Now it is the alternator: Fixed.

[Savago]

Dear Friends

After fixing the shifter seal o-ring, I went for a ride to test if the leak was solved. Details here:
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,92363.0.html

I think after riding maybe 25 miles the bike started to run rough and the overheat light started to blink (I have an I/S 99). I pulled to the side road looked at the water temperature gauge (Autometer), the oil dip stick thermometer and everything was fine.

I next inspected the oil level and it was also ok.

So I resumed riding and next the LCD starts to blink and then I understand what was happening: the alternator probably was toast and I was running on battery. I managed to coast a bit farther and pull to side road where there was a crew performing some road construction.

So, there I was, in the mountains (CA-85, a.k.a. La Honda, almost at the Skyline Blvd as I was heading to Alice's restaurant) in the woods, with about 1 bar of cellphone reception and it was getting dark and cold (when I left the damn place it was about 34-36F).

I'm an AMA member and called for help and after 1 hour they managed to find a tow truck willing to go to Woodside and rescue me. They eventually arrived after 50 minutes.

End of story.

I searched the forum about alternator failure and it seems to be somewhat a common problem. There are people who recommend to rebuild the original, others suggest to buy a GW alternator and rotate it and some just buy some random brand alternator and call it a day.

I'm looking for suggestions concerning which approach could be the best for my case:
a) I/S, has a CB radio
b) Can't spend much time involved in fixing it

Before committing to buy a new alternator, I will verify if the 55/50A fuse is not toast and do all the recommended protocol to diagnose the issue. Yep, I got a voltmeter, when I came home I measured only 11.7V in the battery (it is maybe 2 months old and it is always plugged in a smart charger).

Now comes the rant: I love this bike and wrenching on it is fun... but my priority is to ride, not to wrench. Since I bought it in 2014, I have to replace:

a) Intake o-rings;
b) Tires;
c) Rear shocks;
d) Final drive;
e) Rear rim;
f) Shifter o-ring;
g) 2 batteries;
h) Now probably the alternator;

I understand it is a 18 years bike with 80K miles, but maybe I should just sell it and call it a day. It first left me stranded when I was riding at the Sequoia National Park and now it was near home, but I can hardly trust this bike anymore.
</rant>

Best regards


Savago

[Gavin_Sons]

Sell a bike because of an alternator? Yeah sure. I think this falls under preventative maintenance.  Every 50 k or so replace the alternator with a fresh one and have the old rebuilt for the next swap, and have an extra with you on longtripsand for friends. I know many that have over 100k on theoriginal alternator. So really hard to tell when one will go. A new one may lastyou 150k or 20k, anything mechanical can fail, all we can do is our best a preventative maintenance to reduce the risk of being stranded. What caused you to be stranded the first time? Looks like everything except the rear wheel on your list falls under preventative maintenance. Keep at it, not mich else to go wrong except rear wheel dampers and shock bushings, maybe a wheel bearing or 2. Being an IS I would go with a goldwing alternator and have the old rebuilt as well.

[Gavin_Sons]

Oh by the way, sounds like something on your bike is drqining your batteries and making the alternator work overtime to keep up. May want to isolate the power draw somehow. Maybe the cb is on all the time draining the battery. Any other accessories added?

[Firefighter]

You still need to check the alternator output, could be the battery, could be connections. These machines are bullet proof, but like anything else maintenance has to be kept up with. If you want to sell the POS there will be plenty here to buy it. I think the alternators are far superior to stators that most bikes have.

[98valk]

there have been posts about the '99 I/S alts going bad very early. something about the supplier I tend to recall.
it has also been suggested that at approx 50k miles the alt of all models should be pulled and cleaned out.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Savago, I understand you are frustrated. But let's break it down. The intake o-rings, the tires, the shifter seal, the alternator are all normal wear items. The problem with your rear end and wheel was due to the 2 dumbasses at the dealership. I put in an alternator from LAelectrical for I think $119 2 years ago. Still doing fine. In my opinion you should put an alternator in and ride the hell out of it.

[gordonv]

Feelings? Sorry, can't help at all. If you FEEL that the items that you have fixed on your, as stated, 18 year old bike, mean you own a POS bike, then sell. Sell as fast as you can.

What history with cars do you have? How often do you do repairs/maintenance on them?

