Saving The RustyValkry

[RustyValkry]

Unless I've forgotten something or I discover some new issue I have everything I need to finish the RustyValkry.  If I have enough energy I could have it ready to test ride this weekend.  I'm hoping, since it's so close do ready, I'll get that burst of excitement that will carry me through. 

Today, if all goes well, I'll have the new tires mounted at Cycle Gear which is a big hurdle. 

Yesterday I finished reassembling the final drive.  The worst part was getting the drive shaft splines into the U-joint but I finally got the right angle in the dangle and some spin got it in - that was a biggie.  Because I have both wheels off, the bike isn't balanced well on my Sears jack so I had to lower it to it's lowest lockable height and block up under the engine. It was much more difficult wrestling the diff., drive shaft assembly bent over like that.  Thankfully I won't have to do that again for quite a while.

I'm boiling my calipers in the ultrasonic cleaner to get the dried schmutz out of the seal grooves, a time consuming process that required scraping to loosen the worst of it.

Really the hard stuff is done at this point.  I'm uncertain about how difficult it might be to mesh the rear wheel hub onto the diff. but I'm hoping it isn't any worse than mounting an early FLT rear wheel with an enclosed chain.

If I finish the assembly in the dead of night I'll wait till the next day to do the first ride.  I'll get my brother to video it and I'll upload it so those of you who have suffered through this thread get to watch that first ride.  That way you can witness any carnage that might occur, pieces falling off, firey explosions, mayhem, dismemberment, you know cool stuff.

[Chrisj CMA]

Make sure you do the correct tightening sequence for the rear end.

Four nuts on final drive loose right side shock removed. Install wheel slide axle and get it all in place. Spacer and caliper plate. Install the caliper plate holding pin.

Now the critical:

Torque axle nut
Immediately torque the four nuts on final drive
Install right side shock

[pancho]

Getting close brother,, I look forward to seeing you heading down the road on your ride.

[RustyValkry]

Make sure you do the correct tightening sequence for the rear end.

Four nuts on final drive loose right side shock removed. Install wheel slide axle and get it all in place. Spacer and caliper plate. Install the caliper plate holding pin.

Now the critical:

Torque axle nut
Immediately torque the four nuts on final drive
Install right side shock

Interesting what gets left out of the manual.  I'll follow your suggestion on the torqueing sequence.

Got the new tires mounted and balanced and new valve stems installed.  Wheels and tires are ready.

[Chrisj CMA]

Make sure you do the correct tightening sequence for the rear end.

Four nuts on final drive loose right side shock removed. Install wheel slide axle and get it all in place. Spacer and caliper plate. Install the caliper plate holding pin.

Now the critical:

Torque axle nut
Immediately torque the four nuts on final drive
Install right side shock

Interesting what gets left out of the manual.  I'll follow your suggestion on the torqueing sequence.

Got the new tires mounted and balanced and new valve stems installed.  Wheels and tires are ready.

That’s pretty much what the book says. They aren’t clear whether the right shock is on or off during final drive alignment but it only makes sense to not impede the alignment process with the right side shock attached. 

[RustyValkry]

After I got tired of wasting my time trying to get the final drive reinstalled I decided to cut my losses and move to the front end.  Before I quit for the day I had the front wheel installed both handle bar controls reassembled the calipers installed and the brakes bled.  All I have to do at this point is get weight on the front tire and do the right pinch bolts.

My next big problem is going to be the throttle.  I got the carb ends on but can't get the throttle grip return cable end on.  I read a couple other threads about it on the forum but I've already got as much slack in the cables as there is to get.  Tomorrow I'll pull the top bracket off and try to move the handle bars to the left enough to slip the throttle grip, with the cable ends in place, over the end of the handle bar.  I also had trouble getting the cables off when I stripped the bike but I attributed that to the general state of the bike, now it appears that Honda didn't provide enough adjustment in the cable.

