingers. The alternator was under the engine on the passing side above the right axle. It took over three hours to replace. It took over eight hours to replace the timing belt. I could go on but you get the jist. That was just one engine but this was common for GM. Oh I've seen many other companies follies too but I was a GM tech most of my career.

I spent most of my career working in the Powertrain Division in the truck small/big block group which included the 4.3 liter v6, these were 90* vee engines.  I never realized GM still used the in block cam in the 60* vee DOHC engines.  I'm sure they did a cost analysis and found it was cheaper to go that route as opposed to re-designing the 60* block.  When they went to the DOD (Displacement On Demand, or later AFM Active Fuel Management) engines in the small block group, they installed the LOMA (Lifter Oil Manifold Assembly I believe) and collapsible lifters in all the small blocks, even those applications that did not use DOD.  I had to be cheaper than making a DOD and a Non-DOD engine even though they were paying for several parts that were never used in the Non-DOD applications.