Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
July 08, 2025, 07:37:00 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
Inzane 17
Pages: [1]   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: Front brakes dragging when cold  (Read 1587 times)
pancho
Member
*****
Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« on: November 15, 2014, 07:07:24 AM »

Hey guys,,, I have noticed that my front brakes are dragging when it is cold in the mornings,, sometimes holding the wheel fast. It passes and  everything loosens up after riding awhile.....    If I really push on the calipers, I can get them to back off enough to allow me to go, but they are still dragging and squeaking until everything gets warm,,,  There is no pushing the bike around,,, too tight!!

What needs fixin here to take care of this??? don't want to be replacing pads and rotors every time I turn around.
Logged

The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14776


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #1 on: November 15, 2014, 07:19:50 AM »

How old is the brake fluid?  Changing the fluid (if old) and cleaning the pistons and making sure the pins the pads slide on are clean and smooth may help.  Use some fine emory cloth to smooth out any burrs on the pins.

Also make sure the axle is completely seated in the forks.  The head of the axle should not protrude ANY outside the edge of the fork.

Logged
pancho
Member
*****
Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #2 on: November 15, 2014, 08:22:37 AM »

Hey Chris,, how is that arm and shoulder doing??   

I know the slides on the calipers are good, clean and freshly lubricated because I had them off and disassembled for painting last year,,,, also pushed the pistons out as far as they would go without breaking the seal to clean them...  the fluid, may be original as I have never changed it,, do you think it could be causing a problem like this when cold???  It is not getting below freezing in the shop where the bike is.
Logged

The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14776


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #3 on: November 15, 2014, 08:27:45 AM »

Hey Chris,, how is that arm and shoulder doing??   

I know the slides on the calipers are good, clean and freshly lubricated because I had them off and disassembled for painting last year,,,, also pushed the pistons out as far as they would go without breaking the seal to clean them...  the fluid, may be original as I have never changed it,, do you think it could be causing a problem like this when cold???  It is not getting below freezing in the shop where the bike is.

Arm and shoulder are doing great.  Thanks for asking. Im only to 30 good push-ups at a time so far but getting stronger.  Getting old sucks as far as recovering after an injury.  But NO PAIN and almost 100% range of motion.

If fluid is original it cant be doing you any favors.  What about that axle?
Logged
pancho
Member
*****
Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #4 on: November 15, 2014, 09:07:33 AM »

30 pushups!!! are you kidding me??? I just tried and did eleven "good ones" before I had enough,,,  from the sounds of it, I'd say you are well on your way to a complete recovery.

Well, you are right about the fluid, but I can't think of a mechanism that would cause it to act like that,,  the axle is in the right place,, just checked,, (I learned how to do the front wheel pretty early on to getting the bike). I think I will crack the bleeders just to see if it is fluid pressure causing the problem... 
 
Just building a new motorcycle shop and the bike is in there with all the construction materials and tools,, and all the bike tools and lift are in the old shop,, makes it a bit hard to do anything in the cold,, but I can crack the bleeders to see if that takes the pressure off.
Logged

The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14776


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #5 on: November 15, 2014, 09:35:54 AM »

Thanks........(about the recovery)


I would think that if the brake fluid is really cruddy the junk in there (maybe even some moisture) might be more reactive to cold than the oil.  Just a theory
Logged
Michvalk
Member
*****
Posts: 2002


Remus, Mi


« Reply #6 on: November 15, 2014, 10:04:58 AM »

Chrisj CMA is right. Change the fluid. The moisture in the old fluid can and will cause problems, aside from the junk that seems to grow in there cooldude
Logged
pancho
Member
*****
Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #7 on: November 15, 2014, 12:04:09 PM »

Yeah,, I know you guys are right about the fluid,,,,  here is what it looked like under the clutch slave when I rebuilt it for leaking,,, talk about crud you don't want in your system!!

Just went to WalMart for a turkey and a jug of dot 4,,,, still will still check and see if pressure is released when I crack the bleeders.

Logged

The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
Pappy!
Member
*****
Posts: 5710


Central Florida - Eustis


« Reply #8 on: November 15, 2014, 02:52:41 PM »

Just replied to another post about cold weather and bikes not moving.
My front brakes do the exact same thing. My fluid gets changed about every two years.
I just ride slow around the block and let them build a little heat and they are good to go the rest of the day.
Probably the calipers. That's one of those "when I get around to it" jobs.
Logged
RonW
Member
*****
Posts: 1867

Newport Beach


« Reply #9 on: November 15, 2014, 04:18:45 PM »

Moisture will cause fluid to turn into sludge especially on an 'original' fluid, and sludge has been known to clog up that piston at the reservoir, real bad.

