What exactly does this do?

[ragincajun]

I'll preface this by saying I am inept at mechanical stuff.  But being that you guys preach that most anyone can do this....I'm going to maybe take the plunge and not pay someone to do this.  

OK, with that out of the way, I'm getting ready to hopefully order the hardware I need to mount a few items I've bought for the Phat Gurl.  Now, I've been told to get a relay (like this one http://www.amazon.com/Absolute-RLS125-12-VCD-Automotive-Relay/dp/B0002KR9GG/ref=pd_sim_auto_2) and run that off the auxillary jack in the right side panel of the bike.  OK, I've got that.  Now, a few questions...

1. Do I need to still wire in another fuse (I read a lot of posts that say to ensure you fuse everything) between the aux jack and the relay, or between the relay and the actual devise?

2. Someone else told me to get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Centech-AP-1-Auxiliary-Fuse-Panel/dp/B003H20X9G; but I'm not certain what the purpose of that is actually for and if I get this, do I still need to get the individual relay (above) in order to do the install?
3. Anything else I'm missing or not thinking (overthinking) about?

For clarification, I am mounting a Shark audio system (amp and two bullet speakers).  I know I need to get some 1" clamps for the speakers but this question is mostly focusing on the electrical side of things.  Last thing I want is to cause a meltdown in the wiring of my beauty.

Updates:
- 2003 Standard
- Installing Shark audio 250w amp w/two bullet speakers
- Also installing Cobra licence plate frame w/LED display bar.  This should wire directly into the rear brake light with no added fusing needed since that line is already fused.

[BF]

You're on the right track. 

The centech is a nice little fuse panel, but IMHO, the PC-8 is a far superior fuse panel. 

You can buy it here (he's in Asia, but he's good people and can answer any questions you might have about installing it).......

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html

It has it's own relay that triggers anything you have wired through the PC-8 fuse panel.  Everything you add now or in the future, you'll want to wire it though (into) the PC-8. 

Since it's wiring harnes is fused and comes with a relay, everything is protected, including your bike. 

I've added a ton of stuff to my bike and I wired everything through my PC-8. 

Here's a link to a thread (there's even a pic or two of that Centech mounted and installed in another member's bike)......

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,42226.0.html

In that thread, I have a post with three other linked threads were we've talked about installing the PC-8 and I posted plenty of pics in those posts/threads.  Here......

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,38349.0.html

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,39819.0.html

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,39256.0.html

[Brian]

If your aux plug is not being used I would think this all you need as it is already fused for 5amp unless someone already tampered with it. The other wire in that boot is your ground wire so you should be good to go. Now if you are looking to add a bunch of other stuff I would recommend the fuse/relay panel.

You did not state what year and model Valk you are doing this on. BF did an awesome job here for you.

[9Ball]

If your aux plug is not being used I would think this all you need as it is already fused for 5amp unless someone already tampered with it. The other wire in that boot is your ground wire so you should be good to go. Now if you are looking to add a bunch of other stuff I would recommend the fuse/relay panel.

You did not state what year and model Valk you are doing this on. BF did an awesome job here for you.

NOT recommended.  You can take the relay trip from the aux circuit so that it is only powered when the ignition is on, but you can't run power for an amp like the OP wants, fused circuit or not.

You didn't say which model shark stereo you have, but looking at their spec sheet shows the 250W amp fused at 5A and the speakers fused at 8A.  This might be capable of direct connection to the aux, but as others stated you're better off with a relay in almost all cases.  Another benefit is you might be able to better isolate noise to the amp with connections to the battery through an added relay rather than through the factory wiring harness.  Sometimes using the bike's harness wiring can introduce noise, such as whine from an alternator, etc.

[hubcapsc]

This picture from rattlebars really de-mystified relays for me:



There's an "accessory" wire behind the right side cover. You should use it
to trigger relays, not accessories. The accessory should be powered right
off the battery, or through one of those fuse panels if you think
you might have numerous accessories.

If you can figure out how to search it, search for "relay centech" in the old tech
archives and you can find my thread about when I installed mine, I asked
lots of questions and got lots of helpful suggestions. 50K later, everything
still works good  

-Mike

[Gryphon Rider]

IF the accessory you are powering requires 4 Amps or less (48 Watts or less), you will be fine using the accessory leads and its built in fuse. If it requires more than that, a separate fuse and relay are required. The accessory leads can be used to switch the coil (control) side of the relay.

[olddog1946]

Using a relay to furnish power to add ons serves one purpose:  SAFETY- It will isolate the add on from your bikes electrical system. The accessory plug is already fused, and the relay will be just fine there. If you are using more than one add one, use a fuse panel. That will allow you to have one 12V input directly from the battery to the fuses to your add on, requiring only the one relay to power as many add ons as you need.

The fuse panel will protect the add ons
the relay will be protected by the fuse in the acc. circuit .

[CajunRider]

PM me the parts and pieces you are going to be using. 

I can draw up a wire-by-wire connection for powering all that and explain each part's use and reason. 

