Question

[Bighead]

I have read here numerous times when servicing rear end the proper way to re-install is to put all back together tightening axle then torque the 4gear case nuts (unless I have been reading wrong) the manual from Honda on page 12-19 tells you to install and torque nuts then install wheel then torque shock bolt? So which would be proper and why?

[Bighead]

I can't believe it no one has a response? First time for everything I guess

[Black Dog]

Most folks here follow the 'tighten the four drive shaft/punkin' nuts last' routine...  Keeps the binding of the drive splines to a minimum.

I really don't know what my repair manual says, but I follow the above procedure, when ever I get a new tire.

Hope someone else speaks up, to back me up  

Black Dog

[Joe Hummer]

Hey Barry,

I can't answer to why the Honda Manual is the way it is, but I will tell you my feelings on this process.

You hand tighten the final drive nuts first so things aren't just sloppy...then you tighten and torque the axle nut.  Doing this aligns the final drive on the axle.  Then you torque the final drive nuts.  

By aligning the final drive on the axle, you reduce the stresses on the bearings and splines.  Things mesh together better.  If you don't do this, you can suffer from premature bearing and/or spline failures.  

Maybe there is another play in that system and Honda doesn't feel it is an issue.  I have 137k miles on my bike and have always tightened the axle before the final drive and I still haven't had final drive issues.  I am not going to be changing my way of doing it.

Joe

[Patrick]

You're right. But, also read page 14-9

[Firefighter]

Maybe 12-19 is just telling how to assemble that section. After that it tells you to go to 14-8 to install the rear wheel. There it says rear brake caliper, axle nut and then the four nuts. This is all probably translated to english from Japanese.  Firefighter

[Chrisj CMA]

I have read here numerous times when servicing rear end the proper way to re-install is to put all back together tightening axle then torque the 4gear case nuts (unless I have been reading wrong) the manual from Honda on page 12-19 tells you to install and torque nuts then install wheel then torque shock bolt? So which would be proper and why?

you left out the word "temporarily"  then on page 14-9 you are told to loosen them again.  I just don't do that temporary tightening bit

Do it however you want.  But if you don't align the final drive to the wheel (this is done by torqueing the axle before the drive nuts) then you will experience worn splines.  I just sold one of my spare drives, so I wont be able to help too many of you, so I hope most of you do this

--drive on the swing arm finger tight on the 4 nuts
--NO SHOCK (just something else to impede the drive aligning to the wheel)
--set the caliper plate/install stopper pin
--Torque the axle
--torgue the 4 nuts

Now the rest don't matter one bit how you do it as long as it all gets done.

Or not, but the parts are expensive

Download my slide show.....I have done this a hundred times (well close) and I know what works, if you want to find out what doesn't work, then do it however you like.  Daniel Meyers has done it as many times or more probably, and he does it the same way or there abouts, He knows what works too.

[Tailgate Tommy]

Come to Inzane next year, watch Daniel do the rear end maintenance, ask questions, have fun, meet new friends, have fun -did I mention have some fun? Just saying...

Oh, and your bike looks really cool

[Yfx4]

It seems to me that everything after the u-joint should be tightend before the connection that involves the u-joint.

$0.02

[Bighead]

Hey Barry,

I can't answer to why the Honda Manual is the way it is, but I will tell you my feelings on this process.

You hand tighten the final drive nuts first so things aren't just sloppy...then you tighten and torque the axle nut.  Doing this aligns the final drive on the axle.  Then you torque the final drive nuts.  

By aligning the final drive on the axle, you reduce the stresses on the bearings and splines.  Things mesh together better.  If you don't do this, you can suffer from premature bearing and/or spline failures.  

Maybe there is another play in that system and Honda doesn't feel it is an issue.  I have 137k miles on my bike and have always tightened the axle before the final drive and I still haven't had final drive issues.  I am not going to be changing my way of doing it.

