Clean ECT Mod?

[Wayn-O]

So, I've got the IS ICM and IS carb springs installed on my standard.  Just put on the cobras 6 to 6 and have noticed a little drop in performance.  (Don't lecture me, I like the sound so they're staying on).
I've been considering the ECT mod for a while now and have read quite a few threads on it (there are many).  I have to ask, is it truly as badass as they say?
The only thing kind of holding me back is that I don't feel too stoked on cutting up the wiring for the mod.  I am playing with the idea of doing a clean ECT mod.  Hear me out and let me know if it's possible. 
If I had an extra wire harness from another valk that had the red and blue connectors intact, cut them off, unplug them, and then reverse them so the cut wire ends are now together and solder them together, essentially making a male to female coupler that could simply plug into the existing red and blue connectors.  The CLEAN part is that you would do all of your splicing/installing-of-resistor/pot on the already cut/re-soldered coupler section of the wiring from the spare harness.  That way it would be 100% reversible; just simply unplug it and reconnect the original connectors.  No need to hack up your actual wiring.
What do you guys think?  Could it be done?  Am I missing something?

[sixlow]

I think this is the next brilliant product to come from BonS. !!  

[gordonv]

Yes. this is the kind of things I want to do. Plug-n-play.

But isn't this ECM mod one to be done on non-IS ECMs?

[Wayn-O]

From what I've read Gordonv, if you use a smaller resistor it won't advance it the full 10 degrees.  That's why guys will put in a pot, so they have they have the ability to go part way or all the way.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,67250.0.html

[big poppa pump]

Yes. this is the kind of things I want to do. Plug-n-play.

But isn't this ECM mod one to be done on non-IS ECMs?

I have an I/S ICM on both my tourers and I have also done the ECT mod on both of them, NO Pots. However I only used a 1k Ohm resistor instead of a 3.9k Ohm resistor for the mod.
I made my own harness for the mods on the bikes. Even though I had to cut the wiring on the bike at a couple of places, the mod is easily reversible since I used OEM style bullet connectors at all splices.

[Wayn-O]

Big poppa I'd love to see some pics of your wiring. Your method sounds cheaper than my idea since I'd have to buy an entire harness just for two connectors.
With the 1K resistor does it still give it some good giddy-up? I'd be interested to hear your reasoning for deciding on the 1k resistor instead of something else like a 2k resistor. The original mod suggests a 3.9k and 2k would be roughly half of that. I don't want to go overboard in the advance and damage my engine so I'd love your thoughts.

[big poppa pump]

Big poppa I'd love to see some pics of your wiring. Your method sounds cheaper than my idea since I'd have to buy an entire harness just for two connectors.
With the 1K resistor does it still give it some good giddy-up? I'd be interested to hear your reasoning for deciding on the 1k resistor instead of something else like a 2k resistor. The original mod suggests a 3.9k and 2k would be roughly half of that. I don't want to go overboard in the advance and damage my engine so I'd love your thoughts.

Unfortunately no pics of wiring. The reason for the 1k resistor is the I/S ICM. The I/S ICM already gives a 2 degree advance, the 1k resistor gives roughly about 3-4 degree advance resulting in a total advance of 5-6 degrees. This would be the same as wiring in a 2k Ohm resistor with a Std ICM. I do have the I/S carb springs as well and both my bikes pull crazy fast.

[turtle254]

So, I've got the IS ICM and IS carb springs installed on my standard.  Just put on the cobras 6 to 6 and have noticed a little drop in performance.  (Don't lecture me, I like the sound so they're staying on).
I've been considering the ECT mod for a while now and have read quite a few threads on it (there are many).  I have to ask, is it truly as badass as they say?
The only thing kind of holding me back is that I don't feel too stoked on cutting up the wiring for the mod.  I am playing with the idea of doing a clean ECT mod.  Hear me out and let me know if it's possible. 
If I had an extra wire harness from another valk that had the red and blue connectors intact, cut them off, unplug them, and then reverse them so the cut wire ends are now together and solder them together, essentially making a male to female coupler that could simply plug into the existing red and blue connectors.  The CLEAN part is that you would do all of your splicing/installing-of-resistor/pot on the already cut/re-soldered coupler section of the wiring from the spare harness.  That way it would be 100% reversible; just simply unplug it and reconnect the original connectors.  No need to hack up your actual wiring.
What do you guys think?  Could it be done?  Am I missing something?

