Saving The RustyValkry

[RustyValkry]

Thanks for all the info Jess. I'll have a look at the linked sites.  I was wondering if Harley clamps would fit thanks for that tidbit.  Too bad as I have an extra set with me but they're for a Harley.

My brother and I went out for a ride later this afternoon.  We only did about 10 or 15 miles, again riding along another stretch of the intercoastal water way in Daytona.  At a stop light my brother pointed out that my left fork seal was leaking.  When I first looked there was some fluid on the outside of the lower.  I kept checking as we rode but I didn't see anymore fluid coming out.  A bit later my brother pointed out that the right seal was leaking.  I think I'll clean up the legs and ride some more to see if they continue to leak.  I don't hold much hope but maybe I'll get lucky and they'll reseal.  The bike did sit for 3 or more years, who knows.

At another point in the ride we got stuck in traffic for 10 to 15 minutes.  When we were about to go through the intersection I noticed the temperature light was on.  I figured I'd see if the light went off after we got up to speed, it did.  The question is why did it go on.  I don't recall hearing the fan come on but I have no idea if it's audible though I'd think it would be.  The fact that the light went out seems to indicate that it wasn't a stuck thermostat or the light wouldn't have gone off.  LOL, I guess it figures that the 2 systems of the bike that I didn't tear apart are the ones that get me.

[RustyValkry]

I owned two Corbin seats; both hard as concrete, and they never broke in (your ass broke in).  I sold both.  Some people think they're great.  Not me, they look good, but you can get the same comfort with a big flat rock.  

This is how I discovered the Airhawk seat cushions.  They are much better than polymer or gel pads. Like air mattresses, you do not blow them up hard, you go maybe halfway filled, and adjust to taste (and ass). (medium fits most)
https://airhawk.net/product-category/seat-cushions/

You can still order a new front seat (later model, they changed after the first couple years to a better seat, but I am not sure the exact year they got better) and they are not too bad.  

Number 3 @  $110.56 (this is a 2001 parts fish, so it should be the new one) (or try Ebay or Pinwall for used, but don't get an early year one)

https://www.procaliber.com/oem-parts?aribrand=HOM&arian=MOTORCYCLE#/Honda_Powersports/GL1500CDAC_(01)_VALKYRIE%2c_USA%2c_VIN%23_1HFSC347-1A400001/SEAT/9f342bed-5d75-4928-ad13-734e8a118011/c6dd830c-aa1b-47e9-99bd-d8bf2d1c76b2/y

I like Ultimates (Bigboy) and Mustangs (Wide Vintage), but they cost more.  (but you may find used ones in decent shape from the same sites for more reasonable) (if used, Ultimate distinguishes between Interstate and Std/Tourer seats (though both will fit both), but Mustangs are universal fit for all Valk models.  

The cheapest Hwy pegs (esp for long legged people) are just a set of pegs with clamps mounted to the 3 and 9 O'clock of the engine guards (clamps are 1 1/8", NOT 1 1/4" Harley clamps).  You rotate the peg clamps a little to the rear because your legs come down at a Y, not a U.

The Kuryakyn Dually's are my favorites for Hwy pegs. (you do not want the large ISO pegs)


If you want more adjustment, then you get them with offsets, but if you have long legs you don't need them.



And, you might also find used Hwy pegs too, but they likely will come with the too large 1 1/4" clamps. But if you save enough on used pegs/offsets, a set of 1 1/8" Magnum Quick Clamps is only $25.

https://www.amazon.com/Kuryakyn-7941-Magnum-Quick-Clamp/dp/B00514CBKC/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=7941+Magnum+Quick+Clamp%2C+1-1%2F8%22%2C&qid=1617135643&sr=8-1

For all Kuryakyn parts, use their website to find the right part numbers, but then buy off Amazon (or someone else).

I was sitting here looking at the Airhawk cushions.  One thing I have to be careful about is how much one of those would raise me in the seat.  Due to my height it doesn't take much to get my head into the airstream over the windshield and the head buffeting that comes with it. 

