Saving The RustyValkry

[RustyValkry]

If you haven't seen my thread "New Member" under the General folder I bought a 1998 Valkyrie standard a few weeks ago.  It's in bad shape though it only has 22,080 miles on it.  I'm snow birding in Florida so need stuff to occupy myself and I've always thought I'd like to pick up a Valkyrie.  Needless to say I have my work cut out for me.

The PO is 80 years old and he's not even sure when he last rode it.  The engine is free and the battery holds a charge - wow - small miracles.  The rest is up to me.  I haven't started on it in earnest yet because I have another bike on the jack that I need to finish.  I have a rule, only one vehicle torn down at a time, it helps preserve my sanity (STOP LAUGHING!!!   )

Here's a pic. of the bike with the 'stuff' he had for it.  (It looks better in the pics than in person)

[RustyValkry]

I just found out how much you can put in one post, not as much as the previous one and this one combined.  I may be dumb but I'm not stupid.

I reached a point on my other bike at which I had to stop for a few days so I figured I'd spend some time TLCing the bags and Corbin seat.  I haven't gotten a picture of the seat but here's a close up of the bags before I started on them.  

[RustyValkry]

Oh wait, I guess I AM Dumb and Stupid because part of my original post IS missing.  Ah well, I really WANTED to have to type it again.

I'm at a point with the other bike at which I have to wait for a few days to finish it.  In the meantime I figured I'd clean the leather bags and the seat.  The previous post has the before pictures of the front of the bags.  They're not the worst I've tried to bring back.  When I first got the bike home I tried to find a tag or label or something on the bags telling me what they are but I didn't find one.  

Yesterday as I was cleaning them I found the stamp pictured below UNDER the lid.  American Eagle Leatherworks, Inc. Greenville, SC.  I found the website and they appear to still be in business.  I found those specific bags, Rendezvous, retailing for $700, WOW, seems like a lot, I wouldn't spend that much - but they are nice bags if a little the worse for wear.

I brushed them first with a dry nylon scrub brush to get the chunks and cobwebs off, blew them off/out with air then saddle soaped them a couple times.  After they've dried for a couple days I'll decide what to use next though I'm leaning toward Doc Bailey's to get some black dye back into the leather.  It may be that I will need to saddle soap them again though.

[RustyValkry]

Going out in a few minutes to pick up some Dot 4 brake fluid and maybe some final drive oil.

If someone wants to take pity on me and just post here what weight fork oil is equivalent to Pro Honda Suspension oil SS-8 I'd appreciate it. 

Couple more pics of the bags . . . just because.

[Chrisj CMA]

I don’t know about anyone else. But those tiny degraded thumbnail pictures don’t open for me. If you are going to be documenting a whole restoration you may want to find a better way to post pictures

[Timbo1]

I don’t know about anyone else. But those tiny degraded thumbnail pictures don’t open for me. If you are going to be documenting a whole restoration you may want to find a better way to post pictures

They open for me but it seems Imagebox.com is just horribly slow taking almost 30 seconds to render the images. 

I notice using postimage.cc, Kaspersky detects and blocks a script that is reported as HEUR:AdWare.Script.Pusher.gen. 

IDK what image hosting site to suggest that's free, quick, reliable & not loaded with adware.

[hubcapsc]

I clicked on one and got girls with not enough clothes on...

-Mike

[Timbo1]

If you haven't seen my thread "New Member" under the General folder I bought a 1998 Valkyrie standard a few weeks ago.  It's in bad shape though it only has 22,080 miles on it.  I'm snow birding in Florida so need stuff to occupy myself and I've always thought I'd like to pick up a Valkyrie.  Needless to say I have my work cut out for me.

The PO is 80 years old and he's not even sure when he last rode it.  The engine is free and the battery holds a charge - wow - small miracles.  The rest is up to me.  I haven't started on it in earnest yet because I have another bike on the jack that I need to finish.  I have a rule, only one vehicle torn down at a time, it helps preserve my sanity (STOP LAUGHING!!!   )

Here's a pic. of the bike with the 'stuff' he had for it.  (It looks better in the pics than in person)

I picked up a 98 Black Valk earlier this year in similar condition.  Had been sitting a "Couple" years according to the PO, but when I got into the hydraulics I thought it had been much longer since all the fluids had turned to either green cottage cheese or crusty yellow powder like what you see on battery terminals.  It had lot's of surface rust, dried out leather bags etc...   I was surprised how well the chrome polished up using 0000 steel wool and soapy water and lots of elbow grease followed up with some polishing compound.  Can still see some pits in the chrome in spots if looking closely but overall it cleaned up well I think. 

Here's a list of what I did to get it back to being road worthy.  It's no show bike but it runs & rides great.
Complete carb clean and rebuild.
New fuel line and fuel rail seals
Clean and flush tank
Cleaned and rebuilt petcock
Desmogged
All hydraulic systems flushed, cleaned and rebuilt, all master cylinders and clutch slave cylinder
Radiator flush & new thermostat
Final drive seals, greased splines and changed oil in pumpkin
Battery
Tires
Oil & filter
Removed the dry cracked saddle bags and removed sissy bar & passenger seat and turned it into a solo ride.  And added a Mustang studded fender cover that I'd had for 15 or so years.

Before




After.  I've since picked up some fiberglass bags from a salvage that I''ll hopefully finish repairing and painting before this summer.

[RustyValkry]

I've got some more pictures to post of bleeding the clutch.  I'll see if there is anything else I can do on the site to alter the loading time but I sorta doubt it.  I may have to try to find another alternative.  I agree that there might not be a really good alternative in which case I'll go without pictures or just not do a thread.

[RustyValkry]

I spent some time looking at other alternatives for picture hosting including the one here, what is it photostash, something like that?  None of them seem all that great, I couldn't even find my user number to try logging in to the one here so I guess I'll not post pictures, at least until I figure something out.  Too bad, photos can make a thread much more interesting and enjoyable, both to do and to view.

Today I cleaned out the clutch master reservoir.  It had some water/sludge at the bottom but it wasn't horrible.  I got the reservoir nice and clean and filled it with fluid and hooked my Mityvac to the bleeder for a flush.  I pumped up to 15 or 20 pounds of vacuum and kept dumping in clean fluid till I filled the Mityvac's reservoir.  I probably pulled 8 or 10 oz. of fluid through it.  When I had it sealed again and tried the clutch I was pleased that I could hear it actuating.  I don't think it was releasing before.

The PO included the stock seat and pillion.  It was cruddy so today I washed it several times getting it ready to put on the bike.  I was surprised at it's condition in the end, there isn't a blemish on it anywhere.  I'm going to keep the Corbin seat off for a while so I can work on it.  I do want to go with the Corbin since it has a rider back rest and I have trouble riding without a backrest.

I think tomorrow I'll flush the front brakes though I'll have to get more fluid.  Guess I should have gotten a quart instead of a pint.  What the heck, it's an excuse to jump on my brother's bke for a short ride.

[Hook#3287]

RustyValkry, try

https://postimages.org/

for pictures, it's relatively easy to navigate.

Hey Timbo1, nice job.  Bike looks awesome.

[Bighead]

Or try Imgbb.com free and easy and will load full pics

[sandy]

Going out in a few minutes to pick up some Dot 4 brake fluid and maybe some final drive oil.

If someone wants to take pity on me and just post here what weight fork oil is equivalent to Pro Honda Suspension oil SS-8 I'd appreciate it. 

Stock fork oil is 10W. Some use 15 but some think it’s too harsh. I have HyperPro springs with 15W and love it.

[RustyValkry]

RustyValkry, try

https://postimages.org/

for pictures, it's relatively easy to navigate.

Hey Timbo1, nice job.  Bike looks awesome.

PostImage!!  That's the one!!!!! 

Two or 3 years ago the forum I frequent most often required an image hosting site to post pictures just like here.  I tried a number before I found one I liked but I couldn't remember what site I settled on and couldn't find any information about it in my 'stuff'.  Your post reminded me and I was then able to get back to my account.  I'll see if it still works as well as it did back then.

Thanks!

[RustyValkry]

This is a test of PostImages hosting.  Bear with me as I can't remember how I placed it.
Do either of these work better for those who had problems before?

Thumbnail for forums


Hotlink for forums

[RustyValkry]

I couldn't post the before shot without the after shot.

[Chrisj CMA]

Use hotlink for forums

[RustyValkry]

Use hotlink for forums

I can do that.

[Timbo1]

Images look fine to me as well as your master cylinder.    

For comparison this is what I was talking about earlier about green cottage cheese in the one I went through.  The clutch wouldn't work at all and the brakes were seized.  Rear brake master cylinder was the only one not full of green goo.


Clutch Master Cylinder



Slave Cylinder

[RustyValkry]

Yea, I'd say your bike sat longer and had little maintenance but it looks like it had less surface corrosion .  The PO of mine said he had regular maintenance performed until the last few years when he began having physical issues.  Any flat surface on mine has corrosion and the chrome is lifting in many places because the salt air could get to it.

I was quite happy that the clutch SEEMS to have come back.  I wasn't wanting to have to pull the s lotlave cylinder.

[OnaWingandaPrayer]

Welcome to the forum.  Give her some love and you will be rewarded with years/miles of good service. Enjoy the rides.
Thanks for sharing the photos. ( I was able to see the first ones in the thread ) The scantily clad comic strip girls tempt you to go to a game site, umm not gonna happen .

[baldo]

If you haven't seen my thread "New Member" under the General folder I bought a 1998 Valkyrie standard a few weeks ago.  It's in bad shape though it only has 22,080 miles on it.  I'm snow birding in Florida so need stuff to occupy myself and I've always thought I'd like to pick up a Valkyrie.  Needless to say I have my work cut out for me.

The PO is 80 years old and he's not even sure when he last rode it.  The engine is free and the battery holds a charge - wow - small miracles.  The rest is up to me.  I haven't started on it in earnest yet because I have another bike on the jack that I need to finish.  I have a rule, only one vehicle torn down at a time, it helps preserve my sanity (STOP LAUGHING!!!   )

Here's a pic. of the bike with the 'stuff' he had for it.  (It looks better in the pics than in person)

I picked up a 98 Black Valk earlier this year in similar condition.  Had been sitting a "Couple" years according to the PO, but when I got into the hydraulics I thought it had been much longer since all the fluids had turned to either green cottage cheese or crusty yellow powder like what you see on battery terminals.  It had lot's of surface rust, dried out leather bags etc...   I was surprised how well the chrome polished up using 0000 steel wool and soapy water and lots of elbow grease followed up with some polishing compound.  Can still see some pits in the chrome in spots if looking closely but overall it cleaned up well I think.

Here's a list of what I did to get it back to being road worthy.  It's no show bike but it runs & rides great.
Complete carb clean and rebuild.
New fuel line and fuel rail seals
Clean and flush tank
Cleaned and rebuilt petcock
Desmogged
All hydraulic systems flushed, cleaned and rebuilt, all master cylinders and clutch slave cylinder
Radiator flush & new thermostat
Final drive seals, greased splines and changed oil in pumpkin
Battery
Tires
Oil & filter
Removed the dry cracked saddle bags and removed sissy bar & passenger seat and turned it into a solo ride.  And added a Mustang studded fender cover that I'd had for 15 or so years.

Before




After.  I've since picked up some fiberglass bags from a salvage that I''ll hopefully finish repairing and painting before this summer.

WOW, that really cleaned up nice and proper!

I bought mine from a doctor that lived in one of the more tony communities near Boston. Right on the water, outside under a tarp for five years. Lots of corrosion, still a work in progress.

[f-Stop]

Hi RustyValkry!

Congrats on your new ride/project! 

As a fellow '98 Standard owner, you may find the stock seat mighty uncomfortable.  I bought mine in '08 with a Corbin solo seat on it.  The stock seat with pillion came along as extras.  Couldn't ride on the stock seat for more than 20 minutes without extreme discomfort.  I tried recovering and extra padding with no improvements. 

As far as a third party photo site, I used to use Photobucket, but they started charging way too much $$ for their site, plus the pictures started showing up here as full res files which looked wrong.  I think it has something to do with Photobucket abandoning the type of script this site uses.

Anyway, good luck and I look forward to following your progress!

 

[Timbo1]

Yea, I'd say your bike sat longer and had little maintenance but it looks like it had less surface corrosion .  The PO of mine said he had regular maintenance performed until the last few years when he began having physical issues.  Any flat surface on mine has corrosion and the chrome is lifting in many places because the salt air could get to it.

I was quite happy that the clutch SEEMS to have come back.  I wasn't wanting to have to pull the s lotlave cylinder.

Yes most the surface corrosion on mine was just surface rust with the exception of the headlight bucket, aftermarket master cylinder covers, shocks and some Kuryakyn pegs that were bubbling and peeling. The shocks weren't bubbling but was rusted through the chrome & didn't clean up as well as I would have liked so I swapped sides and put the bad side inwards until I can replace them.  I was able to get a used headlight bucket from ebay, buffed out some OEM master cylinder covers I had and I happened to have some old Kurakyn pegs that were in a bit better condition.

The only other significant chrome bubbling is on the chrome plastic alternator cover but that seems to be standard feature for these machines as they age as my other 98 had the same problem.  I'm considering replacing it but those plastic covers are pretty expensive for what they are.  I've also considered trying Chrome Vinyl wrap but I've never done that so not sure how it would work out.

[Hook#3287]

The only other significant chrome bubbling is on the chrome plastic alternator cover but that seems to be standard feature for these machines as they age as my other 98 had the same problem.  I'm considering replacing it but those plastic covers are pretty expensive for what they are.

The alt cover that came on a bike I got out of Pennsylvania was bubbly bad.

I did her into a Bobber so chrome didn't matter.

I sanded it down and rattle can painted it black and I gotta admit, it looks pretty good.

Only another Valk rider would know.

[psckam]

Your lucky you got the stock pipes as well, unmolested ones are hard to come by.

[RustyValkry]

Images look fine to me as well as your master cylinder.    

For comparison this is what I was talking about earlier about green cottage cheese in the one I went through.  The clutch wouldn't work at all and the brakes were seized.  Rear brake master cylinder was the only one not full of green goo.


Clutch Master Cylinder



Slave Cylinder

Well, Timbo I think I've got you beat on the schmutz in the reservoir. 

My brother and SIL arrived yesterday afternoon.  Today my brother helped me unload the RustyValkry from the trailer and it's good I had the help, it was a handful with partially locked brakes and flat tires.  I discovered the rear tire doesn't have a valve stem.  Guess it's a good thing I was going to replace the tires anyway cause that rear one has to come of even if just to fix the valve stem. 

Next I decided to have a look at the front master cylinder with the thought of flushing the front brake system.  Below is what I found when I took off the cover.  Obviously it's going to be more than a flush.



This is what I dug out and what it looked like after the digging.





I decided the master and both calipers need rebuilt.  The reason for the decision for the master is obvious.  When I was trying to push the bike in the driveway I was pretty sure the front brakes were partially locked so I pulled them off the rotors and was able, with difficulty to move the bike.  I suspect the rear caliper is also partially frozen as well.  Is there a vendor that stands out for parts for our Valkyries?  If I can find rebuild kits I'd do that.  I've already noted that the boot on the brake lever is shredded so I will need that as a start.

I guess another question is whether anyone knows of a good indie for Hondas in/near Daytona Beach?

[hubcapsc]

I think you should seriously consider buying cheap calipers and
master cylinders from some parted-out ebay bike and rebuild
them with Honda parts...

I've gotten real nice parts like that from ebay, and after a refresh
they were good as new...

-Mike

[Hook#3287]

Man, that's uuugggly.

Mike suggestion is valid, but I'd only swap out the masters with new/used ones and check them.  Possibly, they won't need rebuilding.  Can be had relatively cheap.  Yours are a good bet they will need complete rebuild and kits are $40.00 from Honda OEM.

If you get new/used calipers, most likely your going to want to rebuild with new parts anyways and used are going around $50.00 each.  Your calipers should clean up good.   Put the $ into new seals, cylinders, rubber parts and pads.

Of course, that's assuming you can get the cylinders out.

Looks like you got some work ahead of you, I'm jealous and am looking forward to the project.

[Timbo1]

Well, Timbo I think I've got you beat on the schmutz in the reservoir. 


Is there a vendor that stands out for parts for our Valkyries?

Yep that looks bad for sure.  I don't have a goto place for parts specifically.  I usually get them on ebay or amazon.  Every time I tried calling the stealers they would have to order and were more expensive than what it cost me to just order online myself.  I am fortunate that there's a local guy here that does a lot of work on Valks that's I've picked up a few parts from here and there and at the same time was able to pick his brain.  He has adds running on the forum banners and his name is Bob (AKA - Attic Rat.)  Look for that banner and if you cant find a part he may have it.

[RustyValkry]

I didn't mention in my previous post that I also pulled the cover and cap off the rear reservoir.  Fluid was very dark but there wasn't schmutz visible though once I siphon the fluid out I who knows what surprise I might find. 

I'm also contemplating a switch to Dot 5 if I'm going to do a complete rebuild of the brake system. 

[Hook#3287]

What's the clutch master look like?

For OEM parts I use Partzilla.com

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/1999/gl1500ct-a-valkyrie-tourer

I've used several over the years and their prices seem inline and the service has always been good.

