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Rear drive

Started by pancho, Sat 09, Mar 2013, 21:34:11

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pancho

SO now after selling my FLH I have ridden for 28 years, I find myself crying about not having a bike. I have always wanted a bike that you could comfortably go across the country, and travel at 80 MPH without feeling as if the machine was coming apart,,, when the Valkyrie came out, I thought it was a perfect bike.... and beautiful. but it was a Honda, and we rode Harleys!!! In January I'm three months without a bike, and desperate, limited funds,,,, looking at Valkyries, I spot one on Craigs List 900 miles away in Valdosta Georgia that has gone back to a bank ,, with only a few pictures to access the condition, I strike a deal and head off into a winter storm and a few adventures with my big black dog Blackie, to get my Baby and bring it home..a 97 in hot rod yellow and black... appears as though it has sat outside in the weather the last year or two.  I am taking the bike apart to the frame and motor for a through cleaning and inspection, and for the most part I am happy with what I am finding,, most of the bike has never been touched, so under the grime most things are in good condition, even the paint is still good,,.

The biggest problem I have run into so far is with the rear drive. When the wheel was off at some point for a tire change, it was put back on without the thrust washer and maintenance was not done on the splines so the flange and drive gear are shot.  I have found the parts with seals and a damper set on Partzilla for about $450, but I was wondering if there is a setup procedure when you replace the gearset?? and if a normal guy should attempt it??  I do not have a service manual yet, but will get one before I do this job. Also if someone has a thrust washer handy, I would like the thickness measurement to do some setup,,, I may cut one out of nylon on the lathe. If anyone has done a gearset change, I would like to hear from you.
The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.

hubcapsc


We talk about final drives here all the time. New thrust washers and other small bits are
easy to get, and cheap. A new flange is easy to get and around $150, $175. Used final drives
in various conditions are easy to get at salvage places like pinwall cycle and also on eBay, for
$250 to $350...

A year or so ago people here started talking about fixing worn Valkyrie final drives by
robbing internal parts from 1500 wing final drives, about a million 1500 wings got triked,
and lots of final drives are out there... After people here started talking about that, I tried it:

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,48990.0.html

There's a ton of information here, you don't need to go fabricating thrust washers
unless you just like that kind of stuff  :cooldude:

-Mike

Oklahoma_Valk

Welcome to the valkyrie sir. We're always happy to welcome converts! ALWAYS!

There are many threads here on rebuilding the final drive. I rebuilt one completely last fall with new parts. It cost around $550. HDL parts website helped a lot.

hubcapsc is the guy to talk to. ^^

ps the yellow and black valk was the fastest one honda made! You lucked out.

Okie

Let those who ride decide.

Thulsa Doom

... and as I shifted into second I couldn't remember a thing she said.

pancho

Thanks for the info Mike,,, actually I do like doing that kind of stuff (cutting out parts on the lathe) I was just going to make one for setup, then buying one when I get the parts. I read that post when you were pressing the splines out of the wing ring gear,,,, my splines look like the ones posted by Oklahoma-Valk... So how did that all work out with the wing spline??? I am all for saving cash, and I have shop tools, but if I save my pennies I can buy a flange form Partzilla for $151.22, and a gearset for 217.70... can I do better finding a flange and Wing ring??? I have a manual 20 ton press.......
The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.

Oklahoma_Valk

You can save a lot of bucks by finding a wing drive. LOTS. I think the wheel flange will have to be valk specific though.

Best bet is to figure out who does trike conversions in your area. And contact them.
Let those who ride decide.

pancho

I am starting to think that is the way to go... After reading HubcapSC post on the topic and seeing Grumpys input, this seems to be a viable choice. I will start to think in that direction, and see if I can find a conversation shop in the area,,,, I am in Fort Smith... any ideas?? THanks for the welcome home.

The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.

Hoser

There is a lot of folks on this board in and around Arkansas, post something on the general board, check the member section.  Hoser
I don't want a pickle, just wanna ride my motor sickle

[img width=300 height=233]http://i617.photobucket.com/albums/

hubcapsc

#8
I think the wheel flange will have to be valk specific though.

1500 Wing flanges interchange as long as it is a post-89 (?)... the ones
that don't interchange have 6 fingers instead of 5, as I remember.
Flanges are a good place to save money, I got a couple of good
ones for around $25 each. It is probably a bad idea to get a used
flange that doesn't look perfect.

I've got three worn Valkyrie finals, and parts to fix all three. Two are
"done", except the 2nd one's pinion cup is on so tight I can't get it off.
I bet my buddy Dan can get it off, I went to talk to him about it the other
day, he was at his airplane hanger replacing the automatic transmission
on a Saab with a manual transmission. He took me for a ride over my
house in his Luscombe...

I haven't ridden enough over the winter to scrub off the last few miles on
my rear tire, so I haven't installed one of my rebuilt drives yet. Soon...

-Mike

Brian

Welcome to the Valkyrie world and this site. The guys on here are awesome. Just don't be thinned skinned cause they will tell you like it is.  Be prepared for the saying " search is your friend".

Make sure your carbs are not leaking thru. Hydrolock is a nasty condition that could possibly cause your starter gears to tear a part.

I am curious what you paid for your 97.

Once you get this running right you will be able stand a nickle on the valve cover while reving 3,000 rpm's.  It's called the nickle trick and it's on Youtube. I have done it. It aint no joke.

Good luck,

Skinhead

Welcome.  One more bit of advice, If the thrust washer is left out damage to the rear wheel can result as well.  Make sure the shoulder on the wheel that has the O ring on it isn't worn.  Good Luck.  You made the right choice.

Friendsville, TN - Troy, MI

pancho

Thanks for the link to a service manual Thulsa Doom..... I see that there are about seven size shims for the pinion and maybe nine sizes of thrust washers for the ring gear, so there is a setup,,, so I am really thinking that I would like to keep my gears and go for a spline change as hubcapnc has done.

What did I pay for my bike???  part of my soul as me and Blackie were stopped dead in traffic on the interstate in a winter storm with it and the world started to ice up around and over us in a vehicle I could not run on idle because the valve guide seals are shot and it would smoke until it loaded up and fouled the plugs.

THe bike was run without the thrust washer,,, there was not one there,,, but the only damage I saw was to the heads of the screws for the damper retainer, but I will check that shoulder as I did not see an o ring there,,, there was one on the flange, and the "third o ring" was there....... I will check.

Mike, I would surely like to take you up on one of those flanges if you would be willing to sell me one, also I will look at that post and pictures again you made when you did that spline pressing,, but I will probably have some questions when it comes time.

You guys are great,, I am thankful for finding this board.
The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.

Blues

Just wanted to share. I know there is a trike conversion shop in Clarksville on I 40... also one along US 71 somewhere south of Mena. I just can't remember what they are called.  Both are in the Fort Smith vicinity. Good luck with the drive. I need to check mine as well.
If you haven't ridden a Valkyrie yet then you're really in for a treat.  You will be a convert.

pancho

Thanks Blues,,, I was already a convert before the Harley was gone, just wasn't ready to admit it. I put an offer on a 1500 wing drive on eBay and it was accepted,, I paid for it 5 minutes ago, and a board member is going to look for a flange for me. Let me see if I can get this picture up $55 with the shipping. Hopefully it is as good as the picture suggests. If not I will be searching down those shops,, I may look them up anyhow just to know where they are,, thanks. Yeah, take a look at your splines next time you get a chance, they can get scarey bad.
The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.

Ricky-D

There is very little that crosses over between a Gold Wing rear drive and a Valkyrie rear drive.

I think it is restricted to the spline cup in the ring gear - and that's the part you are looking to press out and replace into the ring gear of the Valkyrie rear drive.

The only other part is the drive flange, that do exchange, but they are model year specific and not completely applicable.

About buying a used rear drive my thought are the part you are looking to salvage is probably going to be the part that wears out - in either rear drive.

Hope it works out for you.

***
2000_Valkyrie_Interstate

pancho

Thanks for the input Ricky-D.... The only part I plan on using from the wing drive is the spline hub in the ring gear,, plus I will keep the bearing off the splines as it also interchanges,, here is a pic from the auction that accepted my offer     I have more faith than you,,, I expect to get 100K miles out of the drive I build with this.  Good riding
The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.

Grumpy

Just a little hint, after you press out the spline hubs, throw the one you are going to use in the Valk in the freezer overnight, and leave the ring gear out in the sun to warm it up, or use a hair dryer to warm it up. It will press in much easier.


Life is like a hot bath. It feels good while you're in it, but the longer you stay in, the more wrinkled you get.

whitestroke

Minibike                          
Honda S90
Yamaha YL100
Bultaco 250 Matador
Bultaco 250 Pursang
Yamaha 250 YZ
Triumph 650 Bonni
Honda ATC 200

2 Kids 25 year break.
Suzuki GS 500
2003 VTX 1300S,
1998 Valk standard
2008 Goldwing

pancho

Good thought Grumpy,, that will surely make them slide together a bit easier. I feel I am among a band of brothers ........ many of you guys have been down the same road,,, it makes it much easier going into unfamiliar territory. Thanks for that .040 measurement whitestroke,, that will help me do some setup.... good post you linked me to.
The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.

Ricky-D

Those splines look worn, maybe 30% or less.

***
2000_Valkyrie_Interstate

pancho

 One more bit of advice, If the thrust washer is left out damage to the rear wheel can result as well.  Make sure the shoulder on the wheel that has the O ring on it isn't worn.

Well, I cleaned it up and checked the wheel out today... the shoulder does have some wear and a bit of damage from the thrust washer being left out.. the surface where the thrust washer will sit is still good,,,,,, what do you think????
The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.

pancho

The most expensive things you will purchase, are those things you would not have needed if you had listened and obeyed.

Ricky-D

That is worn pretty good but maybe still Ok to use.

I'd suggest to clean up the ridge so it's even all around.

Then cut a spacer to take up the room of the worn away material.

Finally install the thrust washer.

Some would suggest to get a welded up fill repair and machine work.

There are probably a few more options also that could be considered.

***
2000_Valkyrie_Interstate

RP#62

Pancho, I believe I'd be looking for another wheel.  It looks like intergrannular corrosion and exfoliation to the point where the bearing pocket may be structurally compromized.  As Ricky noted, it may be possible to have it welded and machined but from what I can see, its going to take a lot of welding.  You'd have to knock a lot of metal off just to get down to good base metal.  My 2ยข any way.
-RP