[Jess from VA]

First, on the leaky fork seals, it's pretty common, and most of the time it's just accumulated crud and dirt up in there, and not a missing chunk of seal (which will leak harder, and can't be cleaned out).  Most of us (me too) have been able to clean out those seals with a simple procedure, lowering the dust seals out of the way and removing the chrome fork guards (4 little 10mm nuts on the inside; getting two with a quarter inch socket set and the other two with a 10mm box wrench), then stuffing a chunk of 35mm film up past the seal and sawing it back and forth around the fork circumference.

But this produces leaking oil, and makes the film really hard to grip (maybe use nitrile gloves).  The better solution is to buy the Seal Doctor which grips much easier and works better and faster.  Once done cleaning (and wiping), you sit on the bike and bounce the forks the best you can.  Wipe once more and push the dust seals back up, and done. This often stops the leak entirely, for good, or for months at a time before you need to do it again.  

I had one bike leaking intermittently for 2-3 years with multiple cleanings before a fork rebuild (with all wear parts replaced), and I never really lost enough total fluid to affect handling or suspension in any noticeable way.  The leaking fluid often mists all over the timing cover and engine guards, and looks like more volume than it really is.

Seal Doctor (and how-to):   https://riskracing.com/pages/seal-doctor   ($25, and worth it)

Second, on the temp light, you should absolutely hear the fan come on sitting in traffic (assuming you are not running noisy ass pipes).  And it should come on before the temp light does (mine do).  I'm not as sure what to recommend here.  Whether your coolant/water is old and crummy and needs changed (flushed out with hose), or a thermostat, or heat sensor, or fuse.  You can get an idea of coolant condition by looking at the overflow tank under the left side cover (though the tank gets crummy and you may have to pop the cap and look down inside with a light).  Remember to not break tabs off side covers by pulling them out of the tabs in front, then rotating the front of the covers out to unhook in the rear.

Flush it out good and refill with good no-silicate antifreeze and distilled water (not hose), then run it to hot in the shop and check if fan comes on properly.  If not..... ?

One thing I've always done since I rode Harleys (and continuing with Hondas); if I get stuck in traffic, I shut the bike down if just sitting there.  My Harley could be hard to start hot, but my Valks never are.

The Airhawk cushion, inflated only 1/3 to just over a half full of air should not raise you in the seat more than a half inch or less.  It's OK if your butt touches the seat at a few places as you move around, it still provides good relief from concrete seats.  The covers are super non slip, but if you fill the cushion full of air, the dang thing can roll around like an inner tube and will raise you up nearer an inch (so don't do that).  You don't want to leave it on the bike to go walking though, someone can just walk off with it.  They come with tie downs, but I never used them, just threw it in the bags if off walking around.  

When I was taking all day rides, I used to alter the amount of air a bit at stops.  That, and getting on and off the Hwy pegs provides good butt relief.  These pads allow air to get under you.    

[klb]

At another point in the ride we got stuck in traffic for 10 to 15 minutes.  When we were about to go through the intersection I noticed the temperature light was on.  I figured I'd see if the light went off after we got up to speed, it did.  The question is why did it go on.  I don't recall hearing the fan come on but I have no idea if it's audible though I'd think it would be.  The fact that the light went out seems to indicate that it wasn't a stuck thermostat or the light wouldn't have gone off.  LOL, I guess it figures that the 2 systems of the bike that I didn't tear apart are the ones that get me.

I bought a 01 and rode it home with no temp light coming on as I
didn't have to stop any. When home I wanted to make sure the fan
did work so I let it idle then the temp light came on. Put a jumper
wire on the Thermo Sensor on the Radiator to make sure the fan
did work and it did. Fuse was blown so I put a new one in and after
running for a few it came on ran 20 seconds then popped it again.
Mine had a Dirt Dobber nest in it and after a good flushing of the
dirt and dead spiders it has worked good ever since.

