How do I know when I need a clutch replacement?

[wellandfit]

The clutch lever on my 99 (86k miles) has little distance to the handle.  When I put it in gear it wants to serge forward even with the level fully engaged.  My mechanic bled the clutch, but little difference.  Is it time for a clutch replacement? 

[Hook#3287]

If you're confident your mechanic bleed the system properly and enough, then the next think I would check would be the slave cylinder.

You can take it out and inspect it relatively easily, I would suggest getting a service manual if you don't have one.

Making sure the system is clean and the master and slave are working properly is the first step and should be done even if you need to open her up to inspect the clutch.

[Firefighter]

Do you mean it pulls constant while in gear with the clutch pulled (engaged)?? Mine will sometimes bump forward when I go from neutral to first gear.

[Pete]

On the surface based on your complaint, it sounds like a master or slave cylinder issue.
Not enough pressure and travel to disengage the clutch.

Rebuild kits are available for both and are inexpensive.

Any fluid leaks on either? If so rebuild that one first.

[gordonv]

Check your lever handle pivot bolt first.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,83167.0.html

[The emperor has no clothes]

Check your lever handle pivot bolt first.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,83167.0.html

+1, mine was so deformed and wore recently I'm surprised it worked at all.

[wellandfit]

Hey, thanks Guys!  I am no mechanic.  Installing a re-build kit sounds scary.  How would I know if the problem is with the pivot bolt?  What would I look for to verify the pivot bolt is the problem? 

Yes, it wants to keep moving forward.  Also, it's become impossible to get in neutral when stopped.  I have to cut it off to get in neutral.   

That service manual is a good idea.  Where can I get one?

I live some 60 miles from the nearest Honda dealership.  I'm afraid I'll have to get them to come pick up the bike, fix it and deliver it.  Ouch!!  My local mechanic won't touch the clutch issue on the Valk.

I sure do appreciate you guys!

[Bone]

Where are you located I'm in southern Michigan 35 miles NW of Toledo , Ohio.

[Hook#3287]

That service manual is a good idea.  Where can I get one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Honda-GL1500-C-CT-CF-Valkyrie-GL-1500-1984-1987-Clymer-M462-2-Repair-Manual-/182390590027?hash=item2a77538a4b:g:ecwAAOSw44BYU55r&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Service-Manual-97-03-GL1500C-Valkyrie-GL1500-OEM-Honda-Shop-Repair-Book-P21-/272240536979?hash=item3f62cced93:g:SRMAAOxyYSdTBpMU&vxp=mtr

I don't have the Clymer Manual, but I hear it's competent.  I like the Honda OEM.

They come up from time to time on Ebay and here in the classified section.

[Mtn Valk]

+1 on the clutch lever handle pivot bolt. May even just need cleaned out and lubricated, but due to the miles, replacement is best. You wouldn't think it would be such an easy fix. Hopefully it will be just that.

[KG]

download the manual

http://www.valkyrienorway.com/download.html

[Jess from VA]

Here you may download a free bootleg copy of the manual.  (from Norway)

http://www.valkyrienorway.com/download.html

I like having a real one, which can be ordered online; $60 last I checked.

Occasionally there has been a copy for sale on our classifieds.

EDIT: KG beat me;  is there an echo in here ?   

[gordonv]

How would you check the pivot bolt? It's kind of hard to explain, I think it's something you sortof know or not.

Inspection. Maybe remove the bolt and then look it over. We are looking for something out of round or bolt/shaft/bushing with signs of being worn.

While off the bike, inspect the pivot point while pushing the lever towards the grip.

[MarkT]

It's brass and on inspection the wear is obvious. Look there first. Replaced mine on Deerslayer thousands of miles ago.

[wellandfit]

Thanks again for all the considerate replies!  I live in Fredericksburg TX.  I contacted the Honda dealer in San Antonio and the said they do not work on bikes older than 10 years.  The service mgr. was very helpful and referred me to a certified independent mech.  about 60 miles away from me.  I called and he seems like a stand-up guy.  Said he would pick up the bike, repair it and bring it back.  I asked what the worse-case scenario money wise would be.  He said if a new kit is required the total cost would be around $350.  I though, not bad, so he's coming next week. 

[MarkT]

Wow.  That brass part is a few bucks and is available from partzilla for one, and will take you maybe 5 minutes to change.  Got any other work you'd like to farm out, I'd like to score $350 for such little work...  Here's the part: http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-22885-MB0-006.html

#2 in the diagram:

[gordonv]

I think what MarkT is getting at, is with very little skill, help from the Forum, and the Service Manual helps too, you should be able to do almost anything yourself.

So far, we are suggesting inspecting the parts, the most common wear part is the handle itself. Suggested post where you are, so someone close by might chime in and volunteer to help/look it over also.

[wellandfit]

Thks Gordon!  Perhaps mark didn't read the worst-case scenario.  That would be pick up my bike from 60 miles away, install a new kit, and deliver back.  It may indeed be as simple as Mark suggests and I sure do appreciate the diagram.  I am the least of the worst when it comes to mechanics so it seems my best option to go with the fellow I found. 

[gordonv]

I wonder how far away Big BF is from you? AZ I believe, Phoenix maybe?

Also Attic Rat, same thing, I don't know where he is.

You can look them both up. BF travels every year, months on the road meeting up with Valks and fixing them.

[wellandfit]

Mark wrote:  "It's brass and on inspection the wear is obvious. Look there first. Replaced mine on Deerslayer thousands of miles ago."  Please elaborate, Mark.  Are you referring to the bushing at the lever?   

Also,  I'm no mechanic, but am I wrong in suspecting that since there is so much "play" in the clutch lever that the problem is there.  I'm thinking this wondering, if the problem was within the internal workings of the clutch, why would that make the clutch lever so loose.  I'm considering taking the lever bolt out and examining it.  What would I look for that would prove it was the problem?  Would it help to take photos and submit them here for you experts to look at? 

[Pete]

Mark wrote:  "It's brass and on inspection the wear is obvious. Look there first. Replaced mine on Deerslayer thousands of miles ago."  Please elaborate, Mark.  Are you referring to the bushing at the lever?   

Also,  I'm no mechanic, but am I wrong in suspecting that since there is so much "play" in the clutch lever that the problem is there.  I'm thinking this wondering, if the problem was within the internal workings of the clutch, why would that make the clutch lever so loose.  I'm considering taking the lever bolt out and examining it.  What would I look for that would prove it was the problem?  Would it help to take photos and submit them here for you experts to look at? 

Perhaps but not necessarily. Could be the clutch does not complete release so the slave cylinder does not force the fluid into the master cylinder. Also could be the master cylinder hangs in the bore and does not return all the way.

Could also be the brass bushing is missing causing the play.

Take the lever apart and see what you find.

[wellandfit]

Ok guys, I took the lever off and the bushing is pretty worn and not round as it should be.  Ordered a new one today.  I can see where this might help with the loose lever, but how about the distance between to the handle?  The lever is way too close. 

[The emperor has no clothes]

Ok guys, I took the lever off and the bushing is pretty worn and not round as it should be.  Ordered a new one today.  I can see where this might help with the loose lever, but how about the distance between to the handle?  The lever is way too close. 

Your new bushing might help with that.

[falconbrother]

I think that I would be real suspicious of that master or slave cylinder based on the symptoms you describe.  I would try a reverse bleed and see if that had any effect. 

[gordonv]

One thing at a time.

You've inspected and discovered a problem. You're doing the right thing, fix it.

After it's fixed, see if the problem is still there. Same, less, more or gone. From there, you can post again with the results, and see what to do next.

Yes, I would also agree with cleaning the fluid, but I would do them all at the same time. If you don't know who, or haven't done it yet yourself, seek help. I bought a vacuum bleeder, when I parted out my bike. A Mitty Vac, but HF has a clone for about half the $. Should also be able to pick it up on one of their many sales.

But I still like doing one things at a time, so after it's fixed, you know what the problem was, rather than it could have been any one of a number of things you fixed.

[wellandfit]

OK Valk pals, thanks to ya'll I'm making progress.  Found this guy through YouTube.  Incredible!

http://motorcyclemd.com/motorcycle-clutch-slave-cylinder-rebuild/

Thanks so much to you all!

Bill Mc

[Pete]

Rebuilding a master cylinder on a bike is usually quite easy.

Mostly 2 things disassembly/reassembly with new parts and thorough cleaning of everything before reassembly. About 99 time out of 100 that fixes the issue.

Perhaps you could say 3 if you include bleeding the system.

On disassembly lay everything out in order as it comes apart.
Then clean everything and then substitute new parts.
Reassemble in reverse order.

Lightly lube rubber parts with clean brake fluid for an easier assembly.

Good luck.

[Bighead]

At 86k I doubt you would need a clutch. Mine is well past 100k and no issues. Do as these guys suggest and take it one step at a time. Mechanical or not you can fix/ repair most anything on this bike.
Keep us updated :cooldude:and your chin up our girls are getting long in the tooth so to speak. And that dealer that said no work on 10+ yr old bikes is because all of their mechanics were still pooping their pants ten yrs ago

[six2go #152]

A problem that no one else seems to want to mention is maybe your clutch rivets are sheared. Mine happened right at the mileage that you have. The symptoms I experienced were;
1) Clutch lever would hit a solid stop before it got to the grip leaving a gap between the lever and grip.
2) The Valk would want to creep forward while stopped and in gear and the clutch pulled in as far as I could(That solid stop thing again).
3) Almost impossible to get into neutral when stopped, and not much easier when rolling.
4) Shifting while riding wasn't smooth as normal.

Several of the guys here have fixed this themselves but I don't get down on the garage floor like I used to, so I took it to my trusted dealer and told them to replace everything that was affiliated with the operation of the clutch. Yes, it cost me some $$, but that was the first and only problem I had in 17 yrs. of ownership so I didn't scrimp, I just wanted it good to go for another decade or so.(Then I traded for an F6B  Smiley )

[BradValk48237]

Ill bet once he replaces the bushing his problem will go away.....

 

B

[wellandfit]

Well Brad and others may be on to something.  I replaced the bushing and the lever is all the way out.  But, it only comes half way the handle now.  Started the bike, but it shut off when putting it in 1st gear after a brief pause.  Some progress but still questions.   

[Hook#3287]

But, it only comes half way the handle now

That doesn't sound like good news.

You're saying after a new bushing, there's little or no play in the lever and it will only go halfway to the grip?

You're sure you got the end of the rod into the hole of the bushing?

[The emperor has no clothes]

You're sure you got the end of the rod into the hole of the bushing?

That sounds dirty 

[Bone]

six2go may have it with rivets.

[gordonv]

Most times when there is talk of the rivets, this is an intermittent problem, comes and goes, even a little bit, the lever action not always the same.

Nothing wrong with doing the easier and simpler things first. Lever, pivot and plunger. Slave. Bleeding.

I would do all these things, and more, before concluding the clutch plates. It can be a fairly easy job, but takes planning. Remove motor or not. Proper sockets. Parts. And Time.

[Bighead]

Well Brad and others may be on to something.  I replaced the bushing and the lever is all the way out.  But, it only comes half way the handle now.  Started the bike, but it shut off when putting it in 1st gear after a brief pause.  Some progress but still questions.   

If the lever only comes in half way I am gonna bet you need clutch plates,sounds as if the rivets are sheared.

[Hook#3287]

You're sure you got the end of the rod into the hole of the bushing?

That sounds dirty 

Umm, only to a pervert   

Wait, I resemble that remark