Opinions on how to fit out my new shop?

[wingrider02]

Hello All!

The time has finally come that my pole barn shop is being built.  It is going to be 40x56.  This spring I plan to get a concrete floor in it with infloor heat.

I plan on using LED lights in it, just not sure how much is to much on those.  I can get a few different lumens, the cheapest is 4000L in an 8’ section for $39.  I question if that might be a bit to bright if I put them 4 to a row, and 6 trusses worth?  My other options for lights are 2000, 2400, and 3700L.

The other thing I wonder about...I plan to get a motorcycle table lift.  What is your opinion of sinking it in the floor so it is level, vs just having it sitting on top of the concrete?  Figure while in the building stages, I might as well dream!

[..]

Hello All!

The time has finally come that my pole barn shop is being built.  It is going to be 40x56.  This spring I plan to get a concrete floor in it with infloor heat.

I plan on using LED lights in it, just not sure how much is to much on those.  I can get a few different lumens, the cheapest is 4000L in an 8’ section for $39.  I question if that might be a bit to bright if I put them 4 to a row, and 6 trusses worth?  My other options for lights are 2000, 2400, and 3700L.

The other thing I wonder about...I plan to get a motorcycle table lift.  What is your opinion of sinking it in the floor so it is level, vs just having it sitting on top of the concrete?  Figure while in the building stages, I might as well dream!

You'll lose some height if it's sunken?
Pain in the ass to move if you need to.

[f6john]

On the lights, use as many as fits your budget then put them on multiple circuits so you can control how many lights you have on at any given time.

[wingrider02]

Thanks guys!  Yes, you would lose the amount of lift height based on how far in the floor it is.  Most lifts will go 33” high, and at least a Redline will lift 43”.  I am only 5’7”, so I don’t need a lift as high as someone that is 6’ or better.

I also have ways of getting a lift out of hole...coming off the farm, I got to keep a couple tractors with loaders on them.  I also plan to make a rolling gantry that will support engines and such.

I had figured I would put the lights on separate switches to control the lighting.  Good minds think alike! 

[old2soon]

Old garage old lighting in my case. There are times that even with my drop cord light that little nooks and crannies are STILL too cursed dark to see! Long time ago a paint guy I knew had low lighting-floor level-installed in his paint booth. ANY flaws showed up rather Quickly!  Ya gotz ta do what MAKES You happy. You have an empty pallet to git creative upon! 40 X 56 sounds large when you first start out.  IF you service your own cage a floor pit may help-or not. While with first e o l I built a shop bench that would hold a Complete V-8 engine. Good luck with your new project and the ole green eyed monster has been awakened!  RIDE SAFE.

[The emperor has no clothes]

ptgb did an awesome garage build a while back. I don’t know if the pics still show up. But it was superb.

[hubcapsc]

the cheapest is 4000L

I installed a nice inexpensive LED ceiling light recently. First
I went to Lowes and got one made Ulitech... it hummed
terribly. I took it back and got a similar Lithonia one at
Home Depot.

Not only was the Lithonia one quiet, but after handling
both of them and getting a look at their insides, the Lithonia
one was much higher quality.

The Lithonia one was only a few more dollars...

-Mike

[..]

Seal the concrete floor so it doesn't stain and makes it easier to clean.

[Rams]

Don't care how big you build it, eventually it won't be big enough.

I wouldn't sink a bike lift into the floor (just my opinion).   All that does it make that spot a permanent location that nothing else works with/on.   I've relocated things in my shop a couple of times as my needs have changed.    As far as lighting, as long as it is on different circuits with switches, you can't have too much lighting. 

Rams

[The emperor has no clothes]

Don't care how big you build it, eventually it won't be big enough.

I wouldn't sink a bike lift into the floor (just my opinion).   All that does it make that spot a permanent location that nothing else works with/on.   I've relocated things in my shop a couple of times as my needs have changed.    As far as lighting, as long as it is on different circuits with switches, you can't have too much lighting. 

Rams

If in the future one doesn’t want an imbedded lift, it can be filled with concrete pretty cheaply and easily.

[Rams]

Don't care how big you build it, eventually it won't be big enough.

I wouldn't sink a bike lift into the floor (just my opinion).   All that does it make that spot a permanent location that nothing else works with/on.   I've relocated things in my shop a couple of times as my needs have changed.    As far as lighting, as long as it is on different circuits with switches, you can't have too much lighting.  