[RustyValkry]

Thanks Jess and KLB.  I'll pick up one of the seal cleaners.  I think there's a good chance that will resolve the issue. 

I've been reading about the cooling fan in the manual.  Tomorrow I'll check the fuse and see if I can jump the fan as a test to insure it's functional.  Mud daubers huh, given where my bike was being stored I might find an alligator nest.

[RustyValkry]

Today I dug a plastic cream cheese tub out of the recyclables and cut it out to look like one of the Seal Mates I saw on the web.  Not wanting to have to pull the wheel again I just bent the shields out a bit and used the tool on both sides.  I dug a good bit of schmutz out of both sides and bounced the front end as prescribed.  I decided to take it out for a couple mile ride.  It seemed to help the right side which leaked a bit yesterday but the left side is still leaking badly.  I'll try again tomorrow but, just in case, I ordered seal kits for both sides.  Hopefully making the commitment to buy the parts will make the left seal decide to cooperate.

I did notice that the left side dust seal was chewed up like someone had been after it with a screw driver.  I'm wondering if someone worked on it before because it was leaking but used a chain saw instead of a piece of plastic.

[Timbo1]

Replacing fork seals is pretty easy and doesn't necessarily take much time or money.  I just did mine using All Balls 56-139 Fork & Dust Seal kit.  I used the method that does not require any special tools and pulling the inner tube out the bottom once the fork cap is removed.   I did one side at a time removing right first, draining then separating inner from outer, cleaning replacing seals and reinstalling before moving to the left side.  It worked very well considering this was the first time I've ever took a dive into the forks.

Here's a link to how I did mine:
http://dchealy.com/valk/fork-seal-change.pdf

And here's another link to what's probably closer to the service manual.
http://www.valkyrienorway.com/forksprings.html

[Jess from VA]

Just so you know, sometimes I cleaned three times before I got it stopped.  Don't assume one and done.

Remember, as I said above, if a chunk of internal fork seal has come out, no amount of cleaning will stop leaks. 

My dust seals are quite weathered and beat up, and that never seemed to be part of the dirty internal fork seal problem.

[RustyValkry]

Replacing fork seals is pretty easy and doesn't necessarily take much time or money.  I just did mine using All Balls 56-139 Fork & Dust Seal kit.  I used the method that does not require any special tools and pulling the inner tube out the bottom once the fork cap is removed.   I did one side at a time removing right first, draining then separating inner from outer, cleaning replacing seals and reinstalling before moving to the left side.  It worked very well considering this was the first time I've ever took a dive into the forks.

Here's a link to how I did mine:
http://dchealy.com/valk/fork-seal-change.pdf

And here's another link to what's probably closer to the service manual.
http://www.valkyrienorway.com/forksprings.html

OK, I can see how that first method would be a time saver and, if I can't get mine to seal I'll try it.  One point, why would you have to take the fork caps off to drop the sliders?  I wouldn't think you'd need to bother with the fork caps till it was time to refill with oil.  If I'm wrong then I don't understand something about this process.

Thanks for suggesting this.  I can see how it would save a lot of time and effort and, most of all, swearing.

[RustyValkry]

Just so you know, sometimes I cleaned three times before I got it stopped.  Don't assume one and done.

Remember, as I said above, if a chunk of internal fork seal has come out, no amount of cleaning will stop leaks. 

My dust seals are quite weathered and beat up, and that never seemed to be part of the dirty internal fork seal problem.

I've got a few days before the new fork seals get there so I was intending to try again - and again - and again.  On the other hand, with as much oil as dripped out by the time I got back from my test ride this afternoon, I don't see how it could be just some dirt in the sealing surface.  I felt one nick in the slider that might have been high enough to hit the seal which I hit with some 2000 grit sand paper but if that got into the seal it might be shot.

[Timbo1]

OK, I can see how that first method would be a time saver and, if I can't get mine to seal I'll try it.  One point, why would you have to take the fork caps off to drop the sliders?  I wouldn't think you'd need to bother with the fork caps till it was time to refill with oil.  If I'm wrong then I don't understand something about this process.

Thanks for suggesting this.  I can see how it would save a lot of time and effort and, most of all, swearing.

The fork caps are screwed onto part #14 & #15 which help hold the internals together, then they screw onto the outer tube.  Fork caps are to large to slide through the tubes and you have to get the internals loose to pull the rest out the bottom.  Here's another link to give you a better understanding of how the forks are put together.  I think this guy is doing them similar to the second method I had linked which is not necessary unless you are replacing / inspecting the springs.

https://youtu.be/DJfkO0iAZlw?t=178

[RustyValkry]

OK, I can see how that first method would be a time saver and, if I can't get mine to seal I'll try it.  One point, why would you have to take the fork caps off to drop the sliders?  I wouldn't think you'd need to bother with the fork caps till it was time to refill with oil.  If I'm wrong then I don't understand something about this process.

Thanks for suggesting this.  I can see how it would save a lot of time and effort and, most of all, swearing.

Thanks for that Timbo.  I'm running out of time here in Daytona Beach.  I'm heading back to NJ mid April.  Though I have my truck and motorcycle trailer I have to take my brother's bikes back north with me when I leave.  I was thinking about getting home then jumping on a plane to come back down and ride the Valkyrie to NJ (that would be a fun ride in late April or early May).  If I'm going to attend InZane this year I have to have the bike ready to ride before I leave in a couple weeks or it'll be stuck here until next fall - no InZane, so I have to resolve the fork seal and cooling fan issues at the very least.  I was hoping to have a few hundred miles on the bike before I hit the road for that ride but I'm not sure that's going to happen.


The fork caps are screwed onto part #14 & #15 which help hold the internals together, then they screw onto the outer tube.  Fork caps are to large to slide through the tubes and you have to get the internals loose to pull the rest out the bottom.  Here's another link to give you a better understanding of how the forks are put together.  I think this guy is doing them similar to the second method I had linked which is not necessary unless you are replacing / inspecting the springs.

https://youtu.be/DJfkO0iAZlw?t=178

[RustyValkry]

I had to go into the garage a little while ago to get something and I noticed there is now a pool of fork oil on the floor beside the left tube.  I'm going out soon to give it another go with a 'redesigned' seal cleaning tool.  I found a new deposit of seal cleaning material in the recycling bin this morning, the best kind, Chinese food container material.

Of course, I'm left with a quandry.  I have no way of knowing how much fork oil has leaked out the that left leg.  I may have to pull it just to drain it to get an accurate amount of oil into it.  I'll have to think about this.

[RustyValkry]

Still no joy in Muddville with cleaning the fork seals.  I'll keep working on them since the parts to replace them aren't going to get to me till around the 15th.  I was expecting to be on the way back north by that time.

Yesterday I pulled the front wheel off again to take of those chromed fender covers to allow me better access to the forks.  I guess I just have to consider that I'm getting practice removing and replacing the front wheel.

[Timbo1]

If you have Amazon Prime they still show 2 day delivery for the Fork seal kit.  And you could cancel the other order that's 2 weeks out?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BOZFXBU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The time to replace them took me about 3hrs so it's not a very time consuming project.  You could easily have that completed by your departure date if you had parts in hand.

[RustyValkry]

If you have Amazon Prime they still show 2 day delivery for the Fork seal kit.  And you could cancel the other order that's 2 weeks out?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BOZFXBU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The time to replace them took me about 3hrs so it's not a very time consuming project.  You could easily have that completed by your departure date if you had parts in hand.

Yea, that's what I did.  We'll see how fast they get here from the second source.

[Timbo1]

Hope it works out for you.  How's the fan troubleshooting coming along?  From the looks of the wiring diagram it looks like a pretty simple circuit to diagnose, hot wire from ignition and what appears to me as a thermal switch to ground,  completing the circuit once it's hot enough to power the fan.

[RustyValkry]

Hope it works out for you.  How's the fan troubleshooting coming along?  From the looks of the wiring diagram it looks like a pretty simple circuit to diagnose, hot wire from ignition and what appears to me as a thermal switch to ground,  completing the circuit once it's hot enough to power the fan.

I pulled the fan switch connector and ground it back to the negative battery terminal and with the key on the fan started so the fan motor is good.  I measured voltage between the green and black wires on the 2P connector and got battery voltage so it appears to be the switch.  Guess I'll replace the coolant since I have to drain the system.  I'm also getting the top and bottom radiator hoses, may as well change them if I'm draining the system.  As far as I know the hoses could be original.

[RustyValkry]

I got one of those seal mates today and spent a long time working with that on the fork seals.  After I got tired of futzing with it I decided to take it for a ride to see if I had done anything at all - NO!  I'm done with it.  Tomorrow I'm going to pull the tubes out and get everything ready for the arrival of the new seals.  That's a much better way to spend the time than to keep doing something that hasn't worked. 

It was laughable.  I watched a YouTube video last night of a guy who used them on his bike.  He ran them around a couple times and they were fixed.  I've done it countless times and they leak more than they did when I started.

I also noticed the fork oil in mine looks very fresh and very red.  I'm wondering if they were done just before the PO parked it and AT fluid was put in cause it smells like AT fluid.  Maybe they were done and whoever did it used Chinese paper mache seals that have melted -  "I'm melting - MELTING!!!!".   

[Jess from VA]

I believe the fork oil called for is 10wt.  My research showed not all fork oils are the same; one ten may be a bit different than another.  Some have changed weights.  I wouldn't.

I paid a lot of money years ago for a complete rebuild (and progressive suspension fork springs, which were not expensive), and when the job was done, there was no leak, but the ride was very harsh. I complained about it to the dealer, and they said the job was done per the book, and unless I could show they did something wrong, I'd have to pay again.  I didn't, and after 3 years or so, the ride was no longer harsh.

When I paid for my other bike forks to be rebuilt, I asked that he use about 2-2.5 ozs less than called for.  He told me a number of people made the same request.  Those forks are not harsh, but not Cadillac mushy either (and still great years later).  I recommend 2 ozs under recommended for a good ride.  I think this is the better solution than changing fork oil weight. 

I don't know if any fork oil is red.  Maybe.  ATF does have a particular smell.

[Skinhead]

ATF is what I use in my forks.  It works well and is about a quarter the cost of "fork oil" which is ATF without red dye.

[RustyValkry]

I haven't decided what I'll use in the forks.  If it is ATF in them now then they're fine for me.  I'll have a better look tomorrow when I pull the forks out and spill oil all over the floor.   

[RustyValkry]

I started pulling the forks today.  It was going well until I got to the fork caps, they're frozen.  I guess I wasn't really surprised though I was disappointed.  A half inch breaker bar did nothing.  I PB Blastered them and got out my manual impact driver, it did nothing.  I decided to spray one last time and call it quits for the day.  I then went to the hardware store and got a MAP torch.  I'll try that tomorrow.  PITA!!!!

I decided to put the engine guards on before I quit for the day.  I got the right side started, all 3 bolts, with some creative finagling but the left side refused to line up.  I'm sure they were tweaked at some point, I could see some damage on the underside of the right side bar.  I finally decided stronger action was called for so I dragged my floor jack out to the Expedition, hooked the mounting tab of the guard through the chain slot of the hitch, put a board on the jack and let 'er go.  After venting my pent up aggression I decided to see what I had succeeded in doing so I tried mounting it again, went right on, easy peasy.  Sometimes the best approach is to use a bigger hammer, or in this case a 5000 pound truck and a 3 ton floor jack.

