She just overheated (it's the Alt.)

[SpidyJ]

.........pulling in the gate to work after the 12 mile drive. The light blinked a few times as I parked her then she stalled.
Fan does not run.
Now I worry all day. Guess I gotta call the wife to come pick me up so I can go home and get my trailer.
Dang it!!

[salty1]

Sorry! Electrical? Keep us posted. 

[old2soon]

Simple stuff first. Is there enough coolant in the system? Let us know please. RIDE SAFE.

[MP]

Check coolant in radiator.  Sometimes it will NOT suck back from the bottle under the left side cover, and gradually gets lower.  Can be helped by bending down ears on rad cap.

MP

[Patrick]

Like said, checking the coolant at the radiator is the first place to look. Remember the set screw in the cap. Does the fan usually need to come on for this ride ? Did the engine actually get hot and make steam, or, did the light just flash on ? Depending on the year and model will determine how to diagnose the problem any further. Generally on the earlier models just grounding the radiator coolant temp switch will/should turn the fan on to determine whether the fan or the switch is defective.

[SpidyJ]

Like said, checking the coolant at the radiator is the first place to look. Remember the set screw in the cap. Does the fan usually need to come on for this ride ? Did the engine actually get hot and make steam, or, did the light just flash on ? Depending on the year and model will determine how to diagnose the problem any further. Generally on the earlier models just grounding the radiator coolant temp switch will/should turn the fan on to determine whether the fan or the switch is defective.

It's a 99-IS.  The coolant is topped off and changed a year ago.  The overflow reservoir is right at the line.
No steam or smell even.  Light blinked two or three times as I parked it then it stalled.
The fan comes on in the Summer for sure during this ride. Not lately as it's been much cooler. IF the coolant gets hot the fan should come on right?  Why else would it overheat unless the pump stopped pumpin!

[salty1]

Did you "burp" it when you changed and top off the coolant? The stahl aspect of your ride is puzzling to me. Did the bike smell hot?

[SpidyJ]

Did you "burp" it when you changed and top off the coolant? The stahl aspect of your ride is puzzling to me. Did the bike smell hot?

Yeah she smelled hot but no leaking antifreeze.

[Rio Wil]

I am not so sure your alternator didn't die while on the way to work. By the time you got there, the battery would be very low causing the engine to die and the temp light to blink.  You said it wouldn't start, does the engine crank over strongly and/or have you measured battery/alternator voltage?

[Valker]

...and if the fan just isn't coming on, the relay is bad or a wire is unplugged.

[Jeff K]

I'm betting it is electrical not heat.
Will it start now?
Is the battery dead?

[Jeff K]

...and if the fan just isn't coming on, the relay is bad or a wire is unplugged.

No relay on the fan, just a temp switch on the radiator

[SpidyJ]

I'm betting it is electrical not heat.
Will it start now?
Is the battery dead?

She just started right up.  No hot light.
I'm at work and don;t have my manual. Exactly where is the temp sensor?

[Patrick]

The switch is on the left bottom side of the radiator. Remove the wire, ground it with key switch on and the fan should run. If the fan runs the switch is bad which is probably the problem.
Since the coolant level is where it should be and the air temp is cool, I don't think I'd be afraid to run it as long as you can keep air moving thru the radiator.
Any idea why the engine stalled ? If the coolant wasn't too hot [boiling/gurgling] the engine should stay running unless your IS version has some other failsafe item I'm not aware of.

[Jeff K]

The sensor for the light is on the thermostat housing. The switch for the fan is on the radiator, lower left inside corner.

[SpidyJ]

OK, this is definitely an electrical problem.
She starts right up.
The hot light blinks on/off with the directionals.
When I rev the engine the odometer and the gas gauge flash full and all 8's.
The fan wasn't running cause I didn;t let it run long enough.
I wonder if it's safe to ride home 12 miles??
She stumbled once or twice while I revved it.

