I wonder what's wrong now

[Dag]

I went out for a ride yesterday to meet some guys from the club. After a couple of hours ride, I heard some sounds and "clinker klonk" noice and thr pegs began to vibrate. There was also a constant grind sound and I could feel that it "snatched" the bike several times. At the same time it seemed a little loose, the back turned slightly from side to side.
I continued to the destination, we rented us four cabins on a campsite, made good food and had a good time. I rode the bike low and easy back home, and will now begin to dismantle. It will be exciting to see what I find. I hope it's wheel bearings, but it happened so suddenly that I'm in doubt.

I have a few hours work in my garage now...

[Chrisj CMA]

I guess U-joint

[Dag]

I guess U-joint

I dont have my camera here in the garage, but if you log on to my garage web cam I`ll show you somthing 

http://www.valkyrienorway.com/webcam/garage.html

[Chrisj CMA]

Wow......what a blow out!  You are lucky you were able to make it home. 

[Dag]

The outer part of the bearing sre still stuck in the rim. Its dark blue...
I think I have to machine it out or maybe use the dremel and cut it.
The was only 7 balls left in the bearing and thy were not round  ???

I will ride back and meet the guys tomorrow morning, we have planned a ride to the Atlantic Ocean Road 

[Dag]

Bad.... 

[paul]

Are you going to do the  r/h //bigger bearing in the l/h side to, mod??

[Dag]

Are you going to do the  r/h //bigger bearing in the l/h side to, mod??

thats maybe a good idea...
What experiance do we have?

[T.P.]

That is what happened to STRIDER in Minnesota last year. we had to beat it out from the back side in a parking lot, wrecked the wheel some, better try one of these.  T.P.


http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html

[paul]

If thats the l/h rear bearing//...you can replace it with another//bigger r/h bearing//and turn down the outer spacer, the difference... need to mic it,, but its around .24 .25 ///they are sealed so you can do away with the dust seal///and never have to be cocerned about rear bearings again....

[Kymbo]

Easiest way to remove a stuck outer bearing i found was to tack weld a piece of metal across it and drive it out from the otherside then no special tools required.

[Colin]

Are you going to do the  r/h //bigger bearing in the l/h side to, mod??

thats maybe a good idea...
What experiance do we have?

Dag, several people have done it and Xring has done a write up on it and it is in the Shoptalk section or on the VRCC Espana site.

[Dag]

Are you going to do the  r/h //bigger bearing in the l/h side to, mod??

thats maybe a good idea...
What experiance do we have?

Dag, several people have done it and Xring has done a write up on it and it is in the Shoptalk section or on the VRCC Espana site.

thanks Colin 

[paul]

Sorry you had that go out on the road...glad you got her back ok...but it reminded me about the bearing mod...Im going to order a extra spacer and turn it down and replace that lh/ bearing on my next tire change...the r/h one looks more like what the big,n,,the king of the road,, needs...shes a BIG Beast...and Im not gettin any smaller latley.......wath out for those @#$@##%%% texters...

[X Ring]

Paul, you don't turn the outer spacer down .  You cut it down so it is shorter.  Turning something down makes it smaller in diameter.

Dag, the right hand bearing is 6.6mm thicker than the left hand.  Take your outer spacer to a machine shop and have them mill the narrow end.

Here's a thread where I have discussed the importance of picking the correct bearing.  The bearing I chose is in the Tech Article.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,17081.0.html


Marty

[paul]

Thanks XRING....   thats what I meant to say...thanks for the link,,good read..6.6mm to take off correct?.

[MP]

Or .260" in english!

MP

[Ricky-D]

I have no idea of the miles on your Valkyrie but I would suggest simply replacing the bearing and seal with new parts.

It would seem the old ones served you Ok!

The only caution I would make is to be sure the replacement bearing is a fully sealed bearing.

Some have said on this forum that the Honda OEM bearing they secured from their dealer had a seal on one side only. This is surely an improper replacement.

