Simultaneous Low-High Beam Lighting

[Avanti]

Cars of different periods and styles over the years have used large single headlights or four headlights, two for low beam and two for high beam. The low beam lights in some cases would remain on when the high beam lights were applied. This allowed the low beam lights to continue to fill in the area between the operator and the starting point of the high beam lights; which are used to project light further forward.

I know that if I switch my Interstate lights from low to high or vice versa slowly, there is a point at which the switch position will allow both the low and high beam lighting to be on simultaneously. This of course would most likely cause damage to the switch if used as a routine method of operating the low to high beam lighting. The wiring how ever could of course be altered to allow for low beams to remain on along with the high beam lights.

The question is. Would the Interstate refraction material used in the light fixture be able to handle the continual higher heat that would be generated in the simultaneous use of low and high beams with out being damaged, and could the bulb sustain operating both filaments with a reasonable life span?

Testing the bulb not expensive! Testing the Interstate fixture could be expensive!  

[MarkT]

In my opinion it's not worth pursuing.  What advantage would be gained to have them both on?  You will be using about twice the power and generating about twice the heat.  With the high beams on, what additional good will the low beams do?  If you need light in the ditches a pair of spots on the crash bars or mounted to the forks can be used for that and you can aim them separately.  W/O worry of damage caused to the OEM buckets.

[Jess from VA]

Since there's only one bulb per light, do you propose to have both filaments on at the same time?

I think the bulbs would burn out in record time. (And you know how much fun changing them is) 

And maybe the sockets and wiring (and fuse).

As opposed to all the other solutions offered here (daymaker, etc), I run off-road Hella 80/100 bulbs (interstates only, without wiring and/or socket upgrades). They are lasting for years.  I only use the brights for cages who are thinking about pulling out in front of me.  Two 80s, instead of two 55s is a good improvement for bulbs under $10 apiece.

I don't need more light to see, but adding some small lights to BE SEEN (away from the fairing) from the front is a good idea.

I've about quit riding at night.  I don't see as good at night anymore, and there are too many drunks and deer and other things to run into, or into me.  

[Pete]

The overlap in the switch is intentional, so that at no time are you ever without light.

As for burning both, I have done that in the past without any noticed issues.

The fuse is rated to withstand the draw.

At speed there seems to be enough air flow for cooling, at rest not so much.
I typically only used both at speed where airflow and alternator output were better. 

Later I mounted additional driving lights as they were really offered better spread and light.
Although load on the alternator was increased over the bright/dim solution.
The driving lights were also a better solution than the 80/100 bulbs for the same reason, but more expensive.

[northernvalk]

My Polaris RMK sled has this as standard....If the sled is idling it will cut the high beams to conserve energy but it turns back on as you rev up.

[Avanti]

Might be time to check out the Steel cowboy Daymaker conversion or put some Datmakers in the Pods.

[¿spoom]

Might be time to check out the Steel cowboy Daymaker conversion or put some Datmakers in the Pods.

Got to echo MarkT's thoughts. I would look into a pair of the excellent LED driving lamps out now that are way brighter than your current lamps but only add around 10 watts (not a typo, less than an amp) per lamp to the bike's load. The Denali D2D are a good choice, dual intensity that can be set up to go high/low with a switch or tied to the bike's hi/lo headlamp circuit. They have replaceable lenses in spot or flood pattern.

[SCain]

I would worry about melting or damage to the IS headlight housing, they are no longer available and I haven't seen many used ones come up in good shape. my .02

[Paladin528]

The bulb would likely fail before the housing melted but its not something I would want to test for the aforementioned reasons.
If you want more light get a good quality H4 LED and a set of adapter rings.

[RonW]

What's this light pod thingie in the pic below (arrow). I thought all Interstates had them. From the side it looks like an Interstate radiator cover, 2nd pic. Obviously, I don't own an Interstate.

[Avanti]

What's this light pod thingie in the pic below (arrow). I thought all Interstates had them. From the side it looks like the standard radiator cover, 2nd pic. Obviously, I don't own an Interstate.

That was an option which is no longer available. Last used set sold for almost $500.00 and the only part that is needed but not available are the rubber boots that go between the pod and light fixture. Probably work fine but if I am going to spend that amount of coin it will be on a more up to date LED set up. 