I've had the gas tank soaking for a couple weeks.  I started with 2 gallons of Evapo-Rust  and it seems to have done a good job but 2 gallons wasn't enough to get to some areas of the tank even though I was repositioning it so I got 2 more gallons and that seems to be enough.  The only place I haven't yet been able to soak in the Evapo-Rust in the filler neck. 

[hubcapsc]

Tomorrow I'll pull the top bracket off and try to move the handle bars to the left enough to slip the throttle grip, with the cable ends in place, over the end of the handle bar. 

That should make it easy, I don't even try to mess with the throttle unless I
do it that way.

-Mike

[RustyValkry]

I got the final drive in - finally.

 Mounted the wheel but had trouble getting the drive flange far enough in.  Took the wheel back off and test for the flange to see what it took to get it into the O-ring.  Put the wheel back on, put my knee against the diff. and pulled the wheel to the right till it slipped on.  It was lined up because I had it on the axle.

Now torqueing.

More later.

[RustyValkry]

I already mentioned I got the final drive installed.  I also got the rear brake put back together and bled.  Only thing left in the rear is the fender extension and the shocks.  I attached the right shock  but not the left.  I may hold off on the shocks for a couple days so I can soak them in Evapo-Rust.  That stuff seemed to do a good job on the tank so, before I put it back into the jugs, I may dump it into a 5 gallon bucket and throw both shocks into it and see what happens.

I loosened the handlebar clamp and moved the bars enough to get the throttle grip off and get both cables attached.  I then put the right controls back together, the bars clamped again and the throttle cables adjusted  - well enough for now.  I still have to decide what to do with the frozen adjuster and I want to read more about how the cables are designed.  They're a bit different from what I'm used to.  I DID verify free operation in all positions.

I have front brakes but I'll bleed them again, they're a bit mushy but good enough for now.

Tomorrow I'll drain the Evapo-Rust out of the tank and wash that out well.  I wish I could see inside but I've got no way to do that.  What little bit I CAN see the Evapo-Rust completely removed all the rust.  I'll see what comes out during the rinse cycle.  I figure I'll use detergent then a good rinse.  I'll hit it with compressed air for a while.  If it's a sunny day I'll put it in the sun for a couple hours and let it bake.

It won't take long to put the pipes back on.  Another day or 2 and I should be ready to fire and test ride it.  I've got an oil filter and oil so I can change that after the test ride.
 

[JimC]

I may hold off on the shocks for a couple days so I can soak them in Evapo-Rust. 

Be careful, The evapo-rust will probably damage the inner workings of the shocks if you do more than a quick application to the outside metal.

Jim

[RustyValkry]

I may hold off on the shocks for a couple days so I can soak them in Evapo-Rust. 

Be careful, The evapo-rust will probably damage the inner workings of the shocks if you do more than a quick application to the outside metal.

Jim

I put them in last night and pulled them out this afternoon.  Before and after.

[RustyValkry]

Today I got everything major done.  Some minor stuff left but I was ready for a startup.  Hit the button once but there was no joy in mudville so I figured I needed to pour the rest of the 2 gallons of gas I bought into the tank.  That done I opened the petcock again and walked around to hit the button but could hear a dripping sound - not good.  Gas was dripping off the front of the engine so I closed the petcock. 

Turns out the gas was pouring out the vent lines.  That puzzled me for a while.  It hadn't done that when I ran it just using the fuel in the rubber line sticking up.  I concluded it's being caused because I got the fuel inlet line too high, higher than the vent lines.  Tomorrow the tank comes back off and I'll have to try to get the inlet lines to lay down lower.

Does anyone have anything to add.  Does my explanation sound reasonable or am I on the wrong track.  Keep in mind I've had the bike running already.  The only difference now is I mounted the tank and connected the inlet line to the petcock.  In doing so it looks like I kicked the T connector on the inlet lines higher then they were during the test run.

