Just changed the oil...for the 4th time in 6500 miles.

[AdrianR]

Put 3K on the last oil change...which was done in early Feb.  3K on that oil..  It was Amsoil's pure synthetic 10w/30.  This time I am trying Castol's 4T full synthetic racing oil (10w/40). I also am trying a Purolator filter.  I got the shorter 104612 filter.  Got all of this at the local auto parts store.

I compared the new Purolator filter to the Honda OEM..  IMO, and just on visual inspection and feel, I thought the Honda filter seemed of higher quality.

Took the bike for a ride...seems all groovy....too damn hot though!!   The tar snakes everywhere out there are slippery as hell...no fun...parked it.

[dhaile]

I agree on those tar snakes.  This past spring I went with a group on a ride up into Moab UT.  All the roads were filled with tar snakes to a point where is was not fun as all.  When we got into Colorado, the tar snakes disappeared and all was good again.  Those tar snakes make your bike feel like it has a flat tire.

[st2sam]

Put 3K on the last oil change...which was done in early Feb.  3K on that oil..

Your wasting your money, sad part is I do the same thing.

3,000mi. is early for full synthetic, why I switched to a synthetic blend.

The best part is, oil changes are so easy, why not every 3,000mi.? 

[Robert]

Would recommend the Purolator filter in the Pure One in the larger size pl14610 since it filters better, has more surface area to filter and its made stronger. I did the first few oil changes at more frequent intervals also but now I am going to 6k between changes.

[AdrianR]

Would recommend the Purolator filter in the Pure One in the larger size pl14610 since it filters better, has more surface area to filter and its made stronger. I did the first few oil changes at more frequent intervals also but now I am going to 6k between changes.

Yep, I agree... I will not change oil now until next Spring, or 5K...whatever comes first.  I will though stick with the stock Honda filters...  I know you did a test...  and preferred the Purolator one filter....  I compared all three...the 12,10 and then the Honda filter.  I noticed the Honda filter...was built very well...and it had the largest 8 holes in the top.  How much oil do you lose when you change out a filter?

I also like to experiment somewhat with different oils and see which one provides the best performance.  I noticed that Lucas Oil makes a metric bike specific, all synthetic 10w/30.  I may try that next time.  So far I think the Amsoil 10w/30 has been the best in terms of shifting..and overall smoothness...very close between the two...but my feelings so far.  All of it though is great oil.  Castrol, Mobil, Amsoil...etc.

[brew1brew]

you're wasting $$ and oil, here is the service manual's maint schedule



As you can see the first oil change was suppose to be at 4k and every 8k after that, and that is assuming using natural oil.

Also on the Purolator, as Robert said, use the pure one not the standard. I have found that the long filter will go on, but it's hard to get a filter wrench on it when it's time to replace it.

[Hef]

I don't understand? Four oil changes in 6,500 miles. WHY? I use Mobil 1 and change my oil every 5k miles. Got the bike with 9k miles and now has 110k. No issues. To each his own, but I agree with the others, sounds like your wasting money, but hey, its yours!!

[Robert]

I'm sure that we all know the what the service manuals say about oil changes or at least I do and I made the choice to change the oil in the same way.

The reason is that when the engine comes from the factory brand new there is manufacturing residue and wear in particles in the engine. What I also found is there is break in oil in the crankcase. So to change this oil a few times to get all this out is what the purpose is.

  Now you could argue its not necessary and I may say maybe. You could say that many people have not done this and my reply would be the same. These engines seem to run on any oil and any change interval with the longevity really not affected to much. But it does not say anything about how it runs or feels without doing this in comparison to a bike that has had this service done. I personally feel it makes the bike run consistently smoother and shift better so the cost and time is of little issue.

[AdrianR]

  Now you could argue its not necessary and I may say maybe. You could say that many people have not done this and my reply would be the same. These engines seem to run on any oil and any change interval with the longevity really not affected to much. But it does not say anything about how it runs or feels without doing this in comparison to a bike that has had this service done. I personally feel it makes the bike run consistently smoother and shift better so the cost and time is of little issue.

