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Author Topic: Fork re-build question  (Read 2525 times)
Tx Bohemian
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Posts: 2272

Victoria, Tx


« on: June 19, 2024, 07:34:49 AM »

I'm in the middle of resealing my forks, finished with the right side and about to tackle the left.
In researching the assembly / re-assembly I ran across this old post that you don't have to remove the spring on the left side just to reseal and replace the bushings, therefore you don't need the special "left fork tool"!

Also just to be clear to folks that may not know...this tool is only needed if you are changing out the actual springs (and only then on one side). It is not required if you are just doing a seal/bushing change.

Can anyone expand on this?
All I'm doing is resealing and replacing the bushings.
I'm following a Clymer manual, do I just skip over the parts that deal with the spring part?

A little side-note: As I'm following the Clymer on the right side fork it didn't mention to put the "backing ring" on that fits above the seal!!
I discovered the ring on the bench after I was admiring my "completed work" on the fork!!!
DAMMIT!!!!
Apart we go AGAIN!! tickedoff tickedoff
Worked out well the second time!!

Thanks for any info.

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Remember, if you are on a bike and wreck with a car no matter how "in the right" you are you are going to lose. RIDE LIKE EVERBODY IS OUT TO GET YOU!!
Al
Timbo1
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Posts: 275

Tulsa, Ok.


« Reply #1 on: June 19, 2024, 09:26:00 AM »

There used to be a write up here on the forum somewhere to install new fork seals but I cant seem to find it.  I think I pretty much followed it when I did this write up when I replaced the fork seals.

https://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,114932.msg1179542.html#msg1179542


ETA
I found a PDF I had saved from the original post that I was referencing but still cant find it on the forum.  So I saved a .jpg to post here.

« Last Edit: June 19, 2024, 09:45:06 AM by Timbo1 » Logged
Joe333x
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Posts: 142


Boston


« Reply #2 on: June 19, 2024, 10:53:11 AM »

Correct, you only need the fork tool if you are replacing the springs.
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Tx Bohemian
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Posts: 2272

Victoria, Tx


« Reply #3 on: June 19, 2024, 11:53:43 AM »

Y'all guys are the GREATEST!!!!

Got it done!!

Thanks fellas!!!
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Remember, if you are on a bike and wreck with a car no matter how "in the right" you are you are going to lose. RIDE LIKE EVERBODY IS OUT TO GET YOU!!
Al
98valk
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Posts: 13439


South Jersey


« Reply #4 on: June 22, 2024, 06:15:14 PM »

u can make your own tools, very low cost

u can make your own fork tool from heater element wrench home depot

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,70292.0.html

and make a stem nut tool

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,31752.0.html
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

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rug_burn
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Posts: 320


Brea, CA


« Reply #5 on: July 04, 2024, 01:22:16 PM »

   Funny, I just did this, like maybe three weeks ago...  
Leaving the tubes on the bike, held by the lower fork clamps, (since the top ones need to be loose to take off the caps,) you gotta pull off those top fork caps, since they're what holds it all together.  Then pull out thr lock ring, and (as gently as possible, like a slide hammer,)  tap out the seal, slide out the and drain the oil into the drain pan hopefully waiting underneath.  
It's pretty easy.     You should deburr all sharp edges on the holes on the sides of the tubes, and use paper (masking) tape on assembly, per the manual, when you put the seal on  the tube.  Pull off the tape, and slid it in just that easy; (those were the days).  
   Next step requires a simple tool, although with care you can drive in the  seal with handmade hardwood drivers, etc.   I got a lathe, so I made my seal driver from a piece of delrin  (which suddenly became very expensive...)    I made a groove for a hose clamp, and split it with a bandsaw.   Worked perfect, you just  put it together on the fork tube with a hose clamp and go around it with a wood stick and small hammer, and drive it in from both sides.    
    
    On mine, a '97 Tourer, I got a shitload of dings and pits from stones going through that 3/16" gap between the stone deflector and the fork tube Alum.  casting. Probably a common scenario. I had to smooth them out with a sharpening stone, (Arkansas -  whaddaya think?)  


All together now, and no leaks.  As long as the seal doesn't have to go over those pits too much...
« Last Edit: July 04, 2024, 01:54:55 PM by rug_burn » Logged

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george223
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Posts: 6

Huntington Beach, CA


« Reply #6 on: August 02, 2024, 12:00:19 PM »

I haven't been on this site for quite awhile. I've been doing some work on my '99 Valk lately and thought I would check in. It's good to see that this site is still active.

Right now, I'm in the middle of replacing the seals on my forks. My left fork had a noticeable leak but my right fork was ok. I decided to do both. I too had pitting at the bottom of inner tubes and was trying to decide what to do about it. After searching on Google, as suggested by others, I wet sanded the area that was pitted with 1500 grit sandpaper using WD-40 to wet it down. I then cleaned the area with acetone and put a dab of gel type superglue on each pit. I let it sit for 24 hours and then wet sanded the superglue until smooth. Now I can barely feel any imperfections where the pitting was. I think I'm good now. However, it would be an extreme case where either of my forks got compressed enough for the seals to run over the pits.

My 2nd issue which is just purely cosmetic. My upper tubes had areas on them that looked like they got sandblasted and looked nasty. So I decided to wet sand each spot starting with 600 grit, then 1000 grit, followed by 1500 grit using WD-40 to wet down the spots. I then went over each spot with polishing compound on a cotton cloth. It was a lot of work. The tubes are looking pretty good now, however, the original texture on the upper tube is gone on these spots so there is a slight contrast that is really only noticeable up close. Before I did this, I thought that the upper tubes were chrome plated but once I started sanding, it was apparent that there was no plating. Good enough
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george223
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Posts: 6

Huntington Beach, CA


« Reply #7 on: August 02, 2024, 12:24:21 PM »

I tried to post pics from my computer of the before and after of my upper tubes but got an error. Is there a trick to posting pics?
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rug_burn
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Posts: 320


Brea, CA


« Reply #8 on: August 09, 2024, 08:43:50 AM »

The way to post images is to use Postimages.org.
  You sign up, real easy and free, then upload you images to your account there.  
  Then when you're writing your post or reply, you insert the URL to the image ('direct link' works good) in the text after you click the 'insert image' button.   You insert it right between those two pairs of square brackets.
« Last Edit: August 09, 2024, 08:45:43 AM by rug_burn » Logged

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Bagger John - #3785
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Posts: 1952



« Reply #9 on: August 14, 2024, 12:24:22 PM »

Way back when at a Tech Session in Ohio I rebuilt 3 sets of forks in one day.

Final bike was Shaggy's - 97 Standard. Lots of pitting.

Wet sanding starting with 600 grit emery and progressing to 1000 then 1500 smoothed the high spots. I borrowed a bottle of Wicked Wanda's (Nancy) clear nail polish and went after the areas with it. Heat gun to speed curing, more wet sanding to smooth then assemble forks with new seals.

Last I heard, bike was still doing its thing.

Bought my own bottle of polish which stays in my shop's chemical supplies cabinet. Both of my Concours 14s needed it at some point and I am VERY careful in keeping their fork tubes clean.
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rug_burn
Member
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Posts: 320


Brea, CA


« Reply #10 on: August 18, 2024, 10:30:08 AM »

That sounds good-    I was thinking about the same idea but using super glue (CA glue). 
    It'll have to be next time, at about 300k miles, lol.
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