As always thanks for any input.

[RustyValkry]

It occurs to me that I should post about my experience with the gas tank.  If you've been keeping up with this thread you saw that there was A LOT of rust in my tank.  I think it was surface rust but not being able to see into the tank very well it was hard to tell.

I finally decided to start by washing out the tank with detergent and rinse it well.  During the rinse I was just seeing very fine, dust like particles so decided to try some kind of rust removing solution.  I settled on Evapo-rust and ended up dumping 4 gallons into the tank.  I started with 2 gallons but I couldn't get to certain areas with just 2 gallons so I ended up adding 2 more gallons. 

After soaking for over a week with 2 gallons and 3 or 4 days with 4 gallons the places I could see were rust free, down to metal.  I'm impressed with how well the Evapo-rust did.  After I got the Evapo-rust out of the tank I did a clear water rinse.  There were virtually no particulates coming out of the tank during the rinse.  The hardest part was getting the last bit of liquid out of the tank.  It appears that even the petcock bung has some kind of rim on the inside making it difficult to get the last of the liquid out.  After I got as much of the water out as possible I dumped most of a quart of alcohol in and moved that around for quite a while before dumping it out as well.  Again I couldn't get the last bit out so I used compressed air for a while and eventually couldn't hear anything sloshing around in the tank.

I won't know if I did a good enough job cleaning out the tank until I've run the bike some hundreds of miles.  I had thoughts of temporarily using an inline filter but I've seen so much about how such filters actually cause problems rather than prevent them.  If I could get my hands on a good old fashion sediment bowl I might try that assuming I could figure out where and how to mount it on my bike.  At the present time I'm relying on the stainless steel mesh screen on the used Pingel I found to keep any big chunks from heading down line.  Time will tell.

[pancho]

Hey Rusty, even though you have already had it running without the leak, the first thought is that one or more needle valves are not closing. You know, debris getting into the bowls?

just what comes mind


A fuel filter can be added, and has been done before, just need to be careful of how the fuel line is run. It cannot have a rise in it at any point as this will cause problems.

[RustyValkry]

Hey Rusty, even though you have already had it running without the leak, the first thought is that one or more needle valves are not closing. You know, debris getting into the bowls?

just what comes mind


A fuel filter can be added, and has been done before, just need to be careful of how the fuel line is run. It cannot have a rise in it at any point as this will cause problems.

I'll find out tomorrow as the tank will come back off, in fact I pulled mounting bolts this evening, all I have to do is disconnect the fuel and vent lines. 

Since I was sitting on the right side of the bike I pulled the 1, 3 and 5 plugs to see if the cylinders were full, they were dry.  I'm hoping it's just a fuel line routing problem.  I'll be an unhappy camper if I have to pull the carbs again.

Two steps forward 7 backwards.

[The emperor has no clothes]

I tend to agree with Pancho. Also, if you have enough fuel line that it would rise up after installing the tank you have way too long of a line. It doesn’t take much grit to hang up a float valve.

[hubcapsc]

It appears that even the petcock bung has some kind of rim on the inside making it difficult to get the last of the liquid out.

There's vent channels inside there of some sort. Someone needs to cut
a tank in two so we can see in there. If you have gas in your tank and
tip the tank up onto its nose without holding your finger over the vent
in the back, next thing you know gas will be coming out of the vent
like a fountain. I did that when I first got my bike (and read about the
fountain in one of the shoptalk articles) on an evening where it got
real cold that night... the gas fountain was frozen... what temperature
does gas freeze at?

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/petcock.htm

-Mike

[Timbo1]

I know many have stated filters are bad but if your in doubt I'd say put one in. It's better than letting the crud get into the carbs.  One of my Valks petcock & screen corroded and partially disintegrated and while I couldn't get a new one quickly & I was anxious to get to riding so I put in a Edelbrock 8139 filter.  I'm glad I did as once I received the new petcock & screen I opened the Edelbrock and there was quite a bit of debri that had been caught inside it.  I put the new petcock in and left the inline filter in place after cleaning it and have had no ill effects to this point.  I cut out exactly the amount of fuel line to fit it in without changing the attitude of the original line and the 3/8 ends are very tight inserting into the oem fuel line so there is no restriction to the fuel flow.