Agree 100%  I wonder if this also is the reason why your bike and mine seem to be the cleanest examples here!!!  LOL...  I have done this with all of my bikes.  That is much closer oil change intervals while new...and then slowly increasing the interval with age.  As a result my bikes have ALWAYS run perfectly, and very smoothly...fast too!  I will change this oil again next spring regardless of how many more miles I put on it (within reason and time passage).. Peace of mind man...great performance...and $45 or so?...I can afford it, I work hard and make money.  This is why I work hard!

[AdrianR]

Would recommend the Purolator filter in the Pure One in the larger size pl14610 since it filters better, has more surface area to filter and its made stronger. I did the first few oil changes at more frequent intervals also but now I am going to 6k between changes.

Bob, I got the BETTER, more expensive Pure one filter (12).  It is blue, and came in a blue, hexagonal package...supposedly good for 10K miles.

[Robert]

Would recommend the Purolator filter in the Pure One in the larger size pl14610 since it filters better, has more surface area to filter and its made stronger. I did the first few oil changes at more frequent intervals also but now I am going to 6k between changes.

Bob, I got the BETTER, more expensive Pure one filter (12).  It is blue, and came in a blue, hexagonal package...supposedly good for 10K miles.

I had to look up the filter and see when you said blue, because the filter that I know as the Pure One is yellow.

  Well dam they changed the whole line, there are going to be alot of people upset over this including me. Besides getting the (10) I think the correct filter is going to be the Boss from now on. Was looking at the promotional stuff and it seems that is the heavy duty outside along with all the heavy duty internals. There is not much information on the One filter. I think I'm going to go out and buy about a dozen Pure Ones in the yellow if I can find them. Ill have more info tomorrow and I will post that.

Bosch and MANN+HUMMEL to Acquire Purolator Filter Business from ArvinMeritor

Well this is why no more Purolator as we know it.

[dinosnake]

  Now you could argue its not necessary and I may say maybe. You could say that many people have not done this and my reply would be the same. These engines seem to run on any oil and any change interval with the longevity really not affected to much. But it does not say anything about how it runs or feels without doing this in comparison to a bike that has had this service done. I personally feel it makes the bike run consistently smoother and shift better so the cost and time is of little issue.

Agree 100%  I wonder if this also is the reason why your bike and mine seem to be the cleanest examples here!!!  LOL...  I have done this with all of my bikes.  That is much closer oil change intervals while new...and then slowly increasing the interval with age.  As a result my bikes have ALWAYS run perfectly, and very smoothly...fast too!  I will change this oil again next spring regardless of how many more miles I put on it (within reason and time passage).. Peace of mind man...great performance...and $45 or so?...I can afford it, I work hard and make money.  This is why I work hard!

+2 I've always wondered why people spend +$10K, in our case up to $18K, on a bike then worry about spending an extra +$7 on filters and +$25-$50 on oil, per change (even on our bikes, changing at 3K is 2x change recommendations so you simply spend double per equivalent change, or all of...$40 per 6K miles).

It's ultra-cheap prevention, gives you both best protection and best performance (shifting and other),.

[brew1brew]

Would recommend the Purolator filter in the Pure One in the larger size pl14610 since it filters better, has more surface area to filter and its made stronger. I did the first few oil changes at more frequent intervals also but now I am going to 6k between changes.

Bob, I got the BETTER, more expensive Pure one filter (12).  It is blue, and came in a blue, hexagonal package...supposedly good for 10K miles.

I had to look up the filter and see when you said blue, because the filter that I know as the Pure One is yellow.

  Well dam they changed the whole line, there are going to be alot of people upset over this including me. Besides getting the (10) I think the correct filter is going to be the Boss from now on. Was looking at the promotional stuff and it seems that is the heavy duty outside along with all the heavy duty internals. There is not much information on the One filter. I think I'm going to go out and buy about a dozen Pure Ones in the yellow if I can find them. Ill have more info tomorrow and I will post that.

Bosch and MANN+HUMMEL to Acquire Purolator Filter Business from ArvinMeritor

Well this is why no more Purolator as we know it.

ok, to here and here to read up on why the PureOne filter is most recommended.

[ledany]

The best oil we can get here (API SN), 5w40 full synthetic, in a general store : 1,32 gal/23 $ 

[98valk]

I change all of the light bulbs in my house every 3 months cause its just cheap insurance.   

[Robert]

I change all of the light bulbs in my house every 3 months cause its just cheap insurance.   

 I respect your abilities in engines and know you know alot when it comes to the tech side of things but really is it necessary to be snarky when posting about your opinion? We all know what opinions are like and if you have any rock solid evidence of good or harm done by this I would suggest you voice your opinion in a manner that doesn't cut and more in line with those abilities. Evidence and information (like you usually do) is the best way to combat wrong ideas, not being snarky. Hell, we could get that from Hillary. 

From experience by doing the changes in this way I can tell you that I have each time experienced a change in the shifting and some changes in the noises in the engine. It was not temporary and it was not anything else. I am not one open to the fresh oil change syndrome either or some psychological advantage either. Dont know exactly why but the difference was noticeable. Now if you have a different experience or are just going by oil analysis or others opinions or maybe just what has worked in the past I would like to hear it.

 I have learned that why oil analysis is good in the machine end of things no one piece or information or test has all the answers.

BTW I did this on my 1500 Valk and it didn't make a difference like it did on the 1800 did you have that experience also?
 

[dinosnake]

I change all of the light bulbs in my house every 3 months cause its just cheap insurance.   

Every automobile I have owned since 1987 has been a turbo.  If you intend to keep a turbo alive you'd BETTER change your oil every 3K.  I have NEVER suffered an oil-related failure on a single one of my turbos (just broken timing belts on Mitsubishis, really, don't get me started! ) and my last car, a VW 1.8 Turbo, was sold with 220,000 miles.  That owner in turn has just sold the VW with 330,000 miles, due to the need of a transmission repair (new solenoids) and he just didn't want to bother - by taking my recommendations of 3K oil changes and cooldowns, he NEVER suffered from a problem as well.

So what did he just buy?  A previously die-hard Honda car nut?  Another VW 1.8 Turbo!    Now that he knows how to take care of them he loves them just as much as I do!  What's not to love about 30+ MPG with power to boot?

So I'm just used to servicing all my vehicles with 3K oil changes, and my tranny (YMMV) really shifts much easier with fresh oil.  On my bike, it is quite noticeable (so much so that, when using Honda oils, it can pop out of 1st from a stop).

[Kidd]

I have considered  buying a Infiniti with their new 400hp turbo as I love and drive a Infiniti now .
I am afraid of potential mega problems with turbo  , they turn very very fast  , seems like an accident begging to happen

[98valk]

I change all of the light bulbs in my house every 3 months cause its just cheap insurance.   

Every automobile I have owned since 1987 has been a turbo.  If you intend to keep a turbo alive you'd BETTER change your oil every 3K.  I have NEVER suffered an oil-related failure on a single one of my turbos (just broken timing belts on Mitsubishis, really, don't get me started! ) and my last car, a VW 1.8 Turbo, was sold with 220,000 miles.  That owner in turn has just sold the VW with 330,000 miles, due to the need of a transmission repair (new solenoids) and he just didn't want to bother - by taking my recommendations of 3K oil changes and cooldowns, he NEVER suffered from a problem as well.

So what did he just buy?  A previously die-hard Honda car nut?  Another VW 1.8 Turbo!    Now that he knows how to take care of them he loves them just as much as I do!  What's not to love about 30+ MPG with power to boot?

So I'm just used to servicing all my vehicles with 3K oil changes, and my tranny (YMMV) really shifts much easier with fresh oil.  On my bike, it is quite noticeable (so much so that, when using Honda oils, it can pop out of 1st from a stop).

WOW! diesel engines have been using turbos for yrs and they don't change their oil every 3k miles and their engines go on for 100ks of miles including the Turbos.

[98valk]

I change all of the light bulbs in my house every 3 months cause its just cheap insurance.   

 I respect your abilities in engines and know you know alot when it comes to the tech side of things but really is it necessary to be snarky when posting about your opinion? We all know what opinions are like and if you have any rock solid evidence of good or harm done by this I would suggest you voice your opinion in a manner that doesn't cut and more in line with those abilities. Evidence and information (like you usually do) is the best way to combat wrong ideas, not being snarky. Hell, we could get that from Hillary. 

From experience by doing the changes in this way I can tell you that I have each time experienced a change in the shifting and some changes in the noises in the engine. It was not temporary and it was not anything else. I am not one open to the fresh oil change syndrome either or some psychological advantage either. Dont know exactly why but the difference was noticeable. Now if you have a different experience or are just going by oil analysis or others opinions or maybe just what has worked in the past I would like to hear it.

 I have learned that why oil analysis is good in the machine end of things no one piece or information or test has all the answers.

BTW I did this on my 1500 Valk and it didn't make a difference like it did on the 1800 did you have that experience also?
 

just trying to make a point.
I've done UOA for my Valkyrie 1500 and todays oils are good up to 10k miles maybe longer with a filter change and top off.
 Honda always recommended an 8k oil change with their oil. Oils much much better than when they spec'd it out.
many studies out showing changing the filter too often actually increases wear and that most filters today are good to 15k miles.

[Robert]

Cant agree on the filter issue because that is exactly why Purolator has changed their filter design and stated the mileage that they are good for. Also I can tell you as a fact that Mercedes a long time ago has had to change the filter design to something similar to the Boss by Purolator which is a fleece filter because they were blowing up engines because of clogged filters. I had a BMW X5 come in with a strange noise a whistle kind of noise. The techs didn't know what it was I said change the filter and sure enough the noise went away. So like I said oil checking doesn't say everything like on all the engines that I see that have adhered to the 12 and 15k oil changes the inside of the engine looks like burnt food. This kind of deposit does not come out without rebuilding the engine. Oil analysis of the oil is ok so like I said it does not show everything.

   The fact that diesels can run much longer on oil is not a surprise either, neither is turbo life, because one fact that you are not considering is heat. Gas engines run hotter and that includes all gas engines like the ones in motorcycles. It destroys oil,turbos and anything that is in the heat for any period of time. Also most diesels you are referring to run on big trucks that run for a long period before shut off not the stop and start normal vehicle usage that we see in cars and motorcycles. The fact that diesels in trucks also have micron filters of 2 microns may play a big part in the life of the turbos. Turbos in the old days did not used to have water cooling or residual oil cooing either. This was a direct result of mfgs trying to get the life out of the turbos or prolong turbo life. They had big problems on the first Chrysler's that used them and were replacing them all the time. Another improvement was ceramic bearings in the turbos that would hold up longer in high heat.

 Diesels also do not spool up the turbo like a gas engine does and they don't run as high rpm as gas engines either. All of these are factors why turbos work on diesels but cars until recently have been spotty. Like on the inside of engines as well as turbo bearings I have seen the coke deposits that destroy.

[Robert]

I have considered  buying a Infiniti with their new 400hp turbo as I love and drive a Infiniti now .
I am afraid of potential mega problems with turbo  , they turn very very fast  , seems like an accident begging to happen

Dont worry about the turbo issue on this car between the better quality oil and the improvement in turbo bearings there has been a very low failure rate. Nice car by the way.

When I had my RX7 I did quite a bit of turbo stuff and they are just amazing what can be done with different rotors, housings and blades in the turbos.

[dinosnake]

WOW! diesel engines have been using turbos for yrs and they don't change their oil every 3k miles and their engines go on for 100ks of miles including the Turbos.

Mitsubishi had a 3K recommended oil change interval and VW had 5K interval in their owners manuals; the VW had a water-cooled turbo bearing and after-turnoff circulation pump to help.  I used the severe usage as I ended up in quite a bit of stop and go driving on the way to work every day.

So anyway, people are still worrying about nickel-and-diming your ride after spending mucho $$$$ on owning it in the first place.  It's your ride - do what you want.  If you want to save $40 every few months, do it, who am I to argue?  I'll stick to my own maintenance schedule, thank you very much.  I do not worry my little head over spending too much (and I don't even spend much, about $33 bucks or so) as well as not questioning what condition that oil in that pan of mine just might be in.  That, and after having the tranny pop out of gear I'll take the extra bit of cash to be happy.  Talk to the Toyota sludge victims, who changed oil on recommended intervals, about oil.

[six2go #152]

Ok Adrian, My curiosity got the best of me, I went to O'Reilly's and picked up some of that super Lucas juice along with a Wix WL10000 filter, came home and did a change. I too have been changing frequently(not as much as you though), my F6B has 12,400 miles on it and the last 2 changes were done with Amsoil 10w-40 MC oil and Mobil 1 10w-40 MC. I felt that both of those performed well but hey, I'm open to try new things. Haven't ridden yet with the Lucas 10w-30 but when I fired it up to check for leaks, the valve train did seem to be quieter than with the Amsoil or Mobil 1. Time will tell. 

[AdrianR]

Haven't ridden yet with the Lucas 10w-30 but when I fired it up to check for leaks, the valve train did seem to be quieter than with the Amsoil or Mobil 1. Time will tell. 

I just rode my bike all last weekend.  It's ran smoother and quicker then ever before...  Is it because it is breaking in more?  Or is it the new oil?  Hmmmmm...

[98valk]

WOW! diesel engines have been using turbos for yrs and they don't change their oil every 3k miles and their engines go on for 100ks of miles including the Turbos.

Mitsubishi had a 3K recommended oil change interval and VW had 5K interval in their owners manuals; the VW had a water-cooled turbo bearing and after-turnoff circulation pump to help.  I used the severe usage as I ended up in quite a bit of stop and go driving on the way to work every day.

So anyway, people are still worrying about nickel-and-diming your ride after spending mucho $$$$ on owning it in the first place.  It's your ride - do what you want.  If you want to save $40 every few months, do it, who am I to argue?  I'll stick to my own maintenance schedule, thank you very much.  I do not worry my little head over spending too much (and I don't even spend much, about $33 bucks or so) as well as not questioning what condition that oil in that pan of mine just might be in.  That, and after having the tranny pop out of gear I'll take the extra bit of cash to be happy.  Talk to the Toyota sludge victims, who changed oil on recommended intervals, about oil.

most people don't understand what is meant by "stop-n-go" driving.
It means and always has meant, starting the engine and then shutting it off all of the time before the oil temp gets up to operating temp. usually constant running for 20 minutes will bring it up to temp.
It had never had anything to do with rush hour traffic. The oil change companies, the parts stores that sell oil, etc., have spread the lie about rush hr traffic to increase their sales for oil changes.
As I have said many times one used oil analysis will wake a person up to the truth.

the Toyota's had an engine design problem, apples to oranges. why bring it up?? 

[Robert]

I posted this article on severe service because contrary to what you may think most vehicles qualify for this type of service. This is also the reason for early oil changes and fluid changes, most dont have any idea they really need to be following severe service.
****************

Florida's status as a 'severe service' state means you may need special auto care
September 23, 2011|By Steven Cole Smith, AUTOMOTIVE EDITOR

You might not think you're putting your car through severe driving conditions, if you primarily utilize it to drive to work and for personal use. But merely living in Florida means your car may need the special care and maintenance schedules recommended for "severe service" states – including more frequent oil and fluid changes.

"Just living and driving in Florida can qualify," said Larry Perry, a multiple Automotive Service Excellence-certified mechanic who owns an Orlando repair shop called The Magic Mechanic, and who has hosted a weekly call-in radio show by that name since 1991.

Why is that important? Because many vehicles list two separate maintenance schedules in the owner's manual – one for regular driving, and one for "severe duty" or "severe service," which calls for more frequent maintence.

A severe duty schedule might call for shorter intervals between oil and filter changes, transmission fluid and filter changes, power steering fluid changes, brake fluid changes, air filter changes, radiator coolant changes and other filters and fluids. Gasoline and windshield washer fluid are, of course, used up and replaced as a matter of course, but other fluids must be changed at some point. What "some point" is, though, may be a matter of debate.

Different manufacturers have different names for severe duty. Ford, in a recent F-150 pickup manual, lists a "normal schedule" for maintenance and a separate schedule for "special operating conditions." If you tow a trailer, use a car-top carrier, idle a lot in stop-and-go traffic or drive frequently in dusty or sandy conditions, Ford suggests changing the oil and filter every 3,000 miles. Under the "normal schedule," that interval is every 5,000 miles. These numbers can vary from one manufacturer to the next, and even from one model year to the next, but most all vehicles have a "normal" and "severe" set of service recommendations.

Contrary to what you may think, severe duty does not apply only to police cars, cabs, delivery vehicles or other dedicated beasts of burden. It can actually apply to vehicles that aren't driven enough, or are seldom driven at speeds that allow for an engine to heat up to a level where moisture is baked out of the system. With Florida's large population of senior citizens, that's a common occurance. It can also apply to vehicles that operate primarily in heavy stop-and-go traffic that may not log a lot of miles on the odometer, but still have a high level of "engine on" time.

"Technically, the original definition of 'severe duty' applied to any vehicle driven regularly south of a Mason-Dixon line," Perry said. "That was how the manufacturers pinpointed the southern driving climate." And yes, it can be confusing. "Some manufacturers, if their vehicle is driven in the south, recommend an automatic transmission fluid change every 60,000 miles. But if it's driven in the north, they don't recommend any change at all. That's how crazy this can get."

It can also extend to items other than fluids and filters, and vary even by the state you live in. "Let's take a Honda that has a timing belt as an example," Perry said. "In California, they recommend that the timing belt should be replaced at 120,000 miles, but in any other state, it should be 90,000. That's how sketchy and vague some of the manufacturer's service recommendations are."

Perry said that as important as climate is, "I think age and usage are even more important in determining what the right service intervals are for your vehicle. You take any vehicle that has fluid that is bathing metal parts, and it will soon begin to develop acid, and if enough acid builds up, the fluid will eventually start attacking the component it was designed to protect.

"Take the new electronic automatic transmissons; there is actually electrical voltage running through that transmission, and consequently the transmission fluid. When electricity is constantly applied to transmission fluid, it can build acid, almost like a battery. It accelerates wear and pitting. And the same thing happens inside your cooling system. That's why a lot of vehicles you wouldn't normally suspect would be better off if the owners followed the severe duty maintenance schedule."


Technical Service Bulletin 94-1R1
For instance, for a number of years, many new vehicle owners' manuals have recommended oil changes every 7,500 miles (12,000 km)/12 mont
hs or longer, and oil filter changed at the first oil change and thereafter at every second oil change, or at 15,000 mile (24,000 km) intervals for "normal" service. For diesel and turbocharged engines, the owners' manuals recommend more frequent oil and filter changes. For "severe" service, most  owners' manuals recommend an oil change every 3,000 miles (5,000 km) and an oil filter change with every oil change. This is the
interval also recommended by the Filter Manufacturers Council and the American Petroleum Institute.However, what the owners' manuals call "
normal" operating conditions are really ideal conditions, mostly long highway trips rather than around-town driving.According to a previous survey done by a member company of the Filter Manufacturers Council, history has shown only about 20 percent of vehicles are
regularly driven under "normal" conditions. That means four out of five drivers are in the "severe" driving category. But no one likes to think of themselves as a severe driver. You might want to call the two categories "ideal" and "average"

[98valk]

Robert,
take that with a grain of salt. He owns a service shop, of course he wants people to change their oil more often. The guy is talking out both ends.
 USED OIL ANALYSIS, does not lie, it doesn't care about marketing hype, it doesn't care about emotional feelings, it doesn't care how the oil looks, it just will not stop!, until a person sees the truth about the oil change interval.

anybody that does just one UOA will see the light and receive decades of education in one report. Either fine a local truck/heavy equipment shop or contact Blackstone which will send a sample kit free, only pay for the analysis.

[Robert]

Robert,
take that with a grain of salt. He owns a service shop, of course he wants people to change their oil more often. The guy is talking out both ends.
 USED OIL ANALYSIS, does not lie, it doesn't care about marketing hype, it doesn't care about emotional feelings, it doesn't care how the oil looks, it just will not stop!, until a person sees the truth about the oil change interval.

anybody that does just one UOA will see the light and receive decades of education in one report. Either fine a local truck/heavy equipment shop or contact Blackstone which will send a sample kit free, only pay for the analysis.

This is the
interval also recommended by the Filter Manufacturers Council and the American Petroleum Institute

I understand what you are saying but he is correct. I know this because here in Florida and most places believe it or not according to MfGs we need to be following severe service schedules. I learned this some years ago and like you didn't believe it until I verified it with a few auto manufactures. I know about oil analysis and I know you can prolong the oil if you watch it but this is most mfg specs for maintenance. Technically you are correct but by the book its more frequent. That is the reason I am pro more frequent oil changes in certain circumstances.

You are technically oriented, but how many do you think really are and go through the trouble of oil analysis?

[AdrianR]

I will say that during the summer months while running the AC all the time in my car...the oil seems to degrade more quickly; visually anyway... But we are going off topic somewhat!

Change your oil often, within reason of course and your engine will last far longer then you! (or is that what she said!

[Kidd]

I do not keep any of my vehicles more then 3 years , so , it does not apply to me 

[cookiedough]

I don't understand? Four oil changes in 6,500 miles. WHY? I use Mobil 1 and change my oil every 5k miles. Got the bike with 9k miles and now has 110k. No issues. To each his own, but I agree with the others, sounds like your wasting money, but hey, its yours!!

agree,  every 5K is plenty if not up to 8K on synthetic.  I do know though that one year I put on almost 5K per year vs. normal 3K tops if even that,  the later 1/2 of the oil after 4K seemed to not shift as smoothly/well though so sooner maybe better for that?  I also got stuck between 1st and 2nd gear into neutral a lot more as well later in the oil's life. 

I thought 10w-40 was preferred as one comment was using 10w-30?

[98valk]

I don't understand? Four oil changes in 6,500 miles. WHY? I use Mobil 1 and change my oil every 5k miles. Got the bike with 9k miles and now has 110k. No issues. To each his own, but I agree with the others, sounds like your wasting money, but hey, its yours!!

agree,  every 5K is plenty if not up to 8K on synthetic.  I do know though that one year I put on almost 5K per year vs. normal 3K tops if even that,  the later 1/2 of the oil after 4K seemed to not shift as smoothly/well though so sooner maybe better for that?  I also got stuck between 1st and 2nd gear into neutral a lot more as well later in the oil's life. 

I thought 10w-40 was preferred as one comment was using 10w-30?

[six2go #152]

I don't understand? Four oil changes in 6,500 miles. WHY? I use Mobil 1 and change my oil every 5k miles. Got the bike with 9k miles and now has 110k. No issues. To each his own, but I agree with the others, sounds like your wasting money, but hey, its yours!!

agree,  every 5K is plenty if not up to 8K on synthetic.  I do know though that one year I put on almost 5K per year vs. normal 3K tops if even that,  the later 1/2 of the oil after 4K seemed to not shift as smoothly/well though so sooner maybe better for that?  I also got stuck between 1st and 2nd gear into neutral a lot more as well later in the oil's life.  

I thought 10w-40 was preferred as one comment was using 10w-30?

The owner's manual for my F6B indicates that both are ok, with the 10w-30 getting the nod as the preferred choice.

[AdrianR]

I thought 10w-40 was preferred as one comment was using 10w-30?
[/quote]

10w/30 is what the manual calls for.  I have tried both..40 and 30W oils...  The bike runs better on the 30w. (shifts better, faster..etc.)

[dinosnake]

I'm using Shell Rotella T6 5W-40, as the 10W-x (10W-40 Honda's, synthetic and regular) give my bike notchy shifting when cold.  The 5W-40 makes cold shifting just as smooth as when hot.  If I can find another good oil / brand that I can actually get a hold of (my local dealer does not carry much), then I'm willing to try recommendations, as long as that cold shifting problem is addressed (read: if I can find a 10W-30/40 with good cold shifting and good quality, I'll try it).

[six2go #152]

I'm using Shell Rotella T6 5W-40, as the 10W-x (10W-40 Honda's, synthetic and regular) give my bike notchy shifting when cold.  The 5W-40 makes cold shifting just as smooth as when hot.  If I can find another good oil / brand that I can actually get a hold of (my local dealer does not carry much), then I'm willing to try recommendations, as long as that cold shifting problem is addressed (read: if I can find a 10W-30/40 with good cold shifting and good quality, I'll try it).

If you're happy with the Rotella T-6, stick with it. It's a great oil and is JASO certified for wet clutches. I used it for a short time in my '98 Valk, but I found that shifting was quite "notchy". Other than that, it was a good oil. So if your shifts are as you like, be happy. You can't beat the price.

[98valk]

I'm using Shell Rotella T6 5W-40, as the 10W-x (10W-40 Honda's, synthetic and regular) give my bike notchy shifting when cold.  The 5W-40 makes cold shifting just as smooth as when hot.  If I can find another good oil / brand that I can actually get a hold of (my local dealer does not carry much), then I'm willing to try recommendations, as long as that cold shifting problem is addressed (read: if I can find a 10W-30/40 with good cold shifting and good quality, I'll try it).

