Brake pads.

[Spirited-6]

Kevlar Pads; any feed back on these ? I will need front pads before long and was checking prices and saw these pads on Ebay for $23.00. TIA. 

[daytona]

What I read on this site! You don't EVEN think about anything but OEM!!! Unless you have aftermarket rotors. Then use their pads. Lots of posts on pads, almost as much as oil or tires.

[Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005]

What I read on this site! You don't EVEN think about anything but OEM!!! Unless you have aftermarket rotors. Then use their pads. Lots of posts on pads, almost as much as oil or tires.

Hondaline is what you should buy as stated above thats my opinion also.If you go with the rock hard or cheap brands you can look forward to getting the rotors next time and that will leave a mark on the wallet 

[R J]

Use those with your stock rotors, you will be changing our your rotors in about 15 to 20K.

STOCK rotors, STOCK pads

EBC Rotors, Stock or EBC pads

Same for any other after market brake pads.
Your rotors are made of soft material.

EBC is super tough, they are made for racing.....

Car tire, EBC rotos & EBC pads, ya got all the braking power ya need for the Phat lady, especially with a trailer.

[Ricky-D]

My experience with the stock Honda pads isn't any difference than the aftermarket sintered brake pads of which Honda are identical. The Honda pads wore my rotors down, no if's and's or but's about it.  Sintered and metalliic are synonymous.

The only resource to long life rotors are organic pads. The are rotor friendly and will give long life to the rotors.

The drawbacks to organic pads are, and will be noticed, very little by you if you are an average Valkyrie rider.

You will pay a lot less for organic pads and that's a good thing since they will not last as long as the metallic pads. I got four sets of organic pads for less than 40 bucks.  The savings is in the long life from the rotors.

Of course like everything else, it's your choice in what you are going to do.

***

[Willow]

I use EBC pads on OEM rotors.  My rotors are quickly coming up on the need for replacement, but then I have 148,600 miles on them.

YMMV.

[bigdog99]

where was this one earlier, i bought new pads because i knew i was taking ot that far down. when i took off the original pads, with 78,000 miles, they were slightly less than the new ones. anyway, i have new pads for the next 75,000. 

[fudgie]

I use pads by Braking. Less in price then oem and I like how they stop. No probs with them, tho I did replace my rear rotor at 48,000 cause it was kinda ruff. I need to get it turned. I was hard on my rears anyway. 

[Spirited-6]

where was this one earlier, i bought new pads because i knew i was taking ot that far down. when i took off the original pads, with 78,000 miles, they were slightly less than the new ones. anyway, i have new pads for the next 75,000. 

WOW bigdog99. You must drag your feet to stop.   78 K on original pads, maybe I don`t need to replace mine @ 25,000. I guess I need to get on my knees and lQQk at the pads.    Thanks to all that gave input.  

[Bone]

Forget about the miles it's where you ride. 25,000 miles on the highway doesn't wear the brake pads it's 10,000 miles of stop and go that eat them. Try and take a measurement and see what's left. Compare to a new set when you buy some.

[hubcapsc]

I used to think that you waited until the pads were worn down to the bottom of the grooves
to change them...  but now I think you're risking metal on metal if you do that...



-Mike

[Ricky-D]

I used to think that you waited until the pads were worn down to the bottom of the grooves
to change them...  but now I think you're risking metal on metal if you do that...



-Mike

Wait a minute!  If you already have the replacement pads on hand there is no risk. All that is required is to look at them. The pads will not automatically and abruptly go to metal.

***

[roboto65]

I think what he was saying Ricky is that the groove on those pads he is showing are awful close to the metal base of the pad.

[Ricky-D]

I think what he was saying Ricky is that the groove on those pads he is showing are awful close to the metal base of the pad.

Ok. There was no criticism intended there.

Most important in assuring reliable and safe brakes is constant and thorough inspection of the brakes, pads, rotors and fluid.

Pads do not always wear evenly. One side can and will wear more than the other side. Not only that but the pad itself may wear unevenly, one end more than the other or the top radius of the pad wearing more that the small radius. A simple glance will not always reveal wear that needs attention and a need to get down on the ground with a flash light and other help to fully assess the condition of the brakes is a necessary action to take.

***

[Chrisj CMA]

I use pads by Braking. Less in price then oem and I like how they stop. No probs with them, tho I did replace my rear rotor at 48,000 cause it was kinda ruff. I need to get it turned. I was hard on my rears anyway. 

