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DK
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« on: May 29, 2015, 06:48:34 AM » |
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I changed my oil a couple of days ago while preparing for the trip to InZane.
This time, I changed from the Valk-correct automotive 10-40 Mobile One to the M-1 4-T 10-40 motorcycle version.
It is hard to believe the change for the better in shifting, transmission noise, and clutch engagement.
I'll bet the engine is a whole lot happier too.
Expensive, but worth it.
Dan
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Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.
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pocobubba
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« Reply #1 on: May 29, 2015, 08:09:14 AM » |
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DK , good news , where did you find the oil ?
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Farther
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« Reply #2 on: May 29, 2015, 08:33:23 AM » |
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Thanks,
~Farther
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RainMaker
Member
Posts: 6626
VRCC#24130 - VRCCDS#0117 - IBA#48473
Arlington, TX
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« Reply #3 on: May 29, 2015, 03:18:28 PM » |
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$50 a gallon?  |
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 2005 BMW R1200 GS 2000 Valkyrie Interstate 1998 Valkyrie Tourer 1981 GL1100I GoldWing 1972 CB500K1 |
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Savago
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« Reply #4 on: May 29, 2015, 03:57:44 PM » |
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I confirm your experience, but in a Suzuki vstrom DL650. Even the sound of the engine seems smoother (and that is in a V2, makes me wonder how it will affect the already smooth flat 6 in my valkyrie I/S).
For sure, next oil change in the Valk will be Mobil 1 Motorcycle too.
\o/
Savago
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98valk
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« Reply #5 on: May 29, 2015, 04:05:13 PM » |
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any diesel oil is much, much better than any m/c oil and at a lower cost. read oil specs and used oil analysis.
remember mobil m/c oil has moly in it, same amount as delo diesel oil plus it has a high level of boron the latest anti-wear additive. diesel oil has much better shear due to the higher piston speed of a long stroke engine and has to deal with a exhaust hot high speed turbo. there is a reason m/c oil cannot meet diesel oil specs to provide protection.
but do whatever makes ya feel good.
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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BF
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« Reply #6 on: May 29, 2015, 04:45:56 PM » |
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I've used the Mobil 1 20W-50 V-Twin Synthetic and a Purolator filter ever since I bought the bike.
Yes, it's expensive. Yes, I've read oil comparison analysis reports that led me to use it. And yes, it makes me feel good.
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I can't help about the shape I'm in I can't sing, I ain't pretty and my legs are thin But don't ask me what I think of you I might not give the answer that you want me to  |
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Savago
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« Reply #7 on: May 30, 2015, 12:32:37 AM » |
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CA
Just curious (and please don't take offense) but I used to have a 4x4 turbo diesel with a german engine (as a matter of fact did an expedition in Brazilian Amazon with it, but that is another story) and I recall that diesel engines by definition (except HSD - High Speed Diesel) are high torque + low RPM engines.
Most older engines operation RPM is around 1300-2100 and newer ones are 2000-3500 (tops).
A motorcycle engine generally operates in a much higher RPM. Not to mention that the oil takes stress from the clutch (i.e. wet clutch) *and* you don't have all the cooling available in a huge radiator (as a bike has less space and weight restriction force the use of a smaller radiator).
How a diesel engine oil could be a better fit for a motorcycle engine?
Cheers
Savago
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DK
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« Reply #8 on: May 30, 2015, 06:23:29 AM » |
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$79.00 or so from Amazon for 6 quarts. It's made in two formulas, one for V-Twins and another for, I guess, properly balanced water cooled engines. I saw the V-Twin version at the local Cycle Gear outlet a couple of days ago for $13.00/qt.
Semantics aside, I've been around a lot of machinery during my life and it's my experience that anything that makes a machine this happy in so many ways is good for the machine.
Dan
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Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.
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Bighead
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« Reply #9 on: May 30, 2015, 08:20:38 AM » |
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$79.00 or so from Amazon for 6 quarts. It's made in two formulas, one for V-Twins and another for, I guess, properly balanced water cooled engines. I saw the V-Twin version at the local Cycle Gear outlet a couple of days ago for $13.00/qt.
Semantics aside, I've been around a lot of machinery during my life and it's my experience that anything that makes a machine this happy in so many ways is good for the machine.
Dan
O'rielly's has it $10.99 a quart. |
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1997 Bumble Bee
1999 Interstate (sold)
2016 Wing
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ShiftHappens
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« Reply #10 on: May 30, 2015, 08:47:08 AM » |
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« Last Edit: May 30, 2015, 08:51:36 AM by beanman »
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1999 Interstate  |
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98valk
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« Reply #11 on: May 30, 2015, 08:49:00 AM » |
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CA
Just curious (and please don't take offense) but I used to have a 4x4 turbo diesel with a german engine (as a matter of fact did an expedition in Brazilian Amazon with it, but that is another story) and I recall that diesel engines by definition (except HSD - High Speed Diesel) are high torque + low RPM engines.
Most older engines operation RPM is around 1300-2100 and newer ones are 2000-3500 (tops).
A motorcycle engine generally operates in a much higher RPM. Not to mention that the oil takes stress from the clutch (i.e. wet clutch) *and* you don't have all the cooling available in a huge radiator (as a bike has less space and weight restriction force the use of a smaller radiator).
How a diesel engine oil could be a better fit for a motorcycle engine?
Cheers
Savago
here is one UOA http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3645452/2001_Honda_Valkyrie_-_Shell_15#Post3645452just search the thread, there is one ST1100 who has done many samples of oil, even walmart supertech 15w40 gave great results. some have compared UOAs btwn m/c and Diesel oil, sometimes no difference except $$ and others the diesel provided lower wear. |
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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Savago
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« Reply #12 on: May 30, 2015, 01:05:07 PM » |
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CA
Interesting, but notice that the user report is that "Mileage on the oil was 2,163 miles". With such low miles, even some cheap oil will still be performing fine.
The valkyrie IIRC recommended oil change interval is 7K miles for dino oil and the vstrom is 5K miles. The difference in a full synthetic oil will show up in higher mileage than say, 2K miles.
I guess in the end, it really depends on how the rider operates the motorcycle (e.g. wait for warming up the engine before hitting the road) and some minimal care (e.g. changing the oil, using decent fuel, flushing the coolant each 2 years, etc).
When I change the oil in my valkryie to Mobil 1 Motorcycle I will report if I felt any change.
Savago
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98valk
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« Reply #13 on: May 30, 2015, 04:11:55 PM » |
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1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C 10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp
"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798
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cookiedough
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« Reply #14 on: May 30, 2015, 06:06:27 PM » |
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I know a lot do not support or care for Walmart, but if you go online you can find a lot of stuff at their website NOT in the store and you can ship to store for free and pickup locally at your nearest Walmart. At 10 bucks per qt. for Mobil One cycle oil synthetic oil is a good deal am sure is good. I use Amsoil 10w-40 cycle oil in the gray bottle at 11 bucks per qt., NOT cheap but get it from my local Amsoil dealer 7 miles away figuring I only need to change it once per year regardless of mileage (unless put on say over 10K miles per year which most do not do).
That being said, I do notice, although could be my imagination, even at say 3-4K miles at the end of my riding season, the shifting mainly between 1st/2nd gear can more often get caught into neutral more so with older oil, even Amsoil synthetic.
Every fall I change my oil/filter and seems like every spring or when go for a quick ride before putting up my cycle in November with fresh Amsoil oil, the shifting seems to be buttery smooth again, especially between 1st and 2nd gear easier to not only get stuck in between gears while shifting but also easier to find neutral gear and get into neutral when needed. Fresh, clean oil, preferably synthetic, in my eyes is the #1 best thing you can do to any vehicle/cycle of any kind.
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