see my two oil analysis posts.  I really liked how the Amsoil 10w30/30 HD diesel oil shifted this is in GL1500 Valkyrie.  just a little pricey. I ran the oil out to 8k miles and did another analysis it came back still good for continued use. probably was good to 10-12k miles.
 Amsoil recommends up to 2 x OEM recommendations or 1 yr not to exceed 15k miles for diesel engines unless OA states otherwise. I used it over 2 yrs in a less stressful motorcycle engine and was still good for use.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,17708.0.html

here is another good discussion
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,48432.0.html

this is amsoil org oil which I used for yrs in bikes, was always listed for m/c.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/gasoline/premium-protection-10w-40-synthetic-motor-oil/?code=AMOQT-EA

Their sales took off big time by putting the same oil in a container that had a motorcycle on the front and changed some wording. it is now a little different formula with a little more rust inhibitors for bikes that sit for long periods. And I haven't checked in a few yrs but maybe a few additives % have change.
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/motorcycle/10w-40-synthetic-metric-motorcycle-oil/?code=MCFQT-EA

Disclosure: I was at one time an Amsoil dealer from early '80s to mid '90s, only for my use and friends. never did it as a business. So I used to get a lot of inside track info.
Enjoy.  

[dinosnake]

see my two oil analysis posts.  I really liked how the Amsoil 10w30/30 HD diesel oil shifted this is in GL1500 Valkyrie.  just a little pricey. I ran the oil out to 8k miles and did another analysis it came back still good for continued use. probably was good to 10-12k miles.

Thank you for all those great links!

And: "Pricey" is relative, I'm sure.

One of the main reasons (there are 3) that I'm using Shell Rotella is:

a) my local motorcycle dealer pretty much only has the 2 Honda oils (G and HP), not much else
b) the Honda HP4S gave me notchy shifting, and finally
c) HP4S at the dealer was $14.99 a quart.  4 quarts x $14.99 + $12 oil filter + tax...you do the math.  An $80 oil change for a bike  ???  4 changes a year, if done at 5K = $360 just in oil and filters.  And if I want to keep changing the oil at 3K...can anyone say, OUCH!

Even if I keep the Rotella T6 @ 3K intervals, that 6 changes a year @ $35/change = $210, again for the 3K frequency.  I'm just concerned about the cat, as I've just read that T6 can cause cat problems on certain models (I'm still researching, catalysts that meet a certain spec)

[98valk]

see my two oil analysis posts.  I really liked how the Amsoil 10w30/30 HD diesel oil shifted this is in GL1500 Valkyrie.  just a little pricey. I ran the oil out to 8k miles and did another analysis it came back still good for continued use. probably was good to 10-12k miles.

Thank you for all those great links!

And: "Pricey" is relative, I'm sure.

One of the main reasons (there are 3) that I'm using Shell Rotella is:

a) my local motorcycle dealer pretty much only has the 2 Honda oils (G and HP), not much else
b) the Honda HP4S gave me notchy shifting, and finally
c) HP4S at the dealer was $14.99 a quart.  4 quarts x $14.99 + $12 oil filter + tax...you do the math.  An $80 oil change for a bike  ???  4 changes a year, if done at 5K = $360 just in oil and filters.  And if I want to keep changing the oil at 3K...can anyone say, OUCH!

Even if I keep the Rotella T6 @ 3K intervals, that 6 changes a year @ $35/change = $210, again for the 3K frequency.  I'm just concerned about the cat, as I've just read that T6 can cause cat problems on certain models (I'm still researching, catalysts that meet a certain spec)

your welcome  
Rotella is a great oil. There were members posting yrs ago who were running it out to 10k miles, with a filter change at 5k miles. they had over 100k on the bikes no problems at all.
All I can suggest is to do one Used Oil Analysis (UOA) at 3k miles, see the report, and you most likely will never do 3k changes ever again. They are a waste of time, money and resources. Boxer engines have very, very low wear.
yep, cats don't like high phosphorus, all the new diesels have cats, so I believe the new specs have lower levels.  Rotella or other sites should specify this.
can see last yrs levels here. it shows 1250 PPM is max allowed. I am using Delo 10w30 right now.
http://www.pqiamerica.com/June%202014/consolidated%20HDEO%202015.html

this site also has a couple of advisories for Lucas products, one is their 15w40 diesel oil actually spec'd out at 10w40. there was a test yrs ago about how their gear oil would foam up, aerate real quick thereby not providing any protection, meaning they skimped on the anti-foaming additives.