[Chrisj CMA]

I started pulling the forks today.  It was going well until I got to the fork caps, they're frozen.  I guess I wasn't really surprised though I was disappointed.  A half inch breaker bar did nothing.  I PB Blastered them and got out my manual impact driver, it did nothing.  I decided to spray one last time and call it quits for the day.  I then went to the hardware store and got a MAP torch.  I'll try that tomorrow.  PITA!!!!

I decided to put the engine guards on before I quit for the day.  I got the right side started, all 3 bolts, with some creative finagling but the left side refused to line up.  I'm sure they were tweaked at some point, I could see some damage on the underside of the right side bar.  I finally decided stronger action was called for so I dragged my floor jack out to the Expedition, hooked the mounting tab of the guard through the chain slot of the hitch, put a board on the jack and let 'er go.  After venting my pent up aggression I decided to see what I had succeeded in doing so I tried mounting it again, went right on, easy peasy.  Sometimes the best approach is to use a bigger hammer, or in this case a 5000 pound truck and a 3 ton floor jack.

It’s best to break those fork caps loose while still on the bike. Just loosen the upper pinch bolts on the triple tree. 

[Hook#3287]

Those caps can be a real b-buster sometimes.  Plus, Honda don't give them away.

I was going to mention releasing the top pinch bolts, but Jeff beat me to it.

I ended up using a chisel and hammer on one once after rounding the cap head with a socket, then large vise grips did nothing.

Hopefully the PB will work.

[RustyValkry]

I'm not taking the tubes out, I'm going to try dropping the pipes out of the tubes. 

[Timbo1]

Be a lot cleaner to pull the fork assembly rather than have any left over oil run all over the place.  And doing one side at a time you can leave the fender in place.

This is how I did it and worked out pretty well for me.  I did have a problem with one cap but once I loosened the top pinch bolt it came loose.

1. Loosen top pinch bolt, both sides (Top Pinch bolt makes the cap tight & cant be torqued properly with them tight).
2. Loosen fork cap both sides
3. Remove calipers and tie back both sides
4. Remove front wheel
5. Remove fender bolts one side
6. Loosen lower fork pinch bolts on one side (keep fender in place and safe)
7. Slide fork assembly out bottom
8. Finish removing cap and drain (I think Right side takes 17mm wrench, Left side 14mm) to remove cap from damper rod. (Pay attention to height of lock nut on damper and reinstall cap at that height)
9. Slide dust cover down
10. Remove seal circlip
11. Slide inner fork down a few times to press seal from upper fork tube.
12. Remove bushings, washer, circlip, seal and dust cover in order of the linked diagram I posted previously
13. Clean
14. Install new lightly oiled dust cover, washer & seal (I used the plastic bag method to slide seals on to prevent the sharp edge of the forks from cutting the new seals)
15. Install lightly oiled bushings
16. Slide fork lower together with upper.
17. If you have a fork seal tool great, use it to install the seal.  If not I cut the original seal about 2/3 and use it to gently tap the new seal into place with a rubber mallet.  Not the best but it worked for me.
18. Install the circlip
19. Tap dust cover into place with rubber mallet.
20. Put the specified amount of fork oil 22.7oz right fork & 25.2oz left fork for my standard. (I used Lucas 10w Synthetic fork oil) don't know if it's good or bad just what I bought and it seems fine so far.
21. Install cap onto damper rod and torque
22. Hand  tighten fork cap into upper tube
23. Loosely re-install fork into bike, snug up lower pinch bolts til forks stays in place. 
24. Snug up fender bolts

25. Repeat other side fork starting at line 5

Once both forks were complete and back on the bike, (height set as they were originally) I installed front wheel / axle and snugged up axle bolt.  I then torqued lower fork pinch bolts, fork caps & upper pinch bolts to spec. in that order.  Once the forks were torqued correctly I lowered the bike off jack, bounced it a few times then torqued front axle.  Then I torqued axle pinch bolts.  And finally re-installed calipers.  Hopefully I didn't miss anything.

