Recommended Grease?

[BIG--T]

I am putting on a new rear tire and wonder what the best grease to use for the flange and bearings?

Moly paste , Belray?

Thanks   

[R J]

I use a waterproof front wheel bearing grease.

I buy it at almost any Auto Parts store.   

Since we do most of our parts business with O'Rielly, that is where mine came from.

[BIG--T]

Thanks RJ just saved me a trip to the bike shop.  :cooldude:o

[9Ball]

for the driven flange you want moly paste, not grease.  If unsure whether it calls for grease or paste refer to the service manual.  These really can't be used indiscriminately.

The advice you got above was ok for the front wheel and bearings but not the final drive flange.

[BIG--T]

for the driven flange you want moly paste, not grease.  If unsure whether it calls for grease or paste refer to the service manual.  These really can't be used indiscriminately.

The advice you got above was ok for the front wheel and bearings but not the final drive flange.

Thanks, I don't have a shop manual but heard about the moly paste.

[R J]

for the driven flange you want moly paste, not grease.  If unsure whether it calls for grease or paste refer to the service manual.  These really can't be used indiscriminately.

The advice you got above was ok for the front wheel and bearings but not the final drive flange.

I ain't getting in a pissing match with ya, but that is all MGM has had for 242K miles.    Still original rear end. 

As Forrest Gump would say:

“That's all I have to say about that.”

[NITRO]

Same here, just grease and all has gone well for me. I use Green Grease.

[BIG--T]

for the driven flange you want moly paste, not grease.  If unsure whether it calls for grease or paste refer to the service manual.  These really can't be used indiscriminately.

The advice you got above was ok for the front wheel and bearings but not the final drive flange.

I ain't getting in a pissing match with ya, but that is all MGM has had for 242K miles.    Still original rear end. 

As Forrest Gump would say:

“That's all I have to say about that.”

242,000?  That's good enough fer me!  

[GOOSE]

i use belray waterproof grease, but any grease will do just fine.  there are alot of people here who use just plain old axle grease, and it does a great job.  the moly 60 paste tends to dry out and crack after awhile.  listen to mgm...HE'S RIGHT ON !!!!

[JaysGone]

Water resistant green or marine bearing grease for me too.
Never been an isssue.......
Plenty of moly in most greases made these days.

[whitestroke]

Not sure if you can get to the wheel bearings, mine were sealed and also had an exterior seal.  I did nothing with the bearings, except to check for smoothness and no slop.

If you've got the time why not order the Moly Paste/Grease what Honda recommends.  I used Guard Dog 525 .  Do not mix greases, clean well before you ad fresh grease

While your in there it's only 15 more minutes to (service axle) I mean drive shaft, a must do....

[9Ball]

Not sure if you can get to the wheel bearings, mine were sealed and also had an exterior seal.  I did nothing with the bearings, except to check for smoothness and no slop.

If you've got the time why not order the Moly Paste/Grease what Honda recommends.  I used Guard Dog 525 .  Do not mix greases, clean well before you ad fresh grease

While your in there it's only 15 more minutes to service axle, a must do....

best advice I've read so far...

I'll give you my opinion, since some of the other's are rabidly advocating only grease.

You will find lots of threads on destroyed final drive units.  You will also find many threads here on what grease works best and why.  If it was my bike (and I use this advice, so it's relevant here), I follow the Honda Service Manual's instructions for my maintenance.  If it says grease, I use grease (the brand doesn't matter...the rating for the grease does).  If it says locktite, I use locktite.  The moly paste the manual recommends has a minimum moly spec, so any moly paste that meets the spec will do.  Choose your own brand...there are some good ones out there.

You'll see a lot of "I've been doing this for xxx,xxx,xxx,xxx miles, so it must be OK. Who ARE you to recommend "xyz" that Mother Honda specifies?"  (Just an exaggeration, but you can get my drift).  That's your choice to listen, or not.

If you are a high mileage rider, like some of the recommendations suggest, then these same riders are replacing tires multiple times in a season, are always servicing their final drives, and could probably use olive oil and get the same results (just kidding, but you get my point).

If you are not a high mileage rider and it takes several or more years to wear out a rear tire (like the car tire guys or us lesser riders), then grease alone may not be your best choice.  Again, your decision to listen or not.

I'll stick with recommending what the manual calls for.  I don't have the super-high mileage credentials to throw at you, but I have been a member here for over 12 years and have seen a lot, good and bad.

This is my opinion and one "I" feel best making to a fellow VRCC member.

Good luck...

[9Ball]

for the driven flange you want moly paste, not grease.  If unsure whether it calls for grease or paste refer to the service manual.  These really can't be used indiscriminately.

The advice you got above was ok for the front wheel and bearings but not the final drive flange.

Thanks, I don't have a shop manual but heard about the moly paste.

BTW, There's a shop manual online at Dag of Norway's website.

http://valkyrienorway.com/Tech%20tips%20(links).html

select the flashing red button for the manual download.

[Tundra]

This is a sticky subject...good advice from jr Horton, can't refute RJ's personal experience either.
  You will find as many opinions as riders here. I have tried both. Personal experience from me, the Moly is always dried up when I check it. I have switched to Bel-Ray Waterproof grease on everything on my Valk. I have no problems and the splines are always nice and fresh looking.
  My local dealer doesn't even carry moly paste anymore, they use the Bel-Ray. After finding that out, it was easier for me to switch.
This will boil down to research for you and a personal decision.
Please don't ask about OIL

[9Ball]

or tires, or octane....

We don't have too many local Honda dealers around here either, and their stock is often limited.  I now buy the Moly paste online when I buy other parts....here's a link.

http://www.directlineparts.com/product.asp?pid=4330&str=2

It's actually funny that on the Triumph Rocket forums there have been lots of discussions regarding final drive failures and lack of service for the driven flange by the Triumph dealers and tire-changer shops.  Many of the DIY guys have found that the Honda Moly 60 is a good product for the Rocket final drive and it is often recommended (not by me either).  The Triumph service manual doesn't even mention lubricants for this critical item....and the R3 final drive is over $2200 to replace.

[BIG--T]

Thanks jrhorton, Tundra, and all the people that responded.

Yes i just asked a very stupid question that I deleted!    Yes I will order the parts and just not ride until i get it done! 


Thanks jrhorton for that manual, that's just what I needed!  

[hubcapsc]

the Moly is always dried up when I check it.

The way that molybdenum lubricates is by metal-on-metal...

If you look at the moly-paste ads that are targeted to industry, they go
on and on about stuff like:

     Pressure and friction actually burnish the Molybdenum into the metal offering excellent
     resistance to high pressure and heat.


    a soft paste with a high Molybdenum disulphide content which bonds to metal surfaces
     providing long term dry film lubrication.

I think the "paste" part of moly-paste is just a carrier that allows us to
smear it around easily.

-Mike

[BIG--T]

the Moly is always dried up when I check it.

The way that molybdenum lubricates is by metal-on-metal...

If you look at the moly-paste ads that are targeted to industry, they go
on and on about stuff like:

     Pressure and friction actually burnish the Molybdenum into the metal offering excellent
     resistance to high pressure and heat.


    a soft paste with a high Molybdenum disulphide content which bonds to metal surfaces
     providing long term dry film lubrication.

I think the "paste" part of moly-paste is just a carrier that allows us to
smear it around easily.

-Mike

I also found on another forum  Moly is also that way so it it doesn't sling out on your wheel. I wouldn't know since i haven't used it yet. 

[BIG--T]

for the driven flange you want moly paste, not grease.  If unsure whether it calls for grease or paste refer to the service manual.  These really can't be used indiscriminately.

The advice you got above was ok for the front wheel and bearings but not the final drive flange.

Thanks, I don't have a shop manual but heard about the moly paste.

BTW, There's a shop manual online at Dag of Norway's website.

http://valkyrienorway.com/Tech%20tips%20(links).html

select the flashing red button for the manual download.

Is there something wrong with that link? I downloaded it twice and it says it can't open it, it's "like an email".?? I downloaded the latest version of Adobe and no go. Any ideas? I need that manual bad!  Thanks

[hubcapsc]

Maybe try:  http://www.valkyrienorway.com/download.html

Expect to wait a while with dial-up, but the manual you can get from there is just what you need...

http://www.valkyrienorway.com has some links you could read, removing the rear wheel is one of them...

-Mike

[BIG--T]

Maybe try:  http://www.valkyrienorway.com/download.html

Expect to wait a while with dial-up, but the manual you can get from there is just what you need...

http://www.valkyrienorway.com has some links you could read, removing the rear wheel is one of them...

-Mike

Mike, I've tried those links without success. Here's what it tells me after the download:

" Adobe reader could not open because it is either not a supported file type or because the file has been damaged( for example, it was sent as an email attatchment and wasn't correctly decoded."

[BIG--T]

you might need a newer version of the adobe reader...I believe it is very large file and may be a problem to attach to an email.

Yes, I downloaded the latest version and nada!

[Blackduck]

Another good product is Castrol LMM grease. Used for Constant velocity joints in Front wheel drive cars. The only time they get a re-grease is if a boot tears and they last a long time.
Cheers Steve

[judd]

I am putting on a new rear tire and wonder what the best grease to use for the flange and bearings?

Moly paste , Belray?

Thanks   

Check this recent post, http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,42372.0.html
 ..............I use and recommend  Loctite Moly Paste 51048. It is designed to work under High heat and extreme clamping pressures where ordinary grease will simply be squeezed out leaving little or no lubrication.
I changed to this because on my first tire change I found the original Honda Moly paste dried up and rust colored, The Loctite product remains the same as the day I put it on and the splines are as new.

Product data from their site......... http://www.rshughes.com/images/products/docs/lq46oQvztkLKlcj2CzmnLA.pdf

   

[F6MoRider]

Other than to say follow the manufacturer's recommendations, i won't wade into the moly no grease issue.  I do what he folks who built it say to do.

One major component of rear end maintenance that affects the grease are those 3 little o-rings that seal water out and lubricant in.  Get the replacements from Carolina trike at a cheap price and in a quantity that makes it easy to change them each time you remove the rear end.  Store them between changes so they don't deteriorate.

If you can keep water out and lube in, it will prevent a number of issues and go a gazillion miles.

[lifguardct]

Other than to say follow the manufacturer's recommendations, i won't wade into the moly no grease issue.  I do what he folks who built it say to do.

One major component of rear end maintenance that affects the grease are those 3 little o-rings that seal water out and lubricant in.  Get the replacements from Carolina trike at a cheap price and in a quantity that makes it easy to change them each time you remove the rear end.  Store them between changes so they don't deteriorate.

If you can keep water out and lube in, it will prevent a number of issues and go a gazillion miles.

Thanks, this looks like a better deal than Honda...
http://www.carolinabikeandtrike.com/ORings.htm