[Rio Wil]

a quick and easy upgrade for the IS headlight is to replace the stock 45/45W bulbs with 60/55W.  considerable brighter and does not wash out street /highway signs like higher wattage bulbs do.  with the 60/55's if you burn them at the same time, in a couple of minutes it will blow the headlight fuse.........both at once on the IS wont hurt the headlight switch....it only controls relays, not bulb current.

[RonW]

That was an option which is no longer available. Last used set sold for almost $500.00 and the only part that is needed but not available are the rubber boots that go between the pod and light fixture.

That explains things. I had thought with all the headlights on the Interstate why wouldn't the bulbs be adequate, I mistakingly thought they came with 4 headlamps.

[northernvalk]

This was one option I looked for when buying my IS.  I passed up on two others without the extra lights, doesn't seem like much but I really wanted the stock extra lighting and I think it looks kinda weird without them.

[RonW]

I really wanted the stock extra lighting .....

Especially with the 45/45 bulbs. Low beam 45 watts. Hi beam 45 watts. Might as well just have a single filament 45 watt bulb. What's then the purpose of the high/low switch?

[Pete]

I really wanted the stock extra lighting .....

Especially with the 45/45 bulbs. Low beam 45 watts. Hi beam 45 watts. Might as well just have a single filament 45 watt bulb. What's then the purpose of the high/low switch?

To switch the pattern of the light from wide/short to narrow/long, either way you have 90 watts of light.

[northernvalk]

Coming off the magna...the IS is like driving a Baja car with a full roof array!!!

[Paladin528]

I really wanted the stock extra lighting .....

Especially with the 45/45 bulbs. Low beam 45 watts. Hi beam 45 watts. Might as well just have a single filament 45 watt bulb. What's then the purpose of the high/low switch?

The filaments are located in different positions so as to cast the light in different areas.  That is why when you go to an LED bulb on the interstate you need one that conforms to the H4 standard and positions the LEDs in the correct positions.  If you get cheap ones the light will blow out all over the place.

[RonW]

Manufacturers of Led headlight bulbs should have followed the (Stanley) 45/45 filaments' placements. I wonder why that's isn't.

[Steel cowboy]

Here is my conversion Avanti was referring to that I built for my interstate. I used H/D road glide LED lights and they are very bright. no mod needed to the wiring on an interstate. The turn signals are H/D LED running lights that turn yellow when you activate the turn signal. The black on the wind deflectors and fairing deflectors is reflective tape, looks black during the day but glows white when a headlight shines on them.

[Steel cowboy]

[Ramie]

Here is my conversion Avanti was referring to that I built for my interstate. I used H/D road glide LED lights and they are very bright. no mod needed to the wiring on an interstate. The turn signals are H/D LED running lights that turn yellow when you activate the turn signal. The black on the wind deflectors and fairing deflectors is reflective tape, looks black during the day but glows white when a headlight shines on them.

Still interested in knowing how you did it Cowboy.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Here is my conversion Avanti was referring to that I built for my interstate. I used H/D road glide LED lights and they are very bright. no mod needed to the wiring on an interstate. The turn signals are H/D LED running lights that turn yellow when you activate the turn signal. The black on the wind deflectors and fairing deflectors is reflective tape, looks black during the day but glows white when a headlight shines on them.

Still interested in knowing how you did it Cowboy.

He did a great write up of it a while back. Unfortunately the photobucket fiasco has eliminated the pics from it.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,95206.0.html

[Steel cowboy]

Here's a picture of the reflective tape at work. I also have it on the lower forks.
I'm working on a write up with pictures for the head lights, but things keep getting in the way.

[Jess from VA]

Cowboy, that is a very interesting idea with the reflective on the air wings.

My question is..... they get covered with bugs, so if wiping them off all the time, does it booger up the tape?  (I mostly use just a wet/water microfiber cloth for bugs, with the occasional wash)

I put some of that on the back of my black helmet.   

[Steel cowboy]

When I get bug juice on them, it cleans up with hydrogen peroxide in a spray bottle. I used H/P on my windshield and fairing too. Then I wax them with Pledge or turtle wax ice. They have endured the Florida summer heat with out any wrinkles or delamination. The tape can be bought in many colors and sizes on eBay.