This is the one I used, it is a bit large to fit into the area but it will fit. I got mine from Oreilly auto parts but I'm sure most any automotive would carry it.
https://www.edelbrock.com/3-aluminum-street-fuel-filter-in-red-finish-8139.html

[RustyValkry]

I know many have stated filters are bad but if your in doubt I'd say put one in. It's better than letting the crud get into the carbs.  One of my Valks petcock & screen corroded and partially disintegrated and while I couldn't get a new one quickly & I was anxious to get to riding so I put in a Edelbrock 8139 filter.  I'm glad I did as once I received the new petcock & screen I opened the Edelbrock and there was quite a bit of debri that had been caught inside it.  I put the new petcock in and left the inline filter in place after cleaning it and have had no ill effects to this point.  I cut out exactly the amount of fuel line to fit it in without changing the attitude of the original line and the 3/8 ends are very tight inserting into the oem fuel line so there is no restriction to the fuel flow.


This is the one I used, it is a bit large to fit into the area but it will fit. I got mine from Oreilly auto parts but I'm sure most any automotive would carry it.
https://www.edelbrock.com/3-aluminum-street-fuel-filter-in-red-finish-8139.html

As I was just brushing my teeth (I do some of my best thinking when I'm brushing my teeth) I decided tomorrow I'll try to find one (maybe more) of those clear inline filters locally and when I pull the tank off, I'll put one on the petcock and run the tank of gas through the filter and into the can I used to fill it.  That'll show me what's left in there as well as get it out.  If I go back to using just the 3/8" line full of fuel to try to run the bike and it still leaks then I'll know I got all kinds of crap into the carbs and I'll likely have to pull the carbs again.  I think I'll check out what O'Reilly has, I see a couple that are interesting. 

[RustyValkry]

Today I went to O'Reilly's and picked up one of those clear plastic fuel filters and also an Edelbrock filter with an aluminum body and reusable ceramic element.  I pulled the tank off again and attached a length of hose to the petcock with the plastic filter on the end and drained the gas, about 2 gallons, back into the gas can.  I can't tell if much, or anything, was caught in the element. 

I then pulled all 6 plugs from the bike and turned it over.  There was a mist that came out of #3 and #5 cylinders but that was it.  I put the plugs back in.  Then I took some of the gas from the can and filled the fuel line on the bike.  I saw a drop or 2 come out the vent lines but that was it so I fired it up.  I ran it for a while then shut it down.  I did that several times while keeping the line filled with gas.  No gas leaked out the vent lines. 

I decided to shorten the line from the T to the left bank of cylinders by about 1"  I then put the tank back on and cut the line to the petcock by a couple inches.  I then dumped enough gas into the tank to get it started.  It fired up and no gas leaked out the vent.  At that point I decided to move ahead with the assembly.  I fired it up a number of times over the next several hours. 

I did determine that one or more cylinders in the left bank aren't firing.  The obvious first place to act is the plugs.  I didn't replace them yet so that's the first step.

I bled the clutch again and ran through the gears with the bike on the jack.  I won't be able to tell if I'm getting full clutch action until I have the bike on the ground.   So what stopped me from riding it today?  No foot pegs.  I'm waiting for a cheap set off Ebay. 

Anyway I started putting panels back on the bike.  I didn't reinstall the engine guard because I might replace the timing belts next.  I'm not sure how much I should trust the belts on it considering I have to assume they're 23 years old and sat for 3 to 5 years even though they have on 22K miles.  If anyone thinks that would be a waste of time and money feel free to speak up.

