new motorcycle shed...

[hubcapsc]

There's the beginnings of a shed in this thread: http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,110394

Now it looks like this:



I had to travel to a bigger town to get those 16 foot long four by sixes, they don't have
them at the little Lowes in my town. Drove over in Carolyn's 97 F250 diesel boat and
hauled them back with 10 ft in the bed and 6 ft hanging out. It was probably annoying
for others as I slowed way down for the expansion joints over some really long bridges
over lake Hartwell...

What you see in the picture is pinned together with rebar... I drill holes with my old 36volt
drill and giant bit, and pound the rebar pins in with a 5 lb sledge... flex-volt reciprocating
saw with metal blades to cut the rebar. There's an old thread about the shelf life of old
motor oil - it still works good after 10 years as metal saw blade lubricant  ...

-Mike "next: blocking..."

[f6john]

What’s the plan for flooring?

[_Sheffjs_]

Where is the built in lift? 

[hubcapsc]

What’s the plan for flooring?

After I put in the blocking for nailing, I'll flap out 6 sheets of treated three quarter inch
CDX, screw it down and call it a deck... once I have a deck I can start on the walls.
I will very much enjoy using boards (two by fours) that I'm strong enough to lift  ... I've
changed tires and rebuilt forks and other not-the-whole-motorcycle kinds of maintenance
in the smaller shed that the 1500 lives in (too small to work on a motorcycle in) and
the CDX floor in it still seems fine to me...

What do you think?

-Mike

[scooperhsd]

I hope that stuff touching the ground is pressure treated....

[hubcapsc]

I hope that stuff touching the ground is pressure treated....

Not just pressure treated... treated for ground contact.

-Mike

[hubcapsc]

Where is the built in lift? 

That's in the second bay past the lunch room...

-Mike

[Jess from VA]

Both my 10 by 12 sheds were partially assembled and built on site by the sellers (right on the ground like yours).  These sheds are built on three 12" 4 x 4 pressure treat skids, and I trenched and leveled for those three skids, and lined the trenches with solid 4" cement blocks for the skids to sit on.  My soil is pure clay.

I paid extra for double 3/4" marine grade plywood floors for both.  Nearly 30 years later, the floors are the best part of both sheds.  Concrete walk and driveway is poured to the doors, but I designed it so I have an inch and half floor above the concrete, so water can't run in them.  But easy to push out and ride in.

I got some animal(s?) moved in under one of them in back years ago (possum/raccoon?).  First I laid down poison, and later back-filled the hole with lots of gravel and no one ever came back.

Do not keep anything that can be considered food (seed) in it, ever.

The other thing I did, was buy many tubes of good caulk, and caulked every crack and joint in the building very well, inside and out, then double coated them with oil base exterior paint.  I've had to do some touch up a few times, but not much.  My doors are rotting at the bottom as they were not pressure treat.  I am thinking of trying to repair just the bottoms with some of that spendy vinyl/PVC board. The roofs are shingle, and no ridge vent came with the deal, so I only have a small 6 X 12 louvered/screened vents front and back (very little air from those).

I also trenched for 110 with in-ground quality Romex (covered with bricks and pressure treat scrap), and wired both sheds for lights and electric (all GFCI), and put an overhead fan in the bike shed, which really helps in high heat (though I have to roll them out to work on with both interstates in one shed).

I see you are on a gentle downslope, and maybe some drainage out the back would be a good idea, but any way for water to escape probably means there's a way for animals to move in.

Both sheds have gambrel roofs (about 9'6" at the peaks), and I built a small storage loft across the rear third of each shed (2X4 structure and one sheet of 3/8 plywood each), and a ton of stuff can get stored up there. 

I'm no engineer, or carpenter Mike.

[hubcapsc]

My doors are rotting at the bottom as they were not pressure treat.  I am thinking of trying to repair just the bottoms with some of that spendy vinyl/PVC board.

I haven't seen your doors, but there's every chance this stuff would fix
them...

https://www.abatron.com/product/liquidwood/

-Mike

[Rams]

There's the beginnings of a shed in this thread: http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,110394

Now it looks like this:

I'm curious as to why you didn't just go with a concrete pad?

Rams

[Jess from VA]

My doors are rotting at the bottom as they were not pressure treat.  I am thinking of trying to repair just the bottoms with some of that spendy vinyl/PVC board.

I haven't seen your doors, but there's every chance this stuff would fix
them...

https://www.abatron.com/product/liquidwood/

-Mike

Thank you, but I waited too long for that.  I'm missing chunks of some door bottoms (it's covered, but with redneck engineering).  