Rams

If in the future one doesn’t want an imbedded lift, it can be filled with concrete pretty cheaply and easily.

And from that point on, there are four seams to deal with when rolling things over it, four dirt collection channels.   Unless sealed, that fill in slab can also catch and hold moisture that can freeze and further damage the fill in slab.   Have seen it numerous times.   No thanks.   Not my shop, doesn't matter to me.   Back when I was a production manager, my facility had numerous holes filled with concrete.   All eventually had cracked edges and were a pain in the ass to deal with.    Just offering my opinion, others will vary.

Rams

[JimC]

Wingrider,

40x56 is plenty big to not have the lift in the ground, you should have plenty of spots to put it. Like Rams said, you may want to re-organize and move it at some point. I have an above ground hoist in mine and it does get in the way once in a while, I just had no other place to put, as I am only 24x42.

Register on the garage journal,      https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/    it was invaluable when I built my shop. I also have in floor heat, lots of insulation, white tin ceilings, overhead cabinets, sealed floors, all of witch I would recommend. 

I built mine about 6 years ago, prior to when LED lighting became affordable, or I would have gone with that. I do agree with the others though, put in more than you think yo will need on several switches so you can turn them on or off.

PM me if you have any questions, be glad to help.

Jim

[Jess from VA]

I would run some overhead lights just sufficient for general purposes (getting up there to change them may be a PITA).  Then I would plan to have extra lighting available in specific work areas (benches and tools), and portable lights (or movable/pivotable spots) to move around to anywhere I needed them for any particular job.  Multiple circuits seems very good advice.

Despite your best efforts (and cost) in general lighting, I have got more use out of this than any overhead lighting I ever had.  It goes where you go, and looks where you look, hands free.

[Rams]

It goes where you go, and looks where you look, hands free.

Hmmmm.  Lots of situations that could be useful....."..

[Gryphon Rider]

I would run some overhead lights just sufficient for general purposes (getting up there to change them may be a PITA).  Then I would plan to have extra lighting available in specific work areas (benches and tools), and portable lights (or movable/pivotable spots) to move around to anywhere I needed them for any particular job.  Multiple circuits seems very good advice.

Despite your best efforts (and cost) in general lighting, I have got more use out of this than any overhead lighting I ever had.  It goes where you go, and looks where you look, hands free.

And anyone can buy one, even a miner.

[wingrider02]

Thanks everyone for the opinions!  I already know that someday my shop will not be big enough for what I plan to do, so somewhere in the future I plan to build another building with cold storage in mind.  This was just for a shop, but will have to do a storage work first.

The reorganizing part is one of the cons I had for not want to bury it...as stated, you can fill in the hole, but there will always be the edges.  I would like to think it will be setup right from the get go, but I know better. 

I am making plans to mark out where a two tower car lift will sit.  I am getting tired of crawling under the cars to work on them.  All I plan to do right now is be sure there aren’t any tubing in the floor where the plates would be bolted down.

That garage journal seems like a good place for many ideas!

[¿spoom]

Thanks everyone for the opinions!  I already know that someday my shop will not be big enough for what I plan to do, so somewhere in the future I plan to build another building with cold storage in mind.  This was just for a shop, but will have to do a storage work first.

The reorganizing part is one of the cons I had for not want to bury it...as stated, you can fill in the hole, but there will always be the edges.  I would like to think it will be setup right from the get go, but I know better. 

I am making plans to mark out where a two tower car lift will sit.  I am getting tired of crawling under the cars to work on them.  All I plan to do right now is be sure there aren’t any tubing in the floor where the plates would be bolted down.

That garage journal seems like a good place for many ideas!

At 5'8", if I were going to put a lift in my garage, I'd cut a hole in it if I had to use a spoon! It is so much nicer to just roll straight into the front tire vise with no ramp or chance of spinning a tire or having a foot slip on a drop of oil on metal. Friend of mine had one at floor level in his single car garage. He kept the vise off and rolled the car right over it in daily use, it was the only way he could fit it in. If there's a place you are reasonably sure you'd like a lift, I'd absolutely do it recessed. On my buddy's, he also used the recess to help sneak under a car on a pair of simple ramps or jackstands. He'd remove the ramp and bring the car in straddling the hole.

[Rams]

Thanks everyone for the opinions!  I already know that someday my shop will not be big enough for what I plan to do, so somewhere in the future I plan to build another building with cold storage in mind.  This was just for a shop, but will have to do a storage work first.