When I fired it up for the second first start I grabbed my phone and got a video which is below.

I'm making notes about things I note that I need to address.  The front stud on the left exhaust manifold is broken and that might be causing an issue though I can't tell anything until I get new plugs. 

I ordered a Digisync, when it comes I'll see how bad my bench sync was.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0larySeosQ

[Chrisj CMA]

The engine guards do not interfere with removing the timing belt cover. You don’t have to hold off on installing the guards

[RustyValkry]

The engine guards do not interfere with removing the timing belt cover. You don’t have to hold off on installing the guards

Thanks, I'll reinstall them.

[Bret SD]

Great job man! I can't believe all you've done to save that beautiful machine.

[RustyValkry]

First ride this afternoon.  It went well though there were a couple issues.  The speedo cable wasn't tight enough and to remind myself to tighten the right side axle pinch bolts I left the Allen wrench hanging on the bolt.  It worked, when the wrench fell out and hit the pavement, I remembered.

I'll add the video after while.

[RustyValkry]

Here's the link to the first ride I posted on YouTube.  I figure some of you might be interested.  Overall I'm pleased with how it turned out.  Obviously I have to sort out the fuel delivery but I think the engine is solid.  I was having trouble with my shifts, one time I kept thinking I was hitting neutral when in reality I had managed to shift to 4th instead of 2nd.  I see no indication that there's a clutch issue, there's no dragging and the engagement is unremarkable which means it's right where it should be.

After the ride shown in the video I changed the oil and filter which is another load off my mind.  I still haven't seen any seepage from the vent lines so I'm guardedly optimistic that I've resolved that issue.  I would like to have gotten the inline filter installed but to do so I'm going to have to pull the tank and disconnect the fuel line from the T which promises to be a challenge but I think I'll do that the next time I have the tank off.

I put the pillion and the saddlebags on the bike.  I figure it's the best place for them while I'm working on the leather. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zWzgu2OaMD4

[pancho]

Long time a coming....  betcha that felt good!

[The emperor has no clothes]

  You’ve come a long ways. 

[RustyValkry]

I just got a Digisync yesterday.  Over the next couple weeks I'll hook that up and see what's what.  I don't have my compression tester with me so I can't be sure of my results but at this point I'm going to assume, with 22K miles, I'm good on compression.  (I know, famous last words)

I'm going to get insurance coverage on it today so I can start riding it. 

I noticed in my test ride yesterday that the speedo was a little sketchy.  I tightened the screw a bit more which helped.  I think I might see if I can use a little mehanic's wire to firm it up a bit.

Oh, and I think I might wash it, LOL.  I'm sure it'll be the first time in 5 or more years it's been washed.

[Jess from VA]

You may know this, but all Japanese speedos are intentionally 5% over actual speed.

To protect round eye from himself, and to protect from draconian penalties on foreign products (and liability lawyers).   

[RustyValkry]

LOL, that might be a universal principal as my Harley speedos are optimistic as well.  At least my shovels are, the '04 Road King is pretty much spot on.

[Timbo1]

Fantastic, your hard work is showing results after all the time & energy you've invested.  I did notice you have some deceleration popping occurring and if I recall correctly you de-smogged?  If you did you might double check all your intake boots, o-rings and nipples to make sure they're sealed.  The other thing that comes to mind is did you put the air cut valves to vacuum to test when you rebuilt the carbs?  I believe i read you haven't sync'd them yet so maybe that will help idk.

[The emperor has no clothes]

I just got a Digisync yesterday.  Over the next couple weeks I'll hook that up and see what's what.  I don't have my compression tester with me so I can't be sure of my results but at this point I'm going to assume, with 22K miles, I'm good on compression.  (I know, famous last words)

I'm going to get insurance coverage on it today so I can start riding it. 

I noticed in my test ride yesterday that the speedo was a little sketchy.  I tightened the screw a bit more which helped.  I think I might see if I can use a little mehanic's wire to firm it up a bit.