I've over 105k miles and the bearings are still top condition.

Riding environment is the all important consideration in instances like you experience and I would say that the extra seal that you would still have is an important issue, in which case would not be able to be installed if you go with the bearing some are mentioning. Two seal are better than one!

***

[2qmedic]

Dag,

I replaced my rearleft bearing in the fall with the larger right bearing. I have a much greater peace of mind while riding. No worry about the smaller bearing going out on me 66k now.

With a talk to the engineer where I purchased the bearing I understood alot more about the ratings that bearings have. The bottom line is that if you go to a place that specializes in bearings ie Allballs, then you will not have to worry about the person behind the counter giving you a replacement bearing that has a low rating. The bearings that go on the rear wheel don't have to be the highest rating either because that would be like having a 350cid motor on a 21inch push mower.

Glad you made it back safe and sound.

Ride safe and enjoy,

Charles
 

[Ricky-D]

It seems to me that the general consensus is that there is a need for more load carrying capacity in the rear wheel bearing that's on the left side.
That that is the reason for bearing failure in most all the cases.

Well, that is nonsense. Would anyone actually think Honda would design the Valkyrie with that defect?

The reason for bearing failure is contamination.

Be it water or dirt, the bearing fails because contamination gets into the bearing and slowly destroys the bearing surfaces.

So now it's suggested that doing away with the seal is Ok because you get a greater carrying capacity with the double  row bearing and it has an internal seal already. 

Well folks, the most important part of the whole assembly is the seal, the one you're willing to eliminate. This is completely in conflict with good mechanical practice and application.

The best practice dictates a thorough cleaning of the axle and seals and bearing exteriors and all the rest of the parts every time you have cause to remove the wheel. Use a good quality grease when replacing the parts and inspect the seals and runners for damage.

If you still insist on doing that modification to a double bearing you ought to go ahead and get a couple extra to have on hand because you will need them. The double row bearing lacking the main outer seal will only forestall failure since there will now be two rows of balls, destruction will have to progress through the first row, before you discover the bearing is lunched.

***

[Rio Wil]

The best practice dictates a thorough cleaning of the axle and seals and bearing exteriors and all the rest of the parts every time you have cause to remove the wheel. Use a good quality grease when replacing the parts and inspect the seals and runners for damage.
======================================================   

NOTE:  This does not mean blasting these bearings with a high pressure sprayer at the local car wash or even at home with your garden hose....water will be forced past the seal and you are on your way to failure, just a matter of time!

[Ricky-D]

Rio Wil writes:

"NOTE:  This does not mean blasting these bearings with a high pressure sprayer at the local car wash or even at home with your garden hose....water will be forced past the seal and you are on your way to failure, just a matter of time!"

You can say that again!

You have struck, most likely,  on the greatest reason for wheel bearing failure.

Bravo!

There are a lot of idiots that are constantly doing just that, same way they wash their cars.

***

[2qmedic]

I guess that there has been no manufacture that has made any error in the design of any equipment ever made. I chose to replace my single with a double bearing. So what...it has seals on each side. Good for me...
Didn't know that some people would loose sleep over such a simple modification that effectively reduces the load on the other bearings by 25% each, it doesn't hurt anything to have the extra capacity if you are going to replace the bearing anyway.

If Honda engineers are so perfect , then why are there other issues with our Valks that require modifications so that they are more reliable?

I guess that it should be looked at as flaming death due to stupidity to want to improve on the reliability of MY Valk.

BTW, where is the research info that concludes the the blasting with high pressue water is the greatest reason for bearing failures?

You do to yours what you will, I'll not complain and I'll keep my opinions of your Valk's owner off this forum.

If you remember correctly, I responded after you several months ago on the same subject where
you said that the rear wheel only turns a few hundred rpm. Wrong sir, do the math, or do your research before you turn on your PC and actually know what you are talking about.

Enough of this non-sense, I have some work to do before I retire for the night.