The reorganizing part is one of the cons I had for not want to bury it...as stated, you can fill in the hole, but there will always be the edges.  I would like to think it will be setup right from the get go, but I know better.  

I am making plans to mark out where a two tower car lift will sit.  I am getting tired of crawling under the cars to work on them.  All I plan to do right now is be sure there aren’t any tubing in the floor where the plates would be bolted down.

That garage journal seems like a good place for many ideas!

At 5'8", if I were going to put a lift in my garage, I'd cut a hole in it if I had to use a spoon! It is so much nicer to just roll straight into the front tire vise with no ramp or chance of spinning a tire or having a foot slip on a drop of oil on metal. Friend of mine had one at floor level in his single car garage. He kept the vise off and rolled the car right over it in daily use, it was the only way he could fit it in. If there's a place you are reasonably sure you'd like a lift, I'd absolutely do it recessed. On my buddy's, he also used the recess to help sneak under a car on a pair of simple ramps or jackstands. He'd remove the ramp and bring the car in straddling the hole.

How and what a person does depends on many things.   What's good for my shop versus his or your friend's garage is completely dependent on what you intend to do with the space you have.     If all I had was a garage that I used for parking, I would probably agree.   His application is in a shop where I presume he's doing other things like I do.    

I had a bike lift table and got rid of it.   It simply took up too much room and didn't get used enough to make it an asset I wanted to keep.   I actually considered sinking that bike lift into my shop floor between the posts of my two post lift.   Realized quickly that was not a good idea.   Imagine trying to pull a transmission out of a cage while trying to walk on or stand on top of that bike lift.   Forget using a transmission jack.   I now use a bike jack.  Everyone must make their own decisions.   I wish I had placed my two post lift in a different position but, you live, make a few mistakes and hopefully learn from them.  

I've been working on a design for a bike lift attachment for my two post lift that would allow access from both sides but, haven't gotten around to actually trying to build it yet.    It's all about making the most use out of what you've got.   I definitely would not sink a bike lift into my shop floor but, we're not talking about my shop.    

Rams

[ptgb]

Dropped the lift table in to my floor about 2 1/2 years ago.... still don't regret it. It is a Titan lift, can't tell you exactly how high it goes, but I am six feet tall and the bike is plenty high to work on. The garage is heated, so no issues with freeze/thaw cycles.

Here's the thread about it...

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,82367.msg809729.html#msg809729


As to any other tips, lighting etc... no better advice than the above to check out the www.garagejournal.com. There are some guys on there that are incredible wealths of information about lighting etc... sometimes to the point of garage savants.

Good luck and have fun with the build, I sure did. 

[wingrider02]

Thanks ptgb!  Your project was one that I had seen way back when you did it, and made me think that I should do that as well!

I also became a member over at garagejounal.com to see what all I could learn!

I had thought about putting it in where the car lift will be,  but figured that may spoil the use of the car lift if I had to roll something underneath.

[gordonv]

I found the in floor lift.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,82367.0.html

I would place it under where the car parks, and only use it for when I want to work on the bike. Car can go outside till done.

[Mn. Norseman]

about twice a year costco has 4 ft led shop lights on sale for 20 bucks. I have 12 in the shop. Wow, bright, instant start, no flicker if its cold. used them to replace 8 8ft fluorescents. Perhaps building a "receiver" for the lift so you can safely ride on to it, then pull it away to work on. or hinged "wings" that would fold down as the lift is raised... Just a couple things I've been tossing around in my head for my lift.

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

I've got a new shop as of 6 years or so ago. My experience is that how you want it laid out will change a time or two as you work in it. If your jack is in the floor, you won't be able to change that aspect. Also, you really can't have too much light. I like LED lighting and have been installing quite a bit of it at the day job where additional light is needed but don't have any in my personal shop.

For my overhead lights I installed outlets on top of my trusses which are controlled by 3 way switches at each door. That way when one of my 4' units dies I can just unplug it and hang another one.

Another thing I did concerns my wall outlets. I installed conduit horizontally 50" above the floor all the way around the shop with 2 outlets in a 4" box about every 6'. That way I never have to reach under a workbench to access an outlet. I used only 20 amp back wire type outlets with 2 20 amp breakers for each wall. I wired it with left hand outlets on one breaker and right hand outlets on another so for instance I can plug 3 bench grinders and a band-saw all into one 4" box and without tripping a breaker even when we are using 2 or more of them at once.

