Carb Work Begins

[Bigwolf]

My fat gurl has been starving at WOT for a long time while I have been tweaking other parts.  Now the new carb seals and such are here and it is raining outside so it is time to pull the carb assembly and do my best to make everything right.

I have had the carb assembly out on the bench twice before but have never done anything except change the jets.  This time I am going to pull each carb completely appart, clean it and put it back with all new seals. 

Any hints or suggestions while I have this all apart?  I do not want to have to pull this carb assembly again this year.

Wolf

[Ricky-D]

I surmise that you are expecting that to solve the fuel starvation problem.

***

[art]

Be caerful when disassembling there a lot of little o rings in there that could get lost .You need to replace them .

[Bigwolf]

Ricky,

I surmise that you are expecting that to solve the fuel starvation problem.

  Expecting is a pretty strong word.  More like I believe I will have the problem solved when I get the tank back on after this round of work.

Art, I got the carb kit from Ecrater.  I believe all the required O-rings are in the package.  I also bought new vacuum caps.  The old caps are begining to show some cracking on the inside.

I intend to number each carb to be sure they end up back in their current position and I also intend to have only one carb apart at a time.

[DFragn]

How long has it been since the slow jets [35's or 38's] have been replaced?

The slow jets are so dern small they are not likely to clean well or can be damaged by reaming.
My preference is to just replace them if I decide to break everything down. Last thing I want to do is go back in there!

[Bigwolf]

The carbs are on the bench.  I will open them tomorrow.
It is a long story about the jets that are in the carbs now.  The slow jets are 35s and I really do not know how long they have been in service.  The main jets are currently 105s but I now have on hand a set of 100s that I intend to put in when I put these back together.  I have a new set of 38 slow jets but I think I am going to continue with 35s for now.

When I ordered the 38s and 105s I was running Cobra 6X6 pipes but then I found a set of stock exhaust which I now have on the bike.  So now I am thinking I should put the carbs back to stock jetting with a good cleaning of everything and see how it all works. 

Wolf

[Ricky-D]

I've never had my carburetors apart.

It's been said by some,,,,, that there is an internal fuel screen in each carburetor.

It sure would add to the knowledge base knowing which is the case.

Would you mind reporting on this particular subject?

Thanks,,, post some pic's if you can!

***

[98valk]

My fat gurl has been starving at WOT for a long time while I have been tweaking other parts.  Now the new carb seals and such are here and it is raining outside so it is time to pull the carb assembly and do my best to make everything right.

I have had the carb assembly out on the bench twice before but have never done anything except change the jets.  This time I am going to pull each carb completely appart, clean it and put it back with all new seals. 

Any hints or suggestions while I have this all apart?  I do not want to have to pull this carb assembly again this year.

Wolf

if u have a stock air box, the main jets are what u need.  38s are good for the ethanol fuel, which cause a slight leaness with oem 35s.  mains are actually slightly rich.  fuel flow problems, petcock diaphragm not fully opening, due to wear, manifold o-rings leaking or bowl vent tubes partially blocked, ie, bugs, cobwebs etc., fuel line to carbs from petcock not correctly sloped to carbs.
pulling them apart like u plan is most likely a waste of time and is not your problem.

[Russell Rice]

THese items and tips are things a buddy of mine and I have done while going through carbs. You can agree or disagree does not matter to me
A torch tip cleaner for cleaning the holes in the jets.
You can use a cig lighter and burn the the junk out of the jets.
Put all "O" rings on a small wire and tie them togather.
Dis assemble carbs on a smooth white clean surface.
Have plenty of spray carb cleaner on hand.
Once you get started, work on them until you finish. I should take about 6 to 8 hours to go all the way through them so make sure you have the time.
If you feel the need , take lots of pictures so you can refer back to them.
Just me 2 cents, good luck

[Pete]

.  So now I am thinking I should put the carbs back to stock jetting with a good cleaning of everything and see how it all works. 

Wolf

Good thinking.
Nothing runs as well as clean, properly adjusted carbs, NOTHING.

[twisted]

First time here so I hope I am not waisting anyone's time.... Anyhow I have a 2000 Valk Tourer...with only about 6,000 Mi on it.. Bought it a couple of years ago... Its like new. But I think it sat for a very long time and the carbs are all messed up... I looked at the shop manual for it but it seems like a lot of work to remove the Carb rack via their method.. I have found over the years that there is far easier methods than the shop manual.. any resources out there for a step by step method of getting the carbs out for a cleaning

Thanks in advance

[Bigwolf]

I did not get to work on the carbs yesterday but hope to today.

It's been said by some,,,,, that there is an internal fuel screen in each carburetor.

It sure would add to the knowledge base knowing which is the case.

Would you mind reporting on this particular subject?

Thanks,,, post some pic's if you can!