Find out why the battery died. As you mentioned, seems you've research and know about the Dog Bone fuse. Check what caused the problem, then go from there.

You said you already had replaced the battery once (2 new batteries). Sounds more like you either have a dud battery, or replacing the battery wasn't the actual problem.

My 88' GW after 25 yrs, slowly stopped producing voltage. It was the brushes not freely moving, and a cleaning fixed it.

[Pappy!]

a) Intake o-rings; Understandable
b) Tires; Normal maint.
c) Rear shocks; After 80K? Not a big deal in my book.
d) Final drive; Probably due to lack of maint. on someones part.
e) Rear rim; HUH?
f) Shifter o-ring; After 80k you are still in the minority on this one.
g) 2 batteries; Was one bad out of the box? A good Yuasa lasts for years.
h) Now probably the alternator; Can't argue this one. But after 80k......

I understand it is a 18 years bike with 80K miles, but maybe I should just sell it and call it a day. It first left me stranded when I was riding at the Sequoia National Park and now it was near home, but I can hardly trust this bike anymore.
</rant>

Best regards


Savago

[old2soon]

I own a 99 I/S with 125000 miles on her. Tires-carb O-rings-rear end maint-replaced 2 alts and 1 battery-replaced clutch and brake levers-added fog lights-upgraded headlights-forks rebuilt-R & R rear wheel bearings-R & R U-joint-added drivers back rest-sheep skin to park my fat arse on-and I do the maint WHEN It's due-NOT after It' due. 18 year old machine that I would ride ANYWHERE at ANYTIME.   RIDE SAFE. Oh yeah-also replaced a shifter seal.

[Hook#3287]

Ummm, what color is it and how much do you want?

I remember you were going to buy all new parts and rebuild the rear drive those mechanics (yeah, right!) toasted on you.

I believe you followed the advice of many on this board and got a used one instead, saving a ton of money and time.

You can't beat that crap with a stick, try that on any other 18 year old motorcycle.

I would get on any of my girls and ride to the left coast.  If something happened, I'm confident I'd get it fixed somewhere, somehow, probably with the help of someone here.

Don't throw in the towel just yet.

The rear wheel was also a result of your choice of mechanic, wasn't it?

[cookiedough]

give the old girl ONE more chance, get the alternator replaced, and see what happens.  I know what you mean about say 3 strikes and  your are out mentality.  I did that on a fairly new toyota RAV4 at the time was suppose to be one of the best reliable cars on the road, turned out a lemon in my book got rid of it before my 3 year warranty was up having some things go bad under 35K miles when they should not have.  I figure 2-3 somewhat major issues under warranty what is this thing going to cost me when I have to pay for it to get fixed...

One more shot I say, you may never have another issue for another 50K miles besides the basics needed done?

[_Sheffjs_]

Gosh, don't go by the other brand. 

Someone rescue this bike it might get kicked.   

[Savago]

@all

Guys, I'm sorry if I vented out my frustration with this bike and annoyed you. It wasn't my intention.

It is just that I paid exactly the same for a vstrom and it never gave any problem (ok, oranges to apples: the vstrom is a 2008 and when I bought it only had 9K miles).

I will give the old girl a last change, buy a new alternator and see how it goes.

I found this one on Amazon, I wonder if it will be a good value?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FH0VZL0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=PG06LGULZZOX&coliid=I1GU9H6TCHL6IG


Best regards


Savago

[The emperor has no clothes]

@all

Guys, I'm sorry if I vented out my frustration with this bike and annoyed you. It wasn't my intention.

It is just that I paid exactly the same for a vstrom and it never gave any problem (ok, oranges to apples: the vstrom is a 2008 and when I bought it only had 9K miles).

I will give the old girl a last change, buy a new alternator and see how it goes.

I found this one on Amazon, I wonder if it will be a good value?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FH0VZL0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=PG06LGULZZOX&coliid=I1GU9H6TCHL6IG


Best regards


Savago

I got the 85 amp one. I don't know if it was necessary though. Just a heads up though. After 10k the nut holding the drive on came loose on mine. I would check its tightness before installing. Installing the alternator is the most frustrating thing so far on the bike. Worse than the boot. So prepare yourself to get pissed. It will go.
https://www.amazon.com/LActrical-ALTERNATOR-VALKYRIE-INTERSTATE-GL1500CD/dp/B008Y7S990/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484675399&sr=8-1&keywords=valkyrie+alternator

[Savago]

I wonder *why* the original part is so damn expensive (450 bucks!):
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-31100-MBY-005.html

[Jess from VA]

Dude, everything with Honda on it is expensive.