I put in a full size 200 amp breaker box so I can run two air compressors, a welder, various other power equipment and a phase converter without overloading anything.

I had white sheet metal installed inside on the walls after they were insulated. The white may be a little boring but it makes the shop much brighter which is what I wanted.

The main thing I would have done differently is I would have made the shop a little bigger and I would have watched the contractor closer. He didn't use treated lumber around my overhead door bottoms and I'm going to have to dismantle them and fix that eventually since the wood is discoloring where it contacts the concrete. As I found out later, only treated wood should be in contact with concrete for the best durability.

[Rams]

I've got a new shop as of 6 years or so ago. My experience is that how you want it laid out will change a time or two as you work in it. If your jack is in the floor, you won't be able to change that aspect. Also, you really can't have too much light. I like LED lighting and have been installing quite a bit of it at the day job where additional light is needed but don't have any in my personal shop.

For my overhead lights I installed outlets on top of my trusses which are controlled by 3 way switches at each door. That way when one of my 4' units dies I can just unplug it and hang another one.

Another thing I did concerns my wall outlets. I installed conduit horizontally 50" above the floor all the way around the shop with 2 outlets in a 4" box about every 6'. That way I never have to reach under a workbench to access an outlet. I used only 20 amp back wire type outlets with 2 20 amp breakers for each wall. I wired it with left hand outlets on one breaker and right hand outlets on another so for instance I can plug 3 bench grinders and a band-saw all into one 4" box and without tripping a breaker even when we are using 2 or more of them at once.

I put in a full size 200 amp breaker box so I can run two air compressors, a welder, various other power equipment and a phase converter without overloading anything.

I had white sheet metal installed inside on the walls after they were insulated. The white may be a little boring but it makes the shop much brighter which is what I wanted.

The main thing I would have done differently is I would have made the shop a little bigger and I would have watched the contractor closer. He didn't use treated lumber around my overhead door bottoms and I'm going to have to dismantle them and fix that eventually since the wood is discoloring where it contacts the concrete. As I found out later, only treated wood should be in contact with concrete for the best durability.

Thanks for bringing these items up.   I also installed all of my wall outlets at 4 foot above the floor.   The contractor didn't understand why but did it.    Stuff always gets stacked up against walls, normally covering up wall outlets.   I also agree with the 200 amp breaker box, mine is similar to your shop.     Painted all my walls white and then installed corrugated roofing (tin) on my ceiling.    It reflects an amazing amount of light.

  One other thing I wanted to mention is  floor seams.    Places for planned floor cracks.    Per the manufacturer's guidelines of my two post lift, the lift posts should not have floor seams or cracks within 3 feet of the base.   Be sure your concrete contractor knows where you plan to install that auto lift.   I also used 4,000 PSI concrete instead of the 3,000 PSI that zoning required.    Additionally, knowing the planned location of the lift posts, the concrete surrounding the bases is 6" in depth in the location of the bases and the surrounding 4 feet.   

Rams

[hairyteeth]

I love my floor heat. My original intention was to heat it with waste wood in an outside boiler. The worst part was when I needed to be gone for a week and had to find people to stoke it. Installed a backup tank less boiler problem solved. Most floor lifts require anchoring if you can plan that far ahead stay away from anchor zones with under floor heat tubing. Also I like to make as many runs under floor with pvc for wiring and air service runs ( I didn't put air in the pvc just used the tubing as a chase). Even if all you do is just bury one run on each wall stubbed up to the panel you can save a lot of up and down the wall wire and clutter. Pour a rat wall around the building separate from the insulated heated slab floor. A gentle slope from the over head door to a central drain is nice if you plan on running snow laden vehicles inside. After insulating the walls and ceiling I found a place that sells steel siding cheap, they are called "seconds" and may have flaws but on the inside not noticeable and completes the look.  Mark

[Rams]

I love my floor heat. My original intention was to heat it with waste wood in an outside boiler. The worst part was when I needed to be gone for a week and had to find people to stoke it. Installed a backup tank less boiler problem solved. Most floor lifts require anchoring if you can plan that far ahead stay away from anchor zones with under floor heat tubing. Also I like to make as many runs under floor with pvc for wiring and air service runs ( I didn't put air in the pvc just used the tubing as a chase). Even if all you do is just bury one run on each wall stubbed up to the panel you can save a lot of up and down the wall wire and clutter. Pour a rat wall around the building separate from the insulated heated slab floor. A gentle slope from the over head door to a central drain is nice if you plan on running snow laden vehicles inside. After insulating the walls and ceiling I found a place that sells steel siding cheap, they are called "seconds" and may have flaws but on the inside not noticeable and completes the look.  Mark

All good suggestions.   I wish I had installed floor heat.   Alas, too late once the concrete is installed.