UPDATE # 2: battery dead

[eric in md]

alt. or bad battery .. keep us up to date if its not running right its the battery ..

[SpidyJ]

alt. or bad battery .. keep us up to date if its not running right its the battery ..

So while running, the alt should put out 14-14.5 V ......correct?
If not, it comes out.

[Oklahoma_Valk]

If you can find someone to jump you, you can probably make it to a local autoparts store or walmart to get a new battery. If you keep your revs up, (1500+)  I think the valk will run on just the alternator.

[SpidyJ]

If you can find someone to jump you, you can probably make it to a local autoparts store or walmart to get a new battery. If you keep your revs up, (1500+)  I think the valk will run on just the alternator.

But if the alternator is bad the battery will run down pretty fast and I'll get stuck right?

[Oklahoma_Valk]

If you can find someone to jump you, you can probably make it to a local autoparts store or walmart to get a new battery. If you keep your revs up, (1500+)  I think the valk will run on just the alternator.

But if the alternator is bad the battery will run down pretty fast and I'll get stuck right?

Yes, that is right. However, I would bet that the battery is what is bad.

If the alternator went bad, it would have quit charging your battery on your ride in. This would have left the battery with "X" amount of juice left to power the plugs, electrical, etc. More than likely, you would have died before reaching your destination.

If the battery went bad, your alternator would allow the motor to still run as long as your RPMs were high enough. Upon arriving at your destination, the bike dies....because your RPMs are at 1000 or less.

Bad battery.

If you cannot find anyone to jump you, or get a ride to the auto parts store, I've heard you can put the valk in second, roll, and pop the clutch, and she will start. I think I'd try to get a ride to the autoparts store first though.

Hope you get it figured out!

-OKie

[Jeff K]

If you can find someone to jump you, you can probably make it to a local autoparts store or walmart to get a new battery. If you keep your revs up, (1500+)  I think the valk will run on just the alternator.

But if the alternator is bad the battery will run down pretty fast and I'll get stuck right?

Yes, that is right. However, I would bet that the battery is what is bad.

If the alternator went bad, it would have quit charging your battery on your ride in. This would have left the battery with "X" amount of juice left to power the plugs, electrical, etc. More than likely, you would have died before reaching your destination.

If the battery went bad, your alternator would allow the motor to still run as long as your RPMs were high enough. Upon arriving at your destination, the bike dies....because your RPMs are at 1000 or less.

Bad battery.

If you cannot find anyone to jump you, or get a ride to the auto parts store, I've heard you can put the valk in second, roll, and pop the clutch, and she will start. I think I'd try to get a ride to the autoparts store first though.

Hope you get it figured out!

-OKie

If the Alternator is not working, and the battery is dead, you can push it from here to china and it will never start. The EMU needs power.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

On my I/S the first thing I lost was the dash display. The bike will still run for a short period of time. I pulled my headlight fuse and made it about thirty miles after the display died. 

[NJF6Cowboy]

Just for Ha Ha's check your starter relay. Mine 99 Interstate was doing all kinds of weird electrical problems on my return trip from Yellowstone this past summer. Temp light, radio, dash lights, hard to start if warm, seemed to be running hot, till it finally died in Penn. 150 miles from home. Repaced melted fuse  in relay and was able to ride home.

[SpidyJ]

On my I/S the first thing I lost was the dash display. The bike will still run for a short period of time. I pulled my headlight fuse and made it about thirty miles after the display died. 

And then what?  Was it the battery or the alternator?  This is similar to what mine is doing.

[vanagon40]

Alternator or Battery?

Get your bike home.  Try charging the battery with a charger.  If the battery will not take a charge, you have a problem with your battery.

Get the bike started (whether with the battery or a jump start).  If you do not have almost 14 volts or better at the battery with the bike at above idle (maybe 2500 RPMs), you ave an alternator problem.

