Dead Valk

[RLD]

'99 I/S, 29000 miles. I've only owned this bike for 11 months, it had 13000 when I purchased, and the Yuasa battery does not have a date on it.

Quite sure I already know the answer, but thought I'd ask for opinions anyway. Last night, while riding by lake Calhoun, my temp light started blinking very slowly, but the bike showed no signs of overheating. A little later the tach quit, then the speedo, then the dash lights. I made my way to the crosstown to get home quickly. The bike was running fine until I hit the crosstown on ramp, then it starts cutting out. About a mile later it backfires several times and dies. Luckily, I rolled into a construction area away from traffic, called a wrecker, and had to wait for 1.5 hours, but all is well. I tried to start it once, and the lights came on and I got one turn of the motor. To me, this seems like a shorted battery. Any other ideas? I'm going to have the battery checked later today.

[9Ball]

could be a bad alternator that helped kill the battery....

[eric in md]

 +1 alternator gone... killed battery ..

[T.P.]

 YOU SHOULD HAVE CALLED ME   

[Davemn]

I would have helped you.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

Mine did the same thing and it was the alt. that died. I went with the goldwing replacement and haven't had any problems in about 40k now.

[Gunslinger]

Exactly the same symptoms I had on my '01 I/S when the alternator died and the battery finally gave up.

I also went with a 'wing replacement alternator.

[Thunderbolt]

common symptoms.  Battery may not last after running down so low now.

[RLD]

Can I test my alternator or do I need a dealer to do this? In the bike or out? I'd rather pull it and do as much work as possible myself.

[Gunslinger]

Charge the battery, run the bike and check voltage across the battery terminals. If the bike is charging (Alternator working) you should see 14+ volts while running.

If you want to rule out other possible problems, you should check the 55A main fuse and make sure it is not blown as the bike will not charge if it is.

You could also check continuity of the wires connected to the alternator, but I believe that would be a little overkill.

Be careful when removing the three bolts which hold the alternator, some have had problems with them breaking.

There is some good info in these threads, Try the search box in the top right corner for more.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,3834.0.html

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,15076.0.html

[MP]

Be sure to test at 1200-1500 rpm.  At idle, will not be charging much.

MP

[gordonv]

Same symptons you described happened on my car. Alternator not charging, running on battery power only, dash lights started coming on, then shortly not enough power to run the car (winter with all electricals on, turned all off which gave me a little more mileage). Got a tow to town, found out that newer alts have replacement brushes, 2 screws, remove, replace, and off we go again. Took a jump to start, but battery lasted another 3 years till I sold the car.

So the suggestion of charging the battery first, and then taking a meter too it is the way to go.

I didn't find the time to search, but does our alternators have the removeable brush group, or do they need to be disassembled?

[Gunslinger]

I didn't find the time to search, but does our alternators have the removeable brush group, or do they need to be disassembled?

The alternator needs to be disassembled to replace the brushes, but it is not difficult. (Well, the hardest part is removal and re-installation of the alternator)

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/alternator/alternatorservice.htm

In my personal experience I find it easier to remove the alternator and then remove the cables as opposed to fighting cable removal before you take the alternator out, but your mileage may vary.

[RLD]

Thanks for all the great feedback. The battery was toast as was the Alternator. Bought a new battery yesterday, tested the alternator, then ordered a rebuilt from MARS. Great guy. Have to plug him. http://mysite.ncnetwork.net/resp3jbj/
Should be back on the road Saturday.

I have to say this one caught me by surprise as I thought I knew the weak spots. My last Valk ran 107k and I only changed the alt brushes once at about 80k. To have one fail at 29k and then to find out it's a common problem was unexpected to say the least.

[POPS 57]

You are going to have to keep a few of our local numbers on you. I live in Eagan 10 miles away and have a M/C trailer in my driveway. I picked it up from my cousin and it has H/D stickers all over it. They will stay on there so no one would ever know theres a Valk. in there.