Oh, and I think I might wash it, LOL.  I'm sure it'll be the first time in 5 or more years it's been washed.

I didn’t realize they were still being sold. The website is really modern now. I assume BonS sold to someone.

[RustyValkry]

I was working on the turn signal switch.  It's not functioning well, works sometimes, other times not.  I disassembled and cleaned it.  It worked better but not consistently.  I figured I'd check for a new or used one.  Then I learned you don't buy the switch, you buy the entire housing.  I decided I don't care all that much about having turn signals.  I'll continue working with it and see what happens.

That leaves the front stop light switch.  I found a bunch of them for a few bucks each.  If I find mine is bad I can just replace it without having to buy the entire right housing.

[Bret SD]

You may know this, but all Japanese speedos are intentionally 5% over actual speed.

To protect round eye from himself, and to protect from draconian penalties on foreign products (and liability lawyers).   

Jess, those flashing 'your speed' road signs are always the same as my speedo reading. Dunno about freeway speeds though, here I'm hitting 85 mph routinely, depending on traffic flow.
Seems like people have slowed down since fuel prices increased.. maybe

[Jess from VA]

You may know this, but all Japanese speedos are intentionally 5% over actual speed.

To protect round eye from himself, and to protect from draconian penalties on foreign products (and liability lawyers).  

Jess, those flashing 'your speed' road signs are always the same as my speedo reading. Dunno about freeway speeds though, here I'm hitting 85 mph routinely, depending on traffic flow.
Seems like people have slowed down since fuel prices increased.. maybe

Look, 35mph (-5%) = 33.25

        45mph (-5%) = 42.75

        65mph (-5%) = 61.75

        70mph (-5%) = 66.5  

        85mph (-5%) = 80.75   (even at 85, it's still not a full 5mph off)

And those signs aren't police certified radar.  

But our bikes are made 5% wrong on purpose.  

80 (or 20 over) in VA can be automatic reckless driving at the cop's discretion, so it can be helpful.  

[RonW]

I was working on the turn signal switch.  It's not functioning well, works sometimes, other times not.  I disassembled and cleaned it.  It worked better but not consistently. 

did you take apart the thingies in the photo below? Just pluck them out of their slot. They're under the thumb lever. The thumb lever plate.

[RustyValkry]

I was working on the turn signal switch.  It's not functioning well, works sometimes, other times not.  I disassembled and cleaned it.  It worked better but not consistently. 

did you take apart the thingies in the photo below? Just pluck them out of their slot. They're under the thumb lever. The thumb lever plate.

I took out and disassembled the thumb lever, lifted the switch out of its place and sprayed it with contact cleaner then reassembled it.  If it doesn't improve with use I'll take it apart again and have a look at the contacts you showed.  It looked like someone had been in there before because there was a very heavy, viscous grease which was causing more trouble than good.

Thanks for your post and pictures, those'll help.

[The emperor has no clothes]

You need to regrease it after cleaning it. The old Honda grease gets pretty hard and waxy. But you need some new grease.

[RustyValkry]

I just got back from my first real ride.  It was short, about 20 miles, on a road beside the intercoastal waterway so the fastest I got was about 45.  On the way I went through the neighborhood to the gas station.  When I got there it was idling at about 2K RPM so I cut it back to a thousand and thereafter it held there.  Initially it was slow to drop back to idle but after riding for a while it got better.  The pronounced pop at 2500 went away but now it pops a bit when it first drops to idle.  I'm not too concerned about it and I expect more miles will make a difference.  

It feels like a bike with 22K miles on it.  It's very tight.  I think I need to take the tire pressure down from the 38 the shop put in them when they were mounted to something closer to 32 or 34.  The clutch is very smooth on engagement.  I think I'l try to figure out where the shock adjustment is.  If there's a softer setting I need to go to it.