Joe

This makes perfect sense I was unaware  you had to jump two sections in the manual To install a rear tire
Thanks for the info. I had to stop where I was anyway , shock bushings were toast. Even had a bottom one that was bad Mother honda says they are the same part. No true they are completely different so I called Darrell at XF6 customs talked with him and he said he doesn't make one for the bottom because they don't go bad well one of mine did so he is making me bottom bushings as well as top

[Valkpilot]

You're right. But, also read page 14-9

Since some may not have the manual handy, 14-9 says to loosen the 4 final drive nuts before reassembling, then torque the axle nut, then tighten the final drive nuts.

It also explains that this is to insure proper alignment.

[Chrisj CMA]

It seems to me that everything after the u-joint should be tightend before the connection that involves the u-joint.

$0.02

Which connection "that involves the U-Joint" would you be referring to?  Bottom line when installing the final drive.  TORQUE THE AXLE BEFORE THE 4 NUTS ON THE DRIVE. 

[72cutlassdude]

javascript:void(0);Two thumbs up to Chrisj! I downloaded his slide show last June when I did my first rear tire change and rear end service on my Interstate. Made the task very easy!

[Tailgate Tommy]

javascript:void(0);Two thumbs up to Chrisj! I downloaded his slide show last June when I did my first rear tire change and rear end service on my Interstate. Made the task very easy!

+1 Me 2

[PAVALKER]

Hey Barry,

I can't answer to why the Honda Manual is the way it is, but I will tell you my feelings on this process.

You hand tighten the final drive nuts first so things aren't just sloppy...then you tighten and torque the axle nut.  Doing this aligns the final drive on the axle.  Then you torque the final drive nuts.  

By aligning the final drive on the axle, you reduce the stresses on the bearings and splines.  Things mesh together better.  If you don't do this, you can suffer from premature bearing and/or spline failures.  
.
Maybe there is another play in that system and Honda doesn't feel it is an issue.  I have 137k miles on my bike and have always tightened the axle before the final drive and I still haven't had final drive issues.  I am not going to be changing my way of doing it.

Joe

This makes perfect sense I was unaware  you had to jump two sections in the manual To install a rear tire
Thanks for the info. I had to stop where I was anyway , shock bushings were toast. Even had a bottom one that was bad Mother honda says they are the same part. No true they are completely different so I called Darrell at XF6 customs talked with him and he said he doesn't make one for the bottom because they don't go bad well one of mine did so he is making me bottom bushings as well as top

Those shock bushings are the same, top and bottom.  I used the green poly nylon VTX Bushings, ordered a set of 4.  You have to take out the metal sleeve on the bottom ones, remove all the bushings, reinstall all the bushings and then press in the metal sleeves on the bottom.  I just did that last month on my newer to me IS.  I used a small diameter deep well socket to press those sleeves out.  Oh, and put some lube on it when you put it back in.

http://www.directlineparts.com/product.asp?pid=44477&str=1&mdl=&mdy

[Bambam650]

I realize this is a relatively old thread, but I thought I would give it a try and see if I get a response.  I am getting ready to do a final drive service on my '97 standard.  I've downloaded Chris' PP guide, but am still a bit confused over which parts/areas to apply the molly paste and which parts/areas to apply the heavy duty grease.  I would appreciate if someone could clarify that for me.

Thanks in advance.

[big poppa pump]

Read this.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,23305.0.html

[mike72903]

I just finished my first rear end maintance and tire change. In additionto CrisJ  photos found he Rattlebars guide to be very helpful as it is pretty detailed.  http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/valkmaintenanceguide.html   Still with all the different sources a few issues arose that were not mentioned.  Thankfully the members here were quick to offer help. No one made fun of my ignorace and I was plenty ignorant as I had never even see this done.

[Bambam650]

Thanks BPP for the link.  It makes a lot more sense to me now.  I didn't realize this was such a controversial topic.  Hope I didn't start another "oil" thread.