I will take pic's and post what I found.

Twisted, If you do a search on this board you will find a lot of info for that.  Here is one such posting: http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,34890.0.html

Wolf

[9Ball]

First time here so I hope I am not waisting anyone's time.... Anyhow I have a 2000 Valk Tourer...with only about 6,000 Mi on it.. Bought it a couple of years ago... Its like new. But I think it sat for a very long time and the carbs are all messed up... I looked at the shop manual for it but it seems like a lot of work to remove the Carb rack via their method.. I have found over the years that there is far easier methods than the shop manual.. any resources out there for a step by step method of getting the carbs out for a cleaning

Thanks in advance

the Honda service manual is the best method for removing the carbs as a bank...shouldn't have to split the carbs just to clean them.  Most have found that removing the rear upper engine mount makes the job a bit easier, but there are no magic shortcuts for this one.  It's a lot easier than it looks or reads, just ask questions BEFORE you get into trouble and take pictures if there is any question how something needs to be re-installed or where hoses go during your disassembly.

Don't bother trying to clean the slow jets, just buy new.  This will save you from having to re-do your work (even though practice makes perfect, right?)

Good luck...

[Bigwolf]

Carb Bank on the bench ready to start the tear down. 



I have my high tech tools on hand.  Here is my hi tech very expensive precision made small parts holder. 

The first thing I did was to check the PAIR control valve.  I do not know why I never checked it the other times I had the tank off but I didn't.  It will not hold a vacuum so this is one of my problems with vacuum leaks.  I know a lot of people just desmog and be done with it.  Gotta say I am tempted.  However, If this PAIR system works right, it does help the environment with very little loss of power.  I would rather keep it operational.  Still, that control valve is a cool C note.



OK, the carb bank has been seperated after each carb was number stamped to be sure it goes back in it's original position.  I used wood blocks to support the carb body right under where I was stamping so as not to bend anything. 





Three of the tie bolts came out easy but one waas corroded.  A little penatrating oil and patience got it out with little adoo.  I tapped on the end with a nut on a little to keep the threads good.  Then added some more penetrating oil to both ends and tapped it back the other way a couple of times and it pulled right out.



Right Bank sepperated.




I started with carb #1 and while tearing it appart checked the air cut valve.  Uh OH!  The valve works but will not hold a vacuum on the vacuum side of the valve.  There is, I believe, another reason my poor girl was starvin.  I took a quik look at the cut valves on carbs 3 and #5.  Same results.  They will not hold vacuum.  Also, check out the cracked cut valve hose.





So I took everything off the #1 carb body that seems to be reasonably servicable.  My plan was to to immerse the carb body in a can of Berryman's carb cleaner for about 15 minutes but then I saw this filter which seems to be a non servicable part of the carb body.     Well I do not like the idea of putting that plastic filter in a can of Berryman's.  I might be able to tap into the float valve seat enough to pull it out but that could turn into a real nightmare.  I do not see any listing nor do I see any reference to either the float valve seat or the screen attached to the top of it.  Better to leave that alone!





I looked up the price of new cut valves on HDL.  WTH!  Thought I missread that!   ???  Nooo!  That little piece of plastic not bigger than my thumb they seem to really like.  A lot! $51     You gotta be pullin my chain.

Well that is all for now.  I will post again when I get the parts and get this fat one back together.  Sure hope I can find a better price on the cut valves.  $306 for that just gets me mumblin n grumblin.   

Wolf

[RonW]

**excellent photos and captions** I will be following your chronicle with many others I'm sure.

[98valk]

"it does help the environment with very little loss of power."


has no effect on power, only works off throttle during decel.  and for the environment, your little engine, compared to Air force 1 going every place even for a night out date and the support personel cars, suvs, and jets please stop drinking the cool-aid. the little amount of PPM does nothing to the enviroment except take money out of your pocket cause u had to pay for the PAIR valves.

[Bigwolf]

Thanks RONW,
I am glad you like the post so far.

I guess I am stuck with the high price of air cut valves.  HDL at $51 per valve is still the best price I have found.  It seems this particular valve is specifict to the Valk and only the Valk.  I wonder what the availabilty will be a few years from now.  I also wonder just how much decel popping will occur if these are just blocked off.  These are just there to richen the fuel mix on decel and removal would have no effect on acceleration or power.

CA, 

has no effect on power, only works off throttle during decel.  and for the environment, your little engine, compared to Air force 1 going every place even for a night out date and the support personel cars, suvs, and jets please stop drinking the cool-aid. the little amount of PPM does nothing to the enviroment except take money out of your pocket cause u had to pay for the PAIR valves.

  You are correct except that the PAIR control closes during decell to eliminate popping in the exhaust.  The PAIR reed valves are sucking air into the exhaust under acceleration.   But I am gonna keep the system anyway.

Wolf