I was thinking, why not just unplug the blue conn. and just put the pot across the pink and G/B wire before the ECT. Thus eliminating the ECT totally. Since this is what your doing anyway. Looks like a much simpler way to do all this.   

[turtle254]

  [/quote]

I was thinking, why not just unplug the blue conn. and just put the pot across the pink and G/B wire before the ECT. Thus eliminating the ECT totally. Since this is what your doing anyway. Looks like a much simpler way to do all this.   

[/quote]
I guess no one wants to think about this simpler way on doing the Mod.
Just unplugging the blue conn, would give you 10 deg advance between 850rpm and 3500rpm with no Mod's at all !

[RDKLL]

  I guess no one wants to think about this simpler way on doing the Mod.
Just unplugging the blue conn, would give you 10 deg advance between 850rpm and 3500rpm with no Mod's at all !

I am, you have pictures?

[turtle254]

 

I was thinking, why not just unplug the blue conn. and just put the pot across the pink and G/B wire before the ECT. Thus eliminating the ECT totally. Since this is what your doing anyway. Looks like a much simpler way to do all this.   

[/quote]
I guess no one wants to think about this simpler way on doing the Mod.
Just unplugging the blue conn, would give you 10 deg advance between 850rpm and 3500rpm with no Mod's at all !
[/quote]

Edit ..
If the lead is open (or above ~ 20kohms), then the advance is disabled by the ICM.  So just unplugging the blue conn will disable the advance as will a total short to ground. Need some resistance to function.
across the plug.

[Wayn-O]

I've also read that the full 10 degrees of advance is not wanted which is why people put in a potentiometer or a constant/fixed resistor of about 2K ohms (max resistance for 10 degree advance is something like 3.9K ohm).

[turtle254]

 

I was thinking, why not just unplug the blue conn. and just put the pot across the pink and G/B wire before the ECT. Thus eliminating the ECT totally. Since this is what your doing anyway. Looks like a much simpler way to do all this.   

I guess no one wants to think about this simpler way on doing the Mod.
Just unplugging the blue conn, would give you 10 deg advance between 850rpm and 3500rpm with no Mod's at all !
[/quote]

Edit ..
If the lead is open (or above ~ 20kohms), then the advance is disabled by the ICM.  So just unplugging the blue conn will disable the advance as will a total short to ground. Need some resistance to function.
across the plug.
[/quote]
Edit ..
The 850RPM and below "disable the advance" feature does not appear to be on 98 Std. This is good news so you don't have that jump on RPMs as you pass thur that range

[Jersey]

Might want to check this out. 

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,97969.0.html

The adjustable has been a nice feature.

[Jersey]

I've also read that the full 10 degrees of advance is not wanted which is why people put in a potentiometer or a constant/fixed resistor of about 2K ohms (max resistance for 10 degree advance is something like 3.9K ohm).

From my experience the potentiometer has been very useful just for this reason.  I didn't like the way it was sounding at full resistance and was able to dial in exactly what worked for my bike and riding style. 

[turtle254]

 

I was thinking, why not just unplug the blue conn. and just put the pot across the pink and G/B wire before the ECT. Thus eliminating the ECT totally. Since this is what your doing anyway. Looks like a much simpler way to do all this.   

I guess no one wants to think about this simpler way on doing the Mod.
Just unplugging the blue conn, would give you 10 deg advance between 850rpm and 3500rpm with no Mod's at all !

Edit ..
If the lead is open (or above ~ 20kohms), then the advance is disabled by the ICM.  So just unplugging the blue conn will disable the advance as will a total short to ground. Need some resistance to function.
across the plug.
[/quote]
Edit ..
The 850RPM and below "disable the advance" feature does not appear to be on 98 Std. This is good news so you don't have that jump on RPMs as you pass thur that range
[/quote]
Edit ..
" Need some resistance to function" means fixed resistor or an adjustable Pot !
This is a way to do away with the ECT, which is what your doing in around about fashion with the original MOD. Much cleaner way and easily reversed by unpluging and repluging back in the ECT conn.