Chrisj, tried that Mean Green you suggested and it's simply amazing.

Logged

2000 Valkyrie Tourer
pancho
Member
*****
Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #10 on: November 15, 2014, 06:41:39 PM »

Just replied to another post about cold weather and bikes not moving.
My front brakes do the exact same thing. My fluid gets changed about every two years.
I just ride slow around the block and let them build a little heat and they are good to go the rest of the day.
Probably the calipers. That's one of those "when I get around to it" jobs.


Yeah,,, that is how I have been handling it,,,, but now I can't even move the bike until they are heated up so I am getting around to it!!  pretty hard on the rotors and pads..  I am going change out the dot 4 and see what that does.  Supposed to snow tomorrow so I guess it can wait for a day or two.
Logged

The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14776


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #11 on: November 15, 2014, 07:30:49 PM »

Moisture will cause fluid to turn into sludge especially on an 'original' fluid, and sludge has been known to clog up that piston at the reservoir, real bad.

Chrisj, tried that Mean Green you suggested and it's simply amazing.



Glad you like the mean green....cant beat it for a dollar!
Logged
pancho
Member
*****
Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #12 on: November 16, 2014, 07:59:43 AM »

Got to ask,,, what is the "mean green"  ????   can't stand not knowing about something that costs a buck and works.....
Logged

The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14776


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #13 on: November 16, 2014, 08:34:52 AM »

Got to ask,,, what is the "mean green"  ????   can't stand not knowing about something that costs a buck and works.....


Its a degreaser you can get at the dollar store.  Apply if to a warm engine, lightly scrub with a toothbrush, rinse off.  Your engine will look better than new


« Last Edit: November 16, 2014, 09:00:44 AM by Chrisj CMA » Logged
pancho
Member
*****
Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #14 on: November 16, 2014, 11:16:12 AM »

I thought my bike is pretty clean,,,  until I saw that picture under your motor......  I will take a look in the dollar store and pick up a bottle ,, if the stuff works, it is a much better choice than the volatile chemicals I generally use.



Logged

The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
Chrisj CMA
Member
*****
Posts: 14776


Crestview (Panhandle) Florida


« Reply #15 on: November 16, 2014, 11:29:39 AM »

Very nice bumblebee!  Best one I think I have seen yet
Logged
pancho
Member
*****
Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #16 on: November 16, 2014, 04:17:27 PM »

Thanks Chris,,,  I had more in mind that I wanted to do, but by the time I got to this point, I was ready to stop working on it and start on some serious riding and moving on to other things.
Logged

The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
pancho
Member
*****
Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #17 on: November 19, 2014, 07:09:03 PM »

Had some time to change the dot 4 out today,,





Didn't really look that bad and didn't help the problem at all, so I redid the axle to make sure it was correct,, still dragging and gripping when cold.....  SO,, I figure the problem is either the pins on the calipers or the pistons binding,,

Any ideas on a method for cleaning the pistons up??  I'm wondering if maybe because I used general purpose lithium grease on the caliper pins and not the silicone grease the manual calls for?? maybe lithium grease has problems in the cold??  I'll get them off and apart in a couple of days,, the new shop building has priority right now.
Logged

The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
Gryphon Rider
Member
*****
Posts: 5227


2000 Tourer

Calgary, Alberta


« Reply #18 on: November 20, 2014, 07:20:13 AM »

I'm wondering if maybe because I used general purpose lithium grease on the caliper pins and not the silicone grease the manual calls for?? maybe lithium grease has problems in the cold??
I also have been using lithium grease on the caliper pins, but have not had problems with the brakes not releasing.  And I ride in below freezing temperatures sometimes.
Logged
Firefighter
Member
*****
Posts: 1165


Harlingen, Texas


« Reply #19 on: November 20, 2014, 04:01:02 PM »

I have had caliper dragging on cars that turned out to be the brake hose. The hose would separate inside and become a one way valve, holding fluid pressure on one of the calipers. Actually fairly common on old vehicles, like the ones I drive. Just a possibility.  Firefighter
Logged

2000 Valkyrie Interstate, Black/Red
2006 Honda Sabre 1100
2013 Honda Spirit 750
2002 Honda Rebel 250
1978 Honda 750
hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16781


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #20 on: November 20, 2014, 04:51:20 PM »


Any ideas on a method for cleaning the pistons up??