And can't be seen from the house.  

I really need new doors.  The company I bought from is long gone and I can't find any others ready made.  And, they used piano hinges with 500 nails in the ones I have.

[ridingron]

I see you are on a gentle downslope, and maybe some drainage out the back would be a good idea, but any way for water to escape probably means there's a way for animals to move in.
   

Maybe fill between the floor beams with rocks? Allows drainage and keeps the critters out.

[Rams]

I see you are on a gentle downslope, and maybe some drainage out the back would be a good idea, but any way for water to escape probably means there's a way for animals to move in.
    

Maybe fill between the floor beams with rocks? Allows drainage and keeps the critters out.

Definitely fill with gravel.  Although, I can't judge the grade, assuming it's level, I'd also consider a French drain or ditch to allow any water to drain down that valley.   (Just my opinion, ain't worth much but, it's all mine)

Rams

[hubcapsc]

I'm curious as to why you didn't just go with a concrete pad?

I'm no good at concrete flatwork. Don't want to mix concrete. Don't
want to enlist the aid of the concrete plant, the concrete truck or a
concrete contractor. Don't want machines in there doing grading. There's
a big old dogwood a few feet away on one side, a big old oak tree a few
feet away on the other side and a big old dogwood a few feet away on the
back. I'll be able to roll the bike in and out where I put the deck, a
concrete pad at the same height would have required moving in dirt
at the back and whacker-packers and whatever else...

-Mike  

[Rams]

I'm curious as to why you didn't just go with a concrete pad?

I'm no good at concrete flatwork. Don't want to mix concrete. Don't
want to enlist the aid of the concrete plant, the concrete truck or a
concrete contractor. Don't want machines in there doing grading. There's
a big old dogwood a few feet away on one side, a big old oak tree a few
feet away on the other side and a big old dogwood a few feet away on the
back. I'll be able to roll the bike in and out where I put the deck, a
concrete pad at the same height would have required moving in dirt
at the back and whacker-packers and whatever else...

-Mike  

All good reasons and that's good enough for me.   

Rams

[3fan4life]

My doors are rotting at the bottom as they were not pressure treat.  I am thinking of trying to repair just the bottoms with some of that spendy vinyl/PVC board.

I haven't seen your doors, but there's every chance this stuff would fix
them...

https://www.abatron.com/product/liquidwood/

-Mike

Thank you, but I waited too long for that.  I'm missing chunks of some door bottoms (it's covered, but with redneck engineering).  

And can't be seen from the house.  

I really need new doors.  The company I bought from is long gone and I can't find any others ready made.  And, they used piano hinges with 500 nails in the ones I have.

Jess,

I've got a guy near me that builds sheds.

He built one of mine and does great work.


I can hook you up with him if you'd like.

I'll bet that if you could supply him with the measurements and some pics that he could make you some new doors.

The downside is that you'd probably have to come to Moneta and pick them up.

[Jersey mike]

I agree with stone/gravel (maybe 3/4” stone) between the floor beams with a layer of ground landscaping paper first. Keeping critters out will be important too. If you don’t seal up tight to grade try some metal masons lath, it will allow for some air flow under there. Critters like skunks like to burrow.

I’m not a fan of ridge vents so if you have plans for electric out there, an electric attic fan would be good to have as well as a couple contractors grade windows for natural light and extra air flow especially if you’re going to store gas in there.

Not sure what your plans are for siding, but I’m still a fan of 30# tar paper underlayment instead of Tyvec. 

Good luck and I hope it comes out great.

[Rams]

I agree with stone/gravel (maybe 3/4” stone) between the floor beams with a layer of ground landscaping paper first. Keeping critters out will be important too. If you don’t seal up tight to grade try some metal masons lath, it will allow for some air flow under there. Critters like skunks like to burrow.

I’m not a fan of ridge vents so if you have plans for electric out there, an electric attic fan would be good to have as well as a couple contractors grade windows for natural light and extra air flow especially if you’re going to store gas in there.

Not sure what your plans are for siding, but I’m still a fan of 30# tar paper underlayment instead of Tyvec.  

Good luck and I hope it comes out great.

Personally speaking, knowing critters like to burrow under sheds like that, after filling any voids with gravel, I’d recommend spreading some quikcreet (bagged concrete mix) over the top.  Will solidify the stone and discourage those critters.   But that’s just me.

