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Author Topic: Mass Terminal Connections to Battery Terminals  (Read 1377 times)
Thrud
Member
*****
Posts: 103


2000 Valkyrie Interstate

Olathe, KS


« on: January 31, 2013, 02:52:17 PM »

Fellow riders,

I've got so many ring terminals for powered accessories connected to my battery's +/- posts that it's difficult to get the battery cover installed.  I know that Electrical Connection makes a Master Ground Block as listed at the following site: http://electricalconnection.com/power-distribution/power-distribution-main.htm. 

This may solve my problem with the ground connections, but I need something similar but with a cover to shield the power connections from shorting to a stray wire or the bike's frame.  Anyone have a solution that will handle at least five connections and a 10-gauge wire connection to the + battery post?  Inline fuse assumed.

Thanks,
Steve
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BigBad1
Member
*****
Posts: 112


1999 Interstate

Garner NC


« Reply #1 on: January 31, 2013, 04:57:20 PM »

I have a separate fuse panel from Eastern Beaver. It's a little pricey but worth it to have all the fuses in one place and cleans up the battery. You can also get it with a relay and use the headlight switch for a trigger so it will turn off all the accessories when your starter is engaged.  Mine is just tucked in the spot intended for the owner's manual.  Made in Japan NOT China. Anyway, here the link if interested. http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/fuseboxes.html Good luck.
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custom1
Member
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Posts: 333


01 Interstate

SW Pa


« Reply #2 on: January 31, 2013, 05:51:56 PM »

Steve, That link doesn't work. I think you need the remove the last period, then it will work. Many here have added an aux fuse panel. There are a few different ones including the eastern beaver one that BigBad1 has.
Here is a link to a thread with the cheapest solution. The panel was about $10 at Autozone when this was posted. Not sure how much it is now. I have not done this yet but plan to.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,4098.0.html

If you do a search for "aux fuse panel" you will get a couple of pages of options. Going with an aux panel really cleans up the battery area, and will get rid of all the inline fuses you probably have.
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John
Motorider
Member
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Posts: 162


Pennsylvania


« Reply #3 on: January 31, 2013, 06:25:17 PM »

I used a Blue Sea fuse block. I installed it under the right side cover. Works great.
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BF
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Posts: 9932


Fort Walton Beach, Florida I'm a simple man, I like pretty, dark haired woman and breakfast food.


« Reply #4 on: January 31, 2013, 06:40:02 PM »

I have a separate fuse panel from Eastern Beaver. It's a little pricey but worth it to have all the fuses in one place and cleans up the battery. You can also get it with a relay and use the headlight switch for a trigger so it will turn off all the accessories when your starter is engaged.  Mine is just tucked in the spot intended for the owner's manual.  Made in Japan NOT China. Anyway, here the link if interested. http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/fuseboxes.html Good luck.



Ditto what BigBad said.  When I was looking for a fuse panel, I did a lot of looking around, research and asking alot of questions. 

I have the PC8 also.  Behind the battery box where the owner's manual goes is a perfect place for it. 
I
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I can't help about the shape I'm in
I can't sing, I ain't pretty and my legs are thin
But don't ask me what I think of you
I might not give the answer that you want me to
 

fordmano
Member
*****
Posts: 1457


San Jose, CA. 1999 I/S 232 miles when bought 11/05

San Jose, CA.


« Reply #5 on: January 31, 2013, 09:37:43 PM »

Or if you don't want to add a fuse block for some reason there is another option for ganging multiple wires together, this is what I added to my setup but I also used a aux/fuse panel with mutiple relays attached.

I just bent a plain simple flat steel bar I had from some sort of connecter thats why it has those little ears folded up in the corners. So attached to the battery is the original main battery cable and this flat bar.

it's not pretty but you can improve on this option I am sure.



 It will still be mostly covered with the original stock rubber boot.


And a this is what I coated it all with.
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What Exactly is Normal? crazy2 crazy2

83GS550
93XR650L TARD!
97WR250
99ValkyrieI/S Tri-tone
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05DRZ-125
Gryphon Rider
Member
*****
Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #6 on: February 01, 2013, 06:22:58 AM »

My setup is pictured below.  The top pic shows my ground bar, tied to the frame via the centre cover mounting bolt.  The power to the fuse block is supplied from the bottom of the fusible link, shown in the top pic; the thick red wire behind the thin red wire that powers the large cylindrical compressor.

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Thrud
Member
*****
Posts: 103


2000 Valkyrie Interstate

Olathe, KS


« Reply #7 on: February 01, 2013, 08:59:18 AM »

Your posts led me to this possible solution from Blue Sea Systems.  Let me know what you think.

DualBus Plus 150 Ampere Common BusBar:

http://bluesea.com/category/82/35/productline/186

I figure I can mount this to the front of my battery box and run a 10 gauge connection from each bus to the battery terminals.  I then get to move all those other leads off of the battery posts onto this box.  That way, I have only the bike's main +/- cables and this box's 10 gauge connections to the battery posts.  Sweet!

I already have a FuzeBlock FZ-1 that's full up with other connections.  This bus box is to be used with other accessory connections that have inline fuses.

Steve
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RP#62
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Posts: 4066


Gilbert, AZ


WWW
« Reply #8 on: February 01, 2013, 09:08:57 AM »

If you have several additions, but perhaps not enough to warrant a separate fuse block, an alternative it to attach to other spots in the system that are electrically the same as the positive battery terminal.  These include the hot side of the starter relay and the system side of the main fuse.  You just piggy back on the existing connections.

-RP
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