Especially lately on our remaining pipeline stuff (going up), like U-joints, alternator plastic covers.... 

[Savago]

Another question: in this video for a GW, it is mentioned to replace the dampeners (at 13 minutes):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CTNJ9pujSp8

Should I also order this part for the job?

[Savago]

Another question: is it required to install a new fuse if I go with the 85A high output alternator?

[hubcapsc]

Another question: in this video for a GW, it is mentioned to replace the dampeners (at 13 minutes):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CTNJ9pujSp8

Should I also order this part for the job?

Get the dampers, they're cheap, and new ones might make the job go easier.
If stiff new ones stick and stay up in where they are supposed to go while
you're thrashing with the alternator, it will be worth it... when me and Stanley
Steamer did his alternator, his dampers kept wanting to fall out. We resorted
to putting a tiny dab of engine oil on each of them to "glue" them in place, it
did the job with no known adverse consequences...

He got a high output MARS one, it whines and unless you have a bunch of accessories
that need a bunch of power, I don't know why you'd need one...

The cheaper Goldwing one with the frob flipped around seems like the way to go to me.

I have nice clean looking one from a low-mileage parted-out eBay bike that I got real cheap, I guess
we'll see how good of an idea that was before long...

-Mike

[The emperor has no clothes]

Another question: is it required to install a new fuse if I go with the 85A high output alternator?

I haven't. I think I agree with Hubcap on the GW one. I was cheap and in a hurry. Also get the dampers. I had the same problem with them falling out. I used a dab of grease to hold them in place. I now have a spare set for next time.

[Savago]

Double checking, the dampeners would be part number 13534-MN5-020 (number 2)?
http://www.procaliber.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2e77f870023420a31af3/alternator

[gordonv]

@all

Guys, I'm sorry if I vented out my frustration with this bike and annoyed you. It wasn't my intention.

It is just that I paid exactly the same for a vstrom and it never gave any problem (ok, oranges to apples: the vstrom is a 2008 and when I bought it only had 9K miles).

I will give the old girl a last change, buy a new alternator and see how it goes.

Savago, you don't owe us an apology, it was more in fun, ribbing you, but we should have used a few of these   instead, with our posts. I'm sure we have all felt the same with something, maybe it would be nicer to get rid of it and get something better.

I wouldn't buy an alt until you find out what is wrong. Did you use your meter yet and get a power reading from the alt while running?

Some have said their battery failed quicker then it should, and the feeling was that it wasn't charged properly.

[Hook#3287]

I think you made the right choice to give her another go

What ticked me off was the "POS" post.  ???

Glad you changed it

[The emperor has no clothes]

I think you made the right choice to give her another go

What ticked me off was the "POS" post.  ???

Glad you changed it

+1

[_Sheffjs_]

Agreed with the last few comments and realize this is one of the most stable reliable bikes ever made, just ask DDT he has over 530,000 in his. 

[The emperor has no clothes]

Double checking, the dampeners would be part number 13534-MN5-020 (number 2)?
http://www.procaliber.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2e77f870023420a31af3/alternator

Yes, and you need 4 of them. 

[Daniel Meyer]

At 80K miles, if it's not the alternator fuse, it's likely just the brushes.

[fudgie]

I have my alt checked every 50k. I have 105k on my 98. Im not scared to take a 7k mile trip this summer.

[Daniel Meyer]

Double checking, the dampeners would be part number 13534-MN5-020 (number 2)?
http://www.procaliber.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2e77f870023420a31af3/alternator

Yes, and you need 4 of them. 

And they are unlikely to need replacement at 80k miles...should be reusable...

[The emperor has no clothes]

Double checking, the dampeners would be part number 13534-MN5-020 (number 2)?
http://www.procaliber.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2e77f870023420a31af3/alternator

Yes, and you need 4 of them. 

And they are unlikely to need replacement at 80k miles...should be reusable...