I believe I mentioned somewhere earlier in this thread the the PO had a set of TBR 6 into 6 pipes on it.  I assume to go along with those, he had installed new, adjustable needles and springs.  He kept the jets stock 100 and 35.  When I got the bike the stock pipes were back on it.  I had thought to put the TBR pipes back on it but since the #2 cylinder exhaust header bolt was broken and the TBR pipes have individual flanges I felt it made more sense to go with the stock pipes since they use a one piece flange.  All this information to ask for opinions about whether to go back to the stock needles and springs or try to tune it with the adjustable needles and springs.  Eventually, when I replace the broken exhaust stud, I'll put the TBRs on just to see what they're like.

The Corbin seat is . . . what's the word . . . uhmmmm . . . HARD!.  My butt was getting sore on my 20 mile excursion.  If I decide to ride this the 900+ miles back to NJ I'm sure the seat will kill me.  On the other hand the rider backrest is nice.  Maybe I'll find some kind of gel seat cushion.  I also realize from my 20 mile jaunt that I absolutely, positively MUST get highway pegs on it.  At 6'6" my legs are too scrunched up to NOT be able to change foot position.  No way I'd start out on a trip back to Jersey without those 2 changes.

To sum up . . . I'VE GOT A RUNNER!!!!!

Oh yea, RonW, I'm going to have to get into the turn signal switch again.  I'll pay more attention to detail this time. 

[Jess from VA]

I owned two Corbin seats; both hard as concrete, and they never broke in (your ass broke in).  I sold both.  Some people think they're great.  Not me, they look good, but you can get the same comfort with a big flat rock.  

This is how I discovered the Airhawk seat cushions.  They are much better than polymer or gel pads. Like air mattresses, you do not blow them up hard, you go maybe halfway filled, and adjust to taste (and ass). (medium fits most)
https://airhawk.net/product-category/seat-cushions/

You can still order a new front seat (later model, they changed after the first couple years to a better seat, but I am not sure the exact year they got better) and they are not too bad.  

Number 3 @  $110.56 (this is a 2001 parts fish, so it should be the new one) (or try Ebay or Pinwall for used, but don't get an early year one)

https://www.procaliber.com/oem-parts?aribrand=HOM&arian=MOTORCYCLE#/Honda_Powersports/GL1500CDAC_(01)_VALKYRIE%2c_USA%2c_VIN%23_1HFSC347-1A400001/SEAT/9f342bed-5d75-4928-ad13-734e8a118011/c6dd830c-aa1b-47e9-99bd-d8bf2d1c76b2/y

I like Ultimates (Bigboy) and Mustangs (Wide Vintage), but they cost more.  (but you may find used ones in decent shape from the same sites for more reasonable) (if used, Ultimate distinguishes between Interstate and Std/Tourer seats (though both will fit both), but Mustangs are universal fit for all Valk models.  

The cheapest Hwy pegs (esp for long legged people) are just a set of pegs with clamps mounted to the 3 and 9 O'clock of the engine guards (clamps are 1 1/8", NOT 1 1/4" Harley clamps).  You rotate the peg clamps a little to the rear because your legs come down at a Y, not a U.

The Kuryakyn Dually's are my favorites for Hwy pegs. (you do not want the large ISO pegs)


If you want more adjustment, then you get them with offsets, but if you have long legs you don't need them.



And, you might also find used Hwy pegs too, but they likely will come with the too large 1 1/4" clamps. But if you save enough on used pegs/offsets, a set of 1 1/8" Magnum Quick Clamps is only $25.

https://www.amazon.com/Kuryakyn-7941-Magnum-Quick-Clamp/dp/B00514CBKC/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=7941+Magnum+Quick+Clamp%2C+1-1%2F8%22%2C&qid=1617135643&sr=8-1

For all Kuryakyn parts, use their website to find the right part numbers, but then buy off Amazon (or someone else).