|
Doc X
|
 |
« on: February 16, 2012, 05:20:23 AM » |
|
I am going to drop my rear wheel, and I would like to know in cook book form;1, 2 ,3 ,4, ect of what to look for and what to lub and what lub goes on what part. I saw on search that you tighten the four final drive bolts last . I assume you have already tightened the wheel back on???
Thanks,
Doc X
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Doc X
|
|
« Reply #1 on: February 16, 2012, 05:34:55 AM » |
|
One more thing, are there any parts that should be replaced while I am inspecting the drive? I would order them before I drop the wheel. Parts like O rings or seals I already have the OEM rear wheel bearings. I know, if it ant broke don't try and fix it. Just trying to do a little preventive maintenance.
Thanks Again
Doc X
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Doc X
|
|
« Reply #3 on: February 16, 2012, 07:16:47 AM » |
|
Bone, I went to the link to get the part numbers and the only part that I can find on direct line OEM parts is 91356 MG9 003. Can not find the dust seal , thrust washer or the othe O rings
Doc X
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Cattman
|
|
« Reply #4 on: February 16, 2012, 07:43:12 AM » |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Ricky-D
|
|
« Reply #5 on: February 16, 2012, 08:15:49 AM » |
|
There's no need to replace the thrust washer.
Just be sure it is there and in the correct place.
***
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
2000_Valkyrie_Interstate
|
|
|
|
Doc X
|
|
« Reply #6 on: February 16, 2012, 12:47:32 PM » |
|
I can't find the dust seal #91253 433 761 or the thrust washer. Why can't I find them on the Honda parts list from direct line OEM parts. Went to town but no go.
Thanks,
Doc X
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
custom1
Member
Posts: 333
01 Interstate
SW Pa
|
|
« Reply #7 on: February 16, 2012, 01:57:53 PM » |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
John
|
|
|
|
Doc X
|
|
« Reply #8 on: February 16, 2012, 02:36:20 PM » |
|
Thanks to all of you .
Doc X
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Novavalker
|
|
« Reply #9 on: February 16, 2012, 03:03:28 PM » |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
“The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.”
|
|
|
|
sandy
|
|
« Reply #10 on: February 16, 2012, 07:13:41 PM » |
|
Where do you live? Maybe someone in your area might be able to help that first time you work on it.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Doc X
|
|
« Reply #11 on: February 17, 2012, 06:19:54 AM » |
|
I live in Las Cruces , NM
Doc X
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Bone
|
|
« Reply #12 on: February 17, 2012, 06:25:50 AM » |
|
I rode to Los Lunas two years ago to visit a friend.
Beautiful country.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
F6BANGER
|
|
« Reply #13 on: February 17, 2012, 06:34:35 AM » |
|
Doc X, Check your "My Messages".
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Brian
|
|
« Reply #14 on: February 19, 2012, 09:17:39 AM » |
|
I looked at this link and the pictures. I have never had the rear end off the bike till seeing these. Does the swing arm have to be removed to gain access to the u-joint. If anything it's a good time of year here to clean and lube all these splines and slip joints as part of winter maintenance. Thanks for sharing. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
F6BANGER
|
|
« Reply #15 on: February 19, 2012, 09:24:27 AM » |
|
Brian,
No the swing arm does NOT have to be removed. Once you unbolt the rear end(4 nuts), pull rear end from bike. The drive shaft stays with the rear end and pulls out of the u-joint. When installing, make sure you have the swing arm level or higher. You install the rear end with the drive shaft connected. You will have a hard time installing it if you let the swingarm hang down.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Brian
|
|
« Reply #16 on: February 19, 2012, 09:57:07 AM » |
|
Brian,
No the swing arm does NOT have to be removed. Once you unbolt the rear end(4 nuts), pull rear end from bike. The drive shaft stays with the rear end and pulls out of the u-joint. When installing, make sure you have the swing arm level or higher. You install the rear end with the drive shaft connected. You will have a hard time installing it if you let the swingarm hang down.
Thanks F6, what about pulling the u-joint for inspection? The book says to remove the swing arm, is this necessary? |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Bigwolf
|
|
« Reply #17 on: February 19, 2012, 09:57:52 AM » |
|
Brian, The swing arm does not have to be removed to get the u-joint out. Details at this link: http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/ujoint.html I found it easier to get the joint out while the swing arm was lowered to about a 45 degree angle instead of all the way down. It is actually quite easy this way. Wolf |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Brian
|
|
« Reply #18 on: February 19, 2012, 10:16:05 AM » |
|
Brian, The swing arm does not have to be removed to get the u-joint out. Details at this link: http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/ujoint.html I found it easier to get the joint out while the swing arm was lowered to about a 45 degree angle instead of all the way down. It is actually quite easy this way. Wolf Thanks Wolf. Awesome info. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
fon1961
|
|
« Reply #19 on: February 20, 2012, 12:05:58 PM » |
|
very good info in this post, thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Cattman
|
|
« Reply #20 on: February 20, 2012, 12:22:21 PM » |
|
While you've got the wheel off go ahead and do the double bearing mod on the left side. I've got mine off to do the same maintence and the left bearing is almost toast. This will be the 4th bearing for that side in 78k miles and it will be a double like the right. Easy mod listed in shoptalk.  |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