Here's one of the times I blabbed about how I do it...

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,16332.0.html

-Mike
Logged

pancho
Member
*****
Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #21 on: November 20, 2014, 05:20:46 PM »

Hey Mike,,, do you replace the seals every time you push the pistons out or do you reuse them??  At $40 for the eight required for the front brakes, I'll reuse them if they don't need to be replaced,, but surely don't want to disassemble without having them if they are necessary....
Logged

The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
hubcapsc
Member
*****
Posts: 16781


upstate

South Carolina


« Reply #22 on: November 20, 2014, 06:23:38 PM »

Hey Mike,,, do you replace the seals every time you push the pistons out or do you reuse them??  At $40 for the eight required for the front brakes, I'll reuse them if they don't need to be replaced,, but surely don't want to disassemble without having them if they are necessary....

The seals don't look bad, but each time I have removed the pistons
from the calipers, I have replaced the seals...

-Mike
Logged

Joevalk
Member
*****
Posts: 599


Santa Fe, Texas


« Reply #23 on: March 06, 2016, 06:11:55 PM »

Bump


What was the outcome?

I'm having the same problem with my IS. Rebuilt calipers, master cylinder, and SS hoses. All two years old. I can pull the front brakes and calipers grab and won't release. I can pry  the calipers open with ease and the wheel will spin. Opened the bleeders and no release of pressure to the rotors.
Logged

VRCC#32720
1999 Blk/Silver Tourer (Valkylac)
1999 Grn/Silver Interstate
1999 Blk/Silver (Texas Bobber)
http://vrcc.photostash.com/vrcc_32720/xcd%2002022.jpg
pancho
Member
*****
Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #24 on: March 06, 2016, 07:57:17 PM »

Brake dust and road crud had worked it's way into the front seal on the caliper pistons. They needed pushed out and cleaned up. That ended the problem and then I could push the bike around without the  brakes dragging, which I could not do when it was cold,, could barely move it when it was very cold. I'm sure that contributed to wearing out the rotors.
Logged

The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
Joevalk
Member
*****
Posts: 599


Santa Fe, Texas


« Reply #25 on: March 09, 2016, 11:02:15 PM »

I'll tear them apart one of these days and take a looksee, thanks
Logged

VRCC#32720
1999 Blk/Silver Tourer (Valkylac)
1999 Grn/Silver Interstate
1999 Blk/Silver (Texas Bobber)
http://vrcc.photostash.com/vrcc_32720/xcd%2002022.jpg
Joevalk
Member
*****
Posts: 599


Santa Fe, Texas


« Reply #26 on: March 18, 2016, 07:12:22 PM »

Ok, I tore them back apart and both were locked and hard to get the pistons out. Cleaned them up and sanded them with 2000 grit sand paper. Reinstalled them and Wawlla, just like new cooldude
Logged

VRCC#32720
1999 Blk/Silver Tourer (Valkylac)
1999 Grn/Silver Interstate
1999 Blk/Silver (Texas Bobber)
http://vrcc.photostash.com/vrcc_32720/xcd%2002022.jpg
pancho
Member
*****
Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #27 on: March 19, 2016, 05:14:46 AM »

Good deal Joe.
Logged

The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
gordonv
Member
*****
Posts: 5762


VRCC # 31419

Richmond BC


« Reply #28 on: March 19, 2016, 09:30:46 AM »

Ok, I tore them back apart and both were locked and hard to get the pistons out. Cleaned them up and sanded them with 2000 grit sand paper. Reinstalled them and Wawlla, just like new cooldude

I love how well this is written. Seems like it took nothing to do the job. I've never done it myself, only seen it done on TV and know how it goes together. Lines, removal, taking it apart, fixing, cleaning, then the reverse order getting back together, and then lastly, bleeding the brakes.

Good job!  Cool
Logged

1999 Black with custom paint IS

pancho
Member
*****
Posts: 2113


Bonanza Arkansas


« Reply #29 on: March 19, 2016, 05:07:37 PM »

Details.... details.....   2funny
Logged

The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.
Joevalk
Member
*****
Posts: 599


Santa Fe, Texas


« Reply #30 on: March 19, 2016, 10:18:59 PM »

This how i
Logged

VRCC#32720
1999 Blk/Silver Tourer (Valkylac)
1999 Grn/Silver Interstate
1999 Blk/Silver (Texas Bobber)
http://vrcc.photostash.com/vrcc_32720/xcd%2002022.jpg
Pages: [1]   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: