Recommended oil

[tx blue]

What is everyone using for oil need to do my first oil change. I can for surely pick one just wondering what you all are using.
Phil

[st2sam]

Mobil One full Synthetic car oil from Wally World, 10/30wt..

I'll go 5>8,000mi. between changes.

[Kidd]

Mobil  1    10 40 motorcycle  synthetic
K&N filter  KN 204 because it has a hexhead for removing

BTW
The shiny  allen type bolt on the bottom of the motor is NOT the drain plug , so , do not try to remove it like I was gonna .  Lucky for me , I could not find one that fit it .

The drain plug is on the front of the motor  , next to the filter

[hungryeye]

I used Honda 10/30 full syn with a Honda oil filter on my 1st service . That is what Honda recommends, I also use their recommended Honda 80/90 Hypoid gear oil with moly $3.95 for 8 oz. good for 2 changes in the final drive. Honda warranties the bike for 3 yrs so I'll use what they say. I used the 10/30 in my NC700X in 100+ AZ heat, never used a drop with 5k mile changes. 10/30 car oil is the worse thing you can use in a M/C with a wet clutch, all car oil under 10/40 has friction modifiers not compatible with our clutches.

[ledany]

No brand you probably may know or translate in the US but full synthetic oil, 10w40, very cheap compared to the Honda dealer. The very thing I take a close look at is what's written on the label : API SL or better, API SN (waiting for a SO  ). There's another norm, japanese that says MA2 I think. The funny thing is that the best oil is rarely the mostexpensive one, on the contrary (if you take a close look at the label on the bottle) 

[hungryeye]

The most important thing that should not say on label when using in a motorcycle is "friction modifiers". The Honda oil might be $1.00 more per quart over Mob 1, not a big deal, I would not argue that Honda oil is the best, I am a Mob 1 fan.

[Robert]

Just thought you would like the information so I did a copy from a previous post you can search oil. I use either the Redline 10w40 or Mobil one in the same grade and the Pure One pl14610. Factory recommended oil changes at 8k for all changes after the first at 4k.



   

How about putting some teeth behind the oil filter thing instead of opinions. I will post a couple of articles that will explain many things about oil filters. One article cuts them apart the other does pressure tests. So you have everything covered. Very informative, very complete and thorough. I just changed mine at 450 to Mobil 1 10/40 motorcycle oil, I am going to change it again at 1000, then 1500 then normal changes from there.


http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?322779-Oil-Filter-PSI-Test-Results
http://oilfilterdata.com/index.php
http://goldplug.com/shop/   I will use this for the drain plugs

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FilterXRef.html
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/NewBike.html#BreakIn  Also a interesting article on break in

I wanted the best for my bike and have used the Purolator on my 01 without any problems what so ever and even took off a K&N without changing the oil and put on a Pure One and had the oil change shades as the particles were cleaned out of the oil. So when I got my 14 I rechecked my findings and found some of this on the Wing site. It really puts to bed any concern about using the automotive filters on our bikes. The 14610 and the 14612 are essentially the same specs except the 14610 is 3/4 of an inch longer.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,79276.0.html

[Moofner]

I'm paying the slightly higher prices for Honda oil while it's under warranty.  After 5 years? No idea.

[ledany]

I'm sorry to say that the Mobil 1 is a good oil (API SM/CF) but not the best. I checked the bottle I have, Castrol Magnatec 5w40 and this one is API SN/CF & ACEA C3. I do not pretend it's the best ever, I just read what's written on the label, the rest is marketing stuff. BTW, there is no Honda oil  , in France we have mostly agreements between the local dealer and a brand.

@Moofner : you guys in the new world have a five year warranty !    My bike will probably be more than 63,000 mls by then, I'd love to have such a warranty   

[Robert]

Ledany

The specs are for European oil not necessarily better so you need to read the specs since they are very specific. They do have a rating for sheer stable A5 oil also which I would think motorcycles should have. The other problem is for consistency of ratings they do not specify the tests used to rate these standards. I have never heard of this till you brought it up but it does not sound on the surface like a consumer oriented solution to long engine life. The oils with the US designations in some cases might actually be better.

The more I look into this there is no European rating for motorcycle specific oil. The JASO rating still applies and the US ratings but I cannot find a European rating for motorcycle oils.
Even Shell Global does not rate their motorcycle oil to any European spec.
There is no spec for Zinc an anti wear additive either.

ACEA
EUROPEAN OIL SEQUENCE FOR SERVICE

https://www.acea.be/uploads/publications/2012_ACEA_Oil_Sequences.pdf

The European Automobile Manufacturers' Association (or Association des Constructeurs Européens d'Automobiles in French, hence the ACEA abbreviation) is an organization that represents the 15 most important European motor vehicle manufacturers. It's the successor of CCMC (Comité des
Constructeurs du Marché Commun). According to their statement, ACEA is an advocate for the automobile industry in Europe, representing manufacturers of passenger cars, vans, trucks and buses with production sites in the EU.

http://www.oilspecifications.org/acea.php

http://wiki.seloc.org/a/Oil_Labelling_Explained

HTHS - High temperature High shear A relatively new oil test/specification, the oil is subjected to high temperature 150C and is mechanically sheared at 1 x 10^6 per second. A value of 2.8 or is considered the minumum for normal bearing wear. Here are some HTHS numbers on well known oils, the higher the number the more shear stable the oil; 4's and 5's are excellent numbers and demonstrate basestock quality e.g. Silkolene and Motul.

Mobil 1 0W40 HTHS 3.6

Castrol RS 10w-60 HTHS 3.7

Castrol RS 0w-40 HTHS 3.7

Silkolene PRO S 5w-40 HTHS 4.07

Motul 300V 10w-40 HTHS 4.19

Motul 300V 5w-40 HTHS 4.51

Redline 5w40 HTHS 4.6

Redline 10W40 HTHS 4.7

Mobil 1 15w-50 HTHS 5.11

Silkolene PRO S 10w-50 HTHS 5.11

Silkolene PRO R 15w-50 HTHS 5.23

Motul 300V 15w-50 HTHS 5.33

Redline 15W50 HTHS 5.8

http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/106%20Motorcycle%20Oils%20and%20API%20Ratings.pdf

[Pete]

Mobile 1 15w50 as I am in the hot South.
Wally world has most Mobile 1 on Roll Back price at $22 for 5 quarts.

[hungryeye]

Honda specifies a lighter oil because of modern tight tolerance design. Higher viscosity is fine for ancient designs like Harley or air cooled engines like BMW boxers. The 10w30 will work better in our engines, it will better reach those tight tolerances much better than 15/50 especially on cold startups. 10/40 is the highest I would go. Not only did I run the light stuff in my NC700 but also in a V10 Ford F250 using 5w20 towing a 8000 lb tractor around AZ, it also never used a drop in 100++ AZ heat.

[98valk]

I like the new Delo 10w30 diesel oil, w/high dose of Boron. Honda does call for 10w30 oil for the GL1800 and a lot of their other bikes.

http://www.lngpublishing.com/LNGmagazine/index.cfm
this months issue
http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/e9f4b3fd#/e9f4b3fd/1

see article  Two-wheelers love oil too!

they have a pic of the new goldwing valkyrie as a bonus.
JASO spec'd motorcycle oil are basically the same specs as heavy-duty diesel oil standards.
JASO does not test oils, manufactures pay a fee to JASO and state their oil meets the specs.

see article, another grade for the heavy-duty upgrade?

even better diesel oils coming into the market much better wear protection and using a 10w30 for better mpg.

use technical facts not emotional logic and one will save money on oil and fuel costs.
I have posted my used oil analysis before Valkyrie 1500 using 10w30 diesel oil for 8k miles from the hot summer through a cold winter riding with the bike sitting for 1 month, one of the toughest conditions for an oil. UOA came back normal to low wear and oil was still good for continued use, at least another 2k miles.

[CajunRider]

I've been running Mobile 1 Racing 4T (10W-40 full synthetic) since my first oil change at 700 (ish) miles. 

5K to 6K changes and the oil still looks good... I haven't gone much over 6K on a single change yet. 

My main reason for using that one is because my other bike ('04 Triumph Thunderbird Sport) specifically calls out "only" 10W-40 Full Synthetic for oil changes.  And since that's right in the sweet spot for what Honda calls for the 1800, I can use one oil for both bikes. 

Yes, it's a bit expensive... but both bikes seem to like it (good fuel mileage, quiet, easy shifts, etc. etc. etc.) 

[Robert]

I had often heard of the newer engines being tighter clearances than the earlier engines, which many have used as the logic for thinner oil. So While probably true for some engines we have the perfect comparison here on these engines.

  So Having a shop manual for our 14 Valk and the shop manual for a 02 wing I decided to do some checking. What I found is although our Valks recommend a 10w-30 and the wing is recommending a 10w-40 the clearances are the same. In fact I cannot find much in the way of differences that are meaningful.
 
   So while some on earlier 1800 Goldwings use the 15w-50 oil and have had no problems I would have to say that the call for 10w-30 oil is simply a EPA judgement call. So I doubt no matter what oil you use if you use a synthetic the mileage between different grades will be minimal. I also doubt there will be much difference in wear either.

 My personal choice is not to use a 30 weight oil but at least a 40 weight and it has nothing to do with engine wear but more to do with shifting and quietness on the thicker oil is much better. The 50 weight in my 01 Valk made all the difference in the world in gear whine and shifting and while I now know I can use the 50 in the 14 Valk I will more than likely stay with the Redline 40 weight.



 

[Pete]

Does no one read the manual anymore????

From the 1997 Valkyrie manual

10w30 for temp range 10 to 90 degree F
10w40 for temp range 10 to 100+ degree F
20w40 for temp range 35 to 100+ degree F
20w50 for temp range 35 t0 100++ degree F

[98valk]

I had often heard of the newer engines being tighter clearances than the earlier engines, which many have used as the logic for thinner oil. So While probably true for some engines we have the perfect comparison here on these engines.

  So Having a shop manual for our 14 Valk and the shop manual for a 02 wing I decided to do some checking. What I found is although our Valks recommend a 10w-30 and the wing is recommending a 10w-40 the clearances are the same. In fact I cannot find much in the way of differences that are meaningful.
 
   So while some on earlier Goldwings use the 15w-50 oil and have had no problems I would have to say that the call for 10w-30 oil is simply a EPA judgement call. So I doubt no matter what oil you use if you use a synthetic the mileage between different grades will be minimal. I also doubt there will be much difference in wear either.

 My personal choice is not to use a 30 weight oil but at least a 40 weight and it has nothing to do with engine wear but more to do with shifting and quietness on the thicker oil is much better. The 50 weight in my 01 Valk made all the difference in the world in gear whine and shifting and while I now know I can use the 50 in the 14 Valk I will more than likely stay with the Redline 40 weight.

 

the oil today is so much more advanced compared to the oil specs for the 1988 GL1500.  due to many engine design parameters that need to be met today just about all oil on the shelf is actually a semi-synthetic oil, the ones that say synthetic is just a word used today to up the price.

As I have written many times a diesel is the best oil to use. the oil has to survive the high shear and speed of a long piston stroke, survive a 10k+ rpm hot turbo, prevent wear from the large increase in high wear soot particles due to the EPA required EGR systems and to operate as a hydraulic fluid to operated modern diesel fuel injectors all at the same time and still provide a 5-8k mile oil change interval.
A GL engine provides very little stress to an oil and why it can go 10k btwn oil changes with zero problems. a used oil analysis will bear this out as I have done.
best plan diesel oil change filter at 5k miles, then top off and change at 10k miles, unless UOA shows otherwise.
The modern day oil is that great.

[hungryeye]

My 2014 manual states 10w30, does not mention any other viscosity anywhere, just says "recommended oil 10w30" on 2 different pages.

Remember these engines and bikes used to be made in Oho USA, now made in a new factory in Japan, I doubt they moved the worn tools to from Ohio to Japan. Also, since the 90's oil has changed along with engineering practices.

[goldstar903]

Does no one read the manual anymore????

From the 1997 Valkyrie manual

10w30 for temp range 10 to 90 degree F
10w40 for temp range 10 to 100+ degree F
20w40 for temp range 35 to 100+ degree F
20w50 for temp range 35 t0 100++ degree F

That's fine for 1520's, but we are discussing the 1832. I realize that you make a valid point suggesting that we read the service manual for a specific bike. The 1832 service manual states word for word:

Recommended Engine Oil:
Pro Honda GN4 4 stroke oil (USA and Canada) or equivalent motorcycle oil.
API service classification: SG or Higher (except oils labeled as energy conserving on the circular API service label)
JASO T 903 standard: MA
Viscosity: SAE 10W-30

I personally use Shell Rotella 5W-40 in all my bikes and automobiles. I also use Purolator oil filters. 
 
Moofner, I read your post about not wanting to invalidate your warranty by using an oil other than Honda's. With that line of thinking, aren't you also concerned that modifying your electrical system will also incur the wrath of Honda?  ???

Sorry Pete, I was writing this post as you were posting!  
 

[Robert]

the oil today is so much more advanced compared to the oil specs for the 1988 GL1500.  due to many engine design parameters that need to be met today just about all oil on the shelf is actually a semi-synthetic oil, the ones that say synthetic is just a word used today to up the price.

As I have written many times a diesel is the best oil to use. the oil has to survive the high shear and speed of a long piston stroke, survive a 10k+ rpm hot turbo, prevent wear from the large increase in high wear soot particles due to the EPA required EGR systems and to operate as a hydraulic fluid to operated modern diesel fuel injectors all at the same time and still provide a 5-8k mile oil change interval.
A GL engine provides very little stress to an oil and why it can go 10k btwn oil changes with zero problems. a used oil analysis will bear this out as I have done.
best plan diesel oil change filter at 5k miles, then top off and change at 10k miles, unless UOA shows otherwise.
The modern day oil is that great.

I have heard many use the diesel oil with good results so I dont doubt that it will work ok.

Great read by the way on the online magazines you posted

  Shearing is not done as badly by pistons as by gears by the way. The gears on a motorcycle destroy the life of oil and additives by their natural design of shearing. As for turbos whats a killer there is the temps they operate at. I have had to replace many before synthetics due to deposits on the bearing due to high temps at shut off. With synthetics that has been virtually eliminated. The deposits on the engine also come from high temps in some cases. The piston crown and rings are cooled by oil and they are typically extremely hot and way hotter than dino oils can protect at. This is in part why you have deposits and ring clogging.

 Most high performance engines like Ferrari and have oil jets pointing at the underside of the piston crown just for that purpose.

[98valk]

the oil today is so much more advanced compared to the oil specs for the 1988 GL1500.  due to many engine design parameters that need to be met today just about all oil on the shelf is actually a semi-synthetic oil, the ones that say synthetic is just a word used today to up the price.

As I have written many times a diesel is the best oil to use. the oil has to survive the high shear and speed of a long piston stroke, survive a 10k+ rpm hot turbo, prevent wear from the large increase in high wear soot particles due to the EPA required EGR systems and to operate as a hydraulic fluid to operated modern diesel fuel injectors all at the same time and still provide a 5-8k mile oil change interval.
A GL engine provides very little stress to an oil and why it can go 10k btwn oil changes with zero problems. a used oil analysis will bear this out as I have done.
best plan diesel oil change filter at 5k miles, then top off and change at 10k miles, unless UOA shows otherwise.
The modern day oil is that great.

I have heard many use the diesel oil with good results so I dont doubt that it will work ok.

Great read by the way on the online magazines you posted

  Shearing is not done as badly by pistons as by gears by the way. The gears on a motorcycle destroy the life of oil and additives by their natural design of shearing. As for turbos whats a killer there is the temps they operate at. I have had to replace many before synthetics due to deposits on the bearing due to high temps at shut off. With synthetics that has been virtually eliminated. The deposits on the engine also come from high temps in some cases. The piston crown and rings are cooled by oil and they are typically extremely hot and way hotter than dino oils can protect at. This is in part why you have deposits and ring clogging.

 Most high performance engines like Ferrari and have oil jets pointing at the underside of the piston crown just for that purpose.

most diesel engines use piston oil jet cooling, developed by cat diesel, same design Suzuki uses for a lot of their oil/air cooled engines.
gear shearing is not a problem. the gear cut used in transmissions causes very low shear. most manual trans in vehicles call for ATF, motorcycle gears are same type of cut.  Gear shearing is a problem in differential gears different cut which causes high shear and hence the requirement for 75-80/90/140 gear oil.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/effects-of-shearing/

and a new CJ-4 diesel oil has to survive this btwn each oil change.
• Use a quality, SAE certified synthetic motor oil that meets or exceeds Ford's specifications. The 6.0L Power Stroke uses an HEUI injection system, the heart of which is a high pressure oil pump that supplies up to 4,000 psi of oil pressure to each injector. Because of this high pressure, oil shear becomes a concern. Oil shear occurs when the molecules of engine oil are physically broken down, and occurs under extreme heat and pressure.

[Moofner]

Does no one read the manual anymore????

From the 1997 Valkyrie manual

10w30 for temp range 10 to 90 degree F
10w40 for temp range 10 to 100+ degree F
20w40 for temp range 35 to 100+ degree F
20w50 for temp range 35 t0 100++ degree F

That's fine for 1520's, but we are discussing the 1832. I realize that you make a valid point suggesting that we read the service manual for a specific bike. The 1832 service manual states word for word:

Recommended Engine Oil:
Pro Honda GN4 4 stroke oil (USA and Canada) or equivalent motorcycle oil.
API service classification: SG or Higher (except oils labeled as energy conserving on the circular API service label)
JASO T 903 standard: MA
Viscosity: SAE 10W-30

I personally use Shell Rotella 5W-40 in all my bikes and automobiles. I also use Purolator oil filters. 
 
Moofner, I read your post about not wanting to invalidate your warranty by using an oil other than Honda's. With that line of thinking, aren't you also concerned that modifying your electrical system will also incur the wrath of Honda?  ???

Sorry Pete, I was writing this post as you were posting!  
 

Its all about interpretation and if they catch your modification. All my additions are post ecu, meaning the ecu doesn't read or log any changes to the electrical system unless I screw up and fry the whole thing.

Dealers will test oil on an engine warranty claim and that is the first place they go to deny a engine claim. I can remove all my mods if need be. I can't remove residual oil from a buggered engine. Warranties are nice, but companies do NOT want you using them since it comes directly out of their bottom line.

[98valk]

 
[/quote]


Dealers will test oil on an engine warranty claim and that is the first place they go to deny a engine claim. I can remove all my mods if need be. I can't remove residual oil from a buggered engine. Warranties are nice, but companies do NOT want you using them since it comes directly out of their bottom line.
[/quote]

the deny a claim based on using a different oil is against Federal Law.
Magnuson Moss Warranty Act

[Robert]

most diesel engines use piston oil jet cooling, developed by cat diesel, same design Suzuki uses for a lot of their oil/air cooled engines.
gear shearing is not a problem. the gear cut used in transmissions causes very low shear. most manual trans in vehicles call for ATF, motorcycle gears are same type of cut.  Gear shearing is a problem in differential gears different cut which causes high shear and hence the requirement for 75-80/90/140 gear oil.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/effects-of-shearing/

and a new CJ-4 diesel oil has to survive this btwn each oil change.
• Use a quality, SAE certified synthetic motor oil that meets or exceeds Ford's specifications. The 6.0L Power Stroke uses an HEUI injection system, the heart of which is a high pressure oil pump that supplies up to 4,000 psi of oil pressure to each injector. Because of this high pressure, oil shear becomes a concern. Oil shear occurs when the molecules of engine oil are physically broken down, and occurs under extreme heat and pressure.

http://americasoil.biz/files/g2156_A_study_of_Motorcycle_Oils.pdf

Viscosity Shear Stability (ASTM D-6278)
An oil’s viscosity can also be affected through normal use. Mechanical activity creates shearing forces that can cause an oil to thin out, reducing its load carrying ability. Engines operating at high RPMs and those that share a common oil sump with the transmission are particularly subject to high shear rates.

Gear sets found in the transmissions are the leading cause of shear-induced viscosity loss in motorcycle applications.

The ASTM D-6278 test methodology is used to determine oil shear stability. The results point out significant differences between oils and their ability to retain their viscosity.

Within the SAE 40 group,
41.6% of the oils dropped one viscosity grade to an SAE 30.

Within the SAE 50 group, 43.8% dropped one grade to an SAE 40.

 Most of the oils losing a viscosity grade did so quickly, within the initial 30 cycles of shearing. Testing revealed that
Lucas 10W-40 High Performance Motorcycle oil was the only oil to shear to an SAE 20



If you look at an ISO chart you will find that 40 engine oil has the same viscosity as a 90 weight gear oil. It also says that the Ford shear is becoming a concern were as the motorcycle gear shear is and always has been a concern. You will also find the quantity of Zinc in some Diesel oils is not as high as motorcycle specific oils due to the new cat requirements on diesels. Now you can use other things but most diesel oils will not. You will also find that the main difference in ATF or gear oil is the additive and anti-friction package that goes into the oils. You cannot use the same friction modifiers in rear oil as gear or transmission oil or even engine oil. ATF is an equivalent viscosity to a 30 to 40 weight oil which again is equivalent to a 90 weight gear oil.



http://blog.cycletrader.com/2012/03/motorcycle-lubrication-difficult-task.html

http://assets.ngin.com/attachments/document/0016/3287/A_Study_of_Motorcycle_Oils.pdf

http://pds.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSENPVLMOMobil_1_Motorcycle_Oils.aspx
Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 and Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 4-cycle motorcycle oils

    Maximum shear stability to help resist viscosity shear down in high performance engines and transmissions
    Exceptional thermal stability to help resist oxidation and high-temperature degradation
    Outstanding protection against wear of engine and transmission components
    Enhanced lubrication to help maintain maximum power and acceleration over the life of the engine
    Optimized wet-clutch performance
    Excellent low temperature flow characteristics to help minimize engine wear during start-up

So motorcycle engine oil does not contain the friction modifiers of a passenger car engine oil. The second area of concern for motorcycle engine oils is that they tend to shear (break down viscosity) more quickly than a typical passenger car. Mobil 1™ motorcycle oils are designed to provide exceptional protection against viscosity loss.

[havoc]

first oil change at 6000km i used the honda filter and for Oil i used 300V FACTORY LINE ROAD RACING (i think 10W40)... Great stuff, very smooth shifting.


next oil change i will try the oil from AMSOIL and their filter...

[dans2014]

  Uh, I use Shell 5-40 T-6 full synthetic in everything I own. Wally world.co , $19.00 a gallon

[goldstar903]

We definitely need a Repost Moderator. I can't count how many threads we have regarding Tires, Oil and Windshields! Hey, that spells TOW! Not good! 

[dinosnake]

Uh, I use Shell 5-40 T-6 full synthetic in everything I own. Wally world.co , $19.00 a gallon

Same here.  My dealer did the last oil change during its scheduled service (I allowed this as it checks off the required marks in case of warranty questions) and I'm sure they used Honda oil.  I used Honda synthetic on my first change @600 miles and I noticed notchy shifting.  And, sure enough, not only am I getting notchy and missed shifts but, this Saturday, it popped out of first gear as I was maneuvering a tricky turn and the loss of forward momentum caused me to drop it  

Don't let it happen to you.  If your bike is sensitive (mine seems to be) DON'T use the Honda oil.  I never missed a single shift on Rotella T6.  YMMV of course

[Kidd]

Just now talked  with  2 Honda service  managers , both said using  oil and filers  other than Honda's will not void warranty , as long as it's  type is stated in manual .

So , using anything other than  10-30 may  void  warranty

[hungryeye]

I'm not certain but I think Honda brand may be the only 10/30 choice, Motul and other high enders might supply it but the Honda stuff is same price or similar to Valvoline or Mobil 1 syn M/C specific oil. Car oil in 10/30 is not good for bikes, also the Moss Magnuson Act says the manufacturer can specify type of product for servicing but not a specific brand. If they insist on one brand they must supply the product to you free of charge, if they insist that they perform the service it will be free of charge. I don't know of any manuf. of anything that would do that.

[hungryeye]

On the other ever heard of a Goldwing motor poopin the bed 

[Robert]

On the other ever heard of a Goldwing motor poopin the bed 

Exactly 

[AdrianR]

Mobil One full Synthetic car oil from Wally World, 10/30wt..

I'll go 5>8,000mi. between changes.

Totally wrong...you DO NOT want to use synthetic 'car oil'!   Yes, it will work fine, for awhile, then you'll clutch will slip...necessitating replacement. 

You should use motorcycle specific oil, especially with motorcycles that utilize a wet clutch.

There are plenty of options.  For me, Amsoil 10w/30 and the Honda filter.

[98 VALK]

I took this boards advice and i'am using Shell Rotella Blue Container T-6 full synthetic and a Purolator Pure One # 14610 oil filter and could not be more satisfied.

[Kidd]

it popped out of first gear as I was maneuvering a tricky turn and the loss of forward momentum caused me to drop it  

That is why I take off in 2 gear , learned it from someone here

on second thought , it could happen in second gear  as well

[tx blue]

See that there calling for 4.1 qts of oil are you all going with 4 qts or the 4.1. With filter change
Phil

[Kidd]

I add 4 quarts and eyeball  the extra little bit

[dinosnake]

It says 4.1 for a typical change but I usually need to add about 4.25 or so, I don't run the motor before the change.

[hungryeye]

4 quarts and my level was a fish taco hair below the top line. Drained after 20+ mile ride, I found that when it was done draining down to a drip every few seconds I picked up the bike to level then back on side stand and had several more ounces drain out, did that 4 times and each time it had a steady stream coming out for at least 30 seconds, on the 5th time it slowed to a few seconds, I'll bet I got another 3 ounces out. I let it drain for a few hours, sometimes overnight. I know, a bit anal.

But at least we don't talk about parts falling off the bike and other failures 

[holly]

 I have owned 21 Japanese motorcycles since 1968. I have used car oil in every single one of them, and have in many cases ran them at drag strips in 95 to 100 degree conditions, and I have never had a clutch slip yet. While oils with certain additives might cause slippage, the 10-40, 15-50, and 20-50 that I have used never have.