Appreciate your opinion!

[Jym777]

I'am considering changing out my stock headlight, lam thinking it's between the cyclops bulb or the day maker lamp? What's your take on this? Thanks Guys,  Jym...

[MarkT]

It's no contest.  The Cyclops bulb is meant to be used in a parabolic reflector that is designed for a tungsten lamp.  They can't place the light emitter in open space the way a filiment is - is always confined on one side.  The result is you get a LOT of light but it's smeared and unfocussed.  OTOH, the Daymaker is an LED light with a projector lens made to focus light from LED emitters.  There is no comparison; not in the same league. It's like comparing apples to turds. And yes, I tried two different design H4 LED's, 5 bulbs in all, in two different headlight buckets - both with the same problems.

I didn't go to the Daymaker as I have an effective solution - High-power headlight mod with 130/90 bulbs; been using that for 18 years; works very well - lights up the road brightly for a measured half mile. I have to replace the bulbs on an average about every 3 years.  Always carry a spare.  Is not as economical in power as the LED, and the color not as white.  No problem with damage from heat.  I also have bright "spots" - on Deerslayer they are A/C landing lights.  On Jade, H4 headlights with my custom power circuit that provides control as select Hi, Lo, Follow-the-Main, off, or parking bulbs. I use std 60/55 bulbs on those "spots"; they are plenty bright.

I wrote up the hi-power headlight mod at http://www.horseapple.com/Valkyrie/Tech_Tips/Headlight_Upgrade/headlight_upgrade.html
Or you can just buy BonS's Smartswitch - same as my headlight mod in a nice package.

You can get 130/90 bulbs from Amazon at https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-H4-130-90W-Halogen/dp/B000VUB4CW%3FSubscriptionId%3DAKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q%26tag%3Dduckduckgo-d-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB000VUB4CW

The spots are from Drag Specialties - google them.

Here's a couple views - I put the long ones on Jade.  I think they profile hardball 9mm bullets.



Here's a front view while I was testing the LED H4's - note the emitters. They now have std halogen H4's. The parking bulbs on in this shot.




Here's the circuit.  I added another sw on the blue-white line (power to the hi-lo sw) to shut off headlights completely while ignition on, not running - "maintenance switch".

[gordonv]

Mark, I see your bikes are all the std/T models, how about this in an IS? I know some have used bright bulbs, without problems.

I've been thinking adding extra lights, but replacing the head lights would be a lot easier and cheaper.

I don't do much night ridding, and like a head light modulator. Maybe even a lower bulb 75 or 65 Watt range.

Maybe need to add on a Smart Switch, to bring full power to the lights, without having wire issues.

[MarkT]

Mark, I see your bikes are all the std/T models, how about this in an IS? I know some have used bright bulbs, without problems.

I've been thinking adding extra lights, but replacing the head lights would be a lot easier and cheaper.

I don't do much night ridding, and like a head light modulator. Maybe even a lower bulb 75 or 65 Watt range.

Maybe need to add on a Smart Switch, to bring full power to the lights, without having wire issues.

On an IS, for more light add a Smart switch.  It will also support more wattage bulbs.  I'm sure BonS has info on that with his install docs.  His mod is also compatible with modulators.  I have experience with Kisan modulators - have one on Deerslayer with the hi-power mod.  I used the wired-in modulator, 150w which can support the 130/90 bulb - now out of production. They are all plug-in now I believe.

[Jess from VA]

Gordon, the interstate has two things going for it over std/tourers (re lights); there are existing OE relay circuits for the headlights (so we don't have the frequency of starter button problems they do), and the fairing (including the headlamp cutouts) is very well vented and breathable (unlike a headlight bucket).

I have been running Hella 80/100 H4 halogens (off-road) (instead of the 45/45 Honda bulbs, and the usual auto parts replacement 60/55 bulbs) for years, with no wiring or socket upgrades, and never had a wiring or heat issue.  

Yes they burn more available power than LED, but these bulbs have never caused me any charging issues, and last for years.  I rarely run brights, and am never flashed with dual 80W dims (and I never had to re-aim my bulbs).

There are probably better led upgrades for sure, but my bulbs cost 7-8 bucks each, and no other mods necessary.

https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-H4-100-80W-Halogen/dp/B000COBLKW

PS, to the extent these are considered Off-road, and thus non-DOT compliant (US), I have to get both my bikes inspected every year in VA, and no one has ever said anything more than turn the lights on, OK hit your brights, OK you pass.  What G inspector is going to go into the fairing and pull the bulbs and look at them????

[MarkT]

Jess, good info.  Except wrong on the venting of the std/tourer bucket.  Pretty sure I've told you this before.  There's a big gap around the entire reflector, and a 4 sg inch hole in the back.  So much air gets through I find big bugs - bees, moths, horseflies etc. in there every time I open it.  Betting it's better vented than the IS though I haven't owned the latter.  Been running 130/90 headlight since 98 with no heat issues.  I didn't upgrade the George headlight since it's a VTX bucket and is less vented.  Besides, don't ride it much at night. It does need more visibility for safety but that's one I just have to let go.  Not gonna mess with George's masterpiece (except in small discrete ways).  Will add relays to the headlight just to get the load off the switches. Guess I could add a modulator; that doesn't change the look.

[Jess from VA]

I didn't know about the std bucket venting Mark.  Never had one.  IF you told me before, I forgot.

Since so much of the std wiring goes thru and in the bucket, I'm surprised it's so open (to wet). 

The only downside to running two hot bulbs in the interstate fairing is the draw.  160 watts constant for two dims (at 80 watts each), seems high.  But it's never caused me a problem.  I did blow a headlamp fuse after new 80/100 bulbs went in once, and caused me worry.  But it was an ancient fuse, and the new one never blew again. Certainly an LED setup would be superior in every way.... but that cannot be done for 7-8 dollars a bulb times two.

[DarkSideR]

The DayMaker is plug and play. With my adapter bracket total installation time is around 30 mins. Here is my post with lots of info..

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,89307.0.html

[sinner]

Don't mess about.

Go the Daymaker.

It will outlast your Valk and is a fantastic improvement.

With the adapter from Josh it takes about 10 minutes. (Thanks Josh!  )

Sinner