Work has been busy... so it may take me a day or two.    

[ragincajun]

PM sent Cajunrider but still determining what parts to actually use.

I've updated OP with bike and other info not included but here's the skinny:
- 2003 Standard, so no fairing or anything.  Everything will be handlebar mounted or mounted elsewhere on the bike.
- Currently ONLY have the shark audio BUT I am thinking ahead here too... Will likely at some point add on a 12v adapter for accessory charging (phone, iPod, etc), GPS mount w/GPS (so power to that). 

So not sure if a fuse panel is the thing to get or just use individual relays for everything.

Hope that clarifies my OP somewhat.

[valky1500]

Using a relay to furnish power to add ons serves one purpose:  SAFETY- It will isolate the add on from your bikes electrical system. The accessory plug is already fused, and the relay will be just fine there. If you are using more than one add one, use a fuse panel. That will allow you to have one 12V input directly from the battery to the fuses to your add on, requiring only the one relay to power as many add ons as you need.

The fuse panel will protect the add ons
the relay will be protected by the fuse in the acc. circuit .

It is important to note here that a relay alone is not to be used with the circuits of the bike. Unless the power to the device is connected directly to the source (battery) and having its own wires, (both POS and NEG) for the best of connections, you don't want to use a relay.

This is why a fuse panel, such as the PC-8, is superior and by design. It's not only for the connecting of more devices but for the best of connections possible and at the same time it saves all of the other circuits from calamity. Using a relay in this way will make it perform and with the least of maintenance for years.

What more could you ask for?       

[ragincajun]

So if I'm reading these correctly, and based on the fact that I am planning to eventually add multiple accessories, then it appears to use a fuse panel and NOT a plain, basic relay box.  Would that be the correct understanding of all this?

[hubcapsc]

So if I'm reading these correctly, and based on the fact that I am planning to eventually add multiple accessories, then it appears to use a fuse panel and NOT a plain, basic relay box.  Would that be the correct understanding of all this?

If you had eight accessories all hooked to your battery terminals, it would be a mess, to say
the least.

If you hook up a fuse box that has eight connections to your battery, you've only got one extra
set of wires (the fuse box wires) hooked to your battery terminals, and there's eight places
to hook accessories to your fuse box. And each one is protected by its own fuse.

Here's my fuse box, right before I installed it (where you put your fuse box is a decision to make as well)
it has its own relay which enables it to be powered on only when the key is on. The whole fuse
box is also protected with an inline fuse...



-Mike "I made up the number "eight"  "

[BF]

Using a relay to furnish power to add ons serves one purpose:  SAFETY- It will isolate the add on from your bikes electrical system. The accessory plug is already fused, and the relay will be just fine there. If you are using more than one add one, use a fuse panel. That will allow you to have one 12V input directly from the battery to the fuses to your add on, requiring only the one relay to power as many add ons as you need.

The fuse panel will protect the add ons
the relay will be protected by the fuse in the acc. circuit .

It is important to note here that a relay alone is not to be used with the circuits of the bike. Unless the power to the device is connected directly to the source (battery) and having its own wires, (both POS and NEG) for the best of connections, you don't want to use a relay.

This is why a fuse panel, such as the PC-8, is superior and by design. It's not only for the connecting of more devices but for the best of connections possible and at the same time it saves all of the other circuits from calamity. Using a relay in this way will make it perform and with the least of maintenance for years.

What more could you ask for?        

Listen to what he's telling you.  Very smart advice.  

So if I'm reading these correctly, and based on the fact that I am planning to eventually add multiple accessories, then it appears to use a fuse panel and NOT a plain, basic relay box.  Would that be the correct understanding of all this?

Yes.  

One relay wired correctly is only going to trigger only one device.  

The need to use a relay to power the stuff you add to your bike is so all of that current from all of that added stuff doesn't go directly though your start switch and fry it.  

You might get by for awhile, but sooner or later, you're gonna fry your start switch if you don't protect it.  In alot of members opinons (including mine), the PC-8 is not only the best way to add stuff and protect your bike, but it's really easy to install it as well.  

Plus, what Mike said.  If you start adding a bunch of stuff to your bike, you're gonna end up with a bunch of wires and connections to your battery posts.....basically, you'll have a mess.  Not very tiddy.....plus not good for your bike.  

With a fuse panel such as the PC-8, the only extra wires running to your battery are the positive and negative wires from the PC-8.  Very clean and tiddy.  

I'm no wiring guru, but if I can do it, you can too.  

The PC-8 (as well as the Centech) will power your current needs as well as your future needs with it's own relay.  

There's alot of reading in my post, but go back and read my first post to you.  There's several threads I put in there that you should read (all of them....to the end).

Then come back here and ask your questions.  

One other point........

If you don't already have one, go out and buy yourself the Cylmer manual for our Valkyries.  The OEM manual has a very nice wiring diagram in the back of it, but it's in black and white.  

The Cylmer manual has wiring diagrams in COLOR.  Very easy to read and to understand.  