Rams

[Hook#3287]

Looking good.

Unfortunately, even Ground Contact Rated PT can rot.  Probably won't happen in our life time though

I'd remove as much dirt as possible, that is against the wood.

Now's the time to consider rain water control.  Also a 12" overhang keeps a lot of weather off the siding.

Gutters and downspouts are hugh.

The goal is to keep as much moisture from going under the floor system and to vent what does get in there out.

3/4 PT ply for the floor would be enough, but as Jess suggested, a double ply and you could probably park a D-9 on it.

If you use T-111 ply for the wall sheathing, you get the siding also.   As long as you keep a coat of paint/stain on it and control moisture on it, it will last forever.

Tyvek is designed for heated structures.  Synthetic 30# rated roofing underlayment is better than the old school tar paper and easier to work with.  But isn't needed if you do the T-111.

[DDT (12)]

Mike,

You are... inventive, imaginative, creative... and an absolute character! Punisher texted me a utube link that reveals yet another side to you I did not know existed... singing and guitar playing! I'd repost that link here, if I new how... See, I'm nowhere near in your league when it comes to managing interesting stuff... Oh well, at least I can rely upon my friends to fill any voids in my life... Friends just like you!!! 'Play on', my friend...

DDT

[hubcapsc]

Mike,

You are... inventive, imaginative, creative... and an absolute character! Punisher texted me a utube link that reveals yet another side to you I did not know existed... singing and guitar playing! I'd repost that link here, if I new how... See, I'm nowhere near in your league when it comes to managing interesting stuff... Oh well, at least I can rely upon my friends to fill any voids in my life... Friends just like you!!! 'Play on', my friend...

DDT

The Standin' song, I guess 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFAiFRTFF98

I'm nowhere near in your league when it comes to managing interesting stuff

You probably have the most interesting times any of us knows about... 

-Mike

[Cracker Jack]

Hubcap, If you have any questions or need any advise just ask. It MAY not be necessary to ask if you just stay tuned. 

[DDT (12)]

Mike,

You are... inventive, imaginative, creative... and an absolute character! Punisher texted me a utube link that reveals yet another side to you I did not know existed... singing and guitar playing! I'd repost that link here, if I new how... See, I'm nowhere near in your league when it comes to managing interesting stuff... Oh well, at least I can rely upon my friends to fill any voids in my life... Friends just like you!!! 'Play on', my friend...

DDT

The Standin' song, I guess 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFAiFRTFF98

I'm nowhere near in your league when it comes to managing interesting stuff

You're probably have the most interesting times any of us knows about... 

-Mike

Mike,

Yep, that's the link! Nashville look out!!! Looking forward to the time we can all get back together... Until then, at least we have our electronic clubhouse...

DDT

[Jess from VA]

Jess,

I've got a guy near me that builds sheds.

He built one of mine and does great work.

I can hook you up with him if you'd like.

Thanks Mark, I'll keep it in mind.

There's plenty of guys up here that can probably do it too.  I probably could too, but don't want to.

I found some perfectly fitting heavy rubber door mats and stapled them across the lower inside of each door, up where the wood is still good.  They just sweep the concrete in front, are impervious to water, keep all bugs and critters out and won't rot. 

Of course they are the epitome of redneck engineering and look terrible (so I avoid looking at them).

[hubcapsc]

Hubcap, If you have any questions or need any advise just ask. It MAY not be necessary to ask if you just stay tuned. 

I'm lucky everyone cares 

-Mike

[3fan4life]

Mike,

You are... inventive, imaginative, creative... and an absolute character! Punisher texted me a utube link that reveals yet another side to you I did not know existed... singing and guitar playing! I'd repost that link here, if I new how... See, I'm nowhere near in your league when it comes to managing interesting stuff... Oh well, at least I can rely upon my friends to fill any voids in my life... Friends just like you!!! 'Play on', my friend...

DDT

The Standin' song, I guess 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFAiFRTFF98

I'm nowhere near in your league when it comes to managing interesting stuff

You probably have the most interesting times any of us knows about... 

-Mike

Remind me to get your autograph the next time I see you.

[DDT (12)]

Of course they are the epitome of redneck engineering and look terrible (so I avoid looking at them).

Jess,

Great 'technique'! You do know how to adapt and adjust...