One thing I did when finishing the inside (after insulating the walls) was instead of using drywall, I used OSB plywood on my walls.   Having had garages with drywall previously (also with limited floor space), I hang a lot of stuff on the walls.   Some of the items I have hung was heavy and drywall could not support it.   Yeah, one should always hang stuff like that on studs but, that isn't always an option.   I did all of my walls with OSB screwed to the studs, top to bottom.   More expensive than drywall though.   It also takes more applications of paint to get that white (light reflecting) wall.   

Just something to consider, hanging heavy objects due to limited storage floor space may not be a problem for you, but always seems to bite me.   The OSB has provided me with much greater strength in the walls.   One does need to know that this will probably put you in violation of fire codes.   Drywall normally meets most fire codes, my OSB walls don't.   I knew this before I made the decision to go with OSB.   Should my shop go up in a fireball, I'm sure my insurance will deny coverage. 

[Hooter]

If I was going to build a new pole barn it would be more than motorcycle related. I still work on my own vehicles. Climbing around on the ground changing oil, doing brakes etc.. is getting old and harder all the time. A section of my barn would have a 14' ceiling and a vehicle lift, but that's just me. Not necessary if you farm out your vehicle maintenance.  

Outlets, lights. you can't have enough. Oh, when people see this new barn and want to "store" their "stuff" in your barn, the best way to outfit your barn is to say, "no".

[The emperor has no clothes]

I love my floor heat. My original intention was to heat it with waste wood in an outside boiler. The worst part was when I needed to be gone for a week and had to find people to stoke it. Installed a backup tank less boiler problem solved. Most floor lifts require anchoring if you can plan that far ahead stay away from anchor zones with under floor heat tubing. Also I like to make as many runs under floor with pvc for wiring and air service runs ( I didn't put air in the pvc just used the tubing as a chase). Even if all you do is just bury one run on each wall stubbed up to the panel you can save a lot of up and down the wall wire and clutter. Pour a rat wall around the building separate from the insulated heated slab floor. A gentle slope from the over head door to a central drain is nice if you plan on running snow laden vehicles inside. After insulating the walls and ceiling I found a place that sells steel siding cheap, they are called "seconds" and may have flaws but on the inside not noticeable and completes the look.  Mark

I've not heard of metal siding inside. Is the purpose more durability ?

[Hooter]

If you have constant heat / cooling metal is a good choice. Some fire departments use the perferrated metal on the walls , works fine. If there is no heat it can be an ice box in the winter or an oven in the summer.

A friend of mine has this as well,  but he has constant  heat or air in the summer. Comfortable place to work anytime.

[Hook#3287]

A gentle slope from the over head door to a central drain is nice if you plan on running snow laden vehicles inside.

It is nice, also required for any building housing vehicles.

IRC code states: R309.3 Floor surface. Garage floor surfaces shall be of approved noncombustible material. The area of floor used for parking of automobiles or other vehicles shall be sloped to facilitate the movement of liquids to a drain or toward the main vehicle entry doorway.

I know floor drains are not allowed in Mass, due to pollution of possible oil/gas spills, unless you have a
approved catch system.

[baldo]

A gentle slope from the over head door to a central drain is nice if you plan on running snow laden vehicles inside.

It is nice, also required for any building housing vehicles.

IRC code states: R309.3 Floor surface. Garage floor surfaces shall be of approved noncombustible material. The area of floor used for parking of automobiles or other vehicles shall be sloped to facilitate the movement of liquids to a drain or toward the main vehicle entry doorway.

I know floor drains are not allowed in Mass, due to pollution of possible oil/gas spills, unless you have a
approved catch system.

A friend of mine thought he was clever when he built his garage. He set up a drain, then covered it with a metal plate and skimmed concrete over it. That's the first place the inspector looked.............DOH....

