Valkyrie Riders Cruiser Club
August 10, 2025, 03:32:36 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
Ultimate Seats Link VRCC Store
Homepage : Photostash : JustPics : Shoptalk : Old Tech Archive : Classifieds : Contact Staff
News: If you're new to this message board, read THIS!
 
MarkT Exhaust
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 5   Go Down
Send this topic Print
Author Topic: New generation MagnaCharger supercharger issues.  (Read 29112 times)
dreamaker
Member
*****
Posts: 2815


Harrison Township, Michigan


« on: April 27, 2010, 09:06:52 AM »

Anyone with the new generation MagnaCharger supercharger have any issues with the setup. Did you have clearance issues for the air filter provided by Bill. If not what model Valk do you have. I have a 1999 standard and filter is 3/4" to long.

Dan
Logged
dreamaker
Member
*****
Posts: 2815


Harrison Township, Michigan


« Reply #1 on: April 27, 2010, 12:19:06 PM »

 I got my info so I should be all set at this point.

Thank You all

Dan
Logged
fstsix
Guest
« Reply #2 on: April 27, 2010, 02:26:11 PM »

Dan i sent you a PM.
Logged
rdunbar123
Member
*****
Posts: 89

Pasadena, tx


« Reply #3 on: May 01, 2010, 05:03:28 PM »

I am reinstalling my magnacharger after sending it back to get a leak checked out. I Put it back to stock to ride for several weeks. Ihave got to the point that dreamaker did and he has it nailed, about 3/4 inch to long and it will interfere with the petcock. Dreamaker what did you do to solve the problem? I have the new kit also. The first install was done by the dealer-my mistake and the air filter was crushed and leaking. this was probably the cause of my surging. fortunalty i didn't ride it for long because of the fluid leak which turned out to be a gasket. any help would be appreciated. BTW when putting in the four bolts to hold the blower to the manifold, I wish I would have had hands like the guy on the burger king ad.
Logged
dreamaker
Member
*****
Posts: 2815


Harrison Township, Michigan


« Reply #4 on: May 01, 2010, 07:16:44 PM »

I don't know if you have a Lowes or a AutoZone in your state. But I bought these wrenches with open end on one side and a flexible ratcheting box end on the other side. The front ones were a pain for me but you got to be patient the four bolts is a slow process.

Dan
Logged
rdunbar123
Member
*****
Posts: 89

Pasadena, tx


« Reply #5 on: May 08, 2010, 05:37:59 AM »

Well,
I got everything back together, got it tuned reasonably well with the gas tank off put the tank back on and I thought i would have a problem with the petcock, but it was the same problem dreamaker had with the bulge in the tank.  fortunately I was alerted to the problem and didnt force it.I like his fix but I will have to move some wiring and mess around with glue. I have a 2001 interstate. there is no way the filter bill supplies fits. this is simple geometry, the carb can only go on one way and the filter can only go one way. Does everyone with the new generation have this problem? If so Bill need to come up with a fix . It does explain an lot the dealer just forced it on and crushed the filter. I will approach them about it and if they lie they have lost a customer who has bought 5 bikes in the last 7 yrs. help if you can. I am going to proceed with the fix that dreamaker sent me.
Logged
fstsix
Guest
« Reply #6 on: May 08, 2010, 12:19:31 PM »

Got that ratchet boxed wrench.....Still painful those 4 bolts under the Blower.....OK uuussee Guys ? We need some PHOTO"s....like to see the new kit with the Gas tank OFF, if you could be so kind  Thanks  Roll Eyes
Logged
rdunbar123
Member
*****
Posts: 89

Pasadena, tx


« Reply #7 on: May 08, 2010, 01:44:17 PM »

I am electronically challenged, but I will try to take some pictures. I was hoping someone had installed one and was going to tell me the easy  fix.
Logged
dreamaker
Member
*****
Posts: 2815


Harrison Township, Michigan


« Reply #8 on: May 08, 2010, 01:47:22 PM »

I have a few pics. don't know if they make sense, but I will take more when I pull my tank. The new generation is not bad the only issue I had was the air filter fitting. I seems Bill was using an Interstate to create a filter but doesn't want to work on my 1999 Standard do to a hump/sag under the tank near the petcock. Its very hard to see the interference, I had to use a mirror to see it. So I used some modeling clay to get the shape and made a cardboard template. I have a diagram pics. to show the issue. I came up with an idea using 2" rubber coupler for PVC pipe to make a rubber air intake manifold for the air filter. It kind of looks like a pain but I had it built in about an hour taking my time. I installed the manifold had to be careful putting the tank on not to just jam it in but it seemed to clear everything and the tank went down fine. Started it up and it worked fine. There is a pic. of the coupler I got from Lowe's home center.

Dan



« Last Edit: May 08, 2010, 03:35:31 PM by dreamaker » Logged
rdunbar123
Member
*****
Posts: 89

Pasadena, tx


« Reply #9 on: May 08, 2010, 04:10:09 PM »

Dreamaker,
I have the same hump and the same problem on my interstate. thanks for the pics. I spent the better part of a whole day trying to come up with a better solution but am heading to lowes tomorrow. I guess I'll have to buy a bandsaw. I sent you and email with some questions on the procedure but just in case you check this first, what kind of glue did you use. I also guess you used the pvc pipe to hold the cupling steady. thanks. btw i did email bill and ask if this is a common problem or did we miss something?
Logged
dreamaker
Member
*****
Posts: 2815


Harrison Township, Michigan


« Reply #10 on: May 08, 2010, 06:17:22 PM »

I thought the same thing for three days and couldn't figure out anything simpler and cheap. When you go to Lowes there is an other type of coupler with metal wrapped around it, YOU DON"T WANT THAT its to thin. The coupler I have shown will fit snug on the PVC so you don't need to glue it . The glue I use on rubber believe it or not is superglue/krazy glue.  Get a little pieces of scrap rubber and put a dot of superglue on it touch them and hold the pieces for a few minutes and let it sit.  After awhile try and pull them apart and you will notice it don't come apart easy. Before you go out and buy a band saw see if a neighbor has one. The blade I use was about 18 teeth per inch. Also I don't recall what they call it on a band saw but you need the angle/ protractor/fence with the slide on it. This keeps the part you are cutting straight. When you are ready and let me know and I will send you steps of the procedure with pictures. Basically you will be cutting the coupler in pie slices, you will not glue the whole thing up at once.
Logged
rdunbar123
Member
*****
Posts: 89

Pasadena, tx


« Reply #11 on: May 08, 2010, 08:29:51 PM »

I will try it tomorrow. I really don't mind if the saw is less that 80 or so. Like most of us I usually am looking for a new tool opportunity. Send the pictures if you would, you have my earthlink address. It does make you wonder how many of the "new system" have been sold. No mention of this problem that I can find. Also the air filter looks smaller than the pictures of the old one. I do have a spare k&N from a big air kit from my raider. I wonder......
Logged
dreamaker
Member
*****
Posts: 2815


Harrison Township, Michigan


« Reply #12 on: May 08, 2010, 10:16:04 PM »

Get at least two or three  couplers.

Dann
Logged
fstsix
Guest
« Reply #13 on: May 09, 2010, 07:27:05 AM »

Would or could a large new Radiator hose have the bend and flex that might work? just trying to help, My air filter is the size of a 1 Quart coffee can, i know your clearance is bad but that filter he supplies sure does look small next to your breather there.
Logged
Jeff K
Member
*****
Posts: 3071


« Reply #14 on: May 09, 2010, 08:18:03 AM »

Would or could a large new Radiator hose have the bend and flex that might work? just trying to help, My air filter is the size of a 1 Quart coffee can, i know your clearance is bad but that filter he supplies sure does look small next to your breather there.

I was thinking the same thing, tiny air cleaner.

I found a nice rubber elbow at the junkyard. Lots of cars have them on their throttle bodies. I don't remember what car I got mine from though.
Logged
XXTi
Member
*****
Posts: 62


2003 Std Valkyrie, 2008 Ducati 1098

Bixby, OK


« Reply #15 on: May 09, 2010, 09:00:52 AM »

What are your guys using to retard the timing?
Logged

Jim
dreamaker
Member
*****
Posts: 2815


Harrison Township, Michigan


« Reply #16 on: May 09, 2010, 09:02:54 AM »

Would or could a large new Radiator hose have the bend and flex that might work? just trying to help, My air filter is the size of a 1 Quart coffee can, i know your clearance is bad but that filter he supplies sure does look small next to your breather there.


I considered looking for an intake but some are large sizes 4 or 6" dia. but I was thinking the quickest and cheapest.( or reasonable)
Correct me if my mind set is wrong, just using common logic.  Now if I take the area of 45mm dia. and the filter area is equal or greater, then the filter should be good, correct. Let me know !!