[9Ball]

There are other options bwsides the fuse boxes mentioned above. 

I installed a Painless brand weatherproof auxiliary fuse block instead of the recommended panels.  The relay is built in, all the connections are in a neat package, and everything is sealed to prevent water damage.  They make larger panels if that's what you need, but I have the 3 circuit model for my driving lights, stebel horn, and gps power.  My Scorpio alarm is direct wired to the battery to hide the wires from being accessed at the fuse panel by would be vandals.

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=70203

The benefit of this setup is that you can put this fuse box in a smaller space than the power panels and not have to worry about damage from water.  I bought mine on special order through AutoZone for $45...that was 5 or 6 years ago.

Good luck with whatever you decide, just know there are other possibly as good or better setups and maybe cheaper alternatives.

[BF]

There are other options bwsides the fuse boxes mentioned above.  

I installed a Painless brand weatherproof auxiliary fuse block instead of the recommended panels.  The relay is built in, all the connections are in a neat package, and everything is sealed to prevent water damage.  They make larger panels if that's what you need, but I have the 3 circuit model for my driving lights, stebel horn, and gps power.  My Scorpio alarm is direct wired to the battery to hide the wires from being accessed at the fuse panel by would be vandals.

http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=70203

The benefit of this setup is that you can put this fuse box in a smaller space than the power panels and not have to worry about damage from water.  I bought mine on special order through AutoZone for $45...that was 5 or 6 years ago.

Good luck with whatever you decide, just know there are other possibly as good or better setups and maybe cheaper alternatives.

After looking at that, I'm still a fan of the PC-8.  

The relay is also pre-wired with the PC-8.  All you have to do is attach the three wires to the PC-8, the postive and negative to the battery, and the third wire to the accessory wire under the right side panel.  Easy peasy.  



Third wire (switching lead) goes here......



Another member's bike showing where the acc. lead is.....



Here's some wiring diagrams that might help.....







Note that this diagram shows the acc. wire (terminals) under the ride side cover........

[Denny47]

If anyone does use the 5 pin relay as pictured in hubcapsc's post, you can buy the connector for it at NAPA, part # EC23. Just bought another, have used several of the relays on different applications, paid $10.50 for it. I have used the crimp on connectors and fabbed my own wires but the EC23 makes it easier, you don't have to remember where each of the five wires plug to the relay and I install the fuse prior to the relay in the feed wire. Trigger wire should also be fused, whether from the original feed or a separate trigger feed. Just remember that the unused 5th wire on the relay is hot when the trigger feed is off.

[ragincajun]

Man looking at those wiring diagrams makes me want to rip my eyeballs out and I think my brain melted.

[AZdougness]

Just remember that the unused 5th wire on the relay is hot when the trigger feed is off.

Why wouldn't you use a 4way relay to avoid this? Forgive me if I missed something in the thread but having a 24/7 hot un-used lead, even if it is fused, wouldn't be my idea of safe.

[BigBad1]

+1 on the PC 8 from Eastern Beaver

[9Ball]

Eastern Beaver makes some nice stuff.  It's a shame that Jim has downsized his product line as he had some nice wiring harnesses available for GPS and Stebel horns, along with a lot of parts to make your own circuits.

Let us know how it all works out for you.

[BF]

Man looking at those wiring diagrams makes me want to rip my eyeballs out and I think my brain melted.

There, I deleted the last one.  The others are easy to understand if just you find your component and then just follow the wires.

To install the PC-8, all you'll need to do is find the accessory terminal/leads.  They're on the diagrams and pics I posted.......under the ride side cover.   

Any of what you are wanting to do starting to make any since yet......or do you still need help?

[Gryphon Rider]

Why wouldn't you use a 4way relay to avoid this? Forgive me if I missed something in the thread but having a 24/7 hot un-used lead, even if it is fused, wouldn't be my idea of safe.

As long as you don't connect a bare wire to that terminal it's no more an hazard than your "hot" positive battery terminal.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

John I'm off tuesday thru thursday. give me a call

[BF]

"Not exactly sure what to order from the guy.  He has a ton of option, lengths etc.  any suggestions there?"


"Exactly" what I ordered was the 30 inch, 50 amp kit (it's currently listed on his site for $104) with the option of having the positive and negative battery leads the same length ($2.00 option). 

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/pc-8.html#50akit

Here's the installation link from his site....

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/Fuseboxes/PC-8/Installation/installation.html

Look at the pics in this thread to see how I ran it.....

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,38349.0.html

The 30" kit is a little long.  However, when I ran mine, I didn't want the leads running over the top of the battery, so I ran them a little long and around the over flow bottle (see the pics in the above thread).  You could probably get away with the 24" leads (or maybe even less), but I'd rather have more than I need than not have them long enough.  There's plenty of room for the side cover with it ran over the overflow bottle like that too....the wires don't get in the way of that at all.

Again, check the pics in the thread so you can judge for yourself what length you'll need depending on how you want to install yours.