Mine were very brittle at 87k. Most of them broke apart at the little plastic bridge.

[Daniel Meyer]

Double checking, the dampeners would be part number 13534-MN5-020 (number 2)?
http://www.procaliber.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2e77f870023420a31af3/alternator

Yes, and you need 4 of them. 

And they are unlikely to need replacement at 80k miles...should be reusable...

Mine were very brittle at 87k. Most of them broke apart at the little plastic bridge.

Interesting. Mine were fine at 90k and again (recently) at 200k...

[98valk]

Double checking, the dampeners would be part number 13534-MN5-020 (number 2)?
http://www.procaliber.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2e77f870023420a31af3/alternator

Yes, and you need 4 of them. 

And they are unlikely to need replacement at 80k miles...should be reusable...

Mine were very brittle at 87k. Most of them broke apart at the little plastic bridge.

Interesting. Mine were fine at 90k and again (recently) at 200k...

yours were easy highway miles. 

[Rio Wil]

A symptom of hard alternator dampers is a low level noise kinda like a clanky sound at idle and especially when cold. A chrome alternator will amplify the sound and it comes from the alternator area, not to be confused with the tranny noise in neutral and the clutch released. I lived with the noise from about 120K miles to over 200K when I pulled the alternator to do brush replacement. Replaced the dampers and no more alt noise......

[Blackduck]

Discussed the brush issue with a couple of mates early in the week, must have jinxed myself.
Bike quit this morning.
Had a mate bring out another battery and got it home, no charge.
Pulled the alternator and brushes were down to the lock pin holes.
Checked the rotor and no continuity, took a long time to find the fault. Found one of the wires going to the slip rings had cracked right on the corner were it is wound around a post as it comes of the stator.
Managed to get it cleaned up and laid it alongside the rest of the wire around the post and soldered it together, couple of new brushes and we have power again.
Will order a new one then keep this as a spare.
First on the road failure with any bike.

[N0tac0p]

OK so amazon has an 85 amp, high output alternator.  any concerns with frying anything with the extra current?  its only $140!

[hubcapsc]

OK so amazon has an 85 amp, high output alternator.  any concerns with frying anything with the extra current?  its only $140!

I think the "extra" is just extra to draw from, but I also think electricity is
magic, so...

-Mike

[idaida98]

I took  my alternator out last spring and took it to an alternator shop.My bike had 83,000 on it.I brought it to a auto electric shop and had it checked out. The shop owner said everything checked out great. While on the New England board a friend of mine was thinking of getting his alternator checked out and I brought it to the same shop that checked out mine.My friends bike had 99,000 on it and it needed brushes. When I questioned the shop owner about the difference of the two he said old batteries can make the alternator work harder and that could be one factor. I think my friend said his battery was 10 yrs old.  ???

[Daniel Meyer]

yours were easy highway miles. 

*snort* Yeah, let's go with that!

I'll need it if I ever need to sell.

"Flogging the crap out of it for the last quarter-million miles? Who told ya that? These were easy highway miles..."

[vanagon40]

. . . he said old batteries can make the alternator work harder and that could be one factor. . . .

Once again, I'm calling BS on this theory. If someone can provide me some mathematical explanation or study, I might reconsider. I might also accept that a defective battery might cause damage to the alternator. I fail to see how the age of a battery can lead to premature failure of an alternator or the alternator brushes.

[vanagon40]

. . . . Checked the rotor and no continuity, took a long time to find the fault. Found one of the wires going to the slip rings had cracked right on the corner were it is wound around a post as it comes of the stator. . . .

There were quite a few posts on this exact problem on the "old" Valkyrie forum. And like you, some members actually tracked down the broken wire and repaired it (and provided photos of the repair). I do not recall seeing any posts on this lately--perhaps because most of the broken wire failures have now been repaired or replaced. I know the alternator on my 2001 Standard failed in 2008 with 14,300 miles (and it was a no continuity failure). Seems like the alternators either failed prematurely from a broken wire or lasted almost forever.

Ken Heming (another Hoosier) reports:

In 1995 HITACHI moved their manufacturing from JAPAN to CHINA, since then they have been producing bad alternators. Broken rotor windings or burned up rotor coils from inferior wire and insulation. I have rebuilt over 800  GL1500 alternators and 95% were later models.

M.A.R.S.