I suppose it MIGHT be possible that if you have a very defective battery, it could drag down the alternator voltage.  But, if the voltage at the battery with the bike running is around 14v or better, your alternator should be good to go.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

 It was the alt. ended up renting a truck and hauling it home 220 miles from the hill country. I got a goldwing alt from HDL overnighted to the house for about 245 bucks and was running the next day.

[SpidyJ]

Alternator or Battery?

Get your bike home.  Try charging the battery with a charger.  If the battery will not take a charge, you have a problem with your battery.

Get the bike started (whether with the battery or a jump start).  If you do not have almost 14 volts or better at the battery with the bike at above idle (maybe 2500 RPMs), you ave an alternator problem.

I suppose it MIGHT be possible that if you have a very defective battery, it could drag down the alternator voltage.  But, if the voltage at the battery with the bike running is around 14v or better, your alternator should be good to go.

Thanks, will test tonight.. Got hit with a virus yesterday..........oowie, ugh.

[Patrick]

Virus ? You or the 'puter ? Both are going around.

[SpidyJ]

me..........

[SpidyJ]

Put on the Battery Tender for 24 hours:

Battery 12.0 V (Bike not running)
Starts right up.
Battery @ 2500-3000 RPM 11.05V

Will order a new alt. and rebuild the old prolly.

Thanks for all the help dudes!!!!!

[Patrick]

This was interesting.

[salty1]

SpidyJ I would get that battery tested ( put a load on it) to make sure it's good.

[old2soon]

When my alt went out it took the battery with it. In ALL fairness the battery came with the Phatt Ghurl and i have zero idea how old it really was. Right after i bought the lady i took the battery out and COULD NOT find a manufacture or install date. And my first indication of problems was whe the L E D display and the instruments crapped out. If yer tight on bucks go to the M A R S website. He is in Indiana and is a straight up guy to deal with. RIDE SAFE.

[SpidyJ]

When my alt went out it took the battery with it. In ALL fairness the battery came with the Phatt Ghurl and i have zero idea how old it really was. Right after i bought the lady i took the battery out and COULD NOT find a manufacture or install date. And my first indication of problems was whe the L E D display and the instruments crapped out. If yer tight on bucks go to the M A R S website. He is in Indiana and is a straight up guy to deal with. RIDE SAFE.

I've only owned her a little over a year and the battery was brand new then.  I will for sure have her tested cause it's free..........and if it's free, it's for me!!!

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

'97 Goldwing Aspencade
Part # is 31100-MT2-015
"The terminal & plastic insulator are different where you connect the alternator battery wire. You have to take off the capacitor that is mounted on the Gold Wing alternator and rotate the front housing to match the holes from the Valkyrie model so that it will fit."
 

As per Ron Ayers Parts Fiche, alternator 31100-MT2-015 fits on the 30 following GL1500 Goldwing models :

Honda GOLD WING GL1500 (1988 to 1990)

Honda GOLD WING ASPENCADE GL1500A (1991 to 2000)

Honda GOLD WING INTERSTATE GL1500I (1991 to 1996)

Honda GOLD WING SE GL1500SE (1990 to 2000)
 A lot cheaper that a valk alt and works like a charm.  Mine has been on for over 60'000 miles. You just have to clock it.
 

[SpidyJ]

Just had the battery checked and it is fine.
Alternator is out.
Waiting for the new one to come tomorrow.

[Patrick]

I hope that fixes it. If you're keeping the old alternator, you could take it apart and give it a look. These have a tendency to pull apart/open a rotor wire. If thats the case it might be able to fix somewhat easily.

[Challenger]

Glad you figured it out. A buddy's Goldwing quit charging last fall. We pulled it apart and found one brush stuck in the holder. I soldered in a new set I keep around for the Valk and all is well. Cheap fix.

[SpidyJ]

Ya know, I must say......I have literally pulled hundreds of alternators in my day as a part time mechanic.
I have never seen such a dirty piece. Such dust, grime and dust bunnies clogging the vent holes.