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Author Topic: Clunk and now vibration....Drive Shaft trbl?  (Read 2591 times)
ValkSmile
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*****
Posts: 44


Cincinnati, OH


« on: July 09, 2012, 11:37:02 AM »

Hey all, I pulled out of parents the other day and as I accelerated I heard a metal clunk noise and I actually felt the clunk as well. Cry Right after that I noticed a vibration as I rode the rest of the way home. I can feel the vibration best when the bike is in the transition stage between accelerating and decelerating at about any RPM. If I just feather the throttle between accel and decel I can feel the vibration the most, but I can also feel it at about any speed. Could this be a drive shaft issue? Bikes got about 38k on it. I’m pretty sure it’s not a rear end issue because I was in there late last fall and all looked good. I put the bike up on a jack and moved the rear wheel back and forth and I can hear noises like some play in the system, but the noises sure sound like they are coming from the transmission area, not the drive shaft, so I put my old wrecked Valk up on the lift and it sounded exactly the same, so I think these are just normal play/slack sounds. Got any ideas? I'm now afraid to ride it until I find out what wrong, not sure if something will break more and lock up the bike somehow and trow me off. Getting ready to go on night shift next 3 days so if my response is delayed that’s why. Thanks for any input.
« Last Edit: July 10, 2012, 07:25:40 PM by ValkSmile » Logged
Bigwolf
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Posts: 1502


Cookeville, TN


« Reply #1 on: July 09, 2012, 12:09:10 PM »

I would suspect the U-joint.  It is fairly easy to check that.  Just pull the boot back and see how it looks.  If it looks good, then Also try to push it sideways and do this with the U-joint turned to different positions.

Bigwolf
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Valkpilot
Member
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Posts: 2151


What does the data say?

Corinth, Texas


« Reply #2 on: July 09, 2012, 12:44:52 PM »

I would suspect the U-joint.  It is fairly easy to check that.  Just pull the boot back and see how it looks.  If it looks good, then Also try to push it sideways and do this with the U-joint turned to different positions.

Bigwolf

+1

Next in line would be the pinion cup where the drive shaft enters the rear drive.

Since you've got to remove the rear end to get to the u-joint out, it's easy to check both.
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VRCC #19757
IBA #44686
1998 Black Standard
2007 Goldwing 
 
   
F6MoRider
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Posts: 294


Lakeland, FL


« Reply #3 on: July 09, 2012, 02:19:49 PM »

+1 on the u-joint.  Search the VRCC and you'll find an easy process to change it without having to drop the muffler.
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VRCC #4086
2000 Valk Standard dressed with matching Interstate Bags and the Hondaline shield.
ValkSmile
Member
*****
Posts: 44


Cincinnati, OH


« Reply #4 on: July 10, 2012, 07:24:12 PM »

Finally got a chance to pull the boot back and lucky I could actually the broken part of the U-joint. Thanks for the help, now I just gotta find a new one and get it installed, guess I'll try HDL.

Whats up with these U-joints anyway? Did Honda get a bad shipment during manufacturing? I have a 99 I/S manufactured in 1/99 with 98k on it and have not had a single prob with the I-joint, and I used to ride 2 up and pull a trailer with it all the time, once that got wrecked I bought another 99 I/S manufactured in 4/99 with 38k on it and the U-joint is already gone. Any ideas why some of these bikes have trbl and some don't?

Here is a pic of the broken U-joint.



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indybobm
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Posts: 1602

Franklin, Indiana VRCC # 5258


« Reply #5 on: July 11, 2012, 07:29:33 AM »

Please post a picture of the u-joint when you get it out. That looks terrible and scary.
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So many roads, so little time
VRCC # 5258
Big Tom 10628
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Posts: 720


Surprise AZ.


« Reply #6 on: July 11, 2012, 05:41:34 PM »

Mine was Manufactured 1/99 and I got 41K out of the original U-Joint before it grenaded
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1999 Valkyrie Interstate
2006 Gold Wing
Disco
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Posts: 4901


Armed Man=Citizen; Unarmed Man=Subject

Republic of Texas


« Reply #7 on: July 11, 2012, 07:01:21 PM »

Hmmm...  Mine was manufactured 5/99 and the original u-joint came out in two pieces at 22,537 miles.   tickedoff
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2000 Bumblebee "Tourer", 98 Yellow & Cream Tourer, 97 Rescue blower bike
22 CRF450RL, 19 BMW R1250RT
78 CB550K
71 Suzuki MT50 Trailhopper


VRCC 27,916                   IBA 44,783
KSDragonRider
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Posts: 777


The beatings will continue until morale improves

Salina, KS


« Reply #8 on: July 11, 2012, 07:23:42 PM »

Just replaced the ujoint on a 2000 standard with 25k on it. Some seem to last forever, some dont.
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Dalen & Shay -> Salina, KS
VRCC Member #33950
1999 Red & Black Valkyrie Interstate
RainMaker
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Posts: 6626


VRCC#24130 - VRCCDS#0117 - IBA#48473

Arlington, TX


« Reply #9 on: July 11, 2012, 09:15:31 PM »

Whats up with these U-joints anyway? Did Honda get a bad shipment during manufacturing? I have a 99 I/S manufactured in 1/99 with 98k on it and have not had a single prob with the I-joint, and I used to ride 2 up and pull a trailer with it all the time, once that got wrecked I bought another 99 I/S manufactured in 4/99 with 38k on it and the U-joint is already gone. Any ideas why some of these bikes have trbl and some don't?

From what I've been told, the explanation is that some of these sealed yoke/u-joints got more grease than others during manufacturing.  Since you can't add grease to the factory u-joints, they are what they are and you can't tell from looking at them or by the age.  

One of the members, Free Pass from California, came up with an affordable yoke/u-joint that can be greased via zert fitting and allows for the actual u-joint in the yoke to be replaced by one that is very common and available at almost any auto parts store.  I have one of those ready to go on after the factory unit gives out, which may be a long time or tomorrow.
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2005 BMW R1200 GS
2000 Valkyrie Interstate
1998 Valkyrie Tourer
1981 GL1100I GoldWing
1972 CB500K1
Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008
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Posts: 3025

Huffman, Texas close to Houston


« Reply #10 on: July 12, 2012, 06:28:05 AM »

I replaced mine on my 2000 interstate at 100 thousand miles no problem kept for a spare. Guess I got a good one. Gonna have it rebuilt.
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jmann
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Posts: 253


Mesa,Az.


« Reply #11 on: July 12, 2012, 07:06:07 AM »

Rainmaker, any chance you could share the information link or perhaps the part # of the automotive replacement u joint that fits the valk?   cooldude
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RainMaker
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VRCC#24130 - VRCCDS#0117 - IBA#48473

Arlington, TX


« Reply #12 on: July 12, 2012, 10:26:25 AM »

Rainmaker, any chance you could share the information link or perhaps the part # of the automotive replacement u joint that fits the valk?   cooldude


Here's the topic link http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,36877.0.html


and the u-joint is a Precision Universal #392.  Available at any Napa, Kreagan's or O'Reileys Auto Parts for Approx. $20.  However, the yoke has to be modified to use it - read the info on the link.  I bought the modified yoke and u-joint from Free Pass and now I'll only have to buy the #392 u-joint if it gives out.

RainMaker

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2005 BMW R1200 GS
2000 Valkyrie Interstate
1998 Valkyrie Tourer
1981 GL1100I GoldWing
1972 CB500K1
jmann
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Posts: 253


Mesa,Az.


« Reply #13 on: July 12, 2012, 11:16:09 AM »

Thanks Mr. Rainmaker. I will get prepared just in case.
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Hoser
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child of the sixties VRCC 17899

Auburn, Kansas


« Reply #14 on: July 12, 2012, 12:03:10 PM »

Still running the original at 104000 miles, I carry a new one with me when I ride long.  I believe it can be replaced by moving the boot out of the way, but I have no idea on the procedure.  Perhaps someone could educate me?  Hoser   ???   
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ValkSmile
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Posts: 44


Cincinnati, OH


« Reply #15 on: July 12, 2012, 12:30:50 PM »

Here is one procedure to replace the u-joint.

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/ujoint.html

Does anyone know if the newer OEM u-joints are lasting any longer than the factory ones?

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Valkpilot
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Posts: 2151


What does the data say?

Corinth, Texas


« Reply #16 on: July 12, 2012, 01:23:31 PM »

Here is one procedure to replace the u-joint.

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/ujoint.html

Does anyone know if the newer OEM u-joints are lasting any longer than the factory ones?




The "new" ones have been out less than a year, so I doubt there's any data yet.

Actual u-joint failure is pretty rare: http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,26594.0.html

Of course, it is significant to those such as yourself that actually experience a failure, but it is not that common. 

From your picture, it looks pretty rusty and grimy. 

Here's mine at 60k miles just as it came off the bike:



I'd look closely at the boot for cracks and tears.  Also, one of the premature failures I know of was due to a boot that wasn't correctly installed, leaving the u-joint suceptible to contamination.

The insides of most swingarms I've seen have been pretty clean and free of rust, so look for somewhere that dirt and water are infiltrating the swingarm.
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VRCC #19757
IBA #44686
1998 Black Standard
2007 Goldwing 
 
   
ValkSmile
Member
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Posts: 44


Cincinnati, OH


« Reply #17 on: July 13, 2012, 07:30:10 AM »

WOW that is pretty clean compared to mine. I have not taken the bike apart yet, but from what I can see by just pulling the boot back it did look rusty and dirty in there and I just thought that was normal. Thanks so much for posting your pic, when I disassemble I will inspect. This dirt and rust very well may be why my u-joint failed prematurely.
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