Front Brake Pads - OEM or other?

[vanagon40]

I need to replace my front brake pads.  I know that I have read that EBC pads do not work well with the Honda rotors.  But, is there an acceptable choice other than the Honda OEMs for $80?

Kevlar?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-FRONT-Brake-Pads-GL-1500-GL1500-Valkyrie-97-03_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2ea05a44d0QQitemZ200258766032QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Ceramic Carbon?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-ST1100-Valkyrie-Helix-VFR-Brake-Pad-Set-S3-FA142_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5ad737cec8QQitemZ390157815496QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Anyone ever heard of Pyramid Parts?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda-GL-1500-Valkyrie-Tourer-F-R-Brake-Pads-97-99_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem335ac8b351QQitemZ220566434641QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I'm willing to part with the $80 to put good brakes on my bike that will work well, just not sure if there was something just as good (or even possibly better) for less.

[And I wish I had checked this over the winter rather than waiting until the weather turned nice.]

[Red Diamond]

I install OEM pads, although I personally know a mechanic who installs the EBC pads if you show up at his shop needing new brakes. I'm not one to stray far from the OEMS unless I have a problem with them, haven't had that yet, the 80+ bucks are well worth it.

[Valkpilot]

See this thread: http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,13578.0.html

If you've got OEM rotors, I recommend OEM pads.  Likewise, EBC rotors, EBC pads.

I don't think organic (kevlar) pads are appropriate for our bikes, but some people swear by them.  They're cheap and easy on rotors, but don't have the same stopping bite as sintered pads.

[98valk]

FYI

from my various posts.
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,8482.0.html
first off the valkyrie does not use metallic pads, it uses sintered bronze pads, big difference when it comes to wear of the rotors esp. stainless steel rotors. With Iron rotors u would be correct but not for the valkyrie. Sintered pads also often exceed the braking of organic pads in the wet and out perform any organic pad for maximum initial braking esp. the new HH pads. The only organics that can meet the braking of sintered pads are race organics, however they need lots of heat to do it. Not something or time to do on the street when somebody cuts into your lane. Organics have a low initial bite.
to read more see below.
http://www.sportbikesolutions.com/sintered_vs_organic.htm

good explanation of why EBC cause problems, it has to do with the torque curve of the pads
http://www.sportbikes.net/forums/general-sportbikes/384441-brake-pads.html
Different brake pads have different torque curves... the coefficient of friction changes as you both heat the pads, and as you increase lever pressure. That being the case, some pads literally 'run hot' under light loads... having a high coefficient of friction from the get-go and a flat torque curve... meaning the friction co-efficient changes as you exert increasing amounts of pressure. EBC pads are an excellent example of such a pad.

Vesrah makes most OEM pads. The stock valkyrie pads are HH pads as are the Vesrah replacements.
vesrah shows them the same size backing plate, just thicknesses are different. Ferodo shows the same also. 8.2 mm is stock thk front,  9.6 mm is the max that will fit from what I have been told, in fact this thk is all that ferodo imports into USA. rear is 10.3 mm, don't know if they will squeeze in or not. I just ordered the vesrah 9.6mm for my bike from denniskirk, haven't instl them yet. they are HH pads and highly rated.

http://catalog.vesrah.co.jp/index_street_f.html     click on brakes, then search

http://www.ferodoracing.com/catalogue/search.php?search=motorcycle_vehicle&cat=brake_pads

[Ricky-D]

I just want to state the obvious here.

Regardless of what kind of brake pads anyone chooses for their own bike you need to be reassured that:

You can lock up either wheel, front or back with any good condition brake pad.

When the talk progresses to the microsecond advantage of this pad or that pad, performance characteristics under different conditions, and any and all the manufacturer produced statistics, the one thing to know: Good condition pads will stop you  every time.

If you on the other hand are looking for power assist brakes, well then sell the bike and buy a car!

Take some fitness training too, if you're in that much of need. You probably should not be riding a motorcycle anyway!

***

[Tx Bohemian]

WOW!!

Now I'm really confused!

Do the Valks, or at least my '99 standard, come with SS or iron rotors from the factory??

[Valkpilot]

WOW!!

Now I'm really confused!

Do the Valks, or at least my '99 standard, come with SS or iron rotors from the factory??

Stock rotors are stainless, stock pads are sintered.

[Valkpilot]

first off the valkyrie does not use metallic pads

When I said 'metallic', I meant 'sintered'.  I've corrected my post.

You and I are in compete argreement about organic pads.

[Valkpilot]

When the talk progresses to the microsecond advantage of this pad or that pad, performance characteristics under different conditions, and any and all the manufacturer produced statistics, the one thing to know: Good condition pads will stop you  every time.

Ricky-D, you're often right on many subjects, but I think it is important to be clear on this issue.

The fact is that organic pads need to heat up before they can stop you in the same time frame (and therefore distance) as sintered pads.  Extra squeeze on the lever isn't the answer.

We're not talking microseconds, we're talking tenths of a second -- enough to make a difference in a sudden stop situation.  Cutting out a mere tenth of a second reaction time is the reason you ride in traffic with the brake and clutch covered.

I'm not willing to save $40 to give up that extra time.

[fudgie]

I use pads by Braking. Most dealers can get them thru Parts Unlimited. They are also sintered and half the cost of oem. Eyeing them together, they are thicker.

[vanagon40]

Thanks for all the links, information, and suggestions.     Next time I'll try to do a little more research myself, but it was late on Wednesday and I was on dial-up.

[Ken 11861]

I would strongly recommend OEM Honda pads I put them on and they wore just great. HOWEVER I learned the hard way after I wore out my rotors: I bought EBC rotors, they are great, still in excellent shape BUT do require EBC pads for best rotor wear.

[valkyriemc]

When the talk progresses to the microsecond advantage of this pad or that pad, performance characteristics under different conditions, and any and all the manufacturer produced statistics, the one thing to know: Good condition pads will stop you  every time.

Ricky-D, you're often right on many subjects, but I think it is important to be clear on this issue.

The fact is that organic pads need to heat up before they can stop you in the same time frame (and therefore distance) as sintered pads.  Extra squeeze on the lever isn't the answer.

We're not talking microseconds, we're talking tenths of a second -- enough to make a difference in a sudden stop situation.  Cutting out a mere tenth of a second reaction time is the reason you ride in traffic with the brake and clutch covered.


I'm not willing to save $40 to give up that extra time.

+1

[vanagon40]

Changed the brakes last night.  I'm sort of with Ricky-D on this one.  I went with kevlar pads and the new pads grip immediately and firmly.  We'll see if they last or if they are hard on the rotors.  $45 for two complete sets.

I was impressed with how evenly the original pads wore.  I was surprised they were worn out at only 20,000 miles.



My replacement pads.