Rebuilding the pumpkin,,, the saga continues

[Ricky-D]

First I want to reference the url for the first part of this project.

Here it is:  http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,19744.0.html

I'm sorry for no pictures but my camera is crappy and I don't think pictures will be much use, but I will attempt to describe everything adequately.

I also want to reference the url for the parts blow-up and identification and parts numbers.

Here it is:  http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=148613&category=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=2000&fveh=3474

Now I'll continue.

If you plan on doing this rebuild I suggest also purchasing the 'O'-ring holder (Part #14). This thing does not lend itself to removal although when you do remove it, it is very usable. I had to use my die grinder to relieve the old ring gear (in two places) so there would be edges that I could use a punch on to get the thing out. It would be a lot simpler to get a new one!

The stop pin (part #15) was an animal of a different sort. What a pain in the ass. I finally decided to drill in from the back side and use a punch to remove the pin. I tried it in the oven to 325 degrees and pulled, twisted, drive a screwdriver blade and nothing worked. The Honda manual infers it will drop out which is a lot of crap. A surprise was that it is fluted and I could see the remnants of aluminum in the bottom of the recess from the pin being pressed in. No wonder it wouldn't twist out! I will seal the hole I drilled with some kind of short self tapping screw and some locktite.

I think this stop pin clearance is an important measurement and since I had to shim the ring gear to get the correct tooth pattern, which broadened the stop pin gap, it was necessary to also shim the stop pin. This is the back up for the ring gear when under full power. The ring gear will deflect a little and this stop pin restricts the deflection.  I was planning on drilling and tapping the stop pin so I could use a small bolt to hold the pin securely but that was folly. The stop pin is a hardened piece of steel and I could not even punch an indent in it to start the drill bit!

So now everything is good and assembly is coming soon. I'm going to take all the bearings out and wash them for a final assembly and also install the oil seals.  I've secured a pinion nut socket from a friend and it doesn't quite fit properly so I'll die grind the relief side of the teeth on the pinion nut so the socket fits correctly. I'll only have to grind four spots and not too much either for it to fit.

In regard to removing the pinion gear shaft, it was simple! A couple of large screwdrivers and a little twisting against the housing and the whole assembly slid right out. I used a punch to remove the pinion nut which is a pretty common thing to do, I think. Just have to go slow and move around the circumference regularly. Reinstalling the pinion assembly was the same only in reverse. You have to get it in straight and enough to secure a few threads to start the nut. I had to remove and reinstall the pinion gear shaft assembly several times for the purpose of patterning the gear teeth.

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[Valkpilot]

Still sounds promising, Ricky-D. 

Is it as much work as it sounds, or the kind of thing that's not bad when you're up to your elbows in it?

I'm anxious for the ride report and longevity testing!

[Ricky-D]

It's really not too bad, but I'm only spending an hour or two at a stretch so as to be sure I don't miss something by trying to speed through the process.

now I'm fretting over what to use for a sealing compound when I button up the two pieces. I've always used "yellow dog" which as I remember is a Permatex trim adhesive, it is yellow and that's why I call it such.

I'm sure there are better things out there now, I just have to go look and see what's available.

I worry over every little thing which for me is a pain in the ass because I do it even when there's no problem. Now I know I have to find a sealer which will give me plenty of work time and yet still allow me to apply an even coat and not too much where it will extrude into the cavity and possibly cause contamination problems. I guess I could mask it and spray something if there is a product just for that kind of application.  I don't know!

Have to get some more kerosene so I can wash everything before a final assembly. Ever ride with a five gallon can bunji corded to the back rest sitting on the passenger seat? I bet cars behind me see that red gas can and think I'm a terrorist headed for the state capital building! Kerosene by the way is over four bucks a gallon around here.

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[Robert]

Rick I didn't see this post so you probably already have this done but just use silicon gray and dont worry a thin even coat and what little goes into the rear will not be a problem. Dont use the glue it wont hold up. Worry thats the biggest thing to combat when working on anything try needing 24 hours of work time and find you have to take the whole thing apart because one piece didn't go in right. The rear is not a big time investment but the clearances have to be right. If not it will make noise.