Mechanical Speedo replacement.

[JaysGone]

When I bought my Valk.
The PO had etched the glass on both the speedo and tach.
As this blocks my view of the gauges.
I have been thinking og getting a new after market mechanical speedometer.

Does anyone know the ratio of the Standards speedo??
Most mechanical Ive seen say it is 2-1 and for Harleys.

[wdvalk]

Im interested also,where have you found mech. speedos?

[JaysGone]

Here for starters for bikes
http://www.phatperformanceparts.com/SearchResults.asp?searchWText=&sortBy=&page=&Extensive_Search=&Config_SearchResultsRows=&RefineBy_Manufacturer=&search=speedometers&mfg=

Car sites there are tons

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&Ntk=all&Jnar=0&Ne=1%2B2%2B3%2B13%

2B1147708&searchTerm=speedometers
http://www.summitracing.com/search/?keyword=speedometers&dds=1

I know nothing about them for a bike.
Im sure AutoMeters stuff will work but they arent cheap.
They are for any type of car engine ever made.
But Id rather spend less then $100 on something like this if its possile.

The ones at Phats are much less expensive but for 2 cylinder engines for the most part..

[John Schmidt]

Jay, you could switch to one that is driven by the I/S sender(not mechanical), then use the Speedo Healer to adjust it to work with your bike. I did that on a friend's Valk, he found a handlebar setup from a VTX1800C(believe that's the model) which had the elec. driven speedo and tach, but needed to be adjusted to work with the Valk sender. Worked out great, but I set it to read 2-3 mph fast since he likes to twist the wrist at times. That gave him a small fudge factor and doesn't affect the odometer, which is usually the case with most speedos. The speedo can be off by a large amount, but the odometer is still accurate.

With the Speedo Healer, you go on their site, plug in the number the speedo is reading and the number it should be reading. Their system then tells you what adjustment to make on the Healer module...really simple and very accurate.

http://www.healtech-electronics.com/

[JaysGone]

Appreciate the info John.
I read up on the speedo healer.
I didnt know you could transplant the sender etc.
Something to look into for sure.

There are from time to time speedos out there but very expensive as is most used parts for the Valk.
I really wanted to stay in a moderate range.
I can see mine during the day time just not one wit at night.
I find it hard to imagine why one of the POs did what they did.
The glass cant be replaced nor polished out its so thin.
What a dumbass this guy was to etch the glass face.
Its so danged annoying to look at at times.

[Bone]

I can see mine during the day time just not one wit at night.

Most are difficult to see at night. I put in brighter bulbs and can actually see them. Don't ride much at night there is a large deer population in my area.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,33054.0.html

[John Schmidt]

Jay, the driver for the sending unit is the same on all Valks. To change to an I/S sender, just remove the screw holding it on and mount the new one in its place. The schematics in the shop manual tell you which wires are outputs, ground, etc.  I ran the wires back under the seat and laid the Healer on top of the battery cover, spliced into it and then ran the wires from there to the new speedo. This is what I mounted for my friend, has elec. input from an I/S sender but analog display. The sender output voltage is the same on both the Valk and the VTX, but the sine wave was different so that prompted the use of the Healer.

[JaysGone]

I can see mine during the day time just not one wit at night.

Most are difficult to see at night. I put in brighter bulbs and can actually see them. Don't ride much at night there is a large deer population in my area.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,33054.0.html

Ive already done the brighter side marker bulb mod and its still too dull for me.
Im diabetic and I do have cataracts. I dont ride at night unless forced to.
Even then I better know 100% where Im going as I cant see far enough ahead to ride safely.
But with that eaching its just palin annoying during the daytime as I glance down to see my speed.
Not that I look to often.

[JaysGone]

Jay, the driver for the sending unit is the same on all Valks. To change to an I/S sender, just remove the screw holding it on and mount the new one in its place. The schematics in the shop manual tell you which wires are outputs, ground, etc.  I ran the wires back under the seat and laid the Healer on top of the battery cover, spliced into it and then ran the wires from there to the new speedo. This is what I mounted for my friend, has elec. input from an I/S sender but analog display. The sender output voltage is the same on both the Valk and the VTX, but the sine wave was different so that prompted the use of the Healer.

I dont mean to be argumentative.
Unless you mean the sender for an IS is also on the front wheel, left side of the axle.
Same place but electrical........then no issue.

That pod is from a VTX??
I could live with that.
I dont feel a tach is even needed in actuallity on a bike.
I do not know one model of this bike from the other.
As a matter of fact.
I had never even seen a Valkyrie before buying mine.
I havent even seen another one on the roads down here or in NY.
All I know is what I have learned myself with the Standard I have.
So please excuse what is in my case total ingnorance of the different models.

[tank_post142]

pull the gauges run them down to the local speedo shop and have them replace the lens. thats probably the cheapest way to go without having to mess with them yourself.

[JaysGone]

pull the gauges run them down to the local speedo shop and have them replace the lens. thats probably the cheapest way to go without having to mess with them yourself.

Do you know of any real speed shops in Broward or Palm Beach area??
My co-worker and I were just talking about the lack of real speed shops around here in general.
We went down to South Beach Classics last month and he bought a full blown 63 Merc Comet Fuely and nuttin around here in the lower Palm Beach upper Broward area for real speed parts that we know of.

[JaysGone]

Ok I found a VTX speedo and even a NOS sensor.
Over $200 for thoose 2 parts.
Plus a healer......

There was a used speedo on FleaBay 179$$ for that.

While I appreciate all the ideas.
None are within my budget of near ZERO dollars for this part of the project to resolve.
Im not spending alot of $$$$ just for a clear piece of glass I can cut myself.
The danged glass cover is only glued to begin with.
Ill get it off somehow.
If I break the speedo itself.
Then a used one might be my only choice.

The speed shop if a real one exists near me is a possiblity.

So thanks for all the suggestions guys.

Its a shame...........a simple mechanical speedometer for a "normal" bike can be had for less then $50.
The odds Im going to sink over 12K into this bike to trike it is growing less and less by the day.
Im actually starting to like riding the bike as it is otherwise.
Just not liking the prices for parts etc etc.
No cheap fixes for this 14 year old Queen.

[Blackduck]

What you are looking for is an Instrument shop not a Speed shop, doubt the US is much different than Aus, We have several companies in my home city that specialise in auto instrument repair. Try Googling for them.
Cheers Steve

[JaysGone]

What you are looking for is an Instrument shop not a Speed shop, doubt the US is much different than Aus, We have several companies in my home city that specialise in auto instrument repair. Try Googling for them.
Cheers Steve

Steve
I will but Im not hopeful.
No different then when I broke my radiator.
There are none to zero qualified skilled people doing this stuff here anymore.
Im a dinosaur of a locksmith.
I fix things.
No one who works with me can do or is interested in learning what I know.
95% here just toss and replace.

Im sure I can find a ton of shops that for the right price will turn an odometer back.
But fix the busted plastic???
Nah, just buy a new one.
Thats one reason this country isnt what it used to be.
Nobody left with any skills.................


Just Googled a ton of repair places all over the country.
To a one none mentioned replacing glass.
Just fixing crap with new gutz <clocks> or  working on modern clusters.
Got a speedo from a 32 Ford??
That they can fix for 180$$
Needs glass........call for pricing.

Screwit.

[Blackduck]

I hear that, I'm a dinosaur mechanic.
Had a quick look at Google, input automotive speedo repairs, did not see a around Delray , around Tampa yes. May pay to check at your nearest auto repair shop (particulary anyone dealing with old cars) they may know where to have repairs done.
Cheers Steve

[BF]

Jay, the driver for the sending unit is the same on all Valks. To change to an I/S sender, just remove the screw holding it on and mount the new one in its place. The schematics in the shop manual tell you which wires are outputs, ground, etc.  I ran the wires back under the seat and laid the Healer on top of the battery cover, spliced into it and then ran the wires from there to the new speedo. This is what I mounted for my friend, has elec. input from an I/S sender but analog display. The sender output voltage is the same on both the Valk and the VTX, but the sine wave was different so that prompted the use of the Healer.

Just a thought, but some interprising person might could market a VTX speedo kit to folks with fairings such as the Woody that require you to relocate the OEM guage set.  

Don't know if you have to use the VTX risers with it or not though.....but they should be a direct fit I'd think.

Using the VTX speedo instead of moving the OEM guages up to the bars might give it a nice clean look.  



Question for John.  Using that set-up, does the odometer work on the VTX speedo too....or do you just get the speedo function?

[John Schmidt]

Unless you mean the sender for an IS is also on the front wheel, left side of the axle.
Same place but electrical........then no issue.

You're correct. Mounts exactly the same way and in the same place as your current one does. Both are held in place with a phillips screw and driven by the same part that's mounted internally on the wheel. The only difference is the I/S unit creates an elec. impulse with an internal magnet and pickup, your current one just drives the cable attached to your speedo. The pics below show what I did so I could see my gauges, used a blue license plate bolt on each side, has a blue LED in it to match the lights in my smaller gauges. First pic is a "work in progress" to show how I mounted it. The second one shows the effect. I just aimed them at the face and I can now see the gauges in any light. Been on there for a few years now.

[John Schmidt]

Yes, the odometer also works. As for mounting, the two units together create the handlebar clamp for you. As for finding another unit like that, they're like dinosaur eggs....impossible to find since they quit making them. I believe they were marketed by Kuryakyn and made for them by Dakota Digital. Don't quote me on that, just sticks in my mind that was the deal. If anyone finds a setup like that and doesn't want it, let me know. Getting the tach to work was simple. One wire to ground, one to 12v for lighting, one to a coil....just like hooking up an old dwell/tach gauge for setting points back in the day.

[JaysGone]

Yours looks great!!!!!
The speedo pod can be had.
I found one less the tach on PinWall.
Sensors out there too.

But Ill have to end up busting mine to bits before Im investing that kind of dollars.
Its been a year since I had the covers off the speedo.
Im going to take the cover off and see how in heck the glass is actually sitting in the chrome trim ring.
I know I tried to just pry it off back then and that isnt the way.

I used to do glass in my yuuth.........
I can cut circles, some Im not horrible concerned about wrecking it.

But

I just wish someone knew the answer to my original question.
Ive been on this puter all dammed day and cant get an answer to the ratio.
There are a ton of mechanical speedos out there.
Cheap too.

Again yours looks greeeeeeeeeeat.

[tank_post142]

give these guys a call:

 J and J Auto Electric

4705 Southern Boulevard
West Palm Beach, FL 33415
(561) 686-4924