[RustyValkry]

What's the clutch master look like?

For OEM parts I use Partzilla.com

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/1999/gl1500ct-a-valkyrie-tourer

I've used several over the years and their prices seem inline and the service has always been good.

I posted pictures of the clutch master earlier in the thread.  It wasn't nearly as bad, I assume because the PO flushed it or had it flushed more recently than the brakes.

I was looking on the Partzilla site earlier today, thanks for the reference.

[gordonv]

Welcome to the forum, and congratulations on the find. Post pictures of your build, we all like following along with you.

You got the image posting working. Also there is no need to post another reply, you can go back and edit your previous posts. I do it all the time, even if just to fix spelling mistakes or clarify something I worded wrong.

A few things I always warn new owners about, is hydro lock, rear end service/maintenance (and yoke) and the starter switch. ShopTalk has a nice post from Chris, about the rear end service, how-to properly. Hydro lock can take you out of service for a long time. Starter switch can leave you not riding.

I read this the Tech forum for 6 months before picking up my first Valkyrie. Just so I would know more about it, and it's own unique problems.

[RustyValkry]

Welcome to the forum, and congratulations on the find. Post pictures of your build, we all like following along with you.

You got the image posting working. Also there is no need to post another reply, you can go back and edit your previous posts. I do it all the time, even if just to fix spelling mistakes or clarify something I worded wrong.

A few things I always warn new owners about, is hydro lock, rear end service/maintenance (and yoke) and the starter switch. ShopTalk has a nice post from Chris, about the rear end service, how-to properly. Hydro lock can take you out of service for a long time. Starter switch can leave you not riding.

I read this the Tech forum for 6 months before picking up my first Valkyrie. Just so I would know more about it, and it's own unique problems.

I edit posts frequently, usually for typos.

I've read about hydro lock, just one more reason to pull the carbs for rebuild before I try to start it.  

Since both tires need replaced the diff is on the list of maintenance before I ride it for the first time.  LOL, it'll be a lot easier to do it on the Valk that it was when I changed out 4 gallons worth on my skoolie.

When you say "starter switch" do you mean on the handle bar?

[Led]

ICK!!!   Those master cylinders are ugly.

Do you have access to an "Ultrasonic" cleaner?   Those work GREAT for parts like that........and also carburetors. 

Just be sure NOT to use a cleaning solution that conflicts with aluminum parts.    They will be clean, but will come out a dark gray in color.........

[RustyValkry]

ICK!!!   Those master cylinders are ugly.

Do you have access to an "Ultrasonic" cleaner?   Those work GREAT for parts like that........and also carburetors. 

Just be sure NOT to use a cleaning solution that conflicts with aluminum parts.    They will be clean, but will come out a dark gray in color.........

I wish I had an ultrasonic cleaner, for this bike a sand blaster would be nice too but I'll have to settle for the slow way.

[Timbo1]

I wish I had an ultrasonic cleaner, for this bike a sand blaster would be nice too but I'll have to settle for the slow way.

I used a Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner with Krud Kutter Parts Washer and it worked great.  No oxidation or discoloration of aluminum or anything of the like.  The one I have is small and can only do 2 carbs at a time and not quite cover the tops so had to turn over after a cycle.  I think I got it for around $70 on sale.

This is the one I have but you can get larger ones elseshere.
https://www.harborfreight.com/25-liter-ultrasonic-cleaner-63256.html

[RustyValkry]

Today I removed the rear master and both front calipers.  The biggest problem I'm going to have on this project is getting steel bolts out of aluminum.  I had problems with the pad pins in both front calipers and the mounting pivot on the front master cylinder. 

Next I have to get the rear caliper off.  Do I understand correctly that you have to remove the rear axle to get the rear caliper off?  The caliper can't be detatched from the caliper bracket?

[Timbo1]

Do I understand correctly that you have to remove the rear axle to get the rear caliper off?  The caliper can't be detatched from the caliper bracket?

If you don't want to pull the axle, if I recall correctly at one point in time I was able to get the caliper off by first removing the pads by pulling the pin at the rear of the calipers.  Then there's a big bolt at the front of the caliper.  And then there's a pin that the outer caliper slides on toward the rear that needs I believe a 14mm wrench to access.  It won't come out completely as it's captive but once it's fully un-threaded it no longer holds the rear of the calipers in place and the calipers can be removed.


It's probably just as easy or easier to just loosen the axle nut and slide the axle in past the caliper bracket and pull everything out.