How many leave the jack adapter on the bike?

[afishinado]

I'm reading where guys leave them on.  I can understand it would be great to have on if you needed it when out of town...  If I do it, I think I'm going to put some thread lock on the nuts and maybe some sort safety to hold the studs into the block...  What have you done?  BTW it's a RIVCO adapter and on a J&S jack

Giving it some love which it hasn't had from the previous owners in years.  Coming up pretty well.  I posted a before and after on the front wheel.

[Jess from VA]

After scrubbing and polishing that wheel for days, it's always a good idea to use a paste wax on it.

It usually dulls the shine a bit, but it makes it take longer before getting cruddy again.

BTW, with the bags, polishing the rear wheel (on the bike) is at least 10 times more fun than the front.


I can't answer on leaving on the adapter.  Mine is home made wood, and not made to stay on.  All the metal ones are not designed to stay on either, though some are, apparently.   

[afishinado]

BTW, with the bags, polishing the rear wheel (on the bike) is at least 10 times more fun than the front.

Oh goody goody!

[The emperor has no clothes]

You should consider replacing your tire valve with a full metal one. I haven't used those adapters, so I'm no help on that.

[bill-jr]

There are adaptors made to stay on and the big one is made to come on and off as needed
Mark t has a leave on piece and the "H"shaped one stays on which is also made by a member here frosty i believe. . .
i would not leave the big one on . . .
turning would become very dangerous

[Valkorado]

MarkT's permanent adapters are light, discreet and highly recommended!

[Jess from VA]

BTW, with the bags, polishing the rear wheel (on the bike) is at least 10 times more fun than the front.

Oh goody goody!

If you really want to go after the rear wheel (on the bike), it's worth the time to pull the bags (the mount brackets stay on).  Just 4 8mm screws each.  Do not lose the bushings the screws go through.  A lot of times, the exhaust heat shields under the bags are rusty, just wire brush them off (or a wire wheel on the drill), and hit them with some rattle can (heat resistant) black paint.

Before using any polishing compounds, always start with corrosive mag wheel cleaners or S100 or Spray 9 and stiff bristle brushes.  Then start to polish.  I use stiff cotton buff wheels on a power drill, but be careful, the drill arbor will walk all over the wheel and not buff out.

When it's time for tires, do not fail to get rid of the 2-piece Honda valve stems and get 90 degree metal ones.  The rubber OE ones are known to crack at the wheel (from torque) and lead to traumatic blowouts while running down the road.  Even Honda recommends their 2-piece be replaced with every tire.... but they still are unsafe.

You can get cheapo's like these (which work fine).


But I used these aluminum billet ones with rubber Oring caps.  The only thing with them is you have to grind off the T's on the wheel (used to mount the honda support arms), in order to mount them to the right/high side of the bike where you want them.  You'll never go back to the Honda stems anyway, so you don't need those T's.


https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/bike-master-90-degree-valve-stems

[afishinado]

When it's time for tires, do not fail to get rid of the 2-piece Honda valve stems and get 90 degree metal ones.  The rubber OE ones are known to crack at the wheel (from torque) and lead to traumatic blowouts while running down the road.  Even Honda recommends their 2-piece be replaced with every tire.... but they still are unsafe.

Thanks for the tips.  The tires are pretty new, but knowing me, I won't rest until I replace the stems.  I'll guess they are 21 years old.  This is my Florida bike, and I would guess it will only see 2,000 miles a year, but that really don't matter.  It hadn't been run in over a year, but I know it only had like 15lbs in the front and 20 in the rear tires when I picked it up, so I have suspicions on the reason.

[hubcapsc]

BTW it's a RIVCO adapter

The one people usually call a RIVCO adapter is not the kind that you leave on.

I left mine on by accident a couple of times and then bought the kind that you
are supposed to leave on...

-Mike

[Jess from VA]

When it's time for tires, do not fail to get rid of the 2-piece Honda valve stems and get 90 degree metal ones.  The rubber OE ones are known to crack at the wheel (from torque) and lead to traumatic blowouts while running down the road.  Even Honda recommends their 2-piece be replaced with every tire.... but they still are unsafe.

Thanks for the tips.  The tires are pretty new, but knowing me, I won't rest until I replace the stems.  I'll guess they are 21 years old.  This is my Florida bike, and I would guess it will only see 2,000 miles a year, but that really don't matter.  It hadn't been run in over a year, but I know it only had like 15lbs in the front and 20 in the rear tires when I picked it up, so I have suspicions on the reason.

Replacing the stems with the tires on can be done... with a great big C clamp or two at the stem (maybe with small blocks of wood to spread out the force of the clamp), and letting all the air out. 

In the mean time, while bending the OE rubber stems around should be avoided, you can put a little warm soapy water on them (like looking for tire leaks), and pushing them back and forth, you can check to be sure they are not cracked (right at the wheel).  (bubbles are not a good sign)

The cracks can be there, and not even leak any or much air, but this is the beginning of trouble.  There are instances where the whole stem has blown off the bike.... at high speeds.  That would not be a happy event. 

[Fazer]

Here is the one I have. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VALKYRIE-HONDA-LIFT-JACK-ADAPTER-NEW-1-MUST-HAVE-MOTORCYCLE-ITEM-Save/170943480226?hash=item27cd0681a2:g:m8YAAOSw9mFWJFI5:rk:2:pf:0

It is bolted between the side stand and the frame and is left on all the time.  It works well enough, but I still brace the front under the engine guards if taking off both wheels.  And you have to watch and not run the leg of the jack in too far, or it will contact the exhaust on the left side.  Right side is no problem for some reason.  If I had to do over, I would get the Mark T lift adapter. 

[Ken Tarver]

I have 1 mountable adapter (dat don't sound right does it) and it stays on 1 of the Valks. Then also like Jess I have a homemade wooden one for the other Valk, or somebody's I'm working on.
I didn't, but the locktite sounds good, think I will do that. Have fun cleaning up your new ride.

Ken

[..]

Here is the one I have. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/VALKYRIE-HONDA-LIFT-JACK-ADAPTER-NEW-1-MUST-HAVE-MOTORCYCLE-ITEM-Save/170943480226?hash=item27cd0681a2:g:m8YAAOSw9mFWJFI5:rk:2:pf:0

It is bolted between the side stand and the frame and is left on all the time.  It works well enough, but I still brace the front under the engine guards if taking off both wheels.  And you have to watch and not run the leg of the jack in too far, or it will contact the exhaust on the left side.  Right side is no problem for some reason.  If I had to do over, I would get the Mark T lift adapter. 

That's what is on my bike too.

[oldsmokey]

Got Mark Ts adapter with supplied hardware, did put drop of loctite on as well

[BigM]

I have this one also. Is light and sturdy. I like the fact of being it being tucked up out of the way. Others hang down under motor, so looks like could poss. have some issues with them. Good price and many sold with good feedback.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VALKYRIE-HONDA-LIFT-JACK-ADAPTER-NEW-1-MUST-HAVE-MOTORCYCLE-ITEM-Save/170943480226?hash=item27cd0681a2:g:m8YAAOSw9mFWJFI5:rk:2:pf:0

[kyrie6]

 The E-Bay one bolts using original Honda hardware. Out of the way of dragging, Solid to crossmember structure. USA made, 100's sold with all pos. feedback.
The others not on E-bay so no feedback stated. Bolts to the bottom of the motor alumn. casting holes. Not intended for something to mount/hang to. Hanging from btm. of motor. .  Sq. tube frame Hanging on down the road from btm. of the motor.   Just the facts. You decide which you would prefer.   

[NewValker]

I decided on Mark T's, 35k miles, No dragging, no hanging down, no problems at all. Always there when needed...
Craig

[MarkT]

The E-Bay one bolts using original Honda hardware. Out of the way of dragging, Solid to crossmember structure. USA made, 100's sold with all pos. feedback.
The others not on E-bay so no feedback stated. Bolts to the bottom of the motor alumn. casting holes. Not intended for something to mount/hang to. Hanging from btm. of motor. .  Sq. tube frame Hanging on down the road from btm. of the motor.   Just the facts. You decide which you would prefer.  

Those aren't "facts" but uninformed opinions.  Do you have one?  NO.  I'm not on ebay because ads there timeout and have to be repeatedly posted.  And they take a chunk of the money for advertising.  I am well known in the online Valk community - I don't need to support ebay or need their volume they might generate - I'm not GM but a small shop.  I already support the VRCC and my ISP host company and I don't have my time wasted re-posting ads I instructed ebay to leave in place in perpetuity.  The holes were put there and used by Honda to hold the engine block in the manufacturing process - after which they are superfluous.  Their use was a LOT more strain then holding my 3# (net) adapter against the bottom of the engine.  Even including the cantilever force, the majority of the bike's weight is supported directly with the steel tube frame in between.  Which DOES NOT hang down but is flush against the engine if mounted as instructed by using the bolts to tighten it up.  Mine is made right here by me, in my shop - NOT OUTSOURCED.  So far all positive feedback except from you who doesn't have one.  Makes me wonder what the hell is your agenda slamming my product when you have no knowledge of it or me.  Some personal agenda?  Maybe you're a liberal and you don't like conservative veterans?  You're a benefactor of the ebay product you push?  Guessing here - a lot like you.  I have been a resource and support for this community since before it was a club - since 1997.  How about you? No?  Haven't heard of you before.  With all of 84 posts.

[turtle254]

The E-Bay one bolts using original Honda hardware. Out of the way of dragging, Solid to crossmember structure. USA made, 100's sold with all pos. feedback.
The others not on E-bay so no feedback stated. Bolts to the bottom of the motor alumn. casting holes. Not intended for something to mount/hang to. Hanging from btm. of motor. .  Sq. tube frame Hanging on down the road from btm. of the motor.   Just the facts. You decide which you would prefer.  

Those aren't "facts" but uninformed opinions.  Do you have one?  NO.  I'm not on ebay because ads there timeout and have to be repeatedly posted.  And they take a chunk of the money for advertising.  I am well known in the online Valk community - I don't need to support ebay or need their volume they might generate - I'm not GM but a small shop.  I already support the VRCC and my ISP host company and I don't have my time wasted re-posting ads I instructed ebay to leave in place in perpetuity.  The holes were put there and used by Honda to hold the engine block in the manufacturing process - after which they are superfluous.  Their use was a LOT more strain then holding my 3# (net) adapter against the bottom of the engine.  Even including the cantilever force, the majority of the bike's weight is supported directly with the steel tube frame in between.  Which DOES NOT hang down but is flush against the engine if mounted as instructed by using the bolts to tighten it up.  Mine is made right here by me, in my shop - NOT OUTSOURCED.  So far all positive feedback except from you who doesn't have one.  Makes me wonder what the hell is your agenda slamming my product when you have no knowledge of it or me.  Some personal agenda?  Maybe you're a liberal and you don't like conservative veterans?  You're a benefactor of the ebay product you push?  Guessing here - a lot like you.  I have been a resource and support for this community since before it was a club - since 1997.  How about you? No?  Haven't heard of you before.  With all of 84 posts.

  and I have one of yours!