[RustyValkry]

I got the caps loose and ready to come off but I had to do a lot of running around today so dropping the pipes out will have to wait till tomorrow.  I did pick up a couple quarts of ATF so at least I have that on hand.

[RustyValkry]

I got the pipes out, now I'm waiting for the seals and dust covers.  I decided to see what I could do to the brackets with a little sand paper.  I figured I couldn't make them any uglier.

When I sanded the horrendous wheels I knew they start corroding again but I didn't want to spend the time prepping for paint.  With theses brackets I figured 'why not?'.

I On the left I started with 150 and went to 2000.  On the right I started with 100 and stopped at 600.  I used Rust-oleum Ultra flat black. I put on 2ish coats. 
.
While I have no idea how well the paint will hold up, I'm pleased with the results.  Going even to 600 was overkill but I can't see a difference in the finish between the 2 . . . Except for more dust getting on the right side due to the wind picking up since it was getting pretty breezy when I sprayed it.

[RustyValkry]

Today the fork seals and dust covers got here.  They were supposed to get here last Friday and I'm not to pleased the vendor failed to get them to me when he said he would.

At any rate as soon as I got a good look at the seals I knew they would fix the leaking.  The old seals were worn out by comparison.  I had my reservations about how smoothly the reassembly would go but I didn't need to be.  Everything went well.  The only glitch was I had trouble getting the left seal to pop up into place.  I followed Timbo's suggestion and cut one of the old seals and used it to drive the new ones into place. 

The fact that I survived the test ride is a good sign though I suppose I could have a delayed disaster.  I need to put some miles on the bike in the next few days to make sure it's in good enough shape to ride north in a couple weeks.  I'll try to leave Daytona Beach by Monday to take my brother's bikes back to him then I want to fly back down and ride the RustyValkry back to New Jersey.  I'd still like to make InZane though how well the the bike does going from Daytona Beach to New Jersey would tell that tale. 

I wired a switch into the cooling fan circuit and it worked well on my test ride this evening so I'm NOT going to pull the cooling system down  to replace the bad fan switch in the radiator until I get the bike home to Jersey.  I already have the new radiator hoses and fan switch so I'll have them with me on the ride north (assuming it happens) just in case.

[Avanti]

With the work you have done along with the knowledge gained and the Valkyrie being relentless, I am sure your ride will be a rewarding adventure.

[RustyValkry]

I've been riding the Valk and finishing up odds and ends.  I'm going to leave to drive home either Sunday or Monday morning.  I'll be riding the Valk every day till I leave to see how it behaves.  As I mentioned if I feel confident in it I'll fly back down in a week or 2 and ride it home.  

Below is a picture of it sitting in a parking lot.  I'm pleased in how it came out though there is so much left to do.

Anyone who recalls seeing the before pictures might appreciate the shot of the front wheel.  I was very pleased with the way the lower bracket came out for the little time I put into it.  Huge change from the before.

[Ron in Buffalo]

Thanks for the update. This has been a good read. Want to how the ride went if you take to NJ.

[RustyValkry]

Thanks for the update. This has been a good read. Want to how the ride went if you take to NJ.

Thanks Ron for following along.  I've enjoyed doing this thread, it has helped keep my mind engaged, if it entertained some folks along the line that's good too.

I've continued to work with the leather bags and seat, applying neatsfoot oil every few days, it's helping.  If I get it home I have some Doc Bailey's that I'll use on it that has black dye to help even out the appearance. 

Last night I put a set of rubber covered pegs on the engine guards.  It's a jury rig because I only had clamps from my harleys on hand.  I was able to get them solid by using some plastic strapping used to hang water pipes and scraps of plastic tubing I had stripped off the Valk.  They aren't going anywhere and I really need them for the trip north.

[Jess from VA]

Doc Bailey's is great, but simple Kiwi black shoe polish, put on with wet then wrung out surgical cotton, then buffed off with wet clean cotton will do wonders too.  After the shine, use mink oil (thin with fingers only), but it will dull the shine some.   

[RustyValkry]

Doc Bailey's is great, but simple Kiwi black shoe polish, put on with wet then wrung out surgical cotton, then buffed off with wet clean cotton will do wonders too.  After the shine, use mink oil (thin with fingers only), but it will dull the shine some.   

The saddle bags that came with this bike are nice, high quality bags.  They have thick leather, 2 layers in places.  I was very pleased when I saw them. 

I'm not going for a shine, just want to rejuvenate the leather and get some black dye on the many scuff marks.  Yes, mink oil is my go to for water protection.  I've used silicone water proofing spray on boots before but I'm not sold on it being good for leather.

[Skinhead]

I've been riding the Valk and finishing up odds and ends.  I'm going to leave to drive home either Sunday or Monday morning.  I'll be riding the Valk every day till I leave to see how it behaves.  As I mentioned if I feel confident in it I'll fly back down in a week or 2 and ride it home.  

Below is a picture of it sitting in a parking lot.  I'm pleased in how it came out though there is so much left to do.

Anyone who recalls seeing the before pictures might appreciate the shot of the front wheel.  I was very pleased with the way the lower bracket came out for the little time I put into it.  Huge change from the before.

During the winter (non riding months), take those small, rusted Chrome pieces off and soak them in oxalic acid, it will remove the rust, but if the chrome is gone, you may need to paint them afterwards.  You have done a good job so far, I had a similar project I just completed, but I don't think I would do it again.

[RustyValkry]

I've been riding the Valk and finishing up odds and ends.  I'm going to leave to drive home either Sunday or Monday morning.  I'll be riding the Valk every day till I leave to see how it behaves.  As I mentioned if I feel confident in it I'll fly back down in a week or 2 and ride it home.  

Below is a picture of it sitting in a parking lot.  I'm pleased in how it came out though there is so much left to do.

Anyone who recalls seeing the before pictures might appreciate the shot of the front wheel.  I was very pleased with the way the lower bracket came out for the little time I put into it.  Huge change from the before.

During the winter (non riding months), take those small, rusted Chrome pieces off and soak them in oxalic acid, it will remove the rust, but if the chrome is gone, you may need to paint them afterwards.  You have done a good job so far, I had a similar project I just completed, but I don't think I would do it again.

I'm going to have to do something with most of the chrome on the bike.  The handlebar clamp, triple tree, fork tubes, shock covers, rocker covers, etc. all have chrome lifting off.  Problem is, 90% of the chrome on a piece might be gone but that other 10% will hang on for dear life making refinishing a pain.

[RustyValkry]

I just finished packing.  I'll leave in the morning - early - I hope.  If I ride it north I'll try to remember to take some pictures, maybe a video and do a thread.  Hopefully I'll be able to report a nice, easy, trouble free trip.

I took a final short ride this afternoon and the bike performed well.  When I got back I closed the petcock and ran the gas out of the carbs.  I expect to be back down in a couple weeks to ride it north but I put a cover over it anyway given that this is Daytona and everything ends up with salt dust on it, I'm about a block from the beach.

As a final touch, the other day I was helping my friend (who owns the house) clean out his garage.  As we were tossing stuff he hands me this bag (picture below) and it's mine if I want it.  At first I thought why would I want it, then I realized it might be a good fit for my saddlebags and I was right.  I can fill it with tools or whatever and slip it into one of the bags.  Now I wish I had another so I can have a matched set of 'designer' saddlebag liners.  I mean who hasn't heard of the great designer known as "Ryboi"?

Hope you all found this thread entertaining as I bumbled my way through resurrecting the RustyValkryie.  Who knows what I'll get into next.

[The emperor has no clothes]

Hope you all found this thread entertaining as I bumbled my way through resurrecting the RustyValkryie. 

It’s been a great thread ! I had little hope for that bike to begin with. You’ve done some good work.