My issue is there is limited space from the carb., petcock, the bottom of the tank and the top of the engine block. My template pic. shows approx. area available for the air filter.



Now my first Goose Neck the 90 was to wide and interfered with the tank and petcock as shown in pic..



My third Goose Neck was much tighter and did not interfere and did not restricted the air flow. By the way if you are wondering what I used to glue the rubber it was super glue. I use to make o-rings and that is what they use. If you glue two pieces of rubber together and done properly, when you pull them apart it could pull chunks out of the rubber.

Dan

Logged
dreamaker
Member
*****
Posts: 2815


Harrison Township, Michigan


« Reply #17 on: May 09, 2010, 09:05:04 AM »

What are your guys using to retard the timing?

Some of us are using Hobbs pressure switch in the manifold.

Dan
Logged
Jeff K
Member
*****
Posts: 3071


« Reply #18 on: May 09, 2010, 09:46:27 AM »


I considered looking for an intake but some are large sizes 4 or 6" dia. but I was thinking the quickest and cheapest.( or reasonable)
Correct me if my mind set is wrong, just using common logic.  Now if I take the area of 45mm dia. and the filter area is equal or greater, then the filter should be good, correct. Let me know !!



Not quite. Your carb is working as a venturi so it has the advantage. Your filter is a restriction, so the CFM that your carb can pull "free air" vs pulling through a wad of filter is much lower.
ANd since we are talking about superchargers, the supercharger is sucking huge amounts of CFM and your filter media has to be able to pass that CFM.

Suck air through a hose, them stuff cotton in the hose and try to suck air, it's still the same size hose, but you can't suck near the same amount of air.
« Last Edit: May 09, 2010, 09:49:34 AM by Jeff K » Logged
fstsix
Guest
« Reply #19 on: May 09, 2010, 09:57:23 AM »

Here is a Turbo set up, and if you look at the size of the filter to the Turbo it is large, scroll waaaay down on this site, has a little writeup on horsepower and filter requirement. what if you could get one more 90% and move the crankcase breather over with a longer hose and put a larger filter horizontal in that area on top where your crank breather is, you may have some tuning  issues with restriction with that small filter.  http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/bmwturbos.htm
Logged
fstsix
Guest
« Reply #20 on: May 09, 2010, 10:13:43 AM »

What are your guys using to retard the timing?

Some of us are using Hobbs pressure switch in the manifold.

Dan
With Dyna 3000 'discontinued' with Nitros & Supercharger retard mode
Logged
rdunbar123
Member
*****
Posts: 89

Pasadena, tx


« Reply #21 on: May 09, 2010, 02:07:56 PM »

Well good news and bad news, good news is finished the air filter fits and works fine. started up and it idles without a surge. bad news was I noticed a leak in the radiator from the left lower side. It was not leaking cold, just when I started. it wasnt running down from anything. I looked like it was coming from where the tubes join the reservior on the left side. actually i would rather replace the radiator than take the blower off to fix a thermostat leak.
Logged
dreamaker
Member
*****
Posts: 2815


Harrison Township, Michigan


« Reply #22 on: May 10, 2010, 02:54:26 PM »

Sorry to hear about the hole in the rad. Do you have a pic. of your filter setup. I know it gets frustrating I got everything put back together then my bike wouldn't start. After 2 1/2 days I got it started, now I have jury duty and can't mess around with it.
Good luck with the Rad.

Dan
Logged
rdunbar123
Member
*****
Posts: 89

Pasadena, tx


« Reply #23 on: May 11, 2010, 05:00:13 AM »

Another question,
how did your throttle cables fit. I made the stock ones work but the ends that attached to the carb were a make do. I will probably need to get new cables or modify these. any suggestions?
Logged
Ferris Leets
Member
*****
Posts: 484

Catskill Mountains, N.Y.


« Reply #24 on: May 11, 2010, 05:31:00 AM »

How do these effect your fuel mileage? 
Logged
dreamaker
Member
*****
Posts: 2815


Harrison Township, Michigan


« Reply #25 on: May 11, 2010, 07:34:03 AM »

Another question,
how did your throttle cables fit. I made the stock ones work but the ends that attached to the carb were a make do. I will probably need to get new cables or modify these. any suggestions?

I played around and I did two things, first I made an extension for my pull throttle cable.  That way I could use the original cables. Make sure that when you hook up the cables that the throttle returns when you turn the forks to the far left and right. The cables, I pulled it out from the triple trees and the run both cables over the frame and under the tank by where the tank mounts in front. I am at jury duty now but when I get home I will send some pics.