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

I love my floor heat. My original intention was to heat it with waste wood in an outside boiler. The worst part was when I needed to be gone for a week and had to find people to stoke it. Installed a backup tank less boiler problem solved. Most floor lifts require anchoring if you can plan that far ahead stay away from anchor zones with under floor heat tubing. Also I like to make as many runs under floor with pvc for wiring and air service runs ( I didn't put air in the pvc just used the tubing as a chase). Even if all you do is just bury one run on each wall stubbed up to the panel you can save a lot of up and down the wall wire and clutter. Pour a rat wall around the building separate from the insulated heated slab floor. A gentle slope from the over head door to a central drain is nice if you plan on running snow laden vehicles inside. After insulating the walls and ceiling I found a place that sells steel siding cheap, they are called "seconds" and may have flaws but on the inside not noticeable and completes the look.  Mark

I've not heard of metal siding inside. Is the purpose more durability ?
 

I went with metal siding inside as well. If it gets dirty it can be washed. It's immune to sparks, won't absorb flammable liquids and should last forever if the structure stays sound.

[JimC]

I went with white metal on ceiling for light reflection and the fact that once up, you are done forever, no paint, no drywall to tape.

Also, I went with OSB for walls and sprayed them before moving anything in. That way you can mount outlets, fixtures, cabinets, etc. where ever you want them, or move them around after you change your mind, and you will change your mind numerous times.  lol

Another thing I did was buy about a dozen lateral file cabinets, and put them on casters so they can be pulled out from the wall to clean, or place some where else. They are great for holding tools and supplies. If they will hold a full load of paper, they will hold what ever you need to put in them.

Jim

[Jess from VA]

I'm a big fan of vertical filing cabinets (especially the deep ones).  They are reasonably priced (compared to nice tool towers), and can really hold a lot of stuff, and it's all easy to get to.

Man the idea for castors for mobility is a great idea (now you tell me). 

Mine are never moving again (the hell with that).

[shortleg]

Think any of us will tell you as much as you can afford on several cuts.
   Also think about lighting hung half way down the walls.
 I have found this to work quite well for getting rid of a lot of shadows.

[gordonv]

My brother added a hot water tank with a circulatory pump, for the floor heating. Inexpensive.

I liked the little wood burning stove in the wood working shop my dad and his buds build onto the back of one of their garages. Turned into a nice gathering place, now called a Man's Cave, and work on different projects. Took a little while to get the chill out of the room, but didn't cost much burning scrap wood/cut offs.

If you are going to hang drywall, might be nice to add 2x12 braces between the studs at the proper height, for behind the drywall to hang things from.

[3fan4life]

My brother added a hot water tank with a circulatory pump, for the floor heating. Inexpensive.

I liked the little wood burning stove in the wood working shop my dad and his buds build onto the back of one of their garages. Turned into a nice gathering place, now called a Man's Cave, and work on different projects. Took a little while to get the chill out of the room, but didn't cost much burning scrap wood/cut offs.

If you are going to hang drywall, might be nice to add 2x12 braces between the studs at the proper height, for behind the drywall to hang things from.

It's hard to beat a wood stove for good comfortable heat.


One local shop had a stove that burned used motor oil.

Probably, not practical for individuals but it worked well for them.

[Ramie]

Sounds like you've got a good plan Nate, especially the cement floor and in floor heat. 

My brother in-law in Prior Lake has a nice poll barn but he never put in the cement floor and everything in there seems to get moisture on it come the thaw time. 

Only thing I would have a problem with putting the lift in a pit is you could never move it if you needed to. 

I think I just got a notice of a coupon for HF lift for $299 if you're looking to get one now.

Let me know if you want me to send it to you.

Rick

[wingrider02]

Thanks Rick!  I plan to go with a different lift when the time comes.  Looking to get an air/ hydraulic  setup.

I do want to do this shed right as close to the first time as possible.

[Oldfishguy]

A couple of things:

Floor heat is a great move.  One needs to be really concerned with the stability of the ground first though.  I would imagine you are going to have a floating slab with thicker edges.  If that is the case your going to want to stabilize the sub concrete material for some time before pouring the concrete.  So, your ground work needs to be done waaaay ahead of time, before winter is best and then pour in spring.  If not then, wait at least for several major rainfalls and industrial compaction before pouring cement with tubing.  Otherwise, no matter how much rebar is in the concrete in a few years it will crack and shift in the spring with the frost heaves; possibly breaking your floor heat lines.  Find someone that has done this before, not just any old concrete guy.

Another thought is to have a shop within the shop.  Your talking a nice sized out building, it will be kind of pricey to heat that whole thing to T shirt weather all winter.  Maybe heat the large area to say 40 F and a nice size workable shop to say 70 F.  I know that means sectioning off the outbuilding, but it makes the structure practical. 

And plan on a minimum of 200 amp service.