DDT

[Deerslayer]

There's the beginnings of a shed in this thread: http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,110394

Now it looks like this:



I had to travel to a bigger town to get those 16 foot long four by sixes, they don't have
them at the little Lowes in my town. Drove over in Carolyn's 97 F250 diesel boat and
hauled them back with 10 ft in the bed and 6 ft hanging out. It was probably annoying
for others as I slowed way down for the expansion joints over some really long bridges
over lake Hartwell...

What you see in the picture is pinned together with rebar... I drill holes with my old 36volt
drill and giant bit, and pound the rebar pins in with a 5 lb sledge... flex-volt reciprocating
saw with metal blades to cut the rebar. There's an old thread about the shelf life of old
motor oil - it still works good after 10 years as metal saw blade lubricant   ...

-Mike "next: blocking..."

Looks great so far.

I've been a home builder the past 46 years I absolutely love to follow projects like this.

I wouldn't worry about the ground contact timbers, they will out live you... I've had some in the ground 30 years at my crawl space access on my modest little home. It's still solid.

I agree with someone who suggested t1-11 for sheathing/siding.. damn near bullet proof if you keep up on the paint. Purchase the best paint your budget allows & make sure to paint the bottom edge.

Being at unheated space, there is no need for any kind of building paper or house wrap behind your siding.. save your coin. just make sure you have adequate ventilation. 50% Low - 50% up high.

I 100% agree with someone who mentioned they are not a fan of roof ridge vents. they are not adequate.

couple key points for longevity.
do your best to control water & if it gets wet allow it to dry up.
ventilation, ventilation, ventilation.

Looking forward to seeing the progress.

Best of luck.... Slayer

[hubcapsc]

do your best to control water & if it gets wet allow it to dry up.

Thanks  I put a section of half-round gutter (I have some more)
on my small shed, and made "water logs" (ridges of dirt) on the uphill
side to cause water to run away from the shed... I keep meaning to make
something with that ugly fence section  ...



A good foundation and a good roof make for a long lasting structure...

-Mike

[Jess from VA]

I keep meaning to make something with that ugly fence section.

If it's sound wood, and you could use one, it could be a the structural top of a big outside work bench with legs and a top added (or half of it).  Maybe circular saw off the picket ends flush with the horizontal runners, top and bottom.

Or maybe part of a workbench (or shelves) for your new shed (maybe cut to thirds or fourths for a narrow bench/shelf).

Also, it's better if the gutter doesn't just drop water at the back corners of your shed.  If you don't use downspouts with 4' (or so) of PVC hose, run the gutters out past the end of the building and put a stone or tile down to splash it away from the building.

 

[hubcapsc]

Off to Lowes this morning for some more 4x6 material, and then
me and my helper put in some of the blocking... the rest of the
blocking will just be 2x4...



-Mike

[Deerslayer]

Off to Lowes this morning for some more 4x6 material, and then
me and my helper put in some of the blocking... the rest of the
blocking will just be 2x4...



-Mike

I use to have a helper like that.. I called him my 'Watch Dog'

he was always fascinated with all of my projects & would watch me all day long... and was always 2 steps behind me as I packed my materials to & fro.

Damn, I miss my little buddy.

..Slayer

[Skinhead]

That looks like a supervisor to me.  Mine is always right where I'm going to put my feet when I walk.

[hubcapsc]

That looks like a supervisor to me.  Mine is always right where I'm going to put my feet when I walk.

My yellow cat helps too... she likes to spring from out of nowhere and try to
put her feet right where I'm jambing the digging bar    ??? 



-Mike "digging bar next to shovel..."

[Skinhead]

BTW Mike, I liked your performance.  Do do any banjo pickin'?

[hubcapsc]

BTW Mike, I liked your performance.  Do do any banjo pickin'?

Thanks  ... no banjer, that thing's incomprehensible.

-Mike

[Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005]

I'm curious as to why you didn't just go with a concrete pad?

I'm no good at concrete

-Mike  

I call BS on this I saw the concrete wall for the someday garage / work shop and also the concrete holding your house up.

[hubcapsc]

I'm curious as to why you didn't just go with a concrete pad?

I'm no good at concrete

-Mike  

I call BS on this I saw the concrete wall for the someday garage / work shop and also the concrete holding your house up.

Hello Joe...

Thanks 

I studied books and made good forms... good concrete flat work
requires actual skill...

-Mike

[hubcapsc]

OK... time to get out of the dirt and put down the plywood 



-Mike

[hubcapsc]

I had to decide whether to get marine AB plywood (available in town) or
treated-for-ground-contact CD over in the next town. I decided on
marine grade... wow... nice surface and it lays flat before it is even
screwed down...



-Mike