Dan
« Last Edit: May 11, 2010, 07:45:17 AM by dreamaker » Logged
dreamaker
Member
*****
Posts: 2815


Harrison Township, Michigan


« Reply #26 on: May 11, 2010, 10:29:38 AM »

Well got out early, the judge told me to take a hike. So here are the pics. of the extension, the paint made it look like crap so I stripped it and cleared it. But you get the idea.

Dan



Logged
dreamaker
Member
*****
Posts: 2815


Harrison Township, Michigan


« Reply #27 on: May 13, 2010, 04:27:38 AM »

How do these effect your fuel mileage? 

Suppose to increase in to the low to mid 30s mpg. Some state they are there.

Dan
Logged
Ferris Leets
Member
*****
Posts: 484

Catskill Mountains, N.Y.


« Reply #28 on: May 13, 2010, 06:18:14 AM »

How do these effect your fuel mileage? 

Suppose to increase in to the low to mid 30s mpg. Some state they are there.

Dan

INCREASE TO low to mid 30's?  My IS gets upper 30's to 40 now.  Unless I am sport biking it which cuts it to about 32.
Logged
dreamaker
Member
*****
Posts: 2815


Harrison Township, Michigan


« Reply #29 on: May 13, 2010, 06:57:09 AM »

Don't quote me, but I think the point is they my have been getting less the 30mpg, but I might be wrong.  But of course if I was going down the mountain I would get 45mpg.   LOL.

Dan
Logged
Jeff K
Member
*****
Posts: 3071


« Reply #30 on: May 13, 2010, 12:26:38 PM »

How do these effect your fuel mileage? 

Suppose to increase in to the low to mid 30s mpg. Some state they are there.

Dan

INCREASE TO low to mid 30's?  My IS gets upper 30's to 40 now.  Unless I am sport biking it which cuts it to about 32.

your supercharged I/S gets 30-40 mpg? You must drive down hill a lot.
The old kits were a pretty solid 25mpg. I don't know what the new kits get. I was getting about 35 with my EFI till I swapped to the 8:1 pistons... I have not been able to get it back to that since.
Logged
fstsix
Guest
« Reply #31 on: May 13, 2010, 02:07:57 PM »

7 years ago with the old style kit (Kehin Carb) like JK said about 25 MPG, While that carb in my opinion was impossible to tune the idle circuit, it was removed, and replaced with a Mechanical Mikuni Flatslide 45 mm, and the results were significant 32+ MPG with passenger, Now i always chuckle when gas mileage comes up on the Valkyrie board......6 Carbs hanging off the side of the motor and we buy it worried about gas mileage  2funny sorry could not help myself  Cheesy  if i could get 50 more HP i would be happy with 20 MPG and 200 HP
Logged
Jeff K
Member
*****
Posts: 3071


« Reply #32 on: May 13, 2010, 04:48:17 PM »

if i could get 50 more HP i would be happy with 20 MPG and 200 HP

I hit 178 hp but I was down to 17 mpg. That sucked.  Angry
Fun but a big pain in the ass to take anywhere.
Logged
fstsix
Guest
« Reply #33 on: May 13, 2010, 06:17:31 PM »

if i could get 50 more HP i would be happy with 20 MPG and 200 HP

I hit 178 hp but I was down to 17 mpg. That sucked.  Angry
Fun but a big pain in the ass to take anywhere.
Jeff, do you have the Viking ported heads ? and are you still using the stock cam, reading some of your posts, what combination were you using when you hit 178.....i guess my question is was that number before you put the forged pistons in? inquiring minds need to know. Smiley
Logged
CamTom12
Member
*****
Posts: 133

VA


« Reply #34 on: May 13, 2010, 07:51:16 PM »

Subscribing  Grin
Logged

1998 Valkyrie Standard
rdunbar123
Member
*****
Posts: 89

Pasadena, tx


« Reply #35 on: May 14, 2010, 01:16:44 AM »

I finally got my supercharger on, runs much better at idle without a crushed air filter, thanks for all the help from this site. If I hadn't read dreamakers post about the air filter I would have been going crazy. Agian it is driving me nuts, are me and Dan the only ones with a " new" kit and small air filter? With all the advice I got no one ever mentioned  a problem with air filter installation.  Why did Bill change the configuration? It looks like the old style would have more room for the filter and that the carb would be easier to access. You can not adjust the mikuni with the tank on and the engine hanger in place.
Logged
dreamaker
Member
*****
Posts: 2815