[afishinado]

For the record:
I'm a newbie, here and to the Valkyrie.  I posted this thread after I had already purchased and had the RIVCO adapter from eBay.  While the bike was on the adapter, I casually looked at it and thought it could be left on.   I went on a short breakfast ride with some friends between polish day and wax day, and I left it on.  Immediately when I got on the bike I found out why it can't stay on, the side stand hits it and won't fully retract.  When I put it up on the jack again I looked at it closer, I could modify it if I really wanted to.  But FOR MY USES it's just not that important to leave it on.  If I thought I needed to keep it on, I would throw it back on eBay and just buy MarkT's.  I only plan on putting 1500-2000 miles a season on this bike.  I will need the adapter once a year when I do an oil change and coat of wax before storing it for the summer.  If it were my main (or only) ride and saw my 18,000 mi annually, the RIVCO would already be back on eBay and MarkT's on the way. 
MarkT, if I may...  I was unable to find the adapter on your website.  I'm pretty tech savvy with the computer, you may want to look into that.  Semper Fi

[Jess from VA]

Just for the record, it's (much) easier to change the oil on the side stand, and not a lift.  The jack is in the way of the oil catch pan.

It is absolutely easier to wash, clean, wax the bike on the lift.  Esp for old guys like me who hate working all bent over and on your knees.  

[MarkT]

For the record:
I'm a newbie, here and to the Valkyrie.  I posted this thread after I had already purchased and had the RIVCO adapter from eBay.  While the bike was on the adapter, I casually looked at it and thought it could be left on.   I went on a short breakfast ride with some friends between polish day and wax day, and I left it on.  Immediately when I got on the bike I found out why it can't stay on, the side stand hits it and won't fully retract.  When I put it up on the jack again I looked at it closer, I could modify it if I really wanted to.  But FOR MY USES it's just not that important to leave it on.  If I thought I needed to keep it on, I would throw it back on eBay and just buy MarkT's.  I only plan on putting 1500-2000 miles a season on this bike.  I will need the adapter once a year when I do an oil change and coat of wax before storing it for the summer.  If it were my main (or only) ride and saw my 18,000 mi annually, the RIVCO would already be back on eBay and MarkT's on the way.  
MarkT, if I may...  I was unable to find the adapter on your website.  I'm pretty tech savvy with the computer, you may want to look into that.  Semper Fi

Hey Afishinado.  Cool handle BTW.  Guessin you fly fish.  Or ocean.  Thanks for your service.

Yeah I know on the web site.  It's stagnated to be brutal, as the web site editor is broken, EOL'd, proprietary, and the software company belly up.  I need to migrate it to something mainstream but that's a lot of work as the site has a lot of content and I'm slowing down.  I usually post threads here when I have something related to say, since I support this club as well.  Here's a thread this year on the adapter.  http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,100774.0.html


BTW Jess, I change my oil on the lift with the adapter in place.  The bike is then vertical not leaning left, with the oil drain on the right side, and the adapter does not interfere.  Also I position the lift aft a bit from the drain.  I use scissors-type small table lifts immediatly under the bike (and use a second one to raise wheels), and the whole works lifted on a Snap-On automotive table lift I adaptd with a welded-on deck to lift bikes.  MUCH better than all the bike table lifts I've seen as it's much wider, much more sturdy - lifts 6,000#.  And has multiple height stops - I added 2.

[rockbobmel]

Mark T's Adapter !  I forgot about it being on there already!!

[Jess from VA]

BTW Jess, I change my oil on the lift with the adapter in place.  The bike is then vertical not leaning left, with the oil drain on the right side, and the adapter does not interfere.  Also I position the lift aft a bit from the drain.  I use scissors-type small table lifts immediately under the bike (and use a second one to raise wheels), and the whole works lifted on a Snap-On automotive table lift I adapted with a welded-on deck to lift bikes.  MUCH better than all the bike table lifts I've seen as it's much wider, much more sturdy - lifts 6,000#.  And has multiple height stops - I added 2.

Yeah, I screwed up the leaning part royally.  Whoops.  (Post now corrected)

I have just my home made wood adapter, and changing the oil on the jack is out... everything is in the way.  

I run it hot (not warm)(usually immediately after a ride), pull the dipstick and the fill plug, pull the filter first with my pan under it.  Then move the pan back to the drain and pull the drain plug.  After most is out, I get on the bike and lean it far over right and hold it there.  When it's down to drips, I punch the starter twice (without starting) to get it all out (small mess, but I'm outdoors).  This always lets me put in the whole gallon, and not the 3.9 qts in the manual, and I am dead center on the dip level, or a hair over, which is fine.

[The emperor has no clothes]

BTW Jess, I change my oil on the lift with the adapter in place.  The bike is then vertical not leaning left, with the oil drain on the right side, and the adapter does not interfere.  Also I position the lift aft a bit from the drain.  I use scissors-type small table lifts immediately under the bike (and use a second one to raise wheels), and the whole works lifted on a Snap-On automotive table lift I adapted with a welded-on deck to lift bikes.  MUCH better than all the bike table lifts I've seen as it's much wider, much more sturdy - lifts 6,000#.  And has multiple height stops - I added 2.

Yeah, I screwed up the leaning part royally.  Whoops.  (Post now corrected)

I have just my home made wood adapter, and changing the oil on the jack is out... everything is in the way.  

I run it hot (not warm)(usually immediately after a ride), pull the dipstick and the fill plug, pull the filter first with my pan under it.  Then move the pan back to the drain and pull the drain plug.  After most is out, I get on the bike and lean it far over right and hold it there.  When it's down to drips, I punch the starter twice (without starting) to get it all out (small mess, but I'm outdoors).  This always lets me put in the whole gallon, and not the 3.9 qts in the manual, and I am dead center on the dip level, or a hair over, which is fine.

Interesting. I do it opposite. I drain the oil, then remove the filter. No real reason, it's just how I've always done all vehicles. What if any is the advantage to removing the filter first ?

[indybobm]

If you remove the filter first and it slips out of your hand it does not make a big splash in the drain pan.

[The emperor has no clothes]

If you remove the filter first and it slips out of your hand if does not make a big splash in the drain pan.

I've done that more than once 

[Jess from VA]

I just do the filter first because it's fast.  The rest takes awhile.  I leave a rag in the filter mount for drips.  And the dip and fill plug and filter off all let more air in for good draining (maybe the filter doesn't help, I dunno).  I also imagine (but am not sure) that the dirtiest crud in the crankcase always comes out last.

Also, and this is really unlikely, but if that filter was to be really badly stuck on there for some reason, I don't want to have to stick in 3+ fresh quarts to top up on an old dirty filter with it's oil still in there.  I have multiple filter wrenches (and monster channel locks).... but I just want to KNOW the filter is off, before I do anything else.

I also put a big lawn and leaf bag under the bike, because no matter how careful I am, dribbles happen.  Esp when I bang the starter a couple times.

Of course, I always drain the drool tube too, though I do that periodically between oil changes (and especially after I do any long rain rides).

I've dropped the filter in the full oil pan too, and not because it's slippery but because I only change oil on a smoking hot bike, and nitrile gloves don't do squat for heat. After one-Mississippi, you burn your fingers, and splash.

[pancho]

I left my wooden one on the bike inadvertently a couple of years ago. It fits tight and after pulling the lift out from under the bike, I got distracted and forgot about it. The next day while riding, sweeping left heading downhill, the bike jumped out from under me,,, I didn't lose it, but it isn't because of anything I did. It happened so fast and the bike came down in a manageable position, so I got control and went to a place where I could stop and see that the bike was OK. I turned around and went back to look where it  had happened.... had no clue.  Setting off the side of the road was my home made lift adapter! I checked it out and it had been built solidly enough that there was no damage to it, and there was no damage to my bike, so it went into one of my Tsykayu Jumbo Strongs (great bags), and I continued on my way. Although I never took any measures to insure it could not happen again, such as chaining it to my lift,, it has never happened again.   I seem to remember someone else mentioning that happening to them when I recounted the story when it happened.

[pancho]

BTW it's a RIVCO adapter

The one people usually call a RIVCO adapter is not the kind that you leave on.

I left mine on by accident a couple of times and then bought the kind that you
are supposed to leave on...

-Mike
Just saw your post Mike,,, maybe it was you I was thinking of leaving your adapter on.

[Jess from VA]

My home-made wood adapter just falls off/down when I lower the jack enough to pull it out. (In fact, it interferes with puling the jack out if I don't get down there and yank it out first.)

This is consistent with my 5th grade level of carpentry.  

[pancho]

Now that's how I could insure it doesn't happen again Jess, fix it so it falls out without the lift under it.
       Duh

[Jess from VA]

Just skinny down the tops of the two arms that go up to hit hard points under the bike (so it won't stick up there).

Or, get (or make) one of those remove before flight flags on a string (twine) that goes from the adapter up to a handlebar, whenever in use.  (a bright visual reminder)

[..]

I used to have the large metal kind that you had to attach to the bike. What a PITA that was.

I used to have a wood one. Not so much of a PITA making sure it stayed square on the bike lift.

Now I have a fitted adapter.

Oh so easy. Wheel jack underneath bike and lift.

[RonW]

I forgot to remove my metal lift adapter twice already. I realized it about a mile down the road like winning the jackpot. The odds of forgetting to remove the adapter are like 400 million to won. But it did stay on, up to then. I'm thinkin of attaching a cable reminder, the kind that's used on disc brake locks ($1.50, ebay).  As far as the original question, I prefer not leaving the adapter on permanently.

[Jess from VA]

On my old Hog, I regularly stuck a padlock on a front brake disk.

Well, sure as hell, one time I got about five inches forward before I came to a sudden stop, followed by dumping the bike, and pitching my ass off in a half gainer over on my back. 

It's nice to be the source of good humor and amusement for your buddies, and I sure didn't disappoint.

So I took to pulling a bungee back to the handlebars as a visual reminder.

[Savago]

About MarkT's adapter: I would believe odds are that a product offered by an active member of the Forum would be superior than some random vendor in the ebay, for the following reasons:

a) The lift is already in the 2.1 revision. It is clear that there is a pursuit to make what was good become even better.

b) The vendor stands for the product.

c) The creator of the stand is an active user of it.

d) Many forum members are happy costumers.

[pancho]

On my old Hog, I regularly stuck a padlock on a front brake disk.

Well, sure as hell, one time I got about five inches forward before I came to a sudden stop, followed by dumping the bike, and pitching my ass off in a half gainer over on my back. 

It's nice to be the source of good humor and amusement for your buddies, and I sure didn't disappoint.

So I took to pulling a bungee back to the handlebars as a visual reminder.

HA...  I did a similar thing on my old FLH,, it had a neck lock that you put a padlock in, it kept the front wheel to one side. I was in a home depo type store and had put the lock on. When I came out, I sat on the bike, started it,  pushed it up transferring the weight to my right leg and kicked the stand up, in what I thought was my flashy practiced takeoff move, I kicked it in gear at the same time I slipped the clutch and attempted to pull the wheel straight.....   I also dumped myself in front of a parking lot full of people,,, of course I had to be right in front of the entrance so everyone could see my glorious bike and fancy riding!          That only happened once,,,   for that reason.

[Jess from VA]

My Hog had that same padlock-taking fork lock.  It was easier to use the rotor.  And I thought it would be harder to miss. 

Most of my bike screwups have been alone, all by myself.

Unfortunately, not all of them. 

My other favorite, was turning up a steep apron, kicking to first in a slow roll (but really neutral), leaning the bike hard up the hill, but with no power having it go over and pin me like a wiggling bug between the bike and a stop sign pole.  It was fortuitous having the pole stop me from going over, but I was really pinned hard.  Also the Hog; which often presented problems with 1st and neutral.

I've found it reduces the embarrassment when you can laugh at yourself (along with everyone else), and take a formal bow from the waist with one arm in front and one in back.

What I don't appreciate is the guy who yells.... hey, can do that again, my wife missed it. 

[pancho]

I've found it reduces the embarrassment when you can laugh at yourself (along with everyone else), and take a formal bow from the waist with one arm in front and one in back.

Amen brother,,  if you do it often enough, ya gotta take that attitude just to survive!