Fudgie.....Im pretty sure turning Valkyrie rotors is NOT an option.  Theres only minimal material loss to get to minimum specs.  If a rotor has been worn to the point that it looks like it needs turned, my guess is its so close to or beyond the minimum specs, no credible shop would mount them to the lathe..........However, I have been wrong once before

[bigdog99]

Spirited-6
actually when i bought the valkyrie, i had no intention of stopping, my wife drags her feet to get me to stop. when i see the smoke in the rear view mirror i just let off of the gas. 
actually, honda told me sevewral miles ago that i needed new ones, i never believe them since the shop was empty and they were all looking for something to do. Anyway, the hardest part for me to do was remove the pad pin plug. it was not coming out without a chisel. so if you are getting new pads, get the plugs too. they dont screw in with the heads chiseled off.

[98valk]

"Sintered and metalliic are synonymous." is an incorrect statement metal pads and sintered pads are two different types of pads.

from my various posts.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,8482.0.html
first off the valkyrie does not use metallic pads, it uses sintered bronze pads, big difference when it comes to wear of the rotors esp. stainless steel rotors. With Iron rotors u would be correct but not for the valkyrie. Sintered pads also often exceed the braking of organic pads in the wet and out perform any organic pad for maximum initial braking esp. the new HH pads. The only organics that can meet the braking of sintered pads are race organics, however they need lots of heat to do it. Not something or time to do on the street when somebody cuts into your lane. Organics have a low initial bite.
to read more see below.
http://www.sportbikesolutions.com/sintered_vs_organic.htm

good explanation of why EBC cause problems, it has to do with the torque curve of the pads
http://www.sportbikes.net/forums/general-sportbikes/384441-brake-pads.html
Different brake pads have different torque curves... the coefficient of friction changes as you both heat the pads, and as you increase lever pressure. That being the case, some pads literally 'run hot' under light loads... having a high coefficient of friction from the get-go and a flat torque curve... meaning the friction co-efficient changes as you exert increasing amounts of pressure. EBC pads are an excellent example of such a pad.

Vesrah makes most OEM pads. The stock valkyrie pads are HH pads as are the Vesrah replacements.
vesrah shows them the same size backing plate, just thicknesses are different. Ferodo shows the same also. 8.2 mm is stock thk front,  9.6 mm is the max that will fit from what I have been told, in fact this thk is all that ferodo imports into USA. rear is 10.3 mm, don't know if they will squeeze in or not. I just ordered the vesrah 9.6mm for my bike from denniskirk, haven't instl them yet. they are HH pads and highly rated.

http://catalog.vesrah.co.jp/index_street_f.html     click on brakes, then search

http://www.ferodoracing.com/catalogue/search.php?search=motorcycle_vehicle&cat=brake_pads

[fudgie]

Spirited-6
actually when i bought the valkyrie, i had no intention of stopping, my wife drags her feet to get me to stop. when i see the smoke in the rear view mirror i just let off of the gas. 
actually, honda told me sevewral miles ago that i needed new ones, i never believe them since the shop was empty and they were all looking for something to do. Anyway, the hardest part for me to do was remove the pad pin plug. it was not coming out without a chisel. so if you are getting new pads, get the plugs too. they dont screw in with the heads chiseled off.

What I did was put a little anti-seize on the threads. Makes it easier the next time around. Actually, I put it on alot of bolts that have been hard to come out, incase I need to remove them next time. Esp the alt bolts and the brake screws.

[fudgie]

I use pads by Braking. Less in price then oem and I like how they stop. No probs with them, tho I did replace my rear rotor at 48,000 cause it was kinda ruff. I need to get it turned. I was hard on my rears anyway. 

Fudgie.....Im pretty sure turning Valkyrie rotors is NOT an option.  Theres only minimal material loss to get to minimum specs.  If a rotor has been worn to the point that it looks like it needs turned, my guess is its so close to or beyond the minimum specs, no credible shop would mount them to the lathe..........However, I have been wrong once before

Ah, your just trying to con me out of one so you can make another lazy susan!  Kidding aside, I see they have a min stamped. I been trying to get it to town to see if it was turnable. Figured it wouldn't cost me to see. And maybe get a spare out of it.

[bigdog99]

thanks, will try that. It sure gets penney anty to buy this bolt, that plug etc.

[Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005]

[fudgie]

 

[kyrie6]

I had seen in the past here that the EBC  pads were know to squeak. And wear faster .

[houstone]

I installed EBC organic pads front and back (stock rotors) about 1500 miles ago.  That is the LAST time I do ANYTHING to my bike before searching this forum!  They make an irritating, but apparently harmless chirping sound, and smell like crap when I him 'em hard.  They seem to work OK, though franco6 pointed out the "softness" that I just got used to.
Thanks for all the great tech-stuff!  What an awesome group!

[vanagon40]

Forget about the miles it's where you ride. 25,000 miles on the highway doesn't wear the brake pads it's 10,000 miles of stop and go that eat them. . . .

Yep, and braking habits.  My fronts were toast at 20,000 miles, but the rear pads have a lot of life left.