Harrison Township, Michigan


« Reply #36 on: May 14, 2010, 07:39:15 AM »

Well Ron, I have to confess that I updated my air filter. Previous in this threat it was discussed about maximum air flow. Well JeffK and Fstsix convinced me to go to a full filter. Bill sent me, I would assume it was the filter used on the original or Gen.1 system.  What I did is make another 90* section, then cut the lip off the new filter and glue the new filter to the new section. Basically I went from a "J" style tube to a "S" style tube with a twist. With the old section on the carb. I aligned the old section with the new turning it to the left with the filter tight to the engine hanger. Have to have room to put the key in the seat release. I then put two marks on the old and the new sections and detached from the carb. I aligned the two marks and glued the two sections together. I reassembled and it worked fine maybe even a little better, not sure. Have to take it for a run. K&N makes a outer cover for the filter that makes it easier to clean and helps for allot of dust.

Dan



Old Filter Setup


New Filter Setup
« Last Edit: May 14, 2010, 08:06:22 AM by dreamaker » Logged
Jeff K
Member
*****
Posts: 3071


« Reply #37 on: May 14, 2010, 07:53:33 AM »

if i could get 50 more HP i would be happy with 20 MPG and 200 HP

I hit 178 hp but I was down to 17 mpg. That sucked.  Angry
Fun but a big pain in the ass to take anywhere.
Jeff, do you have the Viking ported heads ? and are you still using the stock cam, reading some of your posts, what combination were you using when you hit 178.....i guess my question is was that number before you put the forged pistons in? inquiring minds need to know. Smiley

I have two sets of Viking Ported heads, one with stock valves, and one set made for larger valves that I have not tried yet.
The 178 was EFI, flat top forged pistons, the day before I tore it down to put in the dished 8:1 pistons. I have not had my dyno working since then, I tore it down to make a brake setup for it and then moved three times,  Cheesy

My Butt Dyno tells me I'm not back to where I was, but I'm working on getting some time to finish tuning for max HP.
I still run stock cams and I'm running 12 psi boost and the EFI of course

Hind sight being what it is... I would have left the flat top pistons in. It was scary fast then, and got better mileage.
I'm going to build another motor with the flat tops and the heads with the bigger valves. But at the moment I'm short one supercharger, I loaned out my Viking supercharger, and never got it back.   Cry
So I have a nice new Viking supercharger manifold but no supercharger for it.
Logged
rdunbar123
Member
*****
Posts: 89

Pasadena, tx


« Reply #38 on: May 14, 2010, 01:04:23 PM »

Well Ron, I have to confess that I updated my air filter. Previous in this threat it was discussed about maximum air flow. Well JeffK and Fstsix convinced me to go to a full filter. Bill sent me, I would assume it was the filter used on the original or Gen.1 system.  What I did is make another 90* section, then cut the lip off the new filter and glue the new filter to the new section. Basically I went from a "J" style tube to a "S" style tube with a twist. With the old section on the carb. I aligned the old section with the new turning it to the left with the filter tight to the engine hanger. Have to have room to put the key in the seat release. I then put two marks on the old and the new sections and detached from the carb. I aligned the two marks and glued the two sections together. I reassembled and it worked fine maybe even a little better, not sure. Have to take it for a run. K&N makes a outer cover for the filter that makes it easier to clean and helps for allot of dust.

I think I will be happy and ride for a while. I do have a K&N filter left over from my Raider BAK. Right now I need to neaten up some wiring, and improve my Idle. It searches about 400 rpm until it gets hot. I've heard worse. what is your Idle like. BTW I put my radiator back on and no leak, I guess my cap wasn't tight or my clamps were loose.

Dan



Old Filter Setup


New Filter Setup
Logged
dreamaker
Member
*****
Posts: 2815


Harrison Township, Michigan


« Reply #39 on: May 14, 2010, 01:34:05 PM »

Glad to hear about the radiator, you don't have to buy one. My idle changes like yours but maybe 150-200 sometimes higher. When it warms up it kind of smooths out. The thing is it is not consistent and I don't know what is normal for this system. The thing that bothers me a little is between the idle and the power is kind of spongy/mushy on the throttle. When I back off the grip and hit it again it is mushy.
Just got to figure out what is normal.

Dan
Logged
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